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About Redcoat2966

  • Birthday 08/02/1966

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  • Location
    East Midlands
  • Interests
    AFV’s, military history.

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  1. Thanks everyone for all the positive comments, really appreciate it. Managed to bring to an end to all the PE -apart from some clamps at the rear that had to have a rethink - but all in all the PE is done. All the weld beads are done too., spent quite some time on those.....still one or two here and there to complete (side skirt brackets on one side)......I feel I've spent the hours that in reality was needed to build one. I understand from reading it took 250,000 man hours and 2 weeks to build one of the these in the factory..... The fuel tank breather tubes took some doing....but came out alright I think in the end..... Well that's it for tonight chaps....next update it will be primed and ready for painting. Nite all. Simon.
  2. Thanks chaps for that.....wish I could have had the time to post more of the steps to this stage. Just finished some more PE detail last night and the scratch building of the vapour breather tubes for the fuel tanks..... As regards the texture Vytautas, I used Mr Surfacer 500 with an old brush, then sanding back with very fine wet and dry paper (maybe 800 grit). For that I built a little sanding pad on some old styrene sheet and twin sticked the wet and dry; about 15mm square, as it has to be perfectly flat to get the rolled steel look of some of the big tanks. In my opinion you have to do it a little more pronounced as after priming and painting then weathering it will be subdued. Regards Simon.
  3. Well here's an update so far in the project. Sorry for the delay, just small slots of time to push on. All of the hooks for the spare tracks are on and the weld beads done with all the others at that time. I've just added some more other PE detail like the rain guards on the sight's, so will be in the welding business again tonight if I have some. Wing nuts added to air vent ......... Added the grills to the vents and then popped on the armour covers......most of the tools and cables will be missing on the final. I might throw a could on the rear deck, see how that looks. Anyway off to get some welding done...... nite all...
  4. Thanks Steve, appreciate that. Really cleared up the question. Must have been proof of the super accurate production standards in the factory.......make sure the rounds were central to the hole in the mantlet. Thanks again......
  5. No problem mate, learning all the way. I do have a question for the more learned of the team who might have better research material..........is this I take it a coaxial MG, or a representation of one. The kit makes no allocation for one. Anyone got a pic of actually what it looked like in reality, if it is an MG. The Takom full interior has a co-axial, but nothing visible protruding.....is this correct?....just wanted to check before I go so far that I can't adjust. Cheers Simon.
  6. Thanks Gents.........and yes Stef, I switched away from Aber and Eduard and mostly go for Voyager and Griffon now. I find them overall better and more comprehensive. As regards the KT, here is where it stands at present prior to weld beads which I am working on at present on the turret. Should be able to pop up some pics later in the week on that stage. Anyway, off out for the day. Cheers all...
  7. Afternoon all. Finally found some time to start a new thread. Been a bit in a rut recently with many ongoing projects and hit a brick wall on a few so decided a nice simple build is in order to get back on track. Decided on a King Tiger (my first) from the stash. I chose this one as on the whole they seem to have minimal detail really, even with the PE upgrade set. Based on some research, many had little left of detail by wars end like fenders and side mudguards etc.....so going that route. Here's the kit itself..... The kit has the option to build a type with a larger gun and night vision that was never actually built......not realy one for "paper panzers" myself, so stuck with the 88mm version. Now here's an interesting point. The 88mm barrel in the kit has a larger diameter that the Voyager one in the PE upgrade set. Curious..............so thinking Voyager is more accurate, it'll be the metal upgrade one to use. Here's the PE set I went with. It's for the Tamiya/Dragon KT's....but can't imagine the Takom being that much different. And of course my favourite track upgrade option, R-Model. Can't fault these, so easy to throw together....all complete in under an hour, both sides. As you can see, the set comes with new drive wheels as in fact later KT's had more teeth and the tracks had no non guide horn links. Later models had a guide tooth on all links. I can't imagine it's too much of a stretch to say by war's end with lack of supply of parts to switch back to the earlier drive wheels and tracks.....so that's where I'm going with this one. I ploughed into the build late last week and it flew by, so haven't got many early build pics. So intend to post where I am tomorrow as I've just finished the re-texturing of the armour. Overall, there's isn't much to a KT build, very simple so a speedy build so far. Anyway, that's all for now. Cheers Simon.
  8. Very impressive so far Vincent, very impressive indeed. I will try and follow along to give me some motivation to tackle one of the Tigers I have in the stash. Regards Simon.
  9. cheers John, appreciate that . Had to pack up the modelling area, guests coming in for Xmas, so not back on it until the New Year…..bit of a bummer regards Simon
  10. Really nice job on that Sherman. Very well executed weathering, and just to the right amount. Well done... Regards Redcoat
  11. I might change primer myself anyway once the Vellejo finished and switch to a spirit based one.......not sure which one yet.
  12. Yeah, I've heard of Stynylrez, it's a thinners based primer ( I think) like the one shot you mention. No different to what you use on a car I belive. As regards the Vallejo un-thinned.....that's a big no-no. They do say in the description on the label you can use straight from the bottle, but I do a 75/25 thinned mix....75 being the thinner.....better to do 5 to 6 coats very thin, than one shot from the bottle. It ends up feeling like sand paper if not thinned, as it starts drying once it leaves the gun in mod air......As regards the sanding of it once dry. I've to date not had an issue. I think it's because I put very thin coats on and with 1000 grit with water it can be sanded if I see a surface imperfection from the build. Never had to sand my Vallejo because of a rough finish, due to the well thinned multiple coats. More thinner, gives it time to settle before drying.
  13. Not sure why you have to be able to sand it..........what mix ratio do you do when priming?
  14. Yeah mate, never had a problem before, but the 400 mixed well with Vallejo so gave it a try.....have to go back to Tamiya thinner.......luckily I have a back up brush until the bits arrive. Redcoat
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