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About FinnAndersen

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Copenhagen, Denmark
  • Interests
    WWII RAAF and RAF; N.A. P-51

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  1. If no-one near you can help, PM me. I'm in Denmark, but should be able to mail you one. /Finn
  2. Outch... Should have known that. Must read again, thanks. /Finn
  3. I have studied the subject of blue spitfires on Malta for years, but (in order not to overwhelm you with all the discussion and data) believe that the blue was an attempt to have camouflage that suited the primary battlefield, namely the air above the Mediterranean - not the Western Desert. By 1943, the war had moved on and the attacks on Malta almost disappeared, so the need for at better camouflage was not critical and/or covered by the Dark Green/Ocean Grey standard fighter camouflage. Where did you read about Mk IX on Malta? /Finn
  4. Go with Avieology's decals. What is important, is that the red (or indeed all colours) is consistent in all national markings. This is what a spectator sees, not that the colour may be off compared to other decals.
  5. FinnAndersen


    I'm with Ed Russel, so please do not overdo this one. It would have been kept very well, being prewar. When you state that you want it "real", I take it that you want to make an accurate representation of a real aircraft, so why all this weathering when it probably wasn't on the real object? Your skills lack nothing (what we see is certainly well done), but sometimes the real skill is not to use the skill. HTH Finn FWIW: There's a section for such posts called Work in Progress, perhaps you could have gotten further tips and tricks if you had pos
  6. FinnAndersen


    The question of accentuating panel lines is a controversial one. Some fill in with black oil, some do not bother at all. What I have done is to move away from the jet black lines (which when done properly look terrific, but are inherently unrealistic) to something barely visible. My latest models have thus had a treatment of darker green oil in the green areas of camouflage, darker grey in the grey areas - you get the idea. I have never perfected the technique of "spraying transverse in against flying direction" as panel lines generally go in all directions, so I
  7. I did Mr Surface trick on a 1/72 Hasegawa Hurricane. Quite messy. The problem is that what you should aim for, is a kind of multi faceted surface, like a diamond. The fabric was stretched very tight over the stringers and the stringers are very close, unlike the spars on a wing. So apply Mr Surfacer, preferably one "trench" at a time , sand very lightly, apply again and so on. good luck Finn
  8. Try AviationMegastore, they have got some e.g. https://www.aviationmegastore.com/detailset-seatbelts-raf-late-super-2x0-e73-026-eduard-8591437730261-seats-buckles-pedals/product/?action=prodinfo&art=124568 Go to advanced search, search for E73 in scale modelling, supplier Eduard and go to the seats, buckles and pedals section. I use them for open cockpit builds and consider them matchless. HTH Finn
  9. You should look for Kits-World sheet KW172095. It has codes for 19 examples. I have no clue as to the availability. HTH Finn
  10. FinnAndersen

    Haze Paint?

    Can confirm what Graham says, but dunno if this is any help at all: Hannants have a "FS15190 Synthetic Haze Blue enamel" https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/X160
  11. So it did not have wings?
  12. As a rule, don't trust anything on a colorised photo. I fail to see the (faint) traces of the yellow surround on the original. HTH Finn
  13. I did this one with code letters from Xtradecals X72189 and the serial printed on clear decal sheet in my computer printer. It depicts Australian pilot Howard Mayers plane of 601 sqn Of course you are in trouble if there is personal markings on your subject, but ready made decals are only one option; others exist
  14. Michael lives in Australia and wants to choose between what is available there. Agree that the AZ is a better kit, dimension wise.
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