Planebuilder62

Dear @Dermo245 If you take a look at @zebra’s 1/48 GB thread you will see the fairings at the bottom of the fin that are part of the Hypersonic conversion. You can also see the small rocket nozzles around the nose cone. Regards Toby.

Hi @Dermo245 Did you know that the fuel lines to the rocket engine can be made from 1/4 round plastic strip glued along the bottom of the fin on each side. They join just infront of the fin after splitting out from the spine. Hope that helps. Regards Toby

Sorry to see your Wasp is putting up such a fight James. I thought the Air Graphics conversion set was difficult but it had none of the wrong dimensions of the undecarriage that you are facing. Here was my attempt Regards Toby

Hi @fatalbert Have you seen @woody37’s Washington build in the WIP section? Regards Toby

Lots of IPMS Norway members say these parts are good. @Vingtor are releasing decals for the new Airfix 1/48 Sea King to be used with these parts. Regards Toby

Hi @Brandy Did this build get stuck on the shelf? Regards Toby

Great build Keith, well done. Did you use decals or paint on the bonnet louvres? Regards Toby

Its easy to find out George. Tape all the big bits together and see if it tips on to its nose.

Hi @Beard Nice build so far. I have seen many Phantom builds where spacers are put inside the fuselage to avoid a gap between the fuselage and wing upper surfaces. Maybe that helps for later. Regards Toby

Dear Heather What about splicing the bell end to the front of part 205/206 after cutting off the wrong shaped front end, the shape the bell end bit with a sharp knife and drill out the exhaust hole? It lets you move the build along with what you have. Regards Toby

Hi @Ricardo Barrientos There was a build review a few years in a SAMI magazine that I still have. The builder found that the curved part with the top front turret had a different curvature tha the fueslage laving a step between the parts. I can scan the article and send it to you if you send me a PM. Regards Toby

Hi Julien My experience with Alclad Hi shine shades is masking tape lifts them off easily and they do not like handling. When I built my NF-104 in the link below the pre painted wings were glued to the NMF finish painted fueslage. I suggest paint the wings first with the fueselage masked against overspray. Than mask the wings and put gloss black down and leave it for a few days. Polish the black finish and then mask and spray the smaller NMF panels. Cut paper masks for these panels and then wet them for adhesion. Spray the main NMF shade but be quick before the water dries and the masks fall off. Then you need to handle the model by only holding the wings or wear white gloves. Before you commit to the NMF shades, try them out on someting else. The reason for leaving the black to dry for a few days is to avoid a reaction with these hi shine shades that are agressive to the primer. Another thought about masking NMF shades over polished gloss black is the black surface is very smooth giving the paint minimal chance to bond to the primed surface, practice first before commiting to your well built model. Regards Toby

Hi @zebra What is your painting plan for the NMF and the wings? Regards Toby

Hi George. Will this model be a tail sitter? Regards Toby

Wow, Beggsy. That is the fastest Spitfire build I have ever seen. Regards Toby