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Michael Morris

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About Michael Morris

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  • Gender
    I'd rather not say
  • Location
    Worcester
  • Interests
    Spacecraft modelling

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  1. I've just pressed the 'buy' button on an Elegoo Mars 2 mono printer and some water washable resin. This will be my first foray into 3d printing. I'm not anticipating doing huge amounts of printing and have pretty limited space to house everything. I've been looking at options for curing lamps, turntables and containers for washing and it strikes me that buying separate curing lamp, turntable and containers for washing may actually take just as much room as a Mercury curing/washing station, which are on offer for less than £100 at the moment and should be less faff to use. W
  2. Being a spacecraft modeller, there are precious few models available, with many of the more obscure subjects only being available as 3D printed models. One kit subject I'm after is only available as a 3D printed model. The cheapest I can find is £42, yet I can download a high resolution STL file for free. I'm thinking more and more about buying a resin 3D printer and will probably go for a Elegoo Mars (not sure which model to go for yet). So, I'll be wanting to print one-off high resolution parts and speed is really not much of an issue. What resin would you recommend I use?
  3. https://www.buythis.co.uk/product/9018/neilsen-hobby-knife-with-5-extra-blades
  4. Thanks for all the suggestions. In the end I found exactly what I was looking for in a local model shop. Pretty cheap too. Nicely sized rubberised handle for a easy to hold grip and a built in nobbly bit to stop it rolling. I think it was less than £8.
  5. How is the SOFIA build going? I'd love to find out more about this really interesting project.
  6. I build models of rockets and spacecraft. Because this not in the mainstream of kit subjects there are not many subjects of kits manufactured. The advent of 3D printing has seen a welcome expansion in models and add-ons, and I find myself more and more looking at 3D printed models and components. However, these are not cheap and it strikes me that it may be worth me investing in resin 3D printer such as the Eeglo Mars so that I can print them myself. This raises two questions. How much does it cost in consumables to actually print a resin 3D model? If I want to design my
  7. I'm new to dioramas. I've bought some styrofoam to act as a base for my first diorama and some scenic materials for the landscape features. The only thing I need to sort out before I start on some test pieces is what to use to model the ground itself? I see some using hydrocal, some plaster of Paris, some plaster and others a mixture of plaster of Paris and sawdust. What are the best materials for producing a surface to cover styrofoam and produce a durable realistic surface in 1/144 and 1/72 scale? Thanks
  8. That's a nice looking workbench you have there. My workbench doubles as a home/work desk and is on a electric rise and fall frame as I have a bad back. Tilting it backwards would create all sorts of posture problems + mean things would just roll off the back into the spaghetti of 230v cables under my desk.
  9. I'm planning my first proper diorama and I'm well outside my comfort zone, so I'm after some advice from experienced diorama builders. My first project is a 1/144 scale diorama of the Apollo Little Joe II rocket on its desert launch pad. This small rocket was used to test the Apollo launch escape system. The rocket (NewWare kit) and launch pad (scratch built) are coming along and it's time I started planning the 16cm X 16cm diorama base in great detail. I need to reproduce a sandy desert area next to a concrete pad. There will be two short sections of rail tracks for which I
  10. For years I've used a set of cheap tubular metal handles for holding by Exacto/ Swann Morton blades. I've finally got fed up of constantly having to stop them rolling off my workbench and into my feet. I'm after some good quality handles that provide a nice grip, but are neither thin and flat, nor tubular. Just something that feels good in the hand. Suggestions welcome. Thanks
  11. I was using the term 'acrylic' in the vernacular usage, i.e. a water-based acrylic paint, rather than the strictly correct meaning you so correctly alluded to. I suppose we could really do with splitting so-called acrylic paints into two distinct categories, water-based acrylics and solvent-based acrylics. (Yes I know this too is strictly incorrect as water is a solvent, but for all practical purposes it is a useful short-hand distinction.
  12. Bu**er, just spotted that Tamiya do a lacquer flat base (LP-22)! I looked for one before I posted, but completely missed it. Tamiya's really does have a completely inconsistent paint numbering system.
  13. Wouldn't expect it to. Have you tried Tamiya's version of X-21 for enamels? https://www.car-model-kit.com/x-21-flat-base-enamel-paint-x21-tamiya
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