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About gamevender

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  1. Check this out for the real thing. https://www.history.com/shows/counting-cars/season-1/episode-7
  2. No. Had not seen these. They answer perfectly. Thanks.
  3. It doesn't look dark but with those old photos, red can look black and blue disappears and green looks like silver, or whatever depending on the film type used. Whatever it is, if it is aluminum, it doesn't look like it has the "sheen" of bare natural metal, so it was probably at least painted something.
  4. I thought it odd as well. They call for an all silver exterior, which would make a 'tan' interior particularly strange.
  5. I'm woking on the Valom Bristol Bombay and the kit instructions call for the interior to be painted "Stredni Barva Kamene", which if my Czech is any good, which it isn't, means literally "medium color stones". They translate it as "Pale Stone", but the color chip they give is a dark tan. Anyone have any idea what color the inside of these aircraft were painted?
  6. I'm working on the MicroMir kit of this beast and they give you a photo etch piece for what appear to be some sort of rails that are attached to the outside of the clam shell doors. The instructions are very vague on how they are position or how to bend the parts. From what I've seen on the internet, I think they have some function when the a/c carried airborne troops for dropping as I don't see them when it is configured for other purposes. Does anyone have any clear photos of how these rails are shaped and/or attached as the ones I can find are from too far off or are very fuzzy.
  7. Or you can not worry about getting the right shade of "green" or whatever and do something completely different.
  8. AndyG, Thanks for the link, but I have a feeling the postage would cost more than the decals. I'll see if I can find any at Telford in a month.
  9. Orso, actually no, at least not the ones in the kit. I measured them and the arms are rectangles while the center is a square.
  10. I've hit a snag. I'm to the point where I need to apply the decals, but the ones I have are very old and yellowed. I tried making my own, but they just weren't up to snuff. In the States, you can't find 1/76-2 scale markings for vehicles very readily and those you can find are mostly German stuff. I'm going to SMW this year and expect I may be able to find an appropriate set there, so this project will be on hiatus for a while until I can track those down.
  11. The old Airfix Sunderland is covered in rivets but the Italeri one has trenches for panel lines. It would seem to be easier to sand off the rivets than fill the panel lines and use the Airfix hull/wings/tail with the rest of the Italeri parts. Anyone have any thoughts about or experience with this idea? Will it even work?
  12. The kit rear doors are very over scale, almost looking more like armour plate, so I made new ones from thin sheet stock. The vents were made with PE 1/400 railings with two small sections cut and laid over one another to appear as a slotted vent. This is the interior of one door and the exterior of the other. As the doors will be posed open, the exterior will not be visible, so I didn't fancy it up at all. The kit does not supply the folding steps at the rear of the vehicle, so I made some out of cut up old PE fret, sheet plastic and stretched sprue. The dime is there for size perspective.
  13. This is an ancient kit that has be re-released many times It's not bad given it's age, but fit is iffy in some spots and detail is a little heavy handed. Anyway, here goes I started with basic assembly to a point where I needed to start making changes/adding detail Stretchers went in on rails, so I added these from Evergreen channel stock. The jump seat was rather crudely done, so I made one from sheet stock. The vents had sliding doors to open and close them, so those were added as was some sort of access plate on the floor and a small panel to the left of the door. I added the interior rib detail as well. The roof had an interior and framework added along with 4 lights, two vents and two boxes, the function of which I have no idea. I also opened up the window to the cab area and made the 'glass' from clear styrene. Then some framing around the ends of the lower stretcher racks and the cranks to raise or lower the stretcher beds and the interior was done. This is what it looks like after paint and a wash. I have to say, that my camera picks up things my eyes never would. Please forgive any oversights. I next moved to the cab interior. Additions here are the hatchet on the door between the cab and rear compartment, the fire extinguisher, foot pedals, a bundle of "stuff" on the step to the rear, a new seat cover and side wall head pads for the co-driver/assistant, the corresponding small panel next to the door from the rear, a small wedge to hold the spare tire (or tyre if you prefer) and I made clear plastic inserts for the glass to be put in place after painting. Now I can add the roof and get busy on the exterior.
  14. Not many kits of this vehicle around, so I jumped on this when I found it. One tricky part was the car itself is done in two halves, front and back, making for a long seam all the way around the middle of the car. It filled in pretty well, but took some doing to make it "go away" as is always the case with seams on flat surfaces. Also, if you put the provided spring parts on the locators called out, the body winds up say to high. Removing the locators brings everything into alignment, Juast noticed that I forgot to paint the search light lens Oh well. Back to the work bench. Looks nice when done and fills a niche in my modern British vehicles collection.
  15. I'm sure there are all sorts of ways, but here are two. One, use Tamiya masking tape, It has an elastic quality that allows you to bend and stretch it if you cut it into very thin strips or you can buy it already cut. Anchor one end on a convenient spot and holding that in place, slightly pull the tape to stretch it and gradually lay it down where you want it. Move slowly and keep moving your "anchor finger" to hold it in place as you move it along. When you have gone all the way, then fill in the part to be masked with tape/paper/making fluid. Another way, IF you have engraved lines, is to lay some thin tape right over the line covering both sides. Then press it down so that you can see the indent of the line. Take a new exacto blade and trace that line around, cutting through the tape. Remove the tape from the area to be painted and fill in the side that's to be masked. In either case, before you paint, make sure the tape is all the way down all the way round to ensure no leakage.
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