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Navy Bird

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Navy Bird last won the day on April 5

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About Navy Bird

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    Completely Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 03/29/1955

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    Rochester, NY USA
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    Beat Lymphoma - Twice!

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  1. Very nice indeed! If it's too big, just put on an addition to your house. Cheers, Bill
  2. There is no maybe. There is only do. Besides, we can have a dual build. Cheers, Bill
  3. Thanks Steve. I think a big part of modelling is illusion. Thanks Giorgio. Putting the transfers on is one of my favourite parts of building the model. Even the stencils. It really transforms it. Thanks. Immaculate, eh? I suspect if the Virgin was watching while I was building, she was covering her ears when I was working with those Print Scale decals. Agreed. The photo that I posted of this exact aircraft hardly shows any panel lines at all. I know why washes are so popular, but I think it has be subtle. I'm guilty of some real bad examples! Thanks. Some of the old kits are diamonds in the rough. Often, their shapes are more accurate than modern tooling. And this kit went together quite well - no fit problems, etc. She looks good. Now if I can refine my scribing technique beyond that of the Matchbox Mad Trench Digger, the next one will look better! Thanks Terry. Nothing special here, just Gunze H73 Dark Green and H75 Dark Sea Grey. I didn't modulate the paint at all, as I wanted her to look nice and clean - right out of the paint shop. Now H73 and H74 are Gunze's "WWII" versions of these colours. They also make H330 Dark Green BS381C/641 and H331 Dark Sea Grey BS381C/638 which are supposed to be the "modern" versions of these colours. I don't know if there even was a difference between these time frames, maybe @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies does. Anyway, I prefer H73 and H74 and use these for both time frames. H331 in particular is a weird grey with a purple tinge, whereas I think Dark Sea Grey was fairly neutral. (Although e-paint.co.uk shows the RGB equivalent as 104, 108, 113, but I don't know if that extra bit of blue is enough to make it look purple.) Your mileage may vary. **** OK, how about some air brakes? I found some leftover photoetch in the spares box that I decided to use for actuators. I think they were originally intended as straps for some thing. Anyway, they fit nicely, like so: And a view from the top: These aren't strong enough by themselves, as a hinge action is possible, and if I move them too much they could break. Plus, the real thing seems to have a gusset-like support as well, so I used some old True Details 1950s USAF antennae to act as a surrogate (these are the gold-coloured parts in the photos). Then I added the air brakes. I'll take it. Not sure it was worth all the effort, but it adds some interest. I'm tempted to leave the gussets gold - I can make believe they were some fancy alodining or anodising. They look more interesting this way. Or maybe I'll paint them aluminum. Next up will be the canopy seals. I know they were off-white in real life, but I don't have any off-white decal stripes, so mine will be white. But they're old decal stripes, so maybe they won't be bright white. Cheers, Bill
  4. Yeah, apparently the aperture is determined by the size of the sensor, and it works out to f/1.8 or something like that. I was confused because my Android phone has two aperture settings, not sure how they do that. Apps that fool around with the depth of field are taking multiple exposures with different focus points and merging them together, usually to make the depth of field smaller so you get a blurred background. Which is the opposite of what you want. Might I suggest, gulp, using an actual camera? You can get some pretty inexpensive point and shoot digital cameras that have aperture priority. Ha! That was pretty funny. Microwave my phone to charge it - and people fell for that? Cheers, Bill
  5. Beautiful paint work. You've captured it perfectly. Great job! Cheers, Bill
  6. I love it when a master creates a superb model out of an old "outdated" un-buildable kit. Great job! Cheers, Bill
  7. Tell me that's a table from a doll house... Cheers, Bill PS. Looks fantastic!
  8. No such thing as too brave in modeling! Go for it. Cheers, Bill
  9. Oh, before I forget - here is what I meant when I said the blue in the Print Scale roundels was too light. Here it's compared to an Xtradecal roundel from my spares box. I think this shows the issue. It looked worse when I slid one onto the model. Whoosh! I slid it right back off. The white wasn't very opaque either. For those of you who have the Heller/Airfix T.3 in your stash, or have built the kit in the past, you know that the actuator ram/connector link that's part of the nose gear is moulded as one solid piece. This isn't right, as the real thing has lightening holes in its forging, and resembles a Y. The Airwaves PE set gives you a photoetched replacement piece, but I didn't want to remove the plastic piece in its entirety as the nose gear is spindly enough as it is. So I culled my years of modelling experience and pulled out "Modelling Perception Cheat No. 437." I painted the plastic link flat black, and glued the PE part on top. VoilĂ ! (or is it Violin!?) Works for me, but I'm easy to please. And now for the StickerStorm (thanks for introducing me to a new word @perdu!) The roundels came from the spares box, the fin flash and squadron markings from the PrintScale sheet with the appropriate amounts of sweating and swearing as previously noted (although the underwing codes came from a Model Alliance sheet). The stencils came from a variety of places, using the Airfix 1:48 placement guide. None of the stencils are readable without the help of a microscope, and none of them have any relevance to where they're placed (I suspect), other than the obvious ones that I had to do correctly (like the ejection seat triangles, etc.) The varnish is Floquil Flat, which is my go-to clear for an egg shell sheen. I love the stuff (cue another opportunity to curse Testors). Anyway, here she is at the moment. I elected not to do a panel line wash because old fumble thumbs scribed the lines so deep that they can be seen by @Martian Hale on top of Olympus Mons. There is a lot left to do. Tail planes, elevators, periscopes, simulator pressure heads, canopy seals, rest of the landing gear doors, wing pitot probe, airbrakes, exhaust painting, navigation lights, etc. I'm kinda linking how she looks though. Cheers, Bill PS. And once all that is done, I got another one to build. Yikes.
  10. Definitely need to follow this one. The High Planes kit has always interested me, so it will be fun seeing what you make of it. A masterpiece, no doubt. And I like that scheme. XN708 will be a fine tribute. My dark secret is that I fully intend to build the CyberHobby kit, warts and all. I have the usual assortment of aftermarket to tart it up, but I won't be attempting to correct the front fuselage cross-section other than the nose. At my age, the grandiose dreams of youth have crashed against the wall of reality - I ain't got enough time to be fixing all this stuff! Not if I want to make a decent run at my stash. Cheers, Bill PS. I'll fix the easy stuff like the boom length, which I think is off just like the Xtrakit effort was. PPS. How about the Red Bull livery? You can put Max Verstappen in the cockpit, and Jos in the coal hole.
  11. You don't know if you'll ever see that kit again, so you have to buy it. Right? Am I right? Tell the truth now... Cheers, Bill PS. Besides, it was the 1:72 Fine Molds F-14A. It's not something you want, it's something you need.
  12. Really looking good, great work with the IPs. Why can't Eduard get the right colour on those pre-painted panels? The US ones which should be 36231 Dark Gull Grey are this crazy blue-grey colour. Ugh! I re-paint every one. To get both panels in focus at the same time, you need to stop down the aperture on your camera. Your exposure will get longer, but if you have enough light on the subject it shouldn't be a problem. Put the camera in Aperture Priority mode (most cameras, even smartphones, will have this), and stop down to f/16 or higher. Cheers, Bill
  13. Eclecticism is a good thing. Cheers, Bill PS. I'll admit to owning ABBA CDs...
  14. So is this Ced guy a high-tech tool/gadget freak who builds an occasional model, or a die-hard styrene sniffer that just likes to have a tool for every task? I can't tell. Maybe he's a die-hard high-tech styrene sniffing tool/gadget freak with a passion for killer tour guiding. Cheers, Bill
  15. My "Like" is for Judy Garland. I never got into that disco stuff. Cheers, Bill
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