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About FinnAndersen

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  • Location
    Copenhagen, Denmark
  • Interests
    WWII RAAF and RAAF in RAF; Any P-51's

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  1. I'm doing a lot of Spitfires and have scanned a pattern to be able to cut my own masks using Tamiya sheets in my Silhouette cutter. You would think that it only applies to multiple builds of the same basic type. (Spitfire scheme did not change from Mk I to Mk very late), but recently I did two Typhoons and I made masks for both with very little fuss. /Finn
  2. I was kind of disappointed with the cockpits of the XIV series. One of them is currently being part of my MM660, a XIV with a Spiteful wing. Short of discarding everything and putting in an Eduard cockpit from a IX, you just have to bite the bullet at give it your best. As I recall the 'pits are similar to their V series, i.e. not very convincing even when covered by a hood. Not very helpful, I'm afraid, but there it is. I still hope that Eduard makes a Mk I to V and a XIV. Then we will have a decent kit of these, if not ultimate. /Finn
  3. Nobody - and I mean nobody - will ever see that you sanded off the raised part, but personally I would do it and always remember that I did WW2 cockpits were a very busy area with knobs, levers, buttons, breakers, structural members and all other stuff beside the instrument panel. So detailing just the panel and leave the other blank will not be very convincing. You need to balance your efforts and realise that not all you put into the cockpit will ever be seen. But it's sure fun doing it /Finn
  4. A third option: Sand away the moulded details and apply decal. I find it very hard to see details like this through a Cockpit cover, especially in this scale, so just a notion of a instrument panel is sufficient. HTH /Finn
  5. The trouble with the Dremel and other motor tools is that they rotates far too fast, melting the plastic. The idea with the holes is neat in theory, but hard to pull off in practice. As I see it the only viable option is a saw, but that's not all. You also need a way to fix the piece when cutting. Duct tape is a possibility or some sort of clamp. I can recommend practice. Buy a load of Starfix kits and hone your skills on them, before attempting the expensive kits. HTH /Finn
  6. Perhaps, it's not my scale so can't be sure, but I would have expected the bottom of the engine to be significantly deeper than the wing, as per your picture. Anyway, how do you intend to cut for the radiator? /Finn
  7. Not to rain on your parade, but your nice work illustrates that the Allison mustang has the higher fuselage of a Merlin engined, which is not quite correct. Compare with the first picture. It makes the conversion much easier, but largely unnecessary. Model companies, take note of this! /Finn
  8. As I see it, you don't need to know how the actual adjustment was done. Creating the gantry and placing the Corsair will tell the viewer enough. Go ahead, it's a great idea. /Finn
  9. You would have to mate a B nose and a B radiator scoop to a A fuselage. And please mind that the A fuselage ought to be somewhat lower than the B. We still need the definitive early Mustang in 1/72 as most model companies offer a B fuselage with their A models. But I understand your wish, It sure looks different... /Finn
  10. I use artists oil colours thinned with turpenoid and it goes over the base enamel paint with no ill effects. Black lines appeared with engraved lines many moons ago and was promptly shot down in flames as being unrealistic. I mix an oil colour that is somewhat darker than the camouflage and apply it sparingly, it's very easy to overdo it, but then you can remove it with a cotton bud dipped in Turpenoid. Again I would recommend trying on a paint mule. A nearly finished model is far too valuable to use in an experiment. /Finn Link to an example
  11. Please note that removal of the seat armour would upset the CG and that you had to compensate. It is not a trivial task to do. /Finn
  12. So was it a seat parachute they wore? Just curious. /Finn
  13. Certainly not for sure, but being a former skydiver, I know a bit about parachutes and such. I'd venture the following: Unless the gunner was wearing a seat parachute, I'd say from the picture that he would be stuck between the guns and the perspex as the parachute would be clipped to the front of his body, increasing his girth considerably. Pure guesswork, but my 5 pence... /Finn
  14. Well, its kits of the same airplane, but within 15 secs I have spotted quite a big number of differences. Wings, rudder, sprue layout... /Finn
  15. I build 3-5 kits a year, so I don't care what they cost, especially if they are good kits. Now back to Early Spitfires, please... /Finn
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