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About lunarhighway

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    Established Member
  • Birthday 09/01/1981

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  • Interests
    General aviation, 1920's to 1940's aircraft, sci fi

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  1. yes, i'd certainly consider getting another one of their subjects. most appear to be based on characters in movies. The bust i'm painting is apparently based on the movie "Dunkirk" regardless the detail is simply great and just paining this a solid colour would already make a nice display piece.
  2. I'm not familiar with that comic, but i can sort of imagine what it might be like. It's certainly a characterful sculpting, almost seeming alive, as his expression seemingly changing as you look at him from different angles. it's hard to photograph the progress... and all the steps so i'll try to give some details in case it might benefit someone.. i've been working some more on the face, layering on glazes... in the flesh, so to speak, his skin tone was a little pale and the shading a little patchy, so i put on some more bight colours, a little red for the cheeks and nose and some sand tones for the shades and than blended all of that together... to be honest, i don't really have a clue what i'm doing but slowly building it up seems to work so far, so we'll keep doing that. up close to the model it might seem done, until a day later under different lighting it might seem to pale or some colours to prominent... i certainly get my money's worth out of this one. I've also turned my attention to the woolly top of the jacket, basically starting with a dark wash like paint and once dry applying more tan and white tones focusing on the high spots. the turtle-neck of his sweater was given a base coat of PRU blue and than the white was build up on top of that, the white parachute straps where done in a similar fashion. the seatbelts where done in green and than a more tan colour build up on them, they are still a little to green, but o do like the overall effect. i've come in with some sand for the shading of the life jacket, and some pure white highlights, i'll glaze over with some yellow again to brighten it up... i try to be as accurate as i can, but i a also hope to make it something attractive and interesting to look at. there's a lot of detail to pick out still and along with the backrest and loose belts there's a while bag of little pieces that will complete the model so i still have my work cut out for me.
  3. It doesn't float, back when i build it we added an extension to the house. at that moment the concrete floor was build and a big puddle had formed from the rain. that looked like a scale lake to my modellers eye. in fact i aded extra weight in the tips of the floats to keep it from tipping back so that doesn't help with buoyancy
  4. looking great! btw check your references when painting the floats, as far as i could tell for whatever reason the blue demarcation on the starboard float is a bit higher than the port one! since you mentioned Future...for hand painting i like to thin my paint with something i think is similar to the Future ... it breaks the surface tension making the paint flow much nicer and gives it a more glossy sheen. so far it worked with all acrylics i've tried. no brush strokes etc even with multiple coats
  5. Thank you. I won't be throwing out all my decals just yet but if nothing else it certainly is a fun exercise to paint some markings...
  6. I build this kit back in 2015... it took a little care but all in all went together without big dramas. for the flat wires i used metal wire squashed flat between pliers... I also replaced the spinner with the tip of a German bomb looked more crisp than the kit part
  7. It's been a while but we're on the final stretch now. i did rigging with elastic rigging wire. installing one end with superglue was fairly easy but getting the other end to stick took some trial. finally i figured out that aceton works as a superglue kicker... for some wires i filled the hole with acetone, applied superglue to the wire and stretched it into the hole... it still takes some practice and a third arm would have been handy. some last details to be added and i'll call it done.
  8. The bulges are correct. the spitfire was designed with a very thin wing. but this meant there obviously wasn't much room inside. because the tires are angled to aid with ground stability the bulges where needed. there are rather subtle though so not always easy to see. as the thickness of the wing is just one sheet metal at this point later strengthening strips where added to keep the skin from buckling in flight. on later wings some pannels used thicker metal sheets eliminating the problem later spitfire variants with the B and C and E wing had additional blisters over the cannons as these to where to tall to fit inside the shallow wing
  9. Thanks, the sculpting is quite superb. And or as simple as they are i quite like how the eyes came out. I added some facial shading and texture and worked on the helmet leather, as well as the jacket and life jacket. slowly building up the shades with thin glazes seems to work well thanks to the floor finisher as thinner. i will need a flat varnish in the end but the glossy paint helps spot where the highlights should go.
  10. When i saw this model a while back i thought it would make for a nice break from 1/72 aircraft models, and still look at home on a shelve next to them. I had been sitting in my stash for some time but a while back i cleaned up most of the parts, still i was a bit nervous about starting the model. i never painted anything in this scale, the largest figures i finished to a decent standard where some warhammer 40k figures but that was more than 20 years ago (oh dear...) nevertheless youtube has some great tutorials, so between that and my past experience i dove in... i primed the model in black and than came in with a misty coat of white, mostly sprayed from the top to create artificial shadows. works superbly in 1/72 so.... the sculpting on this model is just phenomenal and this just brings it out further. i tacked the head and collar in place but started painting with the head on a little wire stand. i gradually build up the skin tones with very thin tranclucent coats, i made a littele wet pallet (thank you youtube for enlightening me) but also my "secret" thinner, being parket floor polish... the main advantage of this stuff is that it has a lower surface tention than water, it helps the paint self level. it also gives the paint a lovely satin sheen wich helps if you build up a lot of layers anyway, i took pictures at 3 stages, but unlike my models the pictures actually look better than the real thing stage one first layer of skin tones, still a little rough and a little pale, so it needed refining since i had to leave i rather hastily came in with some lighter tones finally i blended the skin tones together and gave them a little more brown and red to make the sin look more lively i stared on the helmet using references on line... this model is very detailed so i hope i can finish it to a decent standard. the goggles are a glaze of sand brown over chrome silver with some lighter reflections painted on, still rough but i thin kit already captures the sheen of the real thing a bit already.
  11. that also looks like an interesting colour scheme, looks like you have the rigging all sorted as well... it's one more hurdle i must take on mine... speaking of which... i installed the side struts to the lower wing first, i had pre rigged them with stretched sprue i added little ticker stretched sprue disks to the centre of these next i hand painted them and installed the top wing... this took a little fiddling and some care as it was ever so slightly warped so that i had to use a little masking tape to keep one of the side struts from popping out, the central struts also needed some care to line them up with the holes in the top wing, but all in all nothing dramatic for a biplane. later i realised that i had forgotten to actually glue the top cowl to the fuselage... however flowing some extra thin glue in from the front sorted everything out.... ouff. The front cowl is also still detachable so that the prop can be painted separate but in the end the little grommet that allows the prop to spin can be fitted. i painted in the black roundles... i cut masks and pondered breaking out the airbrush, but considdering they where black i descited to hand paint them, using very little paint but finally unmasking them and doing it by hand... not perfect but not worse than the big masked markings. i went in and tried the fix the comet and some overspray on the roundels... i probably still fix some things here and there... some things that stand out in the photo's are not really that noticable in reality I'm most pleased with the lettering so far, the roundels are not great but with practice i think i should be able to get better results... the outline of the comet was most disappointing, although i didn't expect this to some out perfect... if i where to do it again I'd probably go for a yellow comet only and carefully paint in the red. A little more rigging and some weathering here and there and she will be done... and i'll have a look trough my collection for those other kits i've been putting off for lack of decals
  12. I believe airfix is about the rerelease their gladiator with Belgian decals, so that might interest you. I certainly don't consider decals cheating but it's always nice to have a few tricks up my sleeve Considering in the last picture it's just held on by the central struts and is not glued yet, i'd say, rather good the side struts are held together by horizontal braces that fit in slots in the wings... i think this might leave some minor gaps when they are glued in place, but getting the geometry right should be rather easy. the centeral struts are also linked in pairs that slot into the central top cowl in such a way that you can't get their position wrong (i had actually labeled them before i noticed Hobby boss had thought of that) Although the kit is simplified and has a few errors, the overall engineering is excellent, with parts that could be mixed up having different sized slots to avoid that. and most parts being snap fit. in fact you have to be carefull when dry fitting as otherwise some parts light be on permanent. Hobby boss plastic is fairly hard, but not really brittle so overall i don't have the impression small thin parts will break easy either, which is sometimes a problem on biplane kits.
  13. i repainted the silver and unmasked everything... not to happy with the way the comet turned out, thin outlines seem to be pushing the boundaries of this technique, but than that was the point of this exercise.
  14. Time to put the masks to the test... back basecoat and some silver... the copper is some 20 year old citadel paint the actual copper ring is masked, the circle cutter came in handy to make a fitting mask for the front Masked the bottom serial... actually realised i made a mistake at this point as the 22 should be to the right of the gun, but i put the roundel to close so it wouldn't fit.... lessons learned i'll leave it like this... and this is how it looks under a coat of silver And at this point i changed my mind on the masking order, looking at the demarcation it seemed that it would be easier to mask the green rather than the silver, so i went on to paint on the main camouflage color, and i'll mask it later and redo the silver I used my own custom blend (mainly Revell, Italeri, Valejo... i ordered some empty paint bottles and leaving of the nozzle allows me to pour any unused paint back on the bottle) It's quite handy to mix a small batch of custom colour. I went over with two shades or Hataka dark green to add some modulation i unmasked the tailnumber it looks OK-ish, but the masks should have been more precise... i once worked with a vinyl sticker cutter plotter, and i wish i still had access to such a machine to cut these masks the roundels look better, or rather the ribs hide the imperfections and that's all for now
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