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About dnl42

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    Obsessed Member

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    The OC...south of La-La Land.

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  1. I've built 3 of their outstanding 1/144 C-47 kits. The 2-color decals in one were out of register. They did go on fine and settle nicely with MSI solutions.
  2. Sure. Many subjects come to mind...
  3. Nice rear bench! As you wrote, no contemporaneous photos and only text descriptions. I made something similar, but I completely spaced out about some belts for those passengers!
  4. dnl42

    Soft edge masking tape?

    A typical technique available in the US uses Silly Putty. It can be rolled into "worms" or "ropes", which can then be laid along the boundaries or even into sheets of the appropriate shapes. The thickness of the putty determines the edge width. One easy approach is to cut plain paper masks, slightly undersize, and lay the worms along the edges. I'll do that for well-defined camo patterns. I also use hand-formed sheets for less-defined patterns. Spray straight down when you do this to get the best soft-edge. It's very easy to do with an airbrush. What worries me is your rattle can. They blast paint on at horrific volumes. Would need quite a deft touch. Search for "silly putty camouflage" for a variety of references. HTH -- dnl
  5. Oh ya! Possibilities include 1/48 Grumman cats and birds, Mosquito, Mustang, Midget Mustang, PZL.23 Karaś (carp), PZL.37 Łoś (moose), and 1/72 USS Alligator (US Civil War submarine).
  6. I've had wonderful results putting Mr Color C46 over all paint types, including enamels and water-soluble acrylics such as The Army Painter Warpaints and Vallejo. I always apply light coats of well-thinned (like 1% milk or thinner) paint. Mist coats first to build coverage. Always wet when they hit the surface. I apply a final "wet" gloss coat after building coverage. These are usually within one painting session because of Mr Color's and Alclad's fast drying times. I'm a huge fan of the Mr Color range, and I've learned I don't need a clear coat prior to decals atop their gloss and semi-gloss paints. I apply decals directly on those paints (also with Alclad). I assume Gunze's Aqueous line are similarly wonderful paint, so they may also not always need a gloss coat. Having written that, Gunze offers two types of clears for their Aqueous line: Aqueous Hobby Color Premium Clear Gloss H101, Semi-Gloss H102, and Flat H103, (all bottle) and Mr Premium Topcoat Gloss, Semi-Gloss, and Flat (all rattle can). BTW, I use Mr Color Gloss Clear C46 for gloss coats, but Microscale Industries Micro Satin and Micro Flat for semi-gloss and flat clears, respectively. Finally, I've never had luck airbrushing Future. Not sure why as many have written of their wonderful results. If you are going to airbrush Future, test it out first before committing it to your model. HTH -- dnl
  7. I like that! IPMSOC had good participation with a "green" contest theme last year--anything green. This year, will have three such events: black (predominantly black), high-viz (high visibility colorful or predominately white and bright paint, no greens or greys), and low-viz (primarily grey or green, no hi visibility colorful white etc.).
  8. Hm, link broken... Love to to LSM's shop open again.
  9. Nice! I built one of those, and it is a nice kit!
  10. Nice! Your weathering skills are so much better than mine! Quite frankly, I've given up on weathering...
  11. Mr Surfacer 1200, thinned and applied the same as you would other Mr Color paints, is indeed a wonderful primer. Truly wonderful stuff!!
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