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Bozothenutter

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About Bozothenutter

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    Netherlands

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  1. Never thought I'd use a large flat metal file on a model....
  2. Pffff....keep seeing new stuff... The turret curve, and the vent cover
  3. Turn out the gentleman was right, the mantlet is offset, but the gun is centered Made a width jig And a sawing guide Second cut
  4. Jack comes trough again! thanks for the tip on how to measure, going to try that!
  5. thanks again, dare I ask for the inner measurement aswell, as that is the one i'm thinking of using
  6. Lol....did Trojca do a Pz.IV book aswell?
  7. Width is different of course, but like the BBS wheels of the '80's, or most current racing wheels, its not strange to have a modular wheel. I'm thinking they might have altered the casting master, just used the centre, something like that. Think spokes centre with toothed wheel on the outside, and possibly a whole rear rim for the inner toothed wheel.
  8. I have noticed this in other area's of interest aswell, one reply I got was "but the importer has in in stock, our systems are connected......"
  9. anybody have scale drawings of the Pz IV sprocket and its constituent parts? (or maybe measure a 1/35 one?) It looks suspiciously like the drive sprocket of Panther V2. And as the Dragon kit part is too large is all diameters except the outer one, I suspect the real V2 used the PZ IV sprocket as a base in some way. (and yes it has been pointed out to me that H/J came after V2....so maybe they had the design lying around already) Panzer IV H/J V2
  10. Talk about AMS... A well respected member on ML gave me some pointers on what was wrong with the Dragon kit. After a flurry of measurements and conversions, it turns out the kit is fine and Dragon did their homework.
  11. Might as well share the research: Mind, this all relates to the Dragon kit! Hull: large exhaust muffler with sheet metal cover and exhaust on top into which the two exhaust pipes vented Turretlifting rings with a round base which also hold the smoke dispensers at the front, slightly raised from turret roof Ladder on left side (standard crew ladder?) Kit engine cover hinges are wrong, need to be reversed and no visible bolts (bolted from underneath, tapered head bolt) Remove ribs on final drive, the ribs are from the upgraded FD Remove raised edge on front of deck, can’t see it in pics Flatten filler port and add camfered edge, seemt too high and squarish to me Add lozenge shaped inspection hatch on engine plate near front engine compartment hinge Add hatch stopper near rearmost hinge (part is in kit from Ausf.D) Add bolt near handhold on engine hatch (square keyhole?) Add another near left fan cover (plug?) Add lifting hook on left past 3rd hole from top of engine cover plate (seems like standard location on Ausf.D) Add corresponding hook on other side near hinge of engine cover (seems like standard location on Ausf.D) Add lifting hook centre rear of engine cover (V2 had 3 hooks) Remove all bolts from engine cover plate, it seems for the pics only the corner bolts were used Add square keyhole above filler cap right of centreline, and corresponding plug? on other side Rebuild fan covers: Angle on outer edge of circle, base a touch larger, but minimal extra around the fan cover Add casting stubs and sand flat on topside so it looks machined. Oppsite the radiator cap does not have any horizontal surface Right side fan cover has left side machined for engine hatch clearance Add bolts to fan cover plates 8x Correct hull rear side extensions at rear need to be flat like the rest of the top of the side plate Roof plate lies on top of sideplates, is narrower than hull top (see photo of engine with all covers removed) Carve ledge for roof plate/side plate to add weld (convex weld) Front roof ‘weld’ is too far forward if you draw lines on the side plates to scale thickness of front plate Rear plate either falls within the side plates or on the side plates (not decided yet, but this decides where the weld goes) Replace 32mm front plate on bottom with 16mm plate (lowered front plate into hull) Inspection hatches on bottom seem too thick Add welds on all mating surfaces, they seem slightly recessed Lower edge of sideplates needs camfer as it was cut was at right angles, weld goes on this camfered edge Same for front plate wher it mates to bottom of sponson Fill holes on bottom of sponsons for schurzen Remove ‘bolts’ from bottom of sponson Cut slots in bolts on side of hull where shocks go (if shocks were on a different station they might have to be moved) Front plate ‘weld’ seems in to high a position aswell calculated scale thickness and draw a line Rear plate should be same height as roof plate, added strip to rear plate to make it higher Should have no front hatch plate on hull if built as in pics (can’t do that as no interior) No hull periscopes in pics Barrel travel lock should be symmetrical Turret to hull clearance should be minimal Dunkelgrau RAL7021 ' 2 ' on the glacis Numberplate IIN 0687 Front plate hangs from tow holes with wire and teardrop shaped chain Rear plate hangs from top exhaust tube by coarser chain 18 bolt rims V1 First and eight swing arms had shocks (V2 aswell?) V1 delivered end of September (V2?) Turret: Cable for smoke dispenser goes trough right angled (cut'n shut) tube( 90deg angle) in front of mounting bracket Thickness: Rear 45mm Front 80mm Side 45mm Thin down cupola mount ring, kit rings seems to high compared to pics Narrow ‘ramp’shape on cupola mount ring from kit compared to pics Add extra ‘ramp’shape to cupola mount ring to left of original Cupola mount ring should be almost on the edgeof rear and side plate (proverbial gnat’s bottom) Cupola needs increased height on bottom, metal above and below should be almost equal thickness(slightly less on bottom, but more than kit part, Ausf.D seems lower that V2 item) 4x tiny loop on barrel surround of mantlet Add thin piece of sheet to left side of mantlet to equalize thickness Remove rain gutter from mantlet Add casting mark circles on front Proportions of welds on the sides are wrong, copy from pics Fill keyhole on rear hatch Remove small tab on rear hatch Add better conical bolts to rear and side (1mm) Make cupola hatch handles more 3D and reversed one Fill seam on top of turret, weld should be narrower Remove small triangular supports from under fixed part of matlet and front plate Add welds useful bits: Aber 35A117 for rear boxes? Voyager Model - No. VBS0504 barrel Aber Fenders 35-A110 Ausf.D fenders Aber R-34 smoke dispensers
  12. Only second time I have used my resistance solderer in anger Obviously working on the Aber smoke can set. Use the base for the Pz IV btw, the mounting bolt pattern is horizontal on those.
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