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  2. Denford
    There's also an RAF version with two machines of 194 Squadron at Kuala Lumpur and one other. The first, an ex RN machine as shown by the 'different' lower rear fuselage, is wrongly coded. It should be VXZ960 The decal sheet has three roundels. Unless one is a spare for errors, it is redundant. Only Sycamores ever used them under the fuselage and then not always. Hannants code is LFPE77234 and some details are visible there. The kit looks to be a 'challenging' build eg with the main rotor blades butt joined to the rotor head.... If anyone wants a good insight of helicopter operations in Malaya (including S51 operations) I cannot recommend to highly 'The first Helicopter Boys' by David Taylor. The service record and fate of every S-51, S-55 and Sycamore is listed along with much, much more. It will also provide or be a guide to some missing data from the kit instructions: here I have some sympathy for LF Models in the Czech Republic as the specific data would have been hard to research. This book now provides some of the answers.
  3. Ron Pearcy
    Awesome detailing and build.
  4. tweeky
    I think you'll find a VC10 runs on Avtur, Avtag Jp4 and if you can get one on a carrier Avcat... Avgas is 5 star petrol. or was when I was refueling the Vc10 and Chippy's in Berlin.
  5. Scimitar F1
    Lots of inaccuracy there - looks nothing like a B-17! for the avoidance of doubt
  6. Kushan_Farsight
    Nothing ive seen in terms of an injection-molded kit yet. However......... there are models out there - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3989331 This thing looks like it could be a fun print! might have a try over the weekend!
  7. Back in the Saddle
    Good to see this one getting some more attention - it should look great when you’ve finished it. I’m liking your LTS attitude to the less important issues too!
  8. Tomas Enerdal
    Giorgio, Continuation of the fuel pump blisters onto the landing gear covers can be seen on the Norwegian MkXI, walk around here. (as can the front hood) Good luck! Tomas Enerdal
  9. Walter
    Very nice indeed
  10. andmarsh
    Have to say i was very happy with the way my Plastikote spray cans turned out!!
  11. MickE
    Great job, well done!
  12. Walter
    I keep coming back to this I like it so much
  13. Johnson
    Thanks Dennis, a good plan! Thanks Mr T. It's a good kit. I don't have the earlier ones but it's probably streets ahead in terms of surface detail. But not, as you may have read, without it's 'challenges' I pinched the float idea from the Hyperscale review! I've yet to research the colour, but I was thinking that a lighter blue was more likely. I have a wide range of paint to choose from, so I'll keep my options open, and then get it wrong! Having looked at the walkaround Pete sent me the link to, I completely agree. They appear to be slightly flattened or oval steel rods. I have some strip styrene that may just do the job. Cheers,
  14. Roger Newsome
    @Murdo @Jasper dog Thanks very much for the comments and apologies for the late reply, things have been a bit traumatic here recently but things are slowly getting back to normal. I'll post an update on what little has been going on modelling wise and a brief explanation later. Roger.
  15. Pedro1
    Great looking ISU-152 Roman! If you plan to build another one, you can maybe use the resin tracks for the KV-1/KV-2 from OKB Grigorov. Peter
  16. Walter
    Very nice and a night fighter to boot
  17. Mike

    Sandy finish

    Mike replied to Andy350's topic in Airbrushes

    That's a bit too generalised, if I may say so. There are a number of acrylic brands that will turn to rubbery goo when brought into contact with IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol/Isopropanol), as they're latex-based and entirely incompatible (Vallejo, Xtracrylix, LifeColor to name a few). The only thinner that seems to work with all acrylics that I've come across is Ultimate Thinners and Ultimate Airbrush Cleaner. They do contain a portion of IPA, but it is formulated not to cause the rubber goo syndrome. You need to get into a routine of cleaning your airbrush properly at the end of each session with an appropriate cleaning fluid to your paint, learn to backflush before each colour change within a session, and choose your paints wisely to suit your nozzle size and aspirations of how fine a line you want to airbrush. As some have already said, Humbrol acrylics have a bad rep for consistency and quality, and a very coarse (read cheap) pigment grind. Gunze have a good fine grind, and spray very well, as do Tamiya and a few other brands. If you use Mr Leveling Thinner (sic), you'll get a nice smooth and robust finish, but always spray closer to your model or in cooler conditions if you're getting orange peel or a gritty finish, as that's due to the paint drying on the way to the model. There's a lot of trial and error with getting your paint and airbrush working well together, but start off with a decent bit of kit and you'll have an easier time. I'd recommend Gunze airbrushes (very similar to Iwata), as they're awesome, well-priced and robust. Speak to Martin @ Air-craft.net (@Jetblast) if you need any advice, or peruse our review section as we've played with a few
  18. reini
    Thanks for the heads up! I will continue with the decaling on this coming weekend. Thanks all for the comments! - - - - - - - - KINETIC 1/48 F-104G STARFIGHTER Gluing the final parts in order to get this bird prepared for some primer. Also did the ejection seat: The Martin Baker Mk. Q7 ejection seat that replaced the older Lockheed C2 seat. Nice touch is that the kit actually comes with two different headrests - this 'narrow' one, and the little bit wider one that was used in the Italian machines. No Italian markings in this kit though - but it's quite telling that eventually there will probably be one. The older C2 seat also comes with the kit which is nice if you wanna do early version (kit decals are for mid-late '80s german planes though). Germany & Italy started modernizing the seats late '60's & early '70's. Not sure how it was for the other countries. I really like this Vallejo Plastic putty. I mean it's really bad at making seams disappear - but it's really good at filling gaps such as the wingroots or other things that you don't want to have a gaping hole, but you don't want to completely smooth out either. Easy thing is that you can just put it on, don't have to be particularly tidy, wait for it to harden a bit and then the excess comes off easily with a cotton bud and water. You don't lose details and the filler stays in the gap. Nice stuff for certain purposes - but not really as a general putty for really smoothing out seams. I prefer Tamiya stuff (dries up much harder and cleans off with alcohol if needed) or CA glue for those purposes. Just need to wipe off the surface with some alcohol to get all the dust & dirt off and glue on the clear parts - and we're ready for some primer. Wingtip tanks are not glued in yet - I think I will paint them separately. Paint scheme will be german NORM 62 - which I think is a great looking camo with it's sharp lines.
  19. markp
    Will you be attending HaMex 11 in Hanslope this Sunday? Looking for that elusive kit, accessory or book bargain? We might be able to help you. Valiant Wings will be exhibiting there. We use the event to clear kits, accessories and book ‘seconds’ stock. In particular we will have: A number of cover damaged book titles at just over 50% off RRP. Quickboost and Valiant Wings accessories to clear at 50% off marked prices. Eduard vinyl masks at 25p each, or any 10 for only £1! New and secondhand/classic kits at around £10 and under. These include some rare aircraft kits and Airfix Napoleonic soldier sets. If you are modelling in a budget, come and see us and pick up a few bargains. Plus the bacon rolls are very good. See you there. http://www.hamex.co.uk/
  20. spitfire started following Fairey Swordfish Mk. I (Trumpeter 1/32)
  21. spitfire
    That looks grand, you have made a fine job of it, rigging and all. Cheers Dennis
  22. Tomas Enerdal
    Ron, Several references ("The History", Morgan/Shacklady and Warpaint 72, Darling) mentions that the modification to Mk V cannon was introduced early in Seafire III production. No date or serial given, though. In a crown drawing of the Seafire III installation the Hispano Mk V is identified. This has recently been published on p.221 in Valiant Wings Airframe & Miniature No.12, Spitfire Part 1 (Merlin-powered). The fairing looks much shorter, could possibly be seen in pics of real a/c? (I haven't looked, yet)
  23. Mancunian airman
    That looks very neat in its castings . . .
  24. FrancisGL
    Looks nice, It looks great with those additions... Cheers Dan
  25. FrancisGL
    In fact, the quality is noticeable compared to other brands, cheaper and / or oldies, both in plastic, assembly and painting instructions. I also have an idea of how this kit ends, get an Mk5, because I also love its turret, and especially a detail, which I missed in this, the piece that is on top of the barrel, "super- cool "... Cheers Soeren
  26. Ratch

    Sandy finish

    Ratch replied to Andy350's topic in Airbrushes

    The sandy finish definitely sounds like a pigment issue and you probably won't overcome it by thinning. Try a different brand of paint. As for thinning ratios, forget them. What you should look for is consistency. I look for the consistency of milk. I find Vallejo Model Air will spray direct from the bottle without thinning and is my brand of choice. As for your airbrush, it is down to cleaning. Vallejo Acrylic Polyurethane Surface Primers can leave a congealed mess in your airbrush (regardless of make). I flush with water then Vallejo 71.199 Airbrush Cleaner. If this doesn't do the trick its a strip-down job and out with SprayCraft aerosol Airbrush Cleaner. I have an Iwata HPCplus and a cheap Expo AB900 and my cleaning routine works with both. HTH
  27. DalekCheese
    Mmmm, agrax. Tasty. Models looking lovely.
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