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Christer A

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About Christer A

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  • Birthday 09/05/1975

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    Varberg, Sweden

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  1. A flawless XIV, absolutely brilliant paint finish. Those streaks on the bottom looks very convincing too! Wait what? AK real colors are Tamiya/Gunze compatible?!? And here I though they were more to the MrPaint formula with laquer and not the more friendly tamiya-mix. I was just trying to convert to Mission Models....
  2. MW-1 is high up on many peoples lists, including mine! I'm slowly on my spare time working with the 1/72 now, after that it's full speed ahead with 1/48. This is the 1/1 version Off course it needs to be simplified for when scaling it down. Follow the work over here
  3. Thanks Paul! It's been a somewhat busy week but I have managed to paint a lot! I did toy with the idea of using the Mission Models primer, but since I didn't have any luck with it for the first test, I decided to stick with my trusty UMP black primer. Lovely stuff! So after the whole kit had been primed I made a small batch of MM Sky for the tail band. This was then covered with MM gloss coat since I expect that this masking tape will used for quite some time. This two paint sessions went absolutely flawless and I was more than happy. Then I began on the underside... Mission Medium Sea Grey was used, together with few drops of Poly and MM Thinner, and off I went. But something was way out of character this time. The paint clogged the nozzle constantly and I had to use a cotton bud to keep it clean every few seconds. It felt like Xtracrylix on a real bad day and very far from my earlier experiences. The interesting part is once the paint actually hit the model it was a little bit better, even though I had what felt like enormous spidering problems and splutter, but in hte end I got a finish that was a bit decent. The self leveling properties are really good, especially considering the family friendliness! I shot another coat of gloss on it and let it harden in the sun for most of a day. I like to cover the paint with clear nowadays, since I discovered that I'll have close to zero issues with tape residue when doing so. After a "lagom" long masking session (yeah, it was lagom! It's not a splinter scheme for a Viggen) I started to prepare some Ocean Grey for the topside. But while doing the marble coat the paint was behaving as badly as before. What in the blazes was I doing wrong this time? I couldn't figure it out until I had a look in the mixing cup. This can't be right! It looks like when you fail to do a sauce! After a chat with a bit more knowledgeable persons on social media (yeah I've got Instragram too....) I started to gain the insight that maybe this miracle paint is a bit sensitive to sunlight and heat? Especially the Poly. I might've forgotten the thinner in the spray booth and since that is located on the balcony and during summertime the greenhouse effect is strong there so it's not impossible at all that the thinner have been subjected to high temperatures and UV-light. Well, I didn't have any extra of that stuff but I did have a large bottle of thinner that was unopened, so let's grab that and have another go. This time the result in the cup looked as it should when using only thinner! A few drops of Poly didn't change that either, so I started to paint. This time it behaved like one expect a paint to do. Almost no needle buildup and good control. Finally! I think I need to go back on this layer a bit though since I want a bit more faded look, or I just darken the rudder a bit and cheat like that. So to conclude: Do not leave your Mission Models paints, thinners or poly out in the sun! If you do, then you're in trouble, but the paint itself will try it's best to save you from this mistake!
  4. Thanks for the input anyway Bill! I've been trying for the last ten years or so to get this weathering lark to look good, but progress is slow and I'm usually a bit afraid to muck up a good paintjob. This time I will try to be a bit more brave! Actually, I went back and misted another Buff coat , with more streaking. It was a bit too much but I went and rubbed it a but with a piece of cloth and that knocked it down a bit. I plan to do a lot of mucking it up during the upcoming weekend!
  5. Just in time for Nordic GB II, but what and who are Jetmads?
  6. That is one VERY shiny finish! The craftmanship displayed here is something to strive for.
  7. I was thinking about the PE hooks, 2x PE7 that is added later on, but you answered it anyway. I was going to add them before primer, but I see now that it would be a mess trying to mask the stripes with those hooks in place. Silly me. By the way, is there any chance that this A/C flew with stripes on top of the wings? It was in service before June 6.
  8. Crep Paramatric is really not for personal use. When I first started to use it, and also seeing it demoed live one needed a beefy Unix machine, or preferably a Silicon Graphics workstation of some sort. As you can guess, this was in the mid 90:s.. I have no idea on what one year license for a private user would cost, but they have reduced the price by atleast 75% to be able to compete with the Autodesk Inventor or Solidworks. Still, that one year licence is around 5000£ per year + extra £ if you want support and upgrades. I haven't really though about making the STL:s available. I'm toying with the idea of selling them myself, or to some cottage industry like Freightdog or similar. Meanwhile, I've adapted the first in scale version, the 1/144:
  9. Very nicely painted Paul! I see that you (as me) haven't added the hooks for the belly fuel tank. Any other reason for it except that those are fiddly to get in place properly?
  10. Thanks! The only thing bothering me now is what IS actually front and back? I might've put the square connectors in the wrong places...
  11. Thanks! I've got requests for all four scales so....but the 1/48 will get the most attention to detail because that's what I need for my (scary and to be filled to the wing gloves with resin) Revell ! The reason for start with 1/144 is that we do not need to make any holes for draining when printing it. The other ones needs to be hollow in some way, so the nest step is to find out how to split them for better assembly.
  12. Good morning! I've moved the rear "connector square" or whatever it is to a further rear position. Is that better? I have nothing to go on really, except for the perspective pictures... I've also made the tail and nose pieces: What's the verdict? Should I hit print on the 1/144 version ?
  13. You're absolutely correct. That square is placed at a different spot on the rear segment. Ok, that can be fixed
  14. Wow, that's for sure a very detailed book on late Luftwaffe Tonkas! I need some references for whenever I start to build one. Regarding the pod itself, I had an idea that sort of led to a slight remodelling of the entire thing, but that the life in CAD! I thought it was a great idea to actually split the pods into it's four segments, and also cut off the nose and tail pieces. Looking at the pictures more closely, I'm not quite sure that the front and rear tube arrangement is the same, it's just mated to a different nose/tail piece. Thinking like that, one can get away with just modelling one quarter of the pod and then mirror it a couple of times to the correct look. It was also time to add some rivets/fasteners, bomb shackles and so on. After spending the entire day yesterday just chipping away at the pixels I arrived here: Now I just need to to the nose and tail pieces (that should not be identical) and then the 1/1 version is done! Then it needs to be scaled to the target scales and adapted for printing. I'm quite sure most details will be lost in 1/144...
  15. Thanks. It's a lingering variant for sure, but a slightly clogged nose is not that bad, considering. Yeah, it seems likely that this paint seems to be the trouble. I don't have any of the other metallic paints so I cannot verify what you say though. The cockpit was finished, weathered and flat coated. Except for the seat, all was painted with MM, using brush mostly. The washes that I used worked perfectly on top of the MM gloss clear. Ok, now I really want to paint, but before that I must slap it all together. Well, since this is my fourth Eduard Spit it wasn't too hard or complicated. Then I rummaged around in the AM cupboard to see if I could find the secret weapon for this kit: Ah yes, the Ultracast resin cowl! Drop fit, easy to clean up and it's Unique Selling Point over the Barracuda cowl is the resin pour lug. It's located on the front instead of the rear as with Barracuda, so this time I didn't goof up like I did with the Barracuda cowl on my Velveta Spit. Right. I wonder if everything has set now, so that one can do the first round of sanding and filling?
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