Casey

Branded modeller equivalents are quite often repackaged stuff sold with insane margin. Examples: Vallejo Retarder, 17ml: 10$ Golden Fluid Retarder, 237ml: 20.50$ I checked, both work exactly same. Modeller paints: Vallejo Model Color: 3.12$/bottle (25 for 8 bottles) 17ml each = 0.18$/ml Liquitex Basic Fluid: 6.68$ per bottle (80.24$ per 12). 118ml each (1.4 liter of paint...) = 0.05$/ml I can make quite decent matches with just those 12... Weathering: Tamiya Weathering Set: 44$ My 3 color eyebrow powder kit: 8$.

While they have similar properties, they are not the same I do not have SDS'es in front of me but generally they have different functions: 71.262: Flow Improver is a mix of thinner and retarder and probably something to help with paint leveling, used to thin paints to flow better and dry slower. You can use it to thin your paint, but you cant add too much. 70.524: Medium thinner - considering the description, this is very different thing, it contains acrylic medium so you can use it to thin paints to any ratio without paint stopping being a paint. 70.597: This is very concentrated retarder. You should never thin a paint with it, it is just additive. You get more than one because you usually make your own mixture that fits your own needs For example, I use the following mixture for my own needs: 70% Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver 30% Vallejo Airbrush Thinner Then once you mix those, add 10% of the total volume of Vallejo Retarder. The mixture above is my go-to for spraying Vallejo Air, with 5 parts paint to 6 parts mixture.

I remember Dark Tone Wash from Army Painter being good option too if you cant find old Nuln

I did, I have this cutter for a while. I need to use cmyk layer on top of it instead of being able to put proper mixed colors on it like I could with silkscreen. But maybe I could use engraving feature to make details like cockpit. I use Silhouette extensively for making masks though

Mars was giving me some headaches. I do have X1C which is different tech, and this one is basically 'press button to print'. Maybe this company will make a resin printer one day... but so far they went to laser engraving. I do not have the laser version but if I ever get one, I will for sure test it out with silkscreen design. Maybe that could make a good homemade white decals problem solved. (very similar way to xTool Screen Printer)

Great job!! Have you had a chance to compare them to Snyder&Short chips? I am asking because I have them as a possible reference for me.

As Troy said, Vallejo needs a bit more time to get cured. Acrylic paint starts curing the moment it is dry, but it takes even up to a week, depending on the environment. But here is a thing - Acrylic paints do not "stick" to the surface, if the surface is an edge or is very smooth, they are more forming a "glove". If you want them to stick, use a matt primer - they offer rough surface where paint can latch on. Acrylic paint, before it cures is fully possible to be handled but you need to be gentle.

I have much better. I've got not only spectra data of all their paints but I also did the full characterization work on each of them. With hundreds of samples of those paints, I now have data to calculate precise mixes of any of their paints combination. The set itself is clearly made for mixing, someone with solid color theory knowledge designed it, especially with the addition the otherwise useless clear colors.

I've moved those mixes plus few more to the new thread. Thank you!

The colors according to to Snyder and Shorts are: Tamiya Acrylics, by volume: Sea Blue 5-N: 1 parts XF-04 - Yellow Green 2 parts XF-08 - Flat Blue DE00: 0.61 Or alternatively: 1 parts XF-08 - Flat Blue 1 parts XF-17 - Sea Blue 1 parts XF-53 - Neutral Grey DE00: 1.56 Or even more alternatively: 2 parts XF-08 - Flat Blue 1 parts XF-13 - J.A. Green 1 parts XF-22 - RLM Grey DE00: 0.41 Sea Blue 5-S (A) 2 parts XF-08 - Flat Blue 2 parts XF-23 - Light Blue 1 parts XF-60 - Dark Yellow DE00: 2.02 Sea Blue 5-S (B) 3 parts XF-08 - Flat Blue 3 parts XF-15 - Flat Flesh 2 parts XF-18 - Medium Blue 1 parts XF-23 - Light Blue DE00: 0.81 Sea Blue 5-S (C) I could not mix with XF1-XF60. You will need to wait for me having more paints data for that. Alternatively if you are willing to try other paint ranges that have more pigments variety: ICM paints, by volume: Sea Blue 5-N: 3 parts ICM-1005 - Deep Purple 1 parts ICM-1069 - Extra Dark Green 1 parts ICM-1075 - Grey Blue 1 parts ICM-1077 - Dark Blue DE00: 0.88 Sea Blue 5-S (A): 1 parts ICM-1005 - Deep Purple 1 parts ICM-1010 - Deep Blue 2 parts ICM-1036 - Neutral Grey DE00: 0.49 Sea Blue 5-S (B): 1 parts ICM-1010 - Deep Blue 2 parts ICM-1040 - Beige 1 parts ICM-1046 - Blood Red DE00: 0.30 Sea Blue 5-S (C): 1 parts ICM-1005 - Deep Purple 1 parts ICM-1010 - Deep Blue 1 parts ICM-1035 - Grey-Green 1 parts ICM-1056 - Light Earth DE00: 0.53

I could. If you want a Snyder&Shorts colors, you can simply use: 1 parts XF-04 - Yellow Green 2 parts XF-08 - Flat Blue Parts by volume. Or alternatively: 1 parts XF-08 - Flat Blue 1 parts XF-17 - Sea Blue 1 parts XF-53 - Neutral Grey

That is what I thought too, I read your materials before and I remember the problem with colors described in Snyder publication (I think it was about wrong LRV values if I remember right). Not having the composition of paint makes it much harder. I *can* make visual match to any of those 5-S'es from the Snyder's chart though...

It is hard to say without spectrophotometer, on RGB screen they look spot on, but as you probably noticed, reality does not match RGB I'd wait for the answer from the forums, they could give the paint if we are lucky.

This looks very close! Good job!

If they are accurate, I do have those three versions of 5-S chips from Snyder chips.