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Showing topics posted in for the last 14 days.

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  1. Past hour
  2. Think the rear part of it is fuel and the front part is baggage pod.
  3. Emu

    Fore here, forever

    I don’t like Mondays
  4. Funny, I'd consider this a labour-saving feature (unless you absolutely, positively must de-religionize the word/season) - type four letters, get eight. There are always alternatives like Yule or Saturnalia if you really don't like religion. We'll see what the word filter does to those when I post this... EDIT: Looks unblemished so far!
  5. Hi all, Thanks Patrice @TEMPESTMK5 for hosting yet another great GB, this time featuring the wonderful aircraft that is the Mustang. There are several of these Revell kits on the go already and I'll be chipping in every now and then due to other modelling commitments and the freezing cold weather in my outdoor shed. My choice of build is yet to be decided - I have a LIfelike Decals sheet with four colourful examples on it: I was leaning towards the fourth one till I found out it's the main decal option for the Tamiya Pacific Theater version of their famously expensive 1/32 kit. So now I'm looking at either 1 or 3 because I prefer to build something slightly different to everyone else. (It's a personality disorder, I also change my restaurant order if somebody else orders the same dish as me!) I've got a bunch of resin parts that I picked up from an Ebay seller - it includes the dorsal fillet tail section, new cowling and resin replacement dropped flaps, horizontal stabilizer/elevators and rudder. Very cheap for what you get and pretty good castings, please PM me if you'd like some details. Anyway, pictures will follow as time allows - in the meantime, looking forward to joining in! Alan
  6. Can't be an A109 as there isn't a nose wheel. Unless it's some sort of prototype? Adam
  7. Great, where can I buy it? Don’t see it listed for sale at the usual places.
  8. Today
  9. Does anyone know where I can source kitbash parts for the Falcon? I'm not looking to make a studio accurate replica so I'm not too fussy, but I'd rather try and find a job lot of parts rather than spending money on individual kits.
  10. I should have 4 Mustangs in the stash, if I can find any of them I'll join in
  11. Thanks Bill and Cookie Guess what? The 'free hand' was a mistake. I'm too embarrassed to show pictures until I've sorted it out. Thanks Ben Soon Giorgio, soon Welcome Simon
  12. Yesterday
  13. stever219


    Some UK sellers may not be registered for VAT so it can’t be deducted from what they charge you (we presently have the highest turnover threshold for VAT registration in the UK; in some member states the moment you start to trade you must register). Others may not be aware of the “zero rate for exports” rule and yet others may charge the tax for fear of not having adequate proof of removal of the goods, which means that IF they ever get a VAT Officer banging on their door to check their records not only would they have to account for the tax but they could also be clobbered with a hefty penalty. I haven’t checked lately but HMRC Notices 703 (Exports) and 725 (European Community) cover this in some insomnia-pulverising detail if you are feeling desperately curious or in need of sleep.
  14. For best results. La-250 have AL-7F some as on Su-7/9/11 family & Tu-128. In 72nd scale have AL-7F from Amigo Models http://www.amigomodels.ru/product/al7-72017/ Also was cockpit on La-250 from Balkans manufacturing (don't remember name) but his extremely rare. B.R. Serge
  15. Late but did half my Christmas shopping today via amazon, and took advantage to add a Vallejo paint I’ll need for the mustang STGB and a couple of others I’m curious of the shade as they are addon items
  16. If you want really clear "glass" windows try using wimmen's nail varnish. The stuff I used on the "Jura" created lovley windows but be careful, the stuff melts Acrylic paint which can run into the varnish! Funnily enough, it makes a horrible varnish...
  17. When I built the re-popped Airfix version a wee while ago I gloss coated and used decal solution and the decals went down a treat. I was well chuffed !
  18. Nice, did this one for the last STGB though I painted mine using incorrect RAF colours instead of the ANA the original wore
  19. Well the wheel doors are on and the touching up is about finished so I am ready to start putting decals on, followed by whatever I am going to hang under the wings. The Scimitar could carry 500lb, 1000lb or even 2000lb bombs, AIM-9B Sidewinders, Bullpups, a Nuke or unguided rockets as well as 2 different sizes of drop tanks and a buddy refuelling tank. I have painted up a pair of tanks for the inboard pylons and also a pair of inert 1000lb practice bombs taken from a Jaguar kit (the blue should probably be lighter/brighter) but I am still not decided exactly what to put on the outboard pylons as I also have Bullpups and Sidewinders available besides the bombs. I don't know about you but having to decide what to hang under the wings can be a bit frustrating, particularly on modern jets. I have a pile of stuff I could use, both from kits and in numerous boxes of weapons from Airfix, Italeri, Trumpeter and of course Hasegawa, so when I saw an article in a modelling mag a few years ago where the builder used small but very powerful Neodymium magnets to fix his bombs etc, it was of considerable interest. These magnets come in various shapes and sizes with the most common circular ones from around 1mm diameter upwards and can be embedded in the wing, the pylon, or the weapon itself, allowing you to swap complete loaded pylons or just change the load – they also might offer a simpler alternative to fiddling about fitting pivots to the pylons on swing-wing aircraft - Tornado, F111 etc. The article was actually about a 1/48 scale build where fitting the magnets was easy, but I have experimented on an old 1/72 Blenheim kit and have managed to fit drop tanks and bombs using 4mm magnets fitted in holes drilled in the wings,and smaller 2mm magnets in the pylons etc and you can paint over them so they are just about invisible – the problem is getting them into the pylons or weapons and also remembering to get the “polarity right” so they “attract” not “repel” each other. I am hoping to use them on my “What If” TSR2 build shortly as I have a range of stores lined up including the “correct” high speed streamlined drop tanks and pylons, and the later option of Tornado F3 pylons with “Hindenburg” tanks and Sidewinder rails, not to mention various countermeasure pods and laser rangers and targeting pods. I would be interested to hear if anybody has tried using magnets this way on their kits, and how they got on. With luck I should get some decals on tomorrow - at least one of the reviews says the kit decs are a bit transparent so I will be putting on circles of white decal paper first for the fuselage and upper wing roundels. Pete
  20. Hi mates, The Devastator after a primer coat (Mr. Surfacer 1000) The floats .. And at last ... the superb Pratt & Whitney R-1830 Twin Wasp ...
  21. Thank you gentlemen. These kits sure are fun and you can really bash and customise them to your hearts content. I have quite a few of these little guys in my cupboard for those times when you get a bit bogged down in a complex build. A couple of weekends with a carefree kit can make a world of difference. The base was a fun experiment too.
  22. I think you're on the right track. I don't know the solution for this but I wonder if there's any mileage in cutting the the decal first and then sealing, so the edges get a dose too? That might interfere with the transfer separating from the backing. If you are in the mood for experiments it could be worth a try. But first up I think this next should sort it. My experience was with laser printing on clear, done in a copy shop, and I was pleased to find that they are waterproof straight off the sheet, but that's a different ballgame The fighting cocks look great!
  23. This is the new 1/72 scale Eagle kit from Round 2/MPC. A brilliant molding it is essentially a scaled down version of their earlier 1/48 22" kit. Very precise fit to the point a coat of paint can make it very hard to separate the parts when test fitting. The spine is now two parts, top and bottom and fits really well. the Engine section is a fairly complicated assembly mainly due to the many connection points to line up. Model painted with Dupli-color Diamond White and Tamiya spray cans.
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