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The tissue paper sheets I made earlier are now in place, along with some retaining straps made from lead foil with etched buckles. Looking at period photos, stowage on the running boards looks to have been strapped down by running the straps under the boards, so I've replicated that here. For the rear stowage bins, it looks from photos that the crew would run the straps under the bin lids to secure anything sitting on top of them. If I'd had a bit more foresight when rebuilding the bins, I'd have left the lids separate so I could run the straps underneath them. As it is, I've had to just cut the straps at the bottom of the lid. I'm not sure it conveys the correct effect very well, but it'll have to suffice. I've also added a length of rope to the front of the chassis, although I'm not sure about that at the moment and it may go before the end. So this is how it's looking at the moment, sans turret here, although that's had the guns fitted and is essentially finished. The only other stowage I'll be adding are a couple of jerry cans with white water crosses, and a couple of P.O.W. cans which might be marked as water or water - not decided yet. Andy
Gorby's Leap into the Dark Unknown - Scratch-Building Extravaganza (no refunds) – NOW WITH ADDED SLEEPERSERVICE!
Gorby replied to Gorby's topic in Work in Progress - ArmourWhat's that cat shaped thing!? It wouldn't be a by any chance. I don't know, I only handed the thread over yesterday and it's already going to the dogs I mean cats. If I can ,do it you definitely can. Nice jig by the way. I had to ditch Blue Tak in the end. She was getting too clingy.
Hey there. Started on weathering the hull. My idea was to start with some dust. But this time not washing and rinsing but splashes with an old toothbrush. I bought Vallejo European splashes mud. A glossy brown resin. Was too dark and glossy. But some pure white pigment helped for a matt light Base. Layered with some darker pigment helps with a more diverse look.
Started the second 1/16 Panther G. Haven't finished the Rye Field Jagdpanther G2 or the cut away Panther G or even the Takom Jagdpanther G1 but I needed a break from 1/35 scale, especially the crazy detail Rye Field kits. This one will be in a white wash scheme I think and I'm debating on whether to try cutting the hull and turret open like the Rye Field Panther G or cutting the upper deck of the hull open or just leaving it alone and making the entire upper hull removable. So far I have made some cooling ducts for the steering brakes out of tubing and blocked off the right rear shock absorber as this will be a hybrid with the later chin mantlet. I don't have the heater assembly for the rear deck or any steel wheels so I can replace a pair of those so it will have to be a later Early Panther G. Here it is so far.
SoftScience replied to Basuroy's topic in Ready for Inspection - ArmourReally nice composition, and bonus points for building a representative from a history not that often modelled in the west.
@robw_uk that looks very effective, multi colour shading, higher contrast looks wrong but works very well , I think Simon will agree where most fall down on this kind of pre painting is not having the nearly full translucency of the top colour paint, this is where enamels and lacquer paints beat water thinned acrylics into a cocked hat, regarding camo's and multi colours, why let the pre paint coat matter, I think some would paint a temperate sea scheme for example by spraying the edsg first all over (using the edsg as almost a second undercoat ) then masking, and painting the green, I reckon to get the best from this method would be very thin, freehand, (or masking if you really want to) , individual colours at first, only masking later for a more crisper line, but still thin, ( only my thinking, and more of a theory ) I'm going to try this very method on my king tiger in the up coming gb. , sorry again simon Glynn
So, weathering and a bit of chipping. Starting to come along now. I'd really like to dirty up the engine deck a bit. Any suggestions (to simulate dirt, oil etc.) gratefully received Happy modelling!!!
Carius replied to Army_Air_Force's topic in Work in Progress - ArmourExcellent job indeed....your daughter has a lot of skill
Harry Callahan replied to Harry Callahan's topic in Ready for Inspection - ArmourHi Terry impressive story, I would really like to know what happened to the project.
Mike Starmer replied to Troy Smith's topic in WWIIFor Dieppe SCC.2 brown overall same for the Tunisian tank. Since I wrote that about the KIngforce Churchills, more information a has come to light. These 6 tanks were all re-worked in UK and prepainted Light Stone 61 before dispatched to Egypt. Look at the light colour inside the suspension and springs which indicates spaying before fitting track rather than a fast brush over by troops later. The pattern on all of these tanks is similar and based on that for the Crusader being of basically similar layout, i.e. turret on hull, no side surfaces above tracks. The dark colour as anecdotal reports is a dark red-brown, not as artwork of green or black. The bridgelayers were all converted in 1943 so all SCC.2 brown. At D-day they were probably all that colour,later conversions and major repairs would be SCC.15 Olive Drab.
The image shows an early three seater C8 2 pdr portee of 47th Inf. Div. the 'bow bells' emblem can just be discerned on the left mudguard. It is finished according to MTP.20 , basic Khaki Green 3 with either Dark Green 4 or Dark Tarmac 4 stripes. This is a 1940-42 scheme. The kit model is the later four seater finished according to MTP.46/4A scheme. The kit diagram is not quite right in layout. All of the surfaces as seen from directly above should be the darker colour. These include the bonnet top and front mudguards too. As for colours, you have some choices. In 1943 the basic colour will be SCC.2 brown with SCC.1A dark brown patterning and tops. The canvas sides were dyed brown, shades lighter than SCC.2. Alternatively SCC.14 black could be the patterning after October 1943. Either scheme would have been used in France during 1944. If the vehicle were a repaint, then SCC.15 Olive Drab basic but you could still have the canvas areas brown as they were earlier or overpainted with bituminious emulsion SCC.15 slightly lighter than the paint and you can still have black patterning as before. Stars were only applied from about March 1944. The 17pdr could be either SCC.2 or SCC.15 overall. The jeeps were often left US Olive Drab No.9 with patterning of either SCC.1A or SCC.14 black. But as before the whole top would be dark as would the entire bonnet and top mudguards. Matchbox copied a restored vehicle for this, and they are not known as reliable references.
Carius replied to Carius's topic in Work in Progress - ArmourHello folks, new progress with this paused project. Well, I scratchbuild the rear air brakes, side mirrors and I added the antenna mount and the others two headlights housings. Now it is ready for painting... The rear air brakes...
With the Academy kits available in plentiful numbers at less than the Academy RRP I suspect the Airfix kits will also become heavily discounted after a few months. The Airfix Brand will bolster sales as it still carries some kudos (whether the entire brand warrants it or not) in the domestic UK market. I agree with the previous posters who have suggested that this move from Airfix is both logical and aimed at the casual modeller. I am no expert on AFV modelling but as someone who sells a range of armour kits I see the market and know that, in general, if someone picks up a Takom or Rye Field kit first they are very unlikely to then pick up an Academy or similarly priced product because 9 times out of 10 these are the experts that know their stuff. On the other hand someone who is showing interest in Academy Tiger kits is generally not going to then purchase a 'high end' Tiger kit for example. A generalisation for sure but one that does tend to hold good on most occasions. I see Academy as very much in the 'entry level' position along with Revell etc, Airfix will slot in here with MENG, for example, bridging the gap between the 'entry level' and the advanced/hardcore Armour builders choice of Brands above them. The Market caters for all abilities and Airfix want a piece of the 1/35 scale pie without the risk involved in developing their own line. Duncan B
spaddad replied to markmcguire25's topic in Ready for Inspection - Armourorsum
- Last week
I am looking for the most up to date accurate color for U.S. armour desert tan specifically on the M1235A1 or M1224 MRAP so many desert colors in various paint lines. Model Masters has a "US Gulf Armor Sand" would that work? I was wondering if the same color used in the Gulf war is the same color they are painting armor in Syria?
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