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ColonelKrypton's Achievements

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  1. Really just a burr. Dental burrs are burrs but sized and shaped to use with dental tools and for working on dental stuff. Available in all sorts of sizes and shapes with small 1/16" size shank with 3/32 and 1/8 being common for hand held rotary tools but so are 1/4" and even larger burrs. While eBay and even Amazon have lots to choose from, my choice these days is to find a good jewellers supply and there are plenty around. They will have burrs of many sizes and shapes suitable for model making. Look for Busch or Fox brand and you can get round burrs in sizes as small as 0.30mm ( yes 0.3mm diameter ) up to 8 to 10mm. In one of Model Mate's threads I mentioned that I had been experimenting with nail caviar ( tiny tiny balls ) for adding rivets. I have found that rather than using a small diameter drill to make a shallow hole or dimple into which the tiny tiny ball can be glued, I find it easier and can get better consistency using one of these tiny tiny round burrs in a pin vise that make a better shaped dimple for my tiny tiny balls. Cooksongold is one such supplier in the UK https://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/-Range=Burrs/-Size=0/-Type=0/-Brand=0/-Font=0/&prdsearch=y will take you right to displaying burrs. Cooksongold is not the only one, just the first one that popped into my fuzzy morning brain, HSWalsh is another. In Canada I goto https://www.gessweincanada.com/ I like to support my local hobby store but when it comes to tools like files, drills, burrs, piercing saws, and the like I prefere the better quality kit I can get from these jewellers suppliers. And to get back on track, your build is starting to move along nicely - lots of food for thought. cheers, Graham
  2. Quite apt, or maybe a pug. Admittedly, I was only a bit aware of the Archer and always thought that front end was in the direction gun was pointing. Now I know and every time I look at an Archer I am going to see that bulldog or pug. cheers, Graham
  3. An excellent question and one to which I have not yet found a reliable answer. In case you were not aware, rivet sizes are given to the diameter of the shank - not the diameter of the head. I knew that when I was thinking something like pop rivets ( i.e. blind rivets ) but never made the connection to the larger steel construction type rivets. I recall reading somewhere about the construction of the Eiffel Tower where a list of rivet sizes and their cost per 100kg was given - the largest size was 25mm. So, a 25mm rivet with a 25mm shank would have a head diameter of about 44mm not quite twice the shank diameter. That 25mm / 44mm diameter relationship comes from a document I found describing button head rivets and their sizes where a 1 inch rivet ( shank diameter remember ) would have a head diameter of about 1-3/4 inches. I have searched through various model railroad forums for rivet information. After all, many early armoured vehicles where built by locomotive builders, for example Montreal locomotive works, Baldwin locomotive, etc. I have not yet found a lot but I did find this interesting online magazine published by Model Railroad Hobbyist where their August 2011 issue has an interesting article on rivets: http://macrodyn.com/assets/files/MRH11-08/MRH11-08-Aug2011.pdf All of their back issues are available online and they are all free: https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/magazine/back-issues I like trains but I am not a model train enthusiast. However these model train magazines do contain a great deal of interesting stuff which is applicable to all genres of model making. I quite like your use of the nail caviar for riveting and I have been playing around this technique for some time. I have also worked out a way to make rivets using jewellers beading tools and cup burrs. Once I get organized I will post some more on the later. Here is a teaser: on the small grey piece on the right, for reference the brown rivet heads are Tichy Train rivets of 0.020" (0.5mm), 0.0.25" (0.6mm), and 0.030" (0.75mm) smallest on the bottom, all of the others were made using the jewellers beading tools and the large rivets on the idler and drive wheels are bout 1mm. Gonna stop now lest you think I am trying to hi-jack you WIP. cheers, Graham
  4. Thank you kindly, Khaki Green 3 looks like a good place to start. cheers, Graham
  5. the interior layout would certainly be a best guess and as you suggest much would likely have been removed as no longer being needed. I am not so sure about an internal winch however. From what little text I have found and the one picture showing a A frame mounted to the front of the vehicles, it looks as though the initial intent was to use a simple A frame with block and tackle / chain hoist or a portable winch Now, given the time line being around late '42, what colour would this vehicle be painted? Given that this vehicle is reported to have been a lend lease Baldwin built Grant manufactured sometime in late '41 or early '42 would the prototype vehicle have remained in whatever colour it was shipped in or would it have been re-painted when the modifications were done? cheers, Graham
  6. I will be following along looking forward to how this build of such an interesting vehicles develops. cheers, Graham
  7. Thank you Phil. A few more interesting tid bits. I will keep an eye out for that book. cheers, Graham
  8. Thank you Bertie. Yes, the same four pictures I have already found. It was a one off prototype so I didn't expect to find much. It is amazing that you can find a great deal of information on some one off prototypes and other short run production types nearly nothing. Luck of the draw I suppose. I will keep peering into dark corners and look under rocks, you never know what you might find. cheers, Graham
  9. Sometime ago I stumbled across a picture of an ARV variant of the Grant referred to as a Grant ARV Mk I. Further described as T-23673, a Baldwin built, radial engine Grant converted to Armored Recovery Vehicle prototype and is a much simpler ARV design than the M31 Lee ARV. I have managed to find a several pictures of this machine, four in total which is enough to work from but it is would nice to have a few more. Other than http://the.shadock.free.fr/sherman_minutia/tankrecovery/m31_trv.html and the few pictures I found on the Imperial War Museum web site are there any other references for this one of a kind war time prototype? cheers, Graham
  10. Indeed. The Devil is in the details and there details a plenty on AFV's. The challenge is finding that delicate balance between too much and too few and I think you have done a fine job finding that balance in your half tracked vally prototype. cheers, Graham
  11. That is a very interesting and creative way to sort out your short track issue, nicely done. cheers, Graham
  12. What a good idea. Up till now I have been putting a spot of the paint that is in the bottle on the lid so that I could see what was in each without having to lift it up to have a look. But I think that from now on I will put a white sticky label on the bottle tops and follow your example and label each one appropriately. I will one step further and put a spot of actual paint on the label as well. cheers, Graham
  13. yes, you hold your bottle with your fingers and push it down onto the top of the mixer. it really doesn't vibrate but rather "spins". In some videos you will see users holding a their paint bottle on it's edge and pushed into the indent on the top of the mixer. This is not the correct way and doesn't work as well. If you want to see how the mixer works, use a clear bottle with some water ( a drop of two of food colouring might help ) and push it down on the top of the mixer and you should see the fluid move and "spin". If you have a small mixing ball you could add that too and you should hear it and see it spin around the bottle. Remember, it is not the vibration that you feel that does the mixing, it is the "spin" that the mixer imparts to the contents of the bottle that does the mixing. I have one like this: https://www.amazon.ca/JOANLAB-3000rpm-Adhesives-Permanent-pigments/dp/B08DFFV76P/ and quite like it. cheers, Graham
  14. Can't find anything using 5251+ but I can using FFA1P2 which leads me to the 3m Series 4000 half masks and model number 4251+ Must be a European part or model number as I don't any retailers for that model in Canada and the 4000 series masks isn't common either. In any case, I needed a new cartridges for my old mask. My old one never really fit very well, was big and bulky. Turns out it was a M and I need L. Instead of new cartridge's a new mask is in order and I found on very similar to the one you have. 3m makes good stuff and I found lots of choice on Amazon but you need to buy the half mask and the filter cartridges separately. The straps and buckles look like a weak spot but I did find a low profile with better looking straps; made in the UK and sold under the name GVS Elipse and comes with filter cartridges for that price. Only a wee bit more than a 3m half mask plus filters. And to shift back onto topic, your tracks are really looking the part. I have always found that it best to break this sort of assembly into short sessions as you have done otherwise I start to rush and when I rush mistakes get made. cheers, Graham
  15. ColonelKrypton


    That is so the broadcaster has a place to push on screen advertising at the bottom during the show. cheers,
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