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  2. Hi, I even have that DP Caper sheet and those are really V models definitely an option! The Bush War Hinds 2 sheet is quite limited in respect to V models though..... The early Peruian Hinds were D models (with respective old style missile launch rails and different nose mounted targeting pods) , the later model with the low viz [sic] shark mount P models Cuba definitely has nice paint schemes, true!
  3. Gidday All, this is me in November 1974, just finished my last year of High School, and with a model of USS North Carolina BB55 I'd built that year. The model was scratch-built from balsa, matches, tooth picks and wood shavings. My sole reference for the build was a plastic model that I scaled up. And nearly 46 years later, here's me again with the same model. As you can see, 46 years of cobwebs, dust and neglect, and looking the worst for wear. And so is the model. SWMBO says I need a haircut. "Which one? " "All of them! " I've probably shocked you all enough, now. Regards to all, and stay safe, Jeff.
  4. That’s a shame Steve. The interior was great. I hope you have better luck with your next build dude.
  5. This is exactly my way of thinking, and I've not been shy of saying it! It's one of the reasons why I bought the old Airfix kit of the Westland Sea King (and am going to build it in this GB), not to mention the much newer Revell kit. I also pounced on a second-hand Airfix Puma going cheap, and likewise the Westland Whirlwind/Sikorsky S-19. The rivets on those old kits are quite pronounced, but a couple of layers of paint should reduce them to more realistic proportions.
  6. I use an Olfa circle cutter with the Type B board. The problem with them is the smaller diameters the Olfa only goes down to 1/8th of an inch radius 1/4 of an inch diameter and I haven't found one to cut smaller. So for the smaller diameters I move onto my punch and die sets.
  7. Nice. If you’re doing rattle cans I really like the Montana black range that I get form my local aft store. I finished my Bristol racer with one of the reds, not a million miles from your savoia.
  8. Thanks Steve, she's a Snow Bengal - and like most Bengals, is a handful! "A cross between a toddler and a puppy" is the best description I have read of the breed!
  9. Very nice, lovely aircraft and it looks great in that scheme. I almost went for it on my 1/32 version and seeing yours makes me want to get another one! Great modelling, well done.
  10. Hi, chaps! Thank you everybody. It has been pretty long since the last update. I was quite busy with my TKS project meanwhile, but since it's done now, I have had some time to continue with my StuG's. There's not a lot to show though, mostly some detailing on the engine deck - tow cables and spare road wheels at that. I managed to eliminate the most visible difference between two vehicles - Idler, which is originally 1mm smaller on Tamiya has been replaced with the one cloned from Dragon's Panzer III set. The cable holders and spare road wheels has been added to the engine deck. Few ammo boxes to stow on the vehicle has been assembled as well. Jerry cans and other stuff has been ordered and is on it's way. Thanks, Kristjan
  11. No doubt it will be deemed to signify some sort of ritual (archalogical speak for “we haven’t got a clue”)
  12. Re the gun heating question the small pipe coming from the back of the exhaust pipes runs down inside the cowling and along inside the 'D' section of the wing to the two outer brownings only (on both sides). The cannon bays were still heated from the back of the radiator. This info gleaned from Edgar and a number of other posts on here. I am surmising that the reason for this arrangement was the projected fitting of two cannons per bay and the need to heat these guns adequately. One thing I haven't been able to figure out is if the Mk I & II aircraft needed outer wing underside vents to extract the heat what happened to all the heat from the radiator and the exhausts? Regarding RAAF Mk Vc's they can be seen with and without the small pipe coming from the back of the exhaust so a photo of your intended victim is the only way to know for sure. HTH TRF
  13. I've discovered I'm missing the front circular fuselage bulkheads, but there are two others, for the middle and rear for support. I've filled the windows, and I'm about to remove this engine mounting point on the wings: This makes the engines hang lower than they should, to the point that they almost touch the ground.
  14. Ralph X72129 is Hannants own transfer sheet with 16, 18 20, 24, 30, 36 and 48 inch serials I am sure the larger one will supply big enough letters they are big enough to go under Canberra wings in 72th scale. Big H suggests they have over 50 in stock If you are having printer problems have you considered buying a red body colour decal sheet and cutting ribbons of the colour to make crosses? It is going to be worth all the hassle, the Wasp is becoming a little beast of beauty
  15. Thanks Ray_W - that's an excellent reference to the issue I'm talking about. I note the following in the second paragraph of your linked text: "In Battle of Britain era Mark 1 Spitfires, the freezing up of the .303 inch Browning machine guns at altitude had prompted a simple modification, by which hot air from the radiator was ducted into the wing cavity and then vented through an exit port on the underside of the outer wings. With the Mark VB’s introduction of the hyper-sensitive Hispano 20mm in 1941, this system had had to be supplemented by a second, heavier-duty heating system. Air was now heated at the exhaust manifold and thence ducted outboard through the wings to the cannons via a system of aluminium piping. This was known as Modification 314, applied part way through the Mark V production run.[2]" The word 'supplemented' in the second sentence explains why I am unsure. Does supplemented in this context mean 'in addition to' or does the writer mean 'alternative'? In a nutshell, I'm modelling a RAAF Mk Vc and want to know if I should add gun heating plumbing to the rear of the radiator duct. Thanks for your prompt replies.
  16. That is a masterclass build and I've enjoyed watching the progress.
  17. here it's called Quebec
  18. Nice music John,haven't listened to that in years...
  19. Coming together brilliantly. Modelling the air brakes open is easier than closed, but both ways will look great, just keep the faith, after all it’s the only way to get 1/48 Bucc . Looking forward to the next instalment.
  20. Ok, back to the Camel for bit. I admit I haven’t been particularly eager to get to this part of the build but the longer I put it off the harder it will be to get started. Before I looked into it a little deeper I suppose I had some vague notion that covering, say, a wing on one of these old timers was like slipping it in to a linen sheath and sewing up the open ends. Well not like that on this one. Panels are sewn together with what is called a “balloon” stitch which results in a raised bead like strip along the rib length. This is then covered with a strip of frayed rib tape. I used stretched spru and primer to simulate this effect on the empennage and now had to do the same on the wings, 28 times for each wing, and that’s just the top. I could have used a third hand on this job and experimented on a few ways that I might get it done reasonably quickly and neatly (read straight). This worked for me and after I had established a routine went pretty quickly. Masking tape was my third hand and I stuck the spru down at the leading edge, made sure it was tight along the pencil line and brushed on a little Tamiya extra thin. Not sure if I’ll do the wing bottom this way, might just do the tape effect.I’ll see how the tops go and then decide. Corrections and suggestions always welcome. http://www.johnsshawaviation.co.uk/wordpress/sopwith-camel-f1-2/sopwith-camel-reconstruction/covering/ Thanks for dropping in Dennis
  21. I'm planning on getting some paint on this later on after errands are done and child permitting. Can someone just check my working, please. I'm thinking spray highly diluted black first where the decals would show through the canvas, then a dark cote, mask the ribs, then a lighter cote of tan/canvas colour, remove tape from ribs, dust over with same light colour again. Does that sound right?
  22. In my opinion Steve one of the reasons the Fujimi kit is better than the new tool Airfix one IS the rivets, having seen more than a few Sea Kings up close and personal then you can't not notice the rivets, they are a very prominent feature of the real thing. If you want a CH-53 then I would again point you in the direction of the old tool Airfix one for the same reason, rivets, it has them the others don't. It is also a very nice build, I built 2 of them for one of the previous helicopter GB's and really liked them.
  23. How was the aircraft brought down in the first place?
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