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Michael M

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About Michael M

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    Ireland

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  1. Little sample of what's done to the rest of the stuff. Only three PE frets left and finally...... THE END of grey... I have enough of that colour for a loooong time
  2. Little progress, while the big girl is being painted....
  3. Well you can practice on Nelson I've seen you tried some blackbasing there...
  4. Quick shave, and slap together Cheers Mick
  5. While Danton is in the final stages, another GB started on the other forum, this is my entry. My plan is to make her at full speed like here: But with the full name on her side, this photo was taken during trials, she was still named 30 then I'm going to use this: and I've drawn a decal with Nagatsuki's name for both sides and stern, but don't have it yet That's how much I've managed in last few days, between painting sessions on Danton: Cheers Mick
  6. Today, man flu put me out of action, so instead of pressing on with painting, I have finally taken some pictures That's how it looks like now. Just a few more highlights with brush and then Phase III, base color goes on. Thanks for watching, Cheers Mick
  7. I have it on the long finger, somewhere at the bottom of my pre-dreadnought pile, I'll gladly watch how it comes together
  8. I'm not going to fight that battle with you Jamie. The end result will show I knew I shouldn't open my mouth hahaha.
  9. The point is that if you use lets call them 'original colors' you may end up with dark lump. What will look OK on 1:200 or 1:350 will not be the same on 1:700. Washes will only make it darker again, you have to anticipate that as well. In general if its too bright, darkening isn't really a problem. Unfortunately it doesn't work the other way around.... Contrasts are one thing, general darkness is the other. Don't you worry about twinkles, when my eyes are getting red, that's the scene in which you run hahaha
  10. I would brighten up those colours if I were you. What's OK on 100 meter ship doesn't always work 12 cm model. The scale effect it's called it think...
  11. Adding a bit of hull is simple, just outline the hull on 1 mm plasticard cut out twice, make sandwich out of it. 2 mm is enough to show a bit of underwater part of the hull through waves. Whatever method you choose, you'll probably have to add some anyway.
  12. I use oat bran (whatever it is, never actually tried to eat it ), because that's what i was told to use. So that paper 'frame' is just a white card (as it says on the box ). It doesn't matter what you'll use, it's job is to keep the oats together. Put the oats into that frame, shape it more less with wide brush. You can make the 'socket' for the model to fit (like I do) or just leave some flat space for it. Then you soak it with lacquer. What I did was first soak it with wood varnish diluted with turpentine to keep it together. Now if you have time that will be enough, you may have to do it few times. Since i wanted quick result ( I'm an impatient man ) after getting first bond with aforementioned mixture, I just sprayed automotive clear lacquer on it ( yes the one you can get in any motor factors, I used Hycote one) Spray it on in 2-3 big bursts, so the oats nearly swim in it. After 8-24 h (depends how much of the stuff you unloaded into the oats) it will get solid, like done with CA. Then quick sanding job, to get rid of the oats that stand upright and can spoil the later efforts. I heard that Rayon is better but couldn't get it handy and cotton does the job as well.
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