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ColonelKrypton

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  1. Interesting idea, never thought of doing that. I will give it a try. cheers, Graham Sometime the obvious isn't all that obvious cheers
  2. Interesting idea, never thought of doing that. I will give it a try. cheers, Graham
  3. Ah, trunnel counters The pictures of belaying pins had do a quick search. Seems you can buy ready made belaying pins in various sizes and made from either wood or brass but not plastic interestingly. There are even those modellers who make their own from those same materials. Perhaps in the world of model ships the use of wood and brass are traditional where plastic is not very welcome just as it seems that in the plastic model world, plastic (plus resin) and brass are the norms and wood so common. Different mindset, different set of working tools, each biasing the builder one way or the other. I have been enjoying following along your build here and others over on model ship world. The subject matter interests me only from historic and techniques points of view. I have no real interest in building an old sailing ship or even a more modern naval vessel bristling with guns and whatnot. For some reason I find tugboats appealing but will I ever build a model of one? Never say never. For now I will just vicariously indulge in the world of model ships through builds like yours and other who graciously share their experiences on the forums. Rrrrrr, matey! ( perhaps if I practice my pirate speak it may push my hand to having a go at such a model ) cheers, Graham
  4. In all this, I see the accurately described my own portrait. Absolutely precise! I used to worry about unfinished models. But then I realized that this is not a job that must be done without fail, but a hobby, that is, an activity for pleasure. After I realized this, I no longer worry about unfinished models. I realized that my hobby is making unfinished models Spot on. Embrace the journey, follow your muse wherever it may take you. I too like the crinkly damaged parts. Try as I might, I just can't get plastic to look that nicely crinkled - but I keep on trying. cheers, Graham
  5. In case you were wondering, autoblinda is Italian for armoured car. https://www.google.com/search?q=autoblinda+translate+italian+to+english cheers, Graham
  6. For some reason I always tend to circle back around to model subjects from the early 1900's, just before and of the period of the Great War. Of late I have been working on some M3 Lee and Grant and M4 Sherman projects but have been itching to circle back as it were. Note: all links and references will appear at the bottom of the post On the Landships web site there are a number of well done card model designs suitable as starting points for scratch building some very interesting Great War armoured cars. I currently have a stalled build of a Poplavko Jeffery armoured car waiting on wheels as the next step of it's construction. Wheels for an armoured car are like the tracks for tank - part of their heart and soul and without which they are little more than immoveable hulks sitting in the middle of a field. However, the itch is strong - the desire to start something new, to explore something new and different can't be ignored. Alexandar Bondar has kindly made available several of his designs on the Landships web site within which you will find one for the Autoblinda Isotta-Fraschini RM and one for the Westmorland and Cumberland Yeomanry's second Isotta-Fraschini armoured car design. Both designs are interesting but which one to build. The Isotta-Fraschini Motor Company was founded in Milan, Italy in 1900 by Cesare Isotta and Vincenzo Fraschini along with Vincenzo's brothers Antonio and Oreste. Isotta-Fraschini went on to build some of the world's finest and most expensive motorcars, including the first production motorcar to be powered by a straight-eight engine, and one of the first to be fitted with four-wheel brakes. Their motorcars had an excellent reputation for quality and speed. In 1911 Isotta-Fraschini privately financed and constructed a prototype to examine whether an Isotta-Fraschini truck could be adapted with an armoured body to create an armoured car. The resulting Isotta-Fraschini 1911 autoblinda RM used the standard truck chassis mounting a 4mm thick steel armoured body. Armament consisted of roof mounted turret with 6.5mm machine gun with an additional 6.5mm machine gun firing from a mount on the rear plate of the vehicles armoured body. Two prototypes were constructed but the Italian Army showed little interest. Apparently, one was sent to Libya in 1912 and the other possibly fallen into German hands during the Great War. Formed April 1908, the Westmorland and Cumberland Yeomanry were a Territorial unit and were part of the Welsh Border Mounted Brigade. In 1914 they ordered the first of two armoured cars both of which to paid for from private funds. Completed in November 1914, their first armoured car was designed by C. W. Lowther based upon a 25 hp Isotta-Fraschini chassis with the armoured bodywork being done by Guy Lewin Ltd. Delivered in 1915, their second Armoured Car, was designed by Yeomanry's Commanding Officer, Lieutenant-Colonel Sir Bryan Leighton, and was of a completely different design to the 1914 model, the 1915 model having unusual exaggerated sharply pointed front and rear sections. This vehicle was also built upon a 25 hp Isotta-Fraschini chassis with the bodywork also being completed by Guy Lewin Ltd. Lt.Col. Leighton was a qualified pilot serving in the Royal Flying Corp. His knowledge of aircraft design and aerodynamics no doubt greatly influenced his armoured car's advanced aerodynamic design. Both designs are interesting but which one to build. Interestingly, I can find several pictures of the Italian Isotta-Fraschini autoblinda, two pictures of the Yeomanary 1914 armoured car, but only one of the 1915 version. This will be an ongoing work in progress. Don't expect frequent updates but do expect frequent diversions. And do join in so I don't feel like I am talking to myself. All comments and suggestions - good, bad, or indifferent are appreciated. cheers, Graham https://www.greatwarforum.org/topic/173218-ww1-military-motors-1916-set-x-50-cards/page/55/ https://en.topwar.ru/79642-bronevik-isotta-fraschini-rm-pervyy-broneavtomobil-italii.html http://www.landships.info/landships/models.html Alexander Bondar https://england1418.wordpress.com/category/1-royaume-uni/50-cavalerie/yeomanry/westmorland-and-cumberland-yeomanry/ https://www.google.ca/books/edition/The_Autocar/ImofAQAAMAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=1914+Westmorland+and+Cumberland+Yeomanry+armoured+car&pg=PA757&printsec=frontcover
  7. It is interesting how the colour appears to change from a more green shade in the first picture to a more brown shade in the second - different lighting, different background, different point from which it is viewed. cheers, Graham
  8. I tried acetone and it does work but I found it was more aggressive in softening the plastic. The product I have been using is Golden West (brand) Super Solvent (product name) and according to it's safety data sheet is mostly Nitromethane cas. no. 75-52-5 Not as aggressive a solvent as acetone with respect to styrene but is a pretty effective paint stripper. Common drug store nail polish remover ( there are two kinds, acetone based and acetone free ) may be a bit less aggressive than hardware store acetone but I have never tried them. cheers, Graham
  9. Wise choice I think for the reasons you state otherwise the gun carrier is looking better and more complete with every new post. Pin vises are very handy to have. At my last count I think I have at least half a dozen on the work bench and a couple more in a tool box and they all get used regularly. Not only useful for holding pins and drills for drilling but also for holding wee tiny parts while you cut, drill, or file on them and not just round parts but flat parts like photo etch, and bits of tiny wire so that you can twist them up nicely into a nice bit of cable - pin vise, not just for drilling holes; remember that vise is in the name As to using CA for attaching your nail caviar / rivets - at the moment I have been using CA almost exclusively for this and yes it can be a bit messy and can leave a bit of extra around the edge. I use a medium viscosity CA as I find it easier to handle and prefer it's longer setting time. I have been using a plastic dental pick toothpick thingy to apply the CA - I scrape the pointy end to sharper tip and a wee drop of CA will stay on the end which I can place where I want. I find the CA doesn't set and build up on the tip like I found it did on a metal pin. After the CA has set, I then use a cotton bud wetted with a bit of CA debonder and gently go over the rivets ( or other CA attached part ) to remove the excess CA spillover. cheers, Graham
  10. I would agree with Jack's assessment. I get the same "This site can't be reached" message. There are many such "shady" websites that pop up all the time - long enough to catch the unwary and then poof they are gone. I have stumbled across a few during some searches, too good to be true and after a bit of research they revealed their true "shady" nature. cheers, Graham
  11. Well done and the image with sails full of wind really shows it off well. Must be hard to take pictures of something this large when up to now your other subject were much smaller. cheers, Graham
  12. Been a while since I poked this proposed group build. There have been more Great War subject appearing as good quality kits these days - MiniArt's FWD, Liberty, and British Lorry for example. Also Das Werke's French Schneider C17S 155mm canon and Special Hobby is re-releasing some Great War 1/32 aeroplanes and Copper State Models, Lukgraph, and others have been steadily releasing new kits as well. And not only limited to aeroplanes and AFV's, I recall seeing some new ship models as well. Anyone else up for the challenge? cheers, Graham
  13. Hmmmm.... I thought I had signed on long ago. Alas, it seems I did not - seems I am starting to forget things before I even think of them. Please add me to the group - I am thinking a Ram Tank with a wee bit of kitbashing to turn it into a Ram Tank ARV Mk. 1 cheers, Graham
  14. It does look good. A few shorter planks with some cross wise joints might have looked good too - might add a bit of extra visual interest. Hind sight is nearly always 20-20. How long and wide would the foc'sle have been on the full size Beagle? Sandpaper? Probably would have been my first choice too and it certainly got the job done but I would have thought with your newfound prowess with fine wood working tools that you might have tackled job with a freshly sharpened scraper with the piece held still on a suitably small planing board. I wouldn't have thought of doing it that way except that just this morning I was truing up the surface of a cheap laminated dollar store bamboo cutting board and started with a piece of gritty sandpaper but quickly realized that it was job better suited to a hand scraper - a 10 minute job instead of 20+ minutes with a couple different grades of sandpaper and a nicer finish too me thinks. cheers, Graham
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