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cmatthewbacon

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cmatthewbacon last won the day on April 27 2013

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  1. Tamiya Fine Surface Primer for me, for anything that’s not going to be painted with Zero paints. For anything that is, either Halfords or Stynylrez. Since the Zero system doesn’t want the underlying colour coat to be shiny and smooth — that’s all taken care of with the clear coat — then you don’t need the super smooth finish of the Tamiya primer… best, M.
  2. I reckon 5% discrepancy is OK, 10% not so much. So I’m happy to mix 1/24 and 1/25 cars, albeit the 1/25s tend to be American and bigger anyway. But 1/32 and 1/35 armour, probably not. 1/76 and 1/72 is on the cusp, 1/78 and 1/72 the wrong side of the line… unless the passengers look OK. Nobody holds in their heads how big a Rotodyne is, so if the people look reasonable you’d likely get away with it… best, M.
  3. I think the Revell kit is actually 1/78, so even closer to 1/72, though less useful for display on your Continental OO/HO model railway layout… best, M.
  4. Not quite sure I understand this… IIRC the airbox is closed at the bottom by the plate with eight holes in…. As to how it attaches at the front, there’s cross bar set into the roll hoop, and a plastic/rubber cylinder around it in the middle (a bit like pipe lagging). There a curved metal plate on the front of the airbox which hooks under it, and the back is held down by the springs. I guess it’s designed to ensure it can’t fly off, but give a bit of compliance over bumps and as the engine vibrates… best, M.
  5. When I was building Zumbach’s RF-D, there are a number of pictures where the upper cowl looks darker than the othe camouflage colours. The explanation in the very detailed photo reference I have (Zumbach’s Donald’s) is that it caused by oil leaking back from the prop and front of the cowling and being wiped off, which makes the whole panel semi-gloss eventually, as the rest fades on exposure to sun and air. I just painted the whole aircraft and brushed on a few light applications of Klear (those were the days!) until I thought it looked right… best, M.
  6. I just know that if I did, all bar one would be shed insulation for the rest of my life! beat, M.
  7. I’m very keen to build one of these, but for hobby-nostalgia reasons, I’m going to hold off for the (already announced) “Flak Bait” boxing later in the year… best, M.
  8. This is just mocked up rather than assembled... there's more painting to do before I get to actually put it together, but I wanted to reassure myself that the engine would fit in the chassis. And it does: I moved the locating pin on the transmission back by a millimetre or so and put a shim on the mounting point to lift the tail end by a similar amount, which then meant that the sockets on the engine lined up with the mounts already on the chassis. That seemed to indicate design, though it might be blind luck. A couple of short lengths of square plastic rod formed new lugs on the block that would drop into the mounts. The bell housing is right behind the transverse chassis tube, but I only had to reshape the lower rear edge of the sump to get it all to fit and align horizontally, rather than having to shorten the sump significantly. I also had to shave the bottom of the starter motor, but not so's you'd notice. Boy, that 427 is shoehorned in... best, M.
  9. A couple of rally concepts in 1973 that never went any further. However, there are some pretty "rare groove" restomods done for high profile owners: https://cars.bonhams.com/auction/22725/lot/310/1983-fiat-126-abarth-replica-sports-saloon-chassis-no-8362973-engine-no-8961544/ Middke Barton Garage seem to be the go to folks for this kind of thing: https://www.middlebartongarage.com/ ...and they have some rather lovely things for sale! best, M.
  10. Next rod for my own back... the original I'm building is a right hand drive, like about half the 289 Sports built. So, time to start changing the kit over. There's more to it than "just" flipping the dash... The easy bit... that three pronged box between the outriggers at the right is the pedal booster set-up. It snipped out neatly from the left and slotted into place on the right with no issues. The left footwell is shortened and the right extended by 4mm to give room for the pedals so they will sit over the booster box. The firewall has a reasonable amount of moulded in detail. That will clearly need to be redistributed and probably adapted, because the 289 Sports I have found online have a different layout of bits and pieces in the engine bay. That said, really good, clear pictures are hard to come by. With the help of a good razor saw, I've got most of them off more or less intact and started to shape the firewall itself. I can't finally glue it in place until I've sorted out the "carpets" and fitted the pedals at the far end of the foot well. First check of the engine position. Getting that in place is the next big challenge of swapping out the power plants. I think it will need to be higher so the starter motor when fitted clears the transverse chassis tube, and probably a bit further forward as a result so the bell housing doesn't clash with the transmission tunnel moulded into the tub. Who knows, the engine mounts might even line up and save me a job! best, M.
  11. Now all we need is ICM to do one in 1/35: Harkonnen for preference, so it can make for great dioramas attacked by 54mm Fremen and defended by mixed Harkonnen and Sardaular forces... best, M.
  12. Depends how extravagant you’re feeling. Swann Morton does metal retracting handles that take their full range of blades but let you slide them back into the handle for storage. Very safe and tidy… https://amzn.eu/d/3HvUyU2 3 for £22 or about a tenner each bought singly… best, M.
  13. I think if you incorporate the picture in the display of something that's predominantly your own work of "art" then it comes under the fair use heading of being "transformative": ie, I think there are ways to display the image with the model, and ways to _photograph_ the image with the model without there being copyright issues... When we did the two CBK SIG Box Art displays at Telford, we had no problems with Airfix for displaying the orginal box art images alongside the dioramas we made to reproduce them... in fact they took the models away to Margate on loan to display them in their Visitor Centre for a while... best, M.
  14. did you have trouble with the meng supplied decals?

  15. I guess for the same reason Meccano doesn’t look like the real thing, unless you happen to be building a 6ft replica of Forth Bridge… It’s as close as you can get in a system that’s designed to make working engineering things… best, M.
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