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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

Sci-Fi Content

Showing topics in Science Fiction Discussion, RealSpace Discussion, Work In Progress - SF & RealSpace, Ready for Inspection - SF & RealSpace and Sci-fi & Real Space Reviews and articles posted in the last 365 days.

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  1. Past hour
  2. sprayed a bit of primer of these just to see if i have missed anything, just a few very small ruff spots to clean up but I very happy with it so far.
  3. Today
  4. image hosting above 5 mb
  5. Very quick update... So much for a nice quick build. I painted hundreds of tiny scratches and chips over the surface. I think next time I might try out one of the various chipping solutions available as this took hours. Another little thing i did was to mask off and paint the thin red markings at the rear of the fuselage. There are no decals for this with the kit and I think it adds interest so didn't want to leave it out. I've decided I'll have to scratch build the rear radiator as it's quite a prominent feature and another point of interest so I'll have a go at that tonight. I should have another update soon with a painted engine test and some more weathering on the body. I'm also still not completely happy with the blue and may re-do some of the markings. Cheers
  6. Cult TV Man has some news from Round 2 about some new kits due before end of 2017. First up is a 1/1000th scale snap kit of DS9's USS Defiant. Rather more interesting to me is a Space 1999 1/48th Nuclear Waste Area #2! Set will include Moon Buggy. 8 Lamp stands with bases and lighting kit, some of those hexagonal crates they had everywhere, Nuclear waste covers and 10 figures. Also thrown in is 1/24th Moon Buggy with figures. Also coming is an accessory set of nuclear waste canisters for the cargo Eagle and a fully built display Eagle. Probably won't be able to afford them but it's nice to dream! Paul Harrison
  7. Impressive. I too like the melted wax idea.
  8. Thanks guy's,i have 2 more dioramas to build in the near future.
  9. Thanks very much Andy! I will give it a try on some plastic spoons. Kev.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Melted wax as molten metal - genius!
  12. Thanks Kev, The hairspray technique isn't hard, but there are various factors that can affect the outcome, so it's a good idea to practice a few times before doing it on the final piece. In essence, the hairspray (HS) is acting as a soluble mask between the base coat and the top coat of paint. You paint the piece with the base colour that you want to show through, allow that to dry then add a couple of coats of HS. Once that's dry you add the final top coat of paint. When the top coat is touch dry, wet the surface with water, then start to rub the paint with a course brush. The water will be absorbed through the top layer of paint and start the dissolve the HS, which will then start to lift, bringing the top coat of paint with it. The amount of HS you add, the length of time you let it dry before adding the top coat of paint, and how thick that layer of paint is will all affect the outcome, so it's worth experimenting a bit. I usually spray the HS into a jar, then transfer it to my airbrush, rather than spraying it strait from the can. As an alternative to HS, you can get ready made chipping fluids that work in exactly the same way from various manufacturers. I'd recommend the AMMO one if you're looking to pick one up. There's a demo video of it here Andy
  13. Excellent!
  14. Cheers Mike, The Kenner one always reminded me of a puppy when I was a kid, mainly because of the oversized head Now if Bandai can make it to the same size... Andy
  15. Embrace the inner geek!
  16. That might actually be (subconsciously) why
  17. Thanks! These little guys are a great break from some of the bigger Star Wars kits I've been working on. The detail Bandai can get into these things still amazes me. I'm working on the Y-Wing now, and all the little pipe work on the main body is there. Still deciding how I am going to paint those...
  18. A teeny-tiny Snowspeeder and AT-ST from Bandai's wickle wange Oh, and another Rick & Morty tshirt
  19. Got my first ever sci-fi kit today. Bandai's 1/12 Star Wars Rogue One K-2SO droid.
  20. Superb, as usual Andy I've never noticed before, but something about the AT-AT reminds me of a daft puppy. Maybe it's the big clumpy feet that're too big for its body?
  21. Nice one, cheers! Will look into what the SF comes with and send you a PM later today. Thank you for all the advice and help.
  22. I bow before my modelling overlords and herewith accept all their modelling advice!!!
  23. This is an incredible build, and it has inspired me to buy my first sci-if kit (K-2SO of course!). Thanks very much Andy, I've really enjoyed reading this build, and also your AT-AT and AT-ST. Do you have any tips for your "hairspray" technique? As a car modeller, I haven't heard of that before. cheers, Kev.
  24. Hi Lee! Nailed it! Great diorama work,this is where the art in modelling is taken a step further! Keep Sticking! Cheers, Pete
  25. Master class of weathering Andy, simply stunning model and photos
  26. Last week
  27. Thanks, glad you like it, Regarding the weathering, the mid section was weathered with enamel washes. I generally use thicker washes (AMMO engine grime is a favourite) as shading around panels and details. I'll paint the wash around the detail areas, then blend away the edge with a soft brush. The mud on the feet was done by applying a slurry of earth coloured pigment mixed with white spirit. You need to be a little careful with the white spirit though, as this is where I had problems with the plastic cracking. As an alternative, you can dilute the pigment with enamel thinner or pigment fixer, both of which should be a little more gentle on the plastic. Another option for mud is to brush some acrylic resin (Vallejo make this, as do other companies), then stipple dry pigment onto it. Once it's dry it leaves a very realistic crusty earth look. Andy
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