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cmatthewbacon

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cmatthewbacon last won the day on April 27 2013

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About cmatthewbacon

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    West Yorkshire

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  1. Decals from Patto's Place going on. Excellent printing and thin carrier film, and very easy to use. The only issue is that they are deigned against a 3D model of the real thing, not a specific kit. In this case, the gotcha turned out to be that Matchbox put the NACA ducts on the rear wings/fenders too far forward... That's the majority of the decals on. Still a few small ones to track down, and once they are all set thoroughly I can see that some work needs doing to bed the stripes in around the compound curves. Final clean up and detail painting to do, and she'll be ready for beauty shots... but not for a few days because we're off to Paris for the weekend... best, M.
  2. Got the the body and chassis together. The decals emphasise pretty strongly that they shouldn't be touched after they've been put on, so I figured I'd wrestle with the bodyshell while it's still white (ish... there are some mucky areas that need cleaning up!). Annoyingly, putting the interior into the body popped some ofthe 20-year old glue on the front valance, seam but it was pretty much self-inflicted because of what I'd done at the back... Look closely, and you can see at the bottom that I've made the unequal paired exhausts using aluminium ferrules cut and mounted to the ends of the plastic parts. To the matchbox engineers credit, both lined up with the centres of the moulded "pipes" (which were both the same size). But on the real thing, the narrower pipe comes through the bumper, while the big turbo exhausts though a cutaway. I drilled the moulded pipes out, enlarged the holes and cut away below the big one. And was rewarded by the narrow pipe slotting into the smaller hole, and the big ferrule centered in the cut out. Not bad for a pre-CAD design that's not been built quite the way the designers intended... Taking a break now while the nose repairs set... best, M.
  3. That looks utterly brilliant! It’s always been one of my “grail kits”, and you’ve whetted my appetite even further! That one could pass for a Tamiya 1/24th build... Very well done indeed! best, M.
  4. Now looking like a badass Baja Buggy Better go fix that seatbelt that's come adrift before I forget! best, M.
  5. Engine complete and test fitted: The front suspension is pretty detailed, but does all fit together remarkably well... if you use actual plastic cement that allows a bit of "wiggle room" as it sets... And yes, it is going to be Jacky Ickx at the helm. best, M.
  6. A state of the art 1/24 Spitfire and GT6 from Airfix would certainly make me a happy man! That said, I’ll be buying at least one FR.XIV... I have at least one of all the other marks... ...and, sorry, but there IS no aircraft that’s “equally iconic” when compared with a Spitfire. As famous, as familiar, maybe, but iconic, no... best, M.
  7. @Old Mull I used a set of Detail Master etched wires intended for fake 50s wire wheel hubs in 1/24. I needed a set of spokes that were radial, rather than crossing. Full blow-by-blow account here: https://uamf.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=18699 best, M.
  8. ..... and , anyway, back at the bench The silver details at the bottom are added from sprue. And this is where we are this afternoon... best, M.
  9. So for those of you wondering what colours this one will be racing in, or who's driving, here's a clue... So, whose name is on the car...? best, M.
  10. One that's cool any time, any place, anywhere... best, M.
  11. The engine is done. There'll be a bit more "gizmology" in the bay around it to connect it up a bit (coil packs, wiring and some random tubes). Now I need to find a decent photo of the cockpit... best, M.
  12. Picked up this one for a decent price on eBay because it was started. The body had been glued together (incuding sticking the engine cover down) reasonably sturdily, but was a bit messy and yellowed by now. Everything else was OK, apart from the two engine halves being joined without the bit that's supposed to fit between them being put in place. I'm not sure why the previous owner had given up... none of these things seemed too hard to fix... First job was to get the engine cover off, and deal with the gaps that were left, and then fill the joins around the lower edge of the body. Removing the chrome resulted in a bit of a surprise. Despite its strange appearance, the plastic sticks perfectly well, and it's tough. I thought the translucence might help with the fan casing, which is a weird fibreglass in real life. Rubbish photo, but all I had to do to recover from the previous owners error was spring the barely glued seam in the transmission end, and slip the axle into place. 5 minutes and the build was back on track. I wanted to wire the distributor, but I knew there was no way I could drill 12 holes in the top of that 1/8" cylinder. So then I had a brainwave. I drilled a small hole centrally, then a larger one, and glued some rod into the inner hole, leaving me with a circular gap all around the perimeter. I figured I could get a lot of wires in there, superglued in. And I did. Not quite enough, but more on that later. On the left, the part Matchbox give you for the airbox/plenum. It doesn't look like any picture of a 935 engine I can find. This is an early car with a single turbo engine, and they seem to have had a sort of horseshoe airbox. It should actually be more tapered in the "legs", but I need it to glue on top of the stacks that Matchbox have provided. So, some heavy plastic card. Some carving and sanding later, and it looks a bit more like the real thing. The wires go six to each side, and then three to the upper and three to the lower plugs. I used heat shrink tube to bundle the wires, which gave me the opportunity to sneak in a couple of extra ones that don't actually come out of the distributor. It'll be hard to spot the deception, I hope... This one will also get a driver. I've picked up some Penelope Pitlane resin figures intended for slot cars. The one destined for the Bugatti 59 just wasn't going to fit, whatever I did to him. This guy has been slimmed down and trimmed to fit more snugly into the seat, and his legs bent more toward the pedals. Body primed with Tamiya TS-101 to cover up the grey filler on a white car problem. That revealed some more areas that needed a second pass, as you can see. I've glued on the door handles and mirrors, to be sure of a good plastic to plastic bond. They';; need painting black at the end, but there's a fair bit of black detail painting to do anyway. Test fit of the airbox, which looks more or less as I want it to. The compressed air duct from the turbo was originally designed to connect to the front tube of the original plenum part, which is obviously no longer there. It should actually disappear backwards alongside the fan housing, so I replaced the plastic piece with some conveniently 2mm diameter aluminium wire, which is flexible enough to adjust to fit when everything is joined together (the brownish turbine is glued to the pointed end of the exhaust output you can just see under the middle of the transverse engine mount bracket. Time to paint the the "plug covers" and drill them for the wires. best, M.
  13. That is a most excellent job, with some painfully-familiar problems solved in new and cunning ways. I take my hat off to you! It does seem that there are many ways to build this kit, and what they have in common is that none of them are the way the instructions would have you do it. Some designer put a lot of work into the detail of the engine in this kit, but it does appear that no one tried to assemble it before they wrote and illustrated the instructions... Final straight now... best, M.
  14. Not being the owner of a colour laser printer, I took some artwork and 5 sheets each of Specialist Crafts (I think they are what used to be CraftyComputerPaper) white and transparent paper to my local print shop. They've done loads of work for me and people I know, ranging from glossy brochures to roll-up posters and large photo prints, so I have no reasoon to think that they don't know what they're doing. Anyway, they just can't get the ink in their colour laser to stick properly to the paper. They swear they have followed the instructions (each sheet comes with a copy of the how-to). The instructions mention that the paper must be at room temperature to prevent the ink dragging, but it's been in the office for a week, and it's not exactly "cold and damp winter months" when the instructions say that this could be a problem... I'm at a bit of a loss. Are some laser printers able to print decals and others not (their printer is brand new, so it's state of the art, today)? More importantly, how am I going to get my decal artwork printed? Anyone know of a "known good" combination of paper and printer that definitely works? best, M.
  15. Thanks very much, all! @Stew Dapple... your wish is my command: There's a story to those Humbrol tinlets. Both were used on this build. The 55 Copper is for sure 35 years old, because I bought it when I was painting metal D&D figures at 17 or so; the Railway Authentics Steel is probably even older, because I inherited those paints from a guy in his 60s when I was 25... Both worked perfectly after a quick stir! @Alpha Delta 210 I like the "cutaways' as well! It's very easy to do with these Matchbox kits, because they all have removable bonnets/engine covers. I just take a picture with the bonnet off, put it on without moving the car or camera, and take another. Then I paste the bonnet on image on top of the bonnet off one in Photoshop, and use the eraser tool to remove the bonnet layer over the engine... @keefr22 these tyres are (hard) rubber/vinyl. It's not the same shiny stuff as in the MG TC kit that I have, but it's definitely not hard styrene. Here's a nice grid of 1930s Historic Racers, ready for the off: Airfix 1930 Alfa Romeo (2300), Matchbox Bugatti Type 59, Matchbox Aston Martin Ulster, and Airfix MG K3 Magnette. And finally, the current Matchbox 1/32 built cars in my collection. I have an MG TC, Porsche 935 and Auto Union Type D still to do, and there are obviously quite a few more to be had, if I can find them at reasonable prices (£30+ for a Citroen TA or Packard Victoria seems rather a lot!) best, M.
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