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cmatthewbacon

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cmatthewbacon last won the day on April 27 2013

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About cmatthewbacon

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  1. The real thing: The shut lines on an old car aren't as narrow as they are today... I think as Steve says, they'll just be part of the picture when all the bling is in place... best, M.
  2. Thanks, John... I wish I had access to one regularly! I think I've done more or less as much in the engine bay as my patience, eyesight, and stocks of wire will stand... A little bit of cleaning and tidying to do, but the chassis is now complete, I reckon. Window glass next... best, M.
  3. The only thing to watch out for with Patto's decals is that they aren't designed for any specific kit (I think they are basically designed to fit his own slot car bodies in 1/24 or 1/32) I had no end of trouble getting the Gulf decals onto the Airfix 1/32 917, and only persisted because of the faff of masking at the small scale. Don't get me wrong -- I love his decals, and the range you can get, but they are better when the scheme you're modelling is made up of multiple separate elements spread over a solid colour base. In the larger scale, I think masking is the way to go for the blue and orange, so you're really only looking for logos race numbers, which are probably easier to get... Speaking of books that have got expensive,I have a copy of "Porsche 917: Archives and Works Catalogue 1968 - 1975" which I picked up for £40, now found on Amazon for £1200... If there's anything you'd like me to look up or scan from it, just let me know! best, M.
  4. Thanks, guys! This is (more or less) what the kit gives you for the engine bay. The Lucas decals for the battery came from some handy sponsor logos I had available, and the little filling cap on the radiator and its overflow tube are home made. But see those big empty blue sidewalls? They are pretty crowded on the real thing. So, on with some "gizmology", based on my "Factory Original Jaguar Mk2" book... I know what some of these are... The fuel filter (clear dome thing) is a bit overscale, but I wasn't going to start turning down perspex rod to make a slightly smaller one, so it's a spare bit of clear sprue. The wash bottle and pump (clear blue thing) should in theory either be clear, with blue liquid, but square, or cylindrical but white plastic. However, I had a blue cocktail stirrer that I'd been keeping for just such a purpose, and the hybrid design will add interest to the engine bay. The black and silver box thing in the middle is the main electric control unit, which has a lot of terminals under the black cover. The other two are probably reservoirs of some kind, though the smaller square one has several wires coming out of the top. The wash bottle, control unit and wiring loom go on the exhaust side of the engine bay, and the fuel pump and the two reservoirs go on the carburetor side. I'll put some wires and maybe the fuel lines in when I mount all these on the bay walls, but I'm not planning to reproduce them all... I just want it to look well-filled and busy... best, M.
  5. As everyone else says, that looks just brilliant. The real auto paint gives a perfect in scale finish, and the detailing and painting is top notch as always. I must give my one a go... I like the glass nose alternative to the pop up lights on the Italeri one in the cabinet. best, M.
  6. That looks great... and blinkin’ fast. Did you put the decals on before the final clear coat? The lights are a neat touch. I have one in my stash, and I’d be very happy if it turned out like that! All the best, M.
  7. Thanks very much, guys.A bit more substantial progress over the last few days: That's the chassis done. Brake disks are my usual recipe: Humbrol Metalcote Steel from a rattle can, polished up for the disks, lightly drybrushed for the callipers, and the centres painted Tamiya Titanium Gold. The interior assembles nicely. I've seen people complain about the simplified door furniture, but I figure once it's all inside you won't be able to tell... Finally, a quick mockup to see how it all goes together: Which confirms my feeling that although the contrast on the seats maybe looks a little overdone out in the open, once it's inside it just gives an impression of some detail. Lots of details to start adding now. The one area where this Tamiya kit is lacking is in engine bay details. The heater and battery are there and still to go in, but if you open a real Mk2 bonnet, the impression is of a pretty well packed engine bay, while in the kit there's really a lot of room around the engine. Still, there are plenty of good reference photos out there... best, M.
  8. I'm increasingly fond of those ADO16s, though actually I think the Austin/Morris versions are better looking than any of the BL badge engineered clones, which just look dated to my eye. The Innocenti IM3 is the best of the lot, though... best, M.
  9. @Anteater this is the stuff on eBay, and yes, it looks like it's DC-Fix: Blue velour stickyback vinyl best, M.
  10. +1 here. About the only thing I've found that will attack 2K is 99% IPA, and then only if it's relatively freshly painted or you leave it in the IPA for literally weeks... best, m.
  11. That looks fabulous... I suspect we'll see quite a few built up next time there's a model show! I have to say our Antarctic explorer looks a bit relaxed contemplating the scene at the top. I think I must have seen that photo (or an illustration in an Eagle Annual, perhaps) when I was a nipper... it looks very familiar. You have to wonder how he's going to get it out... Time to start saving my pennies... best, M.
  12. Apologies... to be honest, I don't know. It works brilliantly for Zero base coats. It dries with a slightly matt finish, which is fine with the Zero base coat over the top, which you'd also expect to dry matt and slightly "rough". I've never tried it under Tamiya acrylic sprays, which are my other paint system, because I just use the Tamiya Fine Surface primer for those. The stuff "seems" pretty bomb-proof, and cleans up with water, which is a plus. My instinct is that it'd be pretty impervious to hot lacquer, but might not be smooth enough to use without a clearcoat, and I think it's likely that IPA-based paints and solvents might soften it... Best, M.
  13. Thanks, all... progress is still being made, albeit slowly... first, the engine: ...and the interior is more or less done: The instructions have neat templates for cutting out the "carpet" provided in the kit. Mine had the self-adhesive "velvet" material, but in red, so not really appropriate for this colour scheme. However, a few quid on eBay later, I have enough blue material to carpet at least 20 classic cars... Time to finish the chassis... best, M.
  14. That looks great, Andy, and you’re right, there’s no choice for the colour for an 80s Turbo, is there? Great finish and details, and the wheels are boss. Oddly, the 85 Turbo seems to be one of the Fujimi EM 911s I don’t have... I’d hate to have to play “Spot the difference” with the ‘76 I do, though! best, M.
  15. Not sure why this one has been lingering unopened on the shelf for so long, but I decided it was time it wasn't. Usual Tamiya well-engineered kit, which even includes material and templates for carpets! First few parts getting started. Body is primed with Stynylrez, which is my go-to for going under Zero paints these days. It was a choice between gunmetal with red interior, or this Opalescent Silver Blue (a homebrew using Zero Pearlescent White as a starting point). The interior will be blue and grey. And with the Diamond 2K Clear on top. Shutlines darkened with Citadel Leviadon Blue Contrast paint. best, M.
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