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About lunarhighway

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    Established Member
  • Birthday 01/09/1981

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  • Interests
    General aviation, 1920's to 1940's aircraft, sci fi

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  1. lunarhighway

    Hobby Boss Gloster Gladiator 1/72

    Pull up a chair The aifix kit is probably more detailed and accurate, but these hobby boss kits are refreshing and fun to build, and parts the alternative parts breakdown is surprisingly effective. They tend to have some inaccuracies but surface detail is quite nice so with some carefully painting you quickly have a nice model.
  2. lunarhighway

    Hobby Boss Gloster Gladiator 1/72

    baby steps... I like to separate controle surfaces whenever i can and pose them slightly offset, make the plane look more alive.
  3. It's been quite some time since i posted anything, but I recently started hobby boss's Gloster gladiator (or RAF gladiator as they call it). (i hope the flickr pictures will show up as it's the first time i use this site for pics) I also have airfix's gladiator wich is a more detailed and accurate kit, but since i will be finishing this kit as a Belgian maschine i will be airbrushing the markings and since i have limited experience with this i wanted to try it first on a kit that would build up quickly so i could get right into painting. contents of the box 3 piece cockpit At this point i realised the belgian gladiators had a differentstyle windshield but fortunately the airfix kit had this style and the option of an open and closed canopy so since i'll be building the airfix with an open canopy the closed item would be a straight swap right.... Turns out the hobby boss made the rear taper far to wide so the solid portion should only be half the with... what to do... moddify the hobby boss clear part... a lot of work and no accurate result still so out with the saw for the solid portion i made a mold from milliput and plug moded a nes piece from clear blister plastic Cardboard backing with CA reinforcement... took a few tries as usual but works well enought for such small parts. More sanding needed but much better I added a few more details to the interior, i didn't go all the way, as not much can be seen trough the canopy. i'll save that for the airfix kit. For the interior green i started with a much darker green and than came in with a dusting for a much lighter shade followed with an enamel wash since i had some color left i sprayed most of the top as well, it gives an impression of the final color and to play with the wing shading And that's where we are right now
  4. lunarhighway

    Airfix Hawker Hurricane Mk.I

    I haven't measured the tires but visually they look ok to me. If they are the wrong size they don't look it on the finished model. For the wing tip lights I used microscale clear. I first added a little sprue bulb and than applied several coats of clear leaving each enough time to dry and schrink before applying the next building up the shape like that Depending on the effect on could paint a translucent color on one of those layers.
  5. lunarhighway

    Airfix Hawker Hurricane Mk.I

    Marabu has a little photoetch set of spitfire hubs, the bubs on the spitfire where the same size although the actual tires where smaller, i used these on this kit, and they work great, just drill or sand away the platic hub and overlay it with the pe part https://www.marabudesign.com/spitfire-wheel-discs-p-166.html?osCsid=mo6guil8siiflor3hp3b9ebrofr2g5c4 also comes in handy for revel spitfires with their oversized hubs
  6. lunarhighway

    Spitfire MK.XIVc Academy 1/72

    This tread ticks so many boxes. I actually did a model of the same spitfire using the same decal sheet, but using the old Frog kit, the academy spitfire i build a very long time ago. looking good so far!!
  7. lunarhighway

    Repairing a broken canopy

    i don't think can fix the part in a way the repair cant be seen, but that said, you can sand and subsequently polish clear parts with polishing pads (fine nail buffers of ebay work for me) to a near factory shine. if you can find aftermarket parts i'd go that route, but you could also try to hearform one from clear sheet. it might take several attemps, but i've made a few very acceptable malcolm hoods for my spitfires this way, you just need to make a solid copy of the part from milliput or sumilar as ht original plastic will melt with the heat and stick to the sheet. posing the canopy open if possible will also hide it's imperfections. good luck
  8. lunarhighway

    White Knight - Short Crusader

    I've had some success making airfoil shaped struts from soda can metal cut the top and bottom of the can and than cutting int lengthwise will give you a nice sized sheet of thin metal. it will want to curl up slightly but once fold it's will keep it's shape. scissors are best to cut it, and best trim any jagged edges to avoid injury as the edges can be rather sharp. This can be folded round a suited diameter rod, wire, or straight edge to produce the leading edge, it can than be trimmed to shape and the trailing edge glued with superglue... a metal wire or rod can be ran trough the hollow core (depending on how thin it is) to give strength and provide mounting pins these mounting pins could be placed into drilled holes and when using metal wire can even be bent into the right angle after glueing considering it's virtually free it lends itself well to produce quite a number of details
  9. lunarhighway

    1/18 Spitfire Mk. XIVe - Race #80

    I agree with Pastor Rich, sometimes we attempt to make our models more perfect than reality, however the true quest is to make all imperfections in our models, intended or not, look like scaled down representations of real scratches and dents. I recently found plastic canopies can be sanded to the point where they're barely transparent and look rather ruined and subsequently using sequentially finer grits of sand paper (i use cheap nail care sponges of ebay) can be sanded and polished back to an immaculate shine also i find vacuum forming clear parts is a bit of hit and miss and provided you have enough material, it's best to make multiple attempts and pick the best ones. but once again, a very inspirational build!
  10. lunarhighway

    1/18 Spitfire Mk. XIVe - Race #80

    Once again super work, the canopy is really bringing it to life. i've had some modes successes with covering sanded down original plastic parts with metal tape to shield them from the heat and use them as a mold, but of course in a much smaller scale. Here's a nice picture of the real thing. interesting, the canopy covers the forward interior frame, something that's hard to see when not up close
  11. lunarhighway

    Fouga magister 1/72 heller

    thanks for the tip, pen-bleed is something that i've had troubles with in the past, although the ones i have now seem to hold up rather well, as it happenes i recently did a test by overcloating the marker by brush with clear, and it didn't bleed, so i think i'm good. the reason i got these markers is to apply small markings and perhaps serials where i can't find appropriate decals but the clearcoat i use seems to be ok, so i'll be sealing any pen with that from now on in the case of the wheel bays, i'll probably preshade with black so i don't think i'm much at risk here,
  12. lunarhighway

    Fouga magister 1/72 heller

    Hi all, I'm sorry i am, yet again, not able to wow you with an exciting update, but i'll show you what little progress daily life has allowed me to make. basically i'm further detailing the wheel bays in hopes of being able complete the wings soon (there is the small matter of the flaps) anyway, a picture in usual fouga style, the bays are packed with stuff, and in fact the hoses are so numerous and small in this scale i'm might to have to content myself with making an impression rather than be absolutely exact
  13. lunarhighway

    Academy 1/72 TBF Avenger (RNZAF)

    I build this kit a long time ago and vaguely remember it was a little disappointing after building the academy p-51 and hellcat. so it's nice to see it again, build to higher standards. i believe this kit is actually based on a frog kit, the display stand is identical to what a lot of frog kits came with, the wheels, when posed down where also designed to rotate, however apparently the original kit had raised panel line so accademy somehow retooled/copied the original. still this would mean it's essentially a 70's kit which might explain some of the fit issues.
  14. lunarhighway

    Fouga magister 1/72 heller

    hello everyone, been doing a few things to the kit over the last days, although nothing very photogenic or refined. i glued the fuselage halves together, but before that i installed some nose weight. i'm not sure the fouga needs much, but i didn't want to take a risk, even when the real fouga has a tiny rail wheel to safeguard against tail strikes. since the actual nose didn't have much room to begin with and none after it got opened up, fortunately a little room could be found under the cockpit floor. some tiny nails where super glued to the bottom of the cockpit. they're not that heady but it should be enough to place the center of gravity ahead of the main gear next everything was finally glued together... the radio compartment was superglued to the spine and faired in with milliput (after vallejo and revell putty proved more messy than efficient in my hands ) everything was painted over with vallejo model color grey green, which acts as a sort of micro filler ( ironic perhaps as their actual filler isn't very useful) next comes a lot of messy sanding to make everything smooth where it should be with the fuselage more or less in one piece, it was time to move on to the wings, after looking at some pics, i decided to box in the bays so i had something to add some detail to... in true fouga style there's a lot of wires and stuff to be added... we'll see how that turns out i used thick styrene and made everything a bit taller than it should be... now i'm in the process of sanding it down until it matches the wing curvature and the two wing halves close... a little brute perhaps, but with careful sanding and fitting it should make for a pretty tight fit when done... or so the theory goes