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David Mooney

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About David Mooney

  • Birthday 09/28/1975

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    Ayrshire

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  1. It's quite easy to do in this kit as the pylon mounts are 2.5mm wide and its quite easy to get hold of some 2.5mm cylinder magnets. What it does do is save the pylons getting knocked off in transit.
  2. I believe so, its certainly the same on the C/D and J but is easily fixable if you flow what I did in reference to SAT69's question.
  3. If you go down the Tamiya route you'll find it a very easy build, the intakes need some surgery to get to look half decent. Tamiya are know for their great kits, but I have no clue as to what they was thinking when they engineered this area of the kit. Thank you for your kind comment and I was waiting for this question to come up, but I didn't think to take pictures of the surgery needed. If you have the kit, you'll notice that the fuselage has some parts of the inner intake attached to it, these need removing. What I did then was place these inner walls onto the intake and test fit them to see they looked and fit correctly, after checking this it was a case of sanding and filling the intake smooth, painting and then attaching them. Hope that helps.
  4. Hello all, I've been working on this one for a while now and i was hoping to get outside and get some photo's on a diorama and in daylight, but the weather hasnt been playing ball. So, i thought i'd get some indoor pics done and then update this later. The build includes Red Fox Studios instrument set and all the weapons are attached with magnets for ease of transportation, paints were from Gunze and oil washed with Abteilung Starship filth for the most part. All comments welcome
  5. Haha! Nope, they always ping off in transit...so that'll be done by the new owner.
  6. Hello all, i hope you're all keeping well. While between projects I manged to dive into a quick Hasegawa 190 kit, for some reason these kits are far better IMO and go together better/easier than the Revell versions. I had an EagleCals (EC#79) set sitting about so though id use them on this one and use the rest of sheet on another one later, also added were the gun barrels and pitot tube by Master (AM-32-065) set....plus some canopy masks as i hate masking canopies up :-). Paints as always are Gunze and then lightly weather with oil paints. I will try and get some outdoor and moody shots later on as its not the nicest weather outside right now. Hope you all like it, please feel free to comment or critique.
  7. Thank you for your comment and getting the decals to look real isnt as hard as it seems, just a bit of faffing about. I always gloss before decalling, i did try doing it without the glossing step but always hit issues so i returned to basics. Then lay the decals down and leave to dry, then add another layer of gloss onto and very lightly sand the decal area, keep doing this until the aircraft and decal layer is the same........then finish with the varnish of choice. Hope that helps.
  8. No, not this time but on the bench are two Fw190 A-8's of the Hasegawa variety.
  9. Thank you Yeti, I'm surprised you think its an ugly looking aircraft but beauty is in the eye of the beholder isnt it. I do try to avoid doing any photo enhancing in case people complain, but how about this one for looking realistic?! Thanks Grae, the hanging antenna is the FuG 16ZY Morane Antenna. The Morane antenna and the wire antenna were part of the send-receive part of the radio that included integration of the 'Y' control system. The Morane antenna was the transmission antenna and the wire antenna was the receiver antenna and found on many German WW2 aircraft. Dave
  10. Hello all, i hope you have been keeping safe. I decided to do another one of Trumpeters Me262 A-1a's knowing that some of the issues could be fixed. As many are probably aware the weapons hatches on the front are pretty poor in shape and form, so this was addressed and hopefully look pretty decent this time. EagelCal decals were used for this aircraft plus Quickboost seat and Brassin wheels. Paints used were C117, C121,C122 all from Gunze. As ever, please feel free to comment on the build even if you think there could be improvement's Thanks for looking, keep safe folks!
  11. I did go through a 'trail and error' stage with other solid colours and then the clear green idea popped into my head to try...and it seemed to look better. These J's came looking remarkably different to each other so it's more a case of adding what you need to get what you want. Of note, for the radome on 'Echo' the closest match I could get was Halfords grey primer but again they varied in service and time period.
  12. The base is made on a 600 x 600mm insulation floor tile as a base. I cut/scored the concrete sections first and then covered it with a pva and a dusting of filler and grout to give it texture, then painted afterwards. Hope that helps I tend to stick to Gunze paints where its possible, so i went for GS C334 (plus a bit of clear green) CC335 and C332 for this build Getting 'that' shot always seems to make things look.......maybe the sunsetting takes peoples eyes away the minor errors lol Thanks all
  13. Cheers Rob, The 'skyflash' underneath were paint a light grey, but the picture i had of one was labelled as a skyflash but its possible it was labelled in error and was a Sparrow....#nightmare. Hands up on the AIM-9's, I knew they wasn't quite as accurate as id have liked. Thanks for the critique as it does help me improve my builds and get them more accurate.
  14. Thanks for your comments, could I ask what the problem is with the missiles? I cant change these but good to have critique to improve the next one.
  15. Hahaha! I hope I have corrected that, but I think it was a 'fat finger' moment
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