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Navy Bird

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Navy Bird last won the day on September 12

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About Navy Bird

  • Birthday 03/29/1955

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    Rochester, NY USA
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    Glued together after spinal surgery #10...

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  1. Beginning the splotcherating of the underside. My photo lights have diminished the effect somewhat; damn diffusion anyway. It's more noticeable to the naked eye, so I don't want to overdo it. Exhaust stains, oil drips, and paint chips will come later (I suppose). The blues on top will be faded with various shades of blue-grey and it will be interesting to see how badly I muck it up. Stickers will go on at some point. Once I've satisfied with the amount of damage I've done, then there will be a flat varnish followed by more damage inflicted by pastel chalks. And maybe another coat of flat varnish to make sure the pastel dust stays in place. To be honest, I prefer painting nice shiny display schemes. Cheers, Bill
  2. Hey, I haven't forgotten this one. The basic colours are on, but there is a long way to go to "post-shade and fade" this baby. I was able to view a colour photograph of Ol' Blunderbuss that is in a private collection, and the amount of fading and weathering is considerable. Basically the aircraft looks to be covered in a myriad of different shades of gray, with a few patches of freshly applied paint. However, I would be surprised if this old photo/print/scan is entirely accurate in its colour rendition. So, I'll do my best to make her look like she's been through the wringer, but I'm sure she will still have the blues. Cheers, Bill PS. I hate showing pictures at this stage, as it looks so bad. It will get better - I promise!
  3. Thanks Roberto. It's been fun so far! ***** Perusing through the rest of the instructions, I find that Fine Molds include a "supporting stand assembly." That surprised me, as I've never had a Tomcat model need weight in the nose, even when the wings are swept. Then I noticed the fine print: "The model will stand without supporting stand." Well, I'm glad we cleared that one up. Now I'm wondering what the supporting stand is used for. I can find no other reference to it. Is very strange, no? I assembled both wings and just had to try them out: You may notice that I've added the spine. As I've said before, the fit was great. I thought at first that Fine Molds forgot that the F-14D had extra antennae bumps on the front of the wing gloves, but it turns out they are provided as separate parts. I haven't test fit them yet, but I guess if you want to share the fuselage with the F-14A kit that's how you need to do it. Hope they don't end up looking like they're scabbed on. I've got a few more seams to clean up with Mr. Surfacer, and then I think we'll be dangerously close to putting some paint on this baby. Cheers, Bill
  4. Great stuff Tony! The new Airfix kit looks like a keeper to me, what with all of the huffing about it. Your renditions are beautiful - the SEAC PR.XVI is my fave of the lot. But - you've made me realise that I don't have a Mossie in the display case. How can this be? I have the old Hasegawa FB Mk. VI in the loft somewhere...best to get that on the list for next year, or the next virus variant, whichever comes first. Cheers, Bill
  5. My feelings exactly, with my experience trending more towards the "quite naff" end of the spectrum. I think I eventually gave up and just shoot any old grey paint as a primer. ***** I can't wait to see this Spitfire adorned with @Fritag's glorious paintwork. Bring it on! Cheers, Bill PS, You know, Mr. Friday, you really should leave some mistakes on the model. Only God is perfect.
  6. Sure, why not? Gotta build it sometime! Cheers, Bill PS. JASDF - great idea!
  7. Hmm...somewhere I have the Hasegawa 1:72 F-15E so maybe I could find some interesting markings for it. I'm not a big fan of low-viz grey schemes. Let me poke around! Cheers, Bill
  8. Sign me up. I have the Hasegawa F/A-18F which I'd like to do in VFA-2 colours, the Revell F/A-18E in VFA-31 regalia, or maybe even the old Hasegawa F/A-18A which I could do in a variety of flavours (CAF comes to mind). All in the proper scale of course. Cheers, Bill
  9. I think you could do that. The bottom of the fin and the top of the fin base are both flat and the fit is good (no gap to fill or seam to clean up). BTW Giorgio, you win. I can't add the main gear legs now as they will interfere with the painting the wavy demarcation line between the Light Gull Gray and White. I knew that, of course, as I've built about a gazillion Tomcats. But I forgot because, well, I'm an old fogey. ***** I figured out how I can add the spine and then add the canopy sill later. I had to remove a peg from inside the top front of the spine (this peg mates with a hole at the rear of the sill) and then modify the "slots" on the bottom of the sill. Let me explain that last part - there are two pegs, one each inside the nose section sidewall where the spine joins. On the bottom of the sill, at the rear, are two "fingers" that form a slot that slips over the top of these pegs. I simply removed the rearmost finger, and now (in combination with the removal of the peg first discussed) the sill will slide in after the spine is in place. None of the changes I made are visible, not do they interfere with the correct location of the sill. Some PE on the main gear leg: Fiddly indeed. Cheers, Bill
  10. I did. They fit really well, and they have the 5 degree from vertical splay angle just about right. Since the Tomcat Sunset scheme has Light Gull Gray fins with White rudders, I didn't think there would be a need to hold them off until after painting the fins and adding the stickers. I think I've done all my Tomcats this way, even the all-black fins on my other VF-31 Felix bird. A beautiful aircraft for sure. But I've heard many times that it was a maintenance nightmare. But who cares? Helen of Troy was a maintenance nightmare, but boy was she nice to look at. I was a huge F-111 fan back in the late 60s, and I thought it was the coolest thing in the world. Then I saw a photo of the Tomcat and my gob was truly smacked. Move to the side, Mr. F-111. And then later on I saw a photo of the new F-15 and I exclaimed: "Meh." It wasn't a Phantom. But then look what's still flying - the F-15. Cheers, Bill PS. Speaking of maintenance nightmares, I read that the aircraft I'm modelling did not fly during the Tomcat Sunset event as it broke down. Instead, an aircraft with a "low-viz" version of the same markings did the flying display. Those markings are on my decal sheet too, but I insist on Light Gull Gray and White as nature intended.
  11. No doubt the same guys that strip copper pipes and wires out of your house while you're sleeping will be descending in droves to get at that titanium. ***** As you recall, the wings on the Fine Molds kit are moulded with slats and flaps in the neutral position. Which is fine, I've got Hasegawa kits a-plenty if I'd like everything hanging out. But why engineer the wing parts like this? Specifically, the extra little bit of flap: I like that the bottom of the wing is an "insert" so that the trailing edge can be nice and thin, and the leading edge doesn't have a seam running down the middle of it. In any event, the parts fit together nicely. I started working on the nose gear. Fine Molds have done a great job of building very precise tooling - it's difficult to see any mould parting lines. Nice, saves me some scraping. I decided to tart up the gear with some of the photoetch for the Revell kit, specifically the oleo scissors and the tie-down rings. I'll do the same for the main gear, where the PE set not only has nice oleo scissors but also brake lines and other unknown (to me) greeblies. As supplied with the kit, the scissors are all solid, which even in 1:72 scale looks a bit weird. The Revell PE set has a veritable truckload of microscopic bits - like this one that goes on the bottom of the forward fuselage light sabre and ion cannon: At this point, I'm too lazy to look in my references to see if there is such a feature at this location so I just slapped it on. We can assume that Eduard did their proper homework and researched all this stuff, right? Right? I mean, none of their photoetch is fictitious, is it? Well, is it? And, lo and behold, we're really starting to look like a promiscuous feline now: The inflatable bladders aft of the wings are provided in two sets - one for the wings forward (inflated) and one for wings swept (deflated). I believe that Fine Molds would have you switch depending on how you pose the wings. Although they don't include a "do not glue" statement, the bladders fit well enough that they'll stay in place without glue, unless there's some seismic event. Speaking of swept wings, I've encountered my first issue with the kit. When the wings are swept back, I don't think they go quite far enough. There is just this little bit more that is necessary for the leading edge and the wing glove to form a nice straight line. You can put them in the correct position, but they bounce back that wee bit. Not a big problem, and I won't be seeing my shrink over the induced anxiety. Wait, there is no provision for over-sweep! Maybe I need the shrink after all. Cheers, Bill
  12. Ah, but the search was so much fun! No worries. Cheers, Bill
  13. Great choice of subject, Heather! I had a lot of problems with the resin interior framework with m kit - so much so that I simply replaced it all with styrene rod. The whole sordid story can be found here. At the end of the day, though, I thought the kit built up pretty good. Cheers, Bill
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