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dnl42

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dnl42 last won the day on November 28 2020

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    The OC...south of La-La Land.

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  1. This is coming along quite nicely! As @shortCummins wrote. Silly putty or AK Interactive Camouflage Elastic Putty also work. The thickness of the sausage determines the softness of the edge. Hold the airbrush at right angles to the surface and don't overspray lest the edges become too hard.
  2. I posted this in my Hellcat GB thread, but thought it might get more attention here. What are your thoughts on the cowling interior, light gray, interior green, or ZCY? https://www.asisbiz.com/il2/Hellcat/VBF87/pages/Grumman-F6F-5-Hellcat-VBF-87-White-76-named-10,000th-Hellcat-CV-14-USS-Ticonderoga-June-1945-03.html This is BuNo 78854 Also, the above photo clearly shows a dark propeller hub, while all the others (hit Previous and Next) show a white hub?
  3. Thanks @Roberto! I even managed to get it into the fuselage with all the small bits attached! I need some advice. First, what are your thoughts on the cowling interior, light gray, interior green, or ZCY? https://www.asisbiz.com/il2/Hellcat/VBF87/pages/Grumman-F6F-5-Hellcat-VBF-87-White-76-named-10,000th-Hellcat-CV-14-USS-Ticonderoga-June-1945-03.html Second, the above photo clearly shows a dark propeller hub, while all the others (hit Previous and Next) show a white hub?
  4. I'm mortified about the thought of tape near a decal, so I rely on looking at various angles. Looking directly at the decals shows spacing. Looking along the length at an oblique angle shows vertical alignment.
  5. This is looking fabulous! That seat is quite nice! You did a fine job on fixing the tail wheel.
  6. The cowling. Quite a bit of careful hand clamping was needed to get the sides aligned with the front. FWIW, here's the difference between the Eduard and D-Mold cowlings; the D-Mold is intended for the Hasegawa Thanks for looking...
  7. dnl42

    Hi!

    Welcome aboard!
  8. Thanks @shortCummins and @Grey Beema! The Archer resin decals work very well in general. This standing seam should be a little sharper and stand a little prouder, but I think it will do. Eduard's supports may well be replaced. I did so on their 1/48 Lysander III SD. The Albion version looked much better and was mechanically secure.
  9. Nice collection! @Meatbox8 is right, more pix please! With 100 Malta Spitfires so far, is it your aim to build all of them?
  10. That looks very nicely done. Certainly head and shoulders above my efforts.
  11. The belly tank is done. The forward braces were a surprisingly sloppy fit; I needed to add a 10 mil shim. More problematic though was the missing equatorial seam. I've applied Archer Finer Transfers Resin Panel Lines decals. They're intended to repair raised panel line details. We'll see how it looks under paint. We'll also see how long those forward braces last--Albion tubing replacements may well be in the offing.
  12. That look marvelous! Perhaps you could a include a vignette with some poor fool and a few helpful onlookers trying to break into the fool's hired car because he locked the car with the keys sitting on the front seat. Such an event may or may not happened on the Gourock - Kilcreggan Ferry in the early '80s. I hear that it wasn't actually that hard to break into a Dolomite of the time. Just sayin...
  13. Thanks @shortCummins, @Cookenbacher, @Thom216, and @Alan P! I did try to get the levers posed as shown in the Pilot's Manual. BTW, I found that the best way to attache the port-side console levers. one aft and one forward, was to drill #80 holes into the plastic at the appropriate angles. I also had the canopy slide lock lever (PE45) in the correct position (forward on the dial, not down as shown in Eduard's instructions), but it decided to wander off at some point.
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