Jump to content


Gold Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,037 Excellent

1 Follower

About Werdna

  • Rank
    Established Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    1/48 WW2 axis + track cycling

Recent Profile Visitors

585 profile views
  1. Slow going, but a bit more progress. Panel line wash done, cockpit 'greenhouse' now refinished after much overspray from previous painting efforts and loosely fitted for the pic. Matt coat also done, as well as some touch up to some of the decals. EZ6 antenna/glass now fitted. I left it until now to fit the landing light in the port wing, but the fit is terrible, so it will need some filler and some minor repainting to blend it in. I should have done this before the primer/paint stage, but we live and learn. Then I'll start on the weathering. I mistakenly thought I was close to finishin
  2. Nothing insurmountable - but I'm learning that absolutely everything needs to be dry-fitted first. I started my build about a month ago and I'm still probably another week at least away from having something for RFI..
  3. Great job. Definitely not an easy kit to build, as I'm currently finding out..
  4. So I did go over the mottle once more, and I'm happy with the contrast now. Clear coat on and decals now done. The upper wing crosses didn't survive the water, for some reason and I didn't fancy using the kit decals. Fortunately, I managed to dig out some paint masks which were an identical size, so I painted them on instead, using RLM66 which matches near enough the 'grey' colour of the nightfighter decals already on there. Another clear coat next, followed by a panel line wash and weathering...
  5. Hi all Apologies if this has been posted before, but I did a quick search and couldn't see anything obvious. A lot of fascinating pictures here documenting captured German military equipment on display in Moscow during and after the war. Including (about 3/4 down the first page) an image of what appears to be possibly a Fw190D-11 or D-13. Whether this particular a/c had been previously documented, I'm not sure. The whole thread is well worth a look for the pics alone. https://smolbattle.ru/threads/Выставки-трофейной-техники.61701/?fbclid=IwAR2AdKZkUEsYg
  6. Werdna

    Fw 190D-15 colours

    I'd go for a scheme similar (if not identical) to that applied to the Ta152H - ie green 81 & 82 over 76.
  7. I think you may be right. I'll sleep on it though, and have another look in the morning. It's also possible that weathering, panel line washes and various other effects might reduce the contrast further in any case. We'll see... I'm calling it 'mottling' mainly because I don't know what else to call it
  8. Well, the paintwork is done, but it in the end it wasn't done in the way I expected. Straight RLM76 out of the bottle (Vallejo) just looked too 'blue' whereas all other examples of this aircraft seem to be significantly lighter in tone. I ended up adding around 30% white to the RLM76, which then looked like a nicer shade, to me at least. I had planned to lay down the RLM75 first and then freehand the RLM76 over the top in order to give the desired effect. But in practice, it just wasn't working. Test after test on the paint mule just didn't give me the results I wanted, so I sta
  9. I'm not sure if they would be 'official' recognition aids, as such - more likely just models that someone has made at the time. They are a real find though..
  10. Hi Jan That's strange - I can't get the Hataka to work without significant thinning. I would usually thin paint for airbrush use anyway (regardless of what the bottle might say), but Hataka always needs considerably more thinner than my 'regular' Vallejo model air paints. This is usually for a 0.4 Sparmax. I also have a 0.2 H&S, but I haven't even bothered trying to run them through that
  11. I now have a preference for Hataka for VVS colours - as far as I can tell they are the best match for that particular 'genre'. However, I've seen some Hataka representations of late war RLM colours and they look to be every bit as inaccurate as Mig's. The other thing to say about Hataka - I use the 'red line', which is supposedly optimised for airbrush use. It isn't. Red line is so thick I doubt if it would even go through a garden hose (that's a massive over-statement, but you get the point).
  12. Thanks Jack 'Reverse' mottle is supposedly how this particular scheme was applied at the time. In other words, rather than spraying spots of RLM75 over the top of RLM76, the upper surfaces were painted RLM75 first and then the RLM76 was 'spidered' over the top - ie the reverse of the usual way of mottling. Easier to explain it than it is to apply it, sadly..
  13. Canopy masked (not as tedious as I thought it might be) and temporarily attached. Primer and pre-shading in dark grey/light grey done. RLM 76 will probably go on next, followed by the RLM 75 upper surfaces. Then I need to work up the courage to apply the reverse mottle, which I'm still practising - and seem to be getting worse at...
  • Create New...