Jump to content

dnl42

Gold Member
  • Posts

    3,049
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

dnl42 last won the day on November 28 2020

dnl42 had the most liked content!

3 Followers

About dnl42

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The OC...south of La-La Land.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

dnl42's Achievements

Very Obsessed Member

Very Obsessed Member (5/9)

4.1k

Reputation

  1. @Bertie Psmith provides some excellent advice. Camo was a critical part of the question. I always use some sort of masking for these tasks. Tamiya tape works perfectly. Lay rolls of Silly Putty or Blu Tack atop the tape for soft edges. Once the pattern is right, rotate the barrel on the "spit" mentioned. This keeps a constant distance and angle between the part and the airbrush nozzle. Also as mentioned, airbrushing should be at a relatively short distance, 5mm to 45mm. For this task, closer is better...
  2. Nice work and a wonderful scheme! I especially appreciate this build as I have their family model--way too many options resulting in some very sketchy parts fit.
  3. i spray long strokes along the axis of the part. Rotate after each stroke. Also, don't try to get full coverage in one pass. Build coverage over several passes. This is always true, regardless of the part. HTH -- dnl
  4. Your description seems to focus on the life of a single subject. What about the early and late variants? Spitfire Mk.I v. Mk.24, M4 v. M4A4, DC-3 v. C-47 v. BT-67. It's particularly appropriate for airliners and automotive vehicles.
  5. Excellent start! I'm looking forward to this.
  6. BTW, check out the strut mounting holes in the wing. The original Gavia and Eduard boxings have them in the wrong location--too far forward. Unfortunately, I found out too late and now have wonky wings. The latest version of the kit apparently fixes this problem so the wings mount properly. Also if you want the slats and flaps delployed, e.g., using the CMK slat/flap resin, you also need to add slats to the inner wing segments. It's not hard to do. I replaced all the slats with thin Al sheet. The exhaust, spinner, and under-cowling air inlet shapes vary depending on various factors. Look for photos of your subject. Finally, the kit appears to locate the wheels within the spats in the unloaded position. I raised them per plans I and I'm happier with the appearance v. photos.
  7. Here are contemporaneous photos of the fuselage. Not sure of value to your color question. https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/group-of-womens-auxillary-air-force-flight-riggers-and-news-photo/781784763 https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/no-22-group-royal-air-force-june-november-1940-groundcrew-news-photo/154417720 HTH -- dnl
  8. There are no contemporaneous photos of the SOE aft cockpit that I'm aware of. From contemporaneous written descriptions, it wasn't much like the armed versions. I have a photo or two showing the after armed fuselage--I'll try to find them.
  9. Nice work on those very high aspect ratio wings! Were the uh, extra, parts of the jig there for the photo or your general amusement? I may or may not fly my aircraft to/from airbrushing sessions in the garage...
  10. Excellent! Brings back memories from a long time ago
  11. Nice work on this! This will be fun to watch. I'm particularly interested in your wing ribs. I've been trying to replace some wonky resin wings on a Gulfhawk and my various attempts at ribs all failed. Your method looks quite promising.
  12. This is looking fabulous! You are most certainly conquering the sketchy fit. These have long been one of my favorite modern general aviation aircraft.
  13. Your conversion from memory is looking very promising. Particularly with the evidence of copious amounts of filler.
  14. dnl42

    Flybe Q400

    That is just gorgeous! I love the scheme.
×
×
  • Create New...