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Michael M

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About Michael M

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  1. Thanks. About the glue, that depends on the situation. First glue is almost always BCG (Brand Clear Glue), it's kind of kids glue, non toxic, no scent, no nothing haha. Its like veeeeery watered down PVA. It's biggest advantage, even over PVA, is the fact that it virtually has no 'thickness' Where possible I add some CA to strengthen the bond. For flat elements like port holes or closed doors a layer of primer airbrushed over is enough. I also use PVA, CA, for gluing decks to hull i use Tamiya primer put on wit the brush...
  2. Linoleum after wash: While it dries, I've put up some gold stuff onto the stern superstructure : Cheers Mick
  3. Thanks Plating is many stage process and getting right sequence and colors took me some time Weather you actually make the alternative streaks raised and depressed or not, you can get the similar effect with just the right paint job. You paint the whole ship in uniform 'middle tone. Then the raised streaks you highlight towards the top, in 1/700 2 highlights should be enough. Similarly on depressed streaks you put on 2 shadows also towards the top. Then plate joints, it has to be 2 different shades as well because you want similar degree of contrast on different streaks, so the panel li
  4. Linoleum done, time to move towards the oils.... Cheers Mick
  5. It was many stage process Beefy, but in short it was done streak by streak, first shaded, then separate plates. After all were done I misted all of it with base color to dull down the effect. I admit, I'm quite happy with the result It's further development of the method and colors I used on Nagatsuki.
  6. It's been some time since the last update, but it wasn't idle time Base colors on the hull, only thing left is linoleum, which I'm going to tackle from tomorrow on Cheers Mick
  7. Hull ready for coloring, all the PE that needed to be on it at this stage is installed. Cheers Mick
  8. Yup, tape and primer, that's the best and most foolproof way of doing it. +1 layer will get more pronounced after adding cable and portholes, because they'll need to be 'integrated' into the hull with another layer of primer. I'll mask the 0 layer for that process. On 700's and small 350's I use airbrush for that job, on bigger girls like Danton its rattle can primer.
  9. Plating done, decks in place, rudder as well. Time for degaussing cable and portholes... It's hard to take a photo of it, before all the fun with colors, but you can see them.... sort of Cheers Mick
  10. Hull i ready for plating. Prop supports still require a bit of attention.
  11. On closer look superstructures and funnel had 'steps' i presume leftovers from 3D printing. Hull had a slight trim to bow, but that could have been my saw work Nothing that was complicated. I used same stuff as always, Tamiya putty (filler), CA, and Tamiya primer.
  12. Slowly, towards the hull plating.... Cheers Mick
  13. Time for another destroyer, this time full hull, so thankfully no seascape Kit itself looks like this: For now, I just whacked it all into my 'dry dock' and I'm going to attack it with the saw in the evening. Hull casting is very nice, detail of the deck is crisp ( linoleum part of the deck comes as PE ) only downside of it is hull plating, but nothing that can't be solved swiftly. Some pics of the hull: Cheers Mick
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