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Navy Bird

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Navy Bird last won the day on March 2

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About Navy Bird

  • Birthday 03/29/1955

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    Male
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    Rochester, NY USA
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    Nuking Lymphoma

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  1. I forgot to respond to this - your idea is what I actually had in mind. I've learned from trying to hand paint arresting hook and/or missile stripes that I'm a real lousy hand painter. I may get lucky, however, as the more I look at this colour photo of the plane I'm building, the more the fuel dumps look to be grey or white. I have some other photos where they look grey or white as well. More research! Cheers, Bill
  2. Thanks! I don't build 1:48, but I think Hobby Boss and AZ (ex-Grand Phoenix) make injection moulded Demons. Well, this is 1:72 scale young man. Let's not get carried away. I'll take that as a compliment. Let's see what it all looks like when the gear doors are on and everything is hidden. Cheers, Bill
  3. The Emhar kit of the Demon has quite a few braces/linkages, etc. missing from the landing gear. I added the most obvious bits with styrene rod, hoping that the gear covers will hide my laziness. The nose gear has two rods called "shrink links" that are quite obvious. They extend from the torque links up to the corners of the nose gear well. The Airwaves PE set includes these, but being PE they're flat. I prefer rods so I didn't use the PE. Now, the starboard shrink link has an interesting bend as you can see here: I assume this is for clearance of something when the nose gear is retracted. I managed to put a curve into the 0.025" rod (without breaking it!) - it's not perfect, but nothing I do is. The horseshoe that holds the nose wheel is a separate part from the strut, so I pinned that to make it stronger. I also made a new drag brace from rod which has the correct triangle where it attaches to the nose gear well, and the straight brace that connects to the nose gear strut. The rod that goes from the bottom of the drag brace to the lower portion of the strut contains the nose gear lock. I stuck some rod in to represent that as well. You can see that one of the shrink links is not straight! Better photo later on... The main gear struts needed the addition of the lower lock link, a short piece that goes from the strut to the side brace link, and the drag brace which goes from the strut towards the rear into that small slot-like opening in the gear well. I hope I'm identifying all these properly - I'm trying my best to interpret the drawings in the Ginter volume, but seeing that I know virtually nothing about these sorts of things I could be wrong. You can also see the PE that I added to the main gear well floor - I think this will look OK under some paint. Putty work has started on the wing roots, but still needs finishing. Actually, most of the putty work will need refining once some paint goes down. The indented slot on the lower fuselage above the front of the gear well is where the pylon for the drop tanks attach. If I don't use the tanks, these will need to be filled. I think. Oh, yeah, I started working on the empennage - I rounded the end of the beaver tail and began work on the light at the very end. The light is a portion of a very small practice bomb from some CMK kit. I used a razor saw to split it so half would be above and half below the tail. I need to finish sanding this into shape, but I'm happy with it so far. So, obviously the landing gear is in place. Cue shock and amazement from @giemme. I adjusted the location of the nose gear to help achieve a better nose-high sit of the aircraft. Once the tyres are added, the nose won't sit quite this high since the main gear tyres are larger than the nose gear tyre. You can see the bend in the shrink link better in this shot. So that's where we are. About 75% of the work is done, now I just need to concentrate on the remaining 95%. Cheers, Bill PS. On the down side of things, I discovered a nasty flaw in the vacuform windscreen (a rather nasty dimple) that will render it useless. I'm really disappointed in this Pavla set - I previously let you know about the issues with the resin forward fuselage parts and now this with the vacuform. I'd complain to Pavla, but, uh, they're out of business. I wonder why?
  4. Stunning detail work and an awesome display of craftsmanship. I absolutely love it! It's the first time I've seen a Starfighter build with the radome open that way - makes for a very unique presentation. Cheers, Bill
  5. Now there's some exquisite airbrush work. Very nicely done indeed. Cheers, Bill
  6. Very nicely done! What a great collection of colourful airliners. Superb! Cheers, Bill
  7. We have a winner! You only get 5 of the 10 points because you guessed twice. To get the other 5 points you have to guess which of the two it came from AND you have to finish this bloody model for me! Cheers, Bill
  8. Sounds like a good idea to me. Normally, I don't put pointy things (pitot tubes, nose probes, antennae, etc.) on the model until the very end. Not sure why I decided to add the fuel dumps before the wings went on - probably because it was easier to get at. Still no winner in the "guess where the PE came from" riddle. Here's another clue - it's from an Eduard set for a Revell kit. Cheers, Bill PS. So Newcastle already has enough of their own coal? Being a silly Yank, I don't get the reference. I bet @Procopius knows.
  9. If I put this on the shelf next to my copy of 300...I wonder if they'd get into a fight? Cheers, Bill
  10. 1) Outside diameter of 1.0 mm and an inside diameter of 0.8 mm. Albion Alloys, of course. 2) Haven't decided yet. Since I'll be doing the F3H-2N, there certainly won't be any Sparrows. Sparrow I missiles and the correct AERO 3A launchers are part of this kit, but I believe they're only correct for a -2 or -2M. This kit doesn't include the correct AERO 1A pylons/launchers for the Sidewinders although the other Emhar kit does. This kit has four rocket pods and pylons however. Three pylon stations are on each wing, in addition to two stations on the fuselage for the drop tanks or heavier ordnance. So I don't know, I might just do her clean. I'll take any victory, no matter how small! Another clue - the two bits of PE that I used on the sidewalls of the nose gear well were originally one piece. Cheers, Bill
  11. Thanks Erwin. So far I haven't knocked the fuel dumps off. Once I get the flaps on they'll be protected a bit better. They surely do look better than what came with the kit. Think jets, not propellers. Thanks Terry. After having a look in my stash, I believe that shake 'n' bake kits are mythical. ***** I was starting to think about how I could "box in" the main gear wheel wells, as the sidewalls in the kit do not extend to the floor of the well. I searched for some walkaround photos and found quite a few that show this area. For example: Note that the sidewalls of the well do not extend to the floor. (Other photos show this all around the gear well.) Whether Emhar got this correct through research or by serendipity, I'm glad that I don't have to box it in. The floor of the main gear wells has a lot of rivets, but not a lot of structural detail. I found some old PE bits that will let me add some detail to the floor, although these will be light grooves and not lines of rivets. But I think it will be OK, as no one looks at the bottom of my models - not even me. I'm also looking into whether the main gear legs are too tall - completed models of this kit don't seem to quite have the right "set." It should be a bit more "nose high." We'll see. Cheers, Bill
  12. Quick update - the Demon is now winged, with no anhedral or dihedral (as far as my old eyeballs can see) when viewed head-on to the wings. The fit is not the greatest, so I will be filling the wing roots. Interestingly, I had to remove the tab on each lower wing in order to make the wing fit into the slot in the fuselage. It was either that, or open up the slot significantly. I took the easy way out. In another example of my laziness, I did not cut out the section of tab visible through the main gear well opening (as was advised by a modeller who did it correctly), since I wanted to leave a "ledge" that the gear door can sit on. Anyway, here is the beastie with her wings. Lots and lots of work still to do. I added some detail to the nose gear well, consisting of styrene card stock and rod, doing my best to make a feeble impression of the real thing. The port side of the nose gear well has some hydraulic lines and/or cables and I found a bit of old unused photoetch to fake that. A similar PE bit, without the lines, was added to the other side. (The PE came from a fret designed for a USN aircraft - 10 points for guessing which one.) All of this looks absolutely horrible at this stage. Rest assured that several coats of some very thick paint will hide my inadequate modelling skills. I think. Maybe. The main linkage for the nose gear strut (which reaches back to the hole in the middle of the well) is completely erroneous in the kit. I'm now having a go at scratchbuilding one from styrene rod. I haven't really looked yet, but I suspect the same will be required for the main gear. One of these days I will have to build one of them shake 'n' bake kits one hears talk about. Cheers, Bill
  13. The F3H Demon had fuel dumps for the wing tanks on each wing between the flaps and ailerons, as can be seen in this overhead shot: Most of the photos I've seen show the fuel dumps painted up as a nice candy cane, presumably so you don't smack some irreplaceable part of your body against them if you're not paying attention. When the flaps are down and the wings folded, the fuel dumps stick out quite a bit and are rather precarious. The Emhar kit represented these in styrene rather poorly. What the kit included were just simple sticks, as can still be seen in the flaps that I cut out. I decided to try and reproduce these with brass tubing, which would require me to flatten the tubing a bit since the actual fuel dumps did not have a circular cross section. This was pretty easy to do, but what was not so easy was to get an even, consistent flattening. It wouldn't be a problem if I had an arbor press, but I was working with pliers. I finally settled on a ginormous pair of water pump pliers with wide jaws. This allowed me to flatten the entire length of tube at the same time, applying a consistent pressure. Closest thing I could find to an arbor press. The fuel dumps on the Demon emerged from a u-shaped metal conduit which I represented with some styrene card stock. I didn't attempt to make the u-shape as it would be too small in 1:72 scale and the flap would obscure most of it anyway. At the end of the day, I think these will work. How I'm going to paint the candy cane is beyond me. So, how many times will I bonk these off before the end of the build? Cheers, Bill
  14. Thanks Cookie. No chance of Boeing buying me, I don't think they could afford the debt burden. Thanks! I got pretty frustrated with the decal shenanigans, but I like the final result. She looks good next to my other two Hornets (Canadian Tiger Meet and USN Centennial). Cheers, Bill
  15. Oh, don't you start! Technically, it's a McDonnell Demon as Douglas didn't join the fray until 1967. So if we follow the trend, the DC-3 was Douglas first, McDonnell-Douglas second, and is now Boeing. Ugh. I guess I can understand calling the Super Hornet a Boeing product as it's still in production after the merger. But it still bugs me. I thought for sure that I'd have it finished before the Group Build deadline, but the decal fracas cost me a few weeks and then the extended family had some fun with Covid, and generally life got in the way. But we all survived and the model is finished. Yeah, I should have painted the stripes right from the get-go. Ultimately they look better than a decal would have. I was really surprised with the problems with the TwoBobs sheet (printed by Microscale). On close examination (my magnifier) I honestly think they forgot to add the carrier film. I could see no trace of it - and once I added clear lacquer over everything the decals performed fine, although I had to trim everything real close. Weird. Thanks Ben. I'm doing the Emhar kit as I already had one in the stash (which I bought when the kit first came out), along with all the aftermarket that was made for it. Besides, I like a challenge that turns me into a berserker. I couldn't either - it's too big! I think it's much easier to add detail in 1:32 scale (I did that with my Tamiya Spitfire) but you have to add so much more of it or it doesn't look right. With 1:72, I can add just a bit and it looks good. Since I'm naturally lazy, it's a good scale for me. Actually, it wasn't too bad. The HUD framework was one photoetch piece with two folds, and the combining glasses were easy to cut out of the film (just follow the printed outline). The hardest part was getting the film positioned correctly on the frame - hard to see without the correct lighting and a good magnifier. My old man eyes didn't help! But we got there. Thanks. Hopefully I'll not have problems with the Demon, although some of the decals I want to use are a couple or three decades old. No doubt I will give them a coat of clear lacquer just in case! ***** Thanks to everyone for the nice compliments! Cheers, Bill
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