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About RJP

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    Central Canada
  • Interests
    WWII in the air. Excavating the stash.

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  1. I don't use expensive sprue cutters, a cheapie flea market wire nipper does just fine for the first cut. The key is to use a really sharp blade for the finish cut. I still use a safety razor blade for that. Yes, you can still get them in drug stores though I haven't let one near my face for probably 30 years. They are cheap and flexible and don't require a handle. They make extremely smooth cuts and will not leave nubs so there's no need to sand or file anything to finish up.
  2. The white leading edge can be hard to see in pictures and was often not present in pictures that are clear enough to be sure about it. However, it is there in some photographs. The drawing is labelled very specifically, "2 inch wide white leading edge narrows to 1 inch wide at half span". I'd do it.
  3. The reference to monofilament thread for rigging sent me back into my files. I have found Alan W Hall's June 1965 Airfix Magazine article "A Change of Hart" in which he converts the Airfix Hart into a Hector. It contains the single line "Add bracing wires made from fine nylon thread." Maybe he meant the same thing? He seems to have been on the same path and it stopped me raiding Mum's sewing cabinet for black cotton. The Hall articles were aimed at beginners - ie, me - and were also very useful in nudging my thinking in the right direction.
  4. He always had good reason to look serious but he is also alleged to have had a sense of humour. The story went round that he sent Churchill a cable after they had finally beaten the Italians, "We have finished the job. What shall we do with the tools?" A tip of the hat to those who understand the reference!
  5. Well, that's confusing, two threads running the same information at the same time. Most of the original of this note repeats what Mike posted a couple of hours ago on the other thread so I've deleted that bit and refer others to what he already said. Great minds, etc, etc! Iliad Decals feature the same machine 43-15672 on its sheet: http://www.iliad-design.com/decals/Airlift.html They show the underside as grey. But I have to wonder if the replacement wings were OD above and below. If that’s the case, it must have been quite a sight with its old
  6. The Medium Green splotching could survive even into the postwar period, with ever-increasing contrast between the original OD and the medium green. There are photographs on the 'net of a rescue C-47 of ARS DET6 over Marin County California in 1948. The serial number is a late one, 45-1012, and the machine features the original OD with Medium Green splotches and has the new United States Air Force titles in black over fresh yellow search aircraft bands. Cocardes with the postwar red stripe, yellow code letters on the fuselage and underwing. The cowlings are natural metal and the
  7. I'm looking forward to your take on the Norseman, always a firm favourite.
  8. Me too, hired a guy to do the bathroom and legged it until he was done. Worked a treat. I have since done the rest of the house myself including a kitchen gut and rebuild and still wouldn't try a bathtub installation myself. Way too fraught.
  9. It depends on the finish you want to achieve. If it's a porous-looking surface you want, give it a try. You might get away with a spray because the paint will be nearly dry when it hits the surface but that seems to leave a lot to chance. For something smoother, or shinier, why not a basic primer? In any case, a primer will ensure a uniform surface to work on. I just finished renovating my house, including patching many small dings in plaster walls and sheets of new drywall whose joints had to be mudded. In all cases, a coat of primer was necessary to achieve an invisible patc
  10. RJP

    ICM kits

    The ICM Stearman certainly looks like a winner. It comes in two flavours, the PT-17 and PT-13 so both Continental and Lycoming versions are available.
  11. This suggestion won't help the present situation of course but a tip or two for next time: Make sure the underlying surface is really smooth before applying the tape. That eliminates gaps. Burnish the masking down with a flat hard tool like the edge of a wooden spoon. After masking apply a coat of the underlying colour. It will seal the edge and be invisible because there is no colour change. Then apply the second colour. Pray.
  12. Some details on 'Ropey': Ropey was KB772, a Mk. X, and did 66 trips with 419 Squadron. I believe the shark mouth markings were applied for the trip home. There are several photographs on the 'net taken at Yarmouth Nova Scotia after the return. If you google KB772 for images you will see an RCAF pattern hangar in the background. The trip home must have come as an enormous relief and high spirits seem to have resulted in a proliferation of non-standard markings. Somewhere there ia a picture of a machine outbound for Canada with what amounted to Type C round
  13. With all those fixes, changes and refinements it looks like more fun than the average kit. Have you estimated the time it will take, beginning to end? I'm not sure I'd be too confident trying one that big without a dedicated workshop and a door with a lock on it.
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