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About RJP

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    Central Canada
  • Interests
    WWII in the air. Excavating the stash.

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  1. I am curious about surface detail on the Matchbox kit. The fabric presentation over the lattice is always hard for manufacturers. I have looked for a review - no luck - but seem to recall it was well regarded at the time.
  2. I haven't got the kit or the instructions but it certainly sounds like the rad exit flap. If it's anything like you'd see on other RAF types, it's a solid piece of sheet metal and the four depressions would likely be strengthening. If you look inside (ie forward) all you'd see is the radiator itself, forward of the flap.
  3. No information but an observation. EE549 seems to be carrying the initials and rank pennant of Air Marshall Sir James Robb who commanded Fighter Command during that period. Presumably he had it assigned after the record was made. It is recorded as having continued with Fighter Command into the 1950s. His Spitfire SL721 is recorded as having been blue and marked similarly.
  4. RJP

    Reboxing, who makes what?

    Frog in 1/72. Aurora in 1/48. Their WWI series also had erks to swing the prop. Revell did pilots in their 1960s 1/72 line. I had one pilot immigrated several times. He went from one model to the next as his aircraft had accidents. That guy changed sides more often than a Confederate soldier.
  5. Cheer up, we all have been there. Not all is lost, this could be a good time to experiment. It's not a disaster but an opportunty. Even, as some Prime Minister once said, an opportunity for further disaster. Sanding might not be necessary - what did you use for the clear coat? Is it soluble? Also, might it be possible to sand/polish/whatever to the limited area of the foreign matter, then recoat as necessary? Even if you damage the colour coat underneath you can repaint that and start again. You could even weather over it. You didn't say what the subject is - could you make it a whitewashed Luftwaffe type in Russia? An airframe under camouflage nets in the Pacific?
  6. Watch out for the small details. I don't think I've ever seen a Mk II with the larger bomb aimer blister, only the original shallow one. Also, the pitot tube seems only to have been in the original forward position. Canopy blisters? Side windows? Tail turrets? The Lancaster saw so many detail changes over its life that there are bound to be more and none of them would be peculiar to any particular mark. Now I've said that, someone will prove me wrong and I will be glad to have another picture or three to download!
  7. Ha! Think of me as a government telling everyone what to do during a pandemic and heading for the hills if it doesn't work. You are definitely on your own. I think of it as a heroic measure, the last attempt before the patient's inevitable demise. Even if it goes wrong you are no further behind.
  8. Curious about the standing stage - how fine did you go with the sandpaper? I generally start with 400 grit or so for shaping and serious removals (think 1960s rivets) but get down to much finer grades to restore the surface. I do recall the caution from a woodworker friend that worn out sandpaper isn't finer grade, it's just worn out. How often have I tried that only to fail? One other limited-use tip is to restore surface integrity using a very thin coat of liquid cement. Not for the faint of heart, that one!
  9. Those who have been paying attention to the news lately have learned a lot about dangerous stuff floating about in the air - and that's just the stuff we can't control. We all need to cut the angle on the stuff we can control. Airbrushes atomise paint and nobody's lungs were designed to handle that safely. It's not just particles: solvents magnify the danger. So ventilation is a must and so is a good mask. Eye protection won't hurt either. I am about to give my airbrush another go too and intend to build a proper booth with extractor fan (to the outside) before I start taking chances. Safety above all. If you can't be safe doing it your widow won't care much about the wondrous finish on the model that killed you.
  10. I haven't mastered my airbrush either. At my age I might not bother. I have found a use for it though. When my desktop computer needs its brains blown out a compressor-powered airbrush is just the thing. I take off the access panel and go to it. Quiet and powerful, it puts up great billows of dust from all the pesky crevices that a brush won't reach. I hold a vacuum cleaner head next to it and the mess never gets to settle. And no messy overspray either.
  11. The orange triangle marking on the nose denotes 320 Squadron. Also displayed on their earlier Ansons and later Mitchells.
  12. There are some good close shots of a Norseman in the Warner Bros. 1942 Captains of the Clouds, including operation of the doors front and back. The machine in question is the prototype CF-AYO. re-registered as CF-HGO for the movie. Note the early cowling, not the one fitted for the later engine. The film is technicolor and the Norseman figures largely in the first half or so. It was made mostly in Ontario, North Bay for the bush plane sequences. The action shifts to BCATP bases in Southern Ontario so there are many Harvards, Yales, Finches and Ansons. It ends with Hudsons (filmed at Burbank, I think) and a Hurricane from Debert (?) Something for everybody. The film has been available on DVD and is shown sometimes on the movie channels.
  13. FYI on the Crane photo. The original file name is just wrong - not only is it not an Oxford but the serial is incomplete. It is 7962, not 962; you can just see the edge of the 7 under the wing and it is the only Crane with a serial ending in 962. 7962 was used by the Test and Development Establishment at Rockcliffe over the winter of 1941-42 so presumably that's what was going on here.
  14. It's a perfectly valid scheme so long as you want to do the warbird. Colourful, clean and documented. Another example is a P-51D flying registered as NL51JB and finished as 'Bald Eagle'. The scheme is based on a B or C model from 1944. Not only that, it is highly polished and the upper surfaces are in a very rich blue, not the green that has been the subject of much angst. A real aeroplane and as a model completely valid if you are depicting a warbird. All that shiny paint and metal could be something of a challenge. If it matters to you, you can drive the purists nuts with this sort of thing.
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