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Gimme Shelter

Gold Member
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Gimme Shelter last won the day on March 20 2014

Gimme Shelter had the most liked content!

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About Gimme Shelter

  • Rank
    Gimme Shelter
  • Birthday 03/10/1967

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    www.gibvault.com
  • Skype
    johnrleah67

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wokingham, Berkshire, Great Britain
  • Interests
    modelling planes or sci-fi

Recent Profile Visitors

3,109 profile views
  1. What an amazing walk through of yet another fantastic 1/100 Victory build. Sadly, I also find it too scary for me so I think I'm going to sell off my unbuilt Heller kit along with all the extras I've bought for it as this kit is really far too much for my limited maritime modelling talents. This really is a smashing model - tip top, and England Expects Every Victory Modeller to Do His Duty
  2. Hi So with the help of a lot of very knowledgeable Titanic specialists, I have managed some good progress of this kit - thanks mainly to the facebook group builds I must add. The below pictures have been best uploaded in date order. Working with the addition of the Pontos set, I have found that the kit's instructions are best not followed and have therefore added a wide breadth of pictures for you below in case it helps anyone else, particularly around the assembly of the superstructure from the gym, boat deck and down to C deck level and promenade areas etc. The figures now seen below are the TORI Factory 3D printed Titanic sets available from KA Models of Korea. Expensive but worth while at 1/200 size for areas of the ship where you want to display accurate passengers, and of course; Rose and Jack! An extra layer of LED's added between the Hull lighting and where the kit's supplied lighting starts off. Overpainted warm white LED's with Tamiya clear yellow to give it that Victorian feel Basic agricultural figures out on the promenade enclosed levels Photoetch bench production line Assembling the promenade sides not the way trumpeter suggest so as to ensure figures and lighting can be added successfully TORI Factory figures some more of the railings now added etc correcting the waterline (again) Test fit of the funnels Never let go Jack Captain E Smith and his officers
  3. This model looks very nice and I absolutely respect the amount of time and detail you are adding to your build. I have this kit and call it my retirement kit as an excuse not to try and start it and bodge it. I spent around £300 on etch, wooden decking, resin parts etc. and its just sitting in the box on the shelf of retirement models. I will enjoy following your build here onwards having myself just started my first proper ship kit of the 1/200 Trumpeter Titanic. Good luck with your Victory, at least she has a happier story to tell than the model of the ship I'm building...
  4. Thank you very much for your tips here Jerry. I shall follow your advice here. I have also found 4 very specific facebook groups dedicated to this kit and it is nice to see how others are tackling the pontos funnel wrap stages as I am about to start that stage and can see problems on the horizon
  5. You may very well be right - I've just bought myself the Trumpeter 1/48 U Boat and Big Ed set. As much as I am looking forward to starting the U552, I am going to stay loyal to the Titan and complete her before starting the Sea Wolfe
  6. I am not a ship builder and have no previous experience of photo etch or wooden deckings so this is a new challenge for me. Nor am I a Titanic expert so please enjoy my build on the basis that this is strictly just a model and not guaranteed to be a 100% accurate reproduction of the titan herself. I've used a few books for reference where needed but have come to the conclusion that the limited pictures of the Titanic itself (as opposed to her sister ships) don't really help the modeller to accurately paint her based on black and white photos and film stills, James Cameron seems to have produced good data to work from but that has left me asking myself if he too improvised. The Pontos set was a bit of a shock for me but I have literally taken it in small stages and have not worried about setting any deadlines. I have however focused purely on this build and have down tooled on all other builds as I need to stay focused on the Pontos detailing and not get myself distracted. The photo etch railings are something I have no previous skill at modelling but it seems to be going together OK so far. I did drill out all the hull portholes and added some 3D printed bulkhead and hull straighteners. The bulkheads in one of the photos below did not end up getting used as I need open frames to allow for the interior hull lighting to be added. I've had to go back and fill and paint the davits as I drilled them out mistaking them for portholes. I used some of the kits packaging to wrap the additional 5v LED hull lighting onto, and will add another level of LED lights for C/D deck. The kits funnel lights are not being included as they are bulky and do not do the model any credit. The Port side will be at waterline, while the starboard shall be on full display. With such an amount of superb brass pieces, I've also chosen to not over paint the capstans and leave them looking nice and shiny. The same applies to some of the doors, hatches, vent covers, steps; I just felt it would be very white and loose some of the finite detail that the Pontos set provides, so some silver has been used just to break up the deck and super structure colour work. Based on the sheer amount of hard work this kit generates, I'd prefer the Titanic fanatics to just enjoy my attempt here rather than criticise, however any help and guidance will be thoroughly appreciated thank you. Here we go. Firstly, Nigel's superb porthole drilling guides which cover 4 different sized portholes If you choose to use Trumpeters recommended Cocoa Brown, don't because it is too brown. I added a 50% bright red mix and got it right the second time unlike the below first attempt. Now the hull with the colour corrected using the 50/50 cocoa and bright red mix Below shows the 3d printed hollow hull strengtheners and the kit packaging I added to attach the hull LED lighting onto Having tested the LED's I over painted them using Tamiya clear Orange as the kit's LEDs are a nice Victorian yellow type light The lower davits were later filled and overpainted, but here is the hull with it's interior lighting. The Portside hull has not been completely painted as it will be displayed at waterline. Early work on the Stern I felt it to be a shame to leave out the Pontos sets interior detail for the lifeboats so my model will show the Portside boats with their covers on, and the starboard side without covers My son who has an appetite for war gaming figure painting has kindly offered to paint this bag of 200 x 1/200 figures - he hasn't seen how small they are yet !!! Yep, I know, I've still got to drill out the forward front end aperture below Shapeways bench folding jig initial first attempt to use them, I need to use a vice next time and tape the etch into the jog before the fold process And that's it for the moment. I hope you have enjoyed the challenge I have on the workbench this month. I think I've been at work on this for about 4-5 weeks now (Furlough is brilliant) John
  7. I am also building this with the Pontos box of tricks. Take my advice, book an appt with your GP for about 6 months time for a repeat prescription of anti-depressants to get you through to the last page of the Pontos detailing!
  8. I'm also building this kit along with the Pontos box of nervous breakdown doom. Good luck with your build, I guess I should also raise a WIP of my build and suffer the criticisms that are sure to follow from all the Titanic fans out there who will point out my errors in colour choices used
  9. absolutely smashing work there. Top marks going into so much finite detail in 1/400 scale there. Im building the 1/200 Trumpeter Titanic and are already borderline nervous breakdown from the challenge. Don't get too hung up on colours as there really is very little accurate information about the shades etc used - trust me, I've done my research and chosen to make my own choices based on all the books and archive information available -
  10. Paint it, detail it, dry assemble it and then add the lights and test fit again.
  11. Absolutely fantastic build - I hope my 1/200 kit of the same looks as beautiful as yours - truly well done
  12. I'm building this with the Pontos set - its a total labyrinth. I am well into the paint work stages now having spent 18 hours drilling out every porthole with the use of a pair of metal jigs that use a 1mm centre hole to work up from. The jigs were invaluable but it does mean you end up drilling a great number of holes twice over and the clean up of the holes is delicate. I'm adding additional lighting to my hull and doing away with the funnel lights which look a bit naff to me. Mines going to reflect a waterline display at sea on the port side and full hull display on the starboard
  13. Nice to see another Titanic being built. I am building the new Trumpeter 1/200 monster which took me 18 hours of porthole drilling out time with the use of a pair of drill jigs which start at 1mm and go up to 4mm in diameter. I've also got the Pontos detailing set which is a beast of detail but worth the extra money. I was tempted to display mine nose down taking on water but decided to do a waterline crossing display instead. In total I've had to buy 22 pots of Mr Hobby paints to cover the Hull and main superstructure making my project well and truly a titanic challenge. Good luck with your build
  14. It looks smashing Andrew - and I prefer the 'with' wheel hub options myself. That mesh you have used has certainly added a special touch of fine detail. I'm looking forward to seeing the beast in the resin once we can next meet up at club night and shows.
  15. Thank you Mrs P - I remember your model of the same very well and was an inspiration to start this off about 4 years ago or so Many thanks TT cheers Paul - I may need you to help me lug this in and out of shows next year !
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