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  2. Hello Brian I do think that you've got an eczema, most likely due to a vinyl allergy. I recommend you (I'm physician) that you use nitrile gloves over cotton gloves
  3. My goodness...absolutely beautiful work. Amazing work on the figures to get them all in such lifelike poses. A work of art!! Cheers...Rich
  4. In case you still want a Rolls A330, Druz144 has beautiful Trent engines in resin, they are highly accurate and build beautifully. But of course, they come at grossly 2/3 of the price of the A330 kit.
  5. Completely agree. I really like the way they can add to an aircraft build. As an example the 1:48 'Airfield Fuel Truck' and its' two figures enabled me to try to recreate a WW2 image I'd seen of refuelling a P-47:
  6. That cockpit looks fantastic, Patrice. Coming together very nicely indeed. How would you compare it to the Tamiya kits?
  7. Hi, We never heard another word from Creative about what was or wasn't going on after we tried to contact Glenn there after we received a lot of complaints about Creative taking peoples' money and delivering nothing. I am aware that they routinely sold what they didn't have, taking customers' money, ordering from us often many months later and, sadly, blaming us for the length of time he held peoples' money and didn't deliver produce to them. That irks me a lot, I'll be honest. I am also aware that Creative's stock has been sold off. Colourcoats stock remaining in Australia was bought by a new startup called Model Revival Australia. They're going through the long process of stock taking and building websites etc. There has been contact between us but we don't have any open orders. I think realistically they'll need to generate cash before committing to large expenditures. In the mean time my wife and I have taken a break from the business for personal reasons - our professional circumstances and time commitments are somewhat different now compared to 10 years ago when WEM went bust, and we are pondering what best to do with this little business. Nothing is decided yet, other than that we agree the status quo is too big a burden.
  8. studying pics of both they are almost identical, from the scuttle back, door shape may vary but the basic structure seems the same, who could tell the difference in a model unless they owned both tbh.
  9. There are pics from the kit: https://ipmsdeutschland.de/wordpress/2024/05/12/ch-airbus-a330-300-lufthansa-new-livery/
  10. That looks very nice! 2.5 - after placing the decal and letting it sit for a minute or two, press it down with a damp cotton bud or damp kitchen paper to squeeze out the air and remaining liquid. 2.75 - apply one more light coat of MMS Totally agree, me too.
  11. Very nice Spit my friend. I like that gray/green color combination. Very nice work. Cheers...Rich
  12. Thanks @providence. I may try to do that, but out of my winter wheat stock as they are natural dried out grasses. May have to wait till fall to add them on.
  13. A baboon who knows his aeroplanes! 🤣
  14. Thank you kindly, but I’m not sure I agree with the second part of your statement!
  15. Another really neat build. Looking forward to see paint go on.
  16. I’ll be using the kit decals and I’ll be following @mark.au and @Gary C’s recipe for Tamiya decals mark.au: 1. Hot water 2. MrMark Setting Solution 3. Leave to set Gary 😄 The best way to get all Japanese decals (Fujimi, Hasegawa, Tamiya etc)to work as they're supposed to is use hot water and the correct setting solutions. You'll need a bottle each of Gunze Mr Setter and Mr Softer. Micro sol and others won't work as they're formulated differently. Do not use Gunze on Microscale or Cartograf decals as it will chew right through them. Dip the decal in hot water, it doesn't need to be boiling but it does need to be fairly hot. The temperature of a drinkable tea will do. The glue is heat activated and is what makes up most of the thickness. If you dip it in cold water you'll spend the rest of the day waiting and cursing. Lay down some Mr Setter, this is in the blue bottle. It acts as an additional glue. Slide the decal onto it and into position and leave it alone. The decal should wrinkle a little. Give it 10 mins or so and go over the decal with a brush with a little Mr Softer (green bottle) on it. Use sparingly as it is extremely hot. Too much and it will damage the paint, especially the weaker acrylics. The decal will now wrinkle a lot. Do not touch it as it is almost liquified at this point. Once it is dry it will have smoothed out and will lay down beautifully over just about any raised or recessed detail you care to think of. Used properly it is probably the best conforming decal process in the industry. Used incorrectly and you'll be just another guy complaining about crap Japanese decals. As there are no large underside decals I gave the fuselage and wings a couple of coats of AK intermediate gauzy agent, lightly sanded/polished between coats. Both the roundels and aircraft letters come in two parts, first the “base” fuselage and wing roundels and the base/yellow aircraft letters… …after waiting overnight the bullseyes were added… …and the black letters. Well Mark & Gary’s recipe worked better than any of my previous attempts, I still prefer painting the markings however I think I now have the tools to get reasonable results from Tamiya, or similar, decals if I have to use them. My thanks to both Mark and @2996 Victor, who gave me the link to Gary’s detailed recipe. Next I’ll be protecting the decals with a coat of varnish and starting on the weathering. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  17. Okay thanks, I'll get the new Revell A340 instead for my next model.
  18. A really nice clean basis for paint there.
  19. A wise decision and much like me, actually. I have declared the Ecuadorean Kfir but actually I might go with a build of the Eduard F-51D in FAU marks. I had hoped to do that, using a Tamiya kit, for the Mustang STGB but ran out of time ;( Martin
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