Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


Gold Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Redboost last won the day on January 2

Redboost had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

3,380 Excellent


About Redboost

  • Rank
    Libor Jekl

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Brno, Czech Republic

Recent Profile Visitors

6,681 profile views
  1. Yes, it is nice companion! Despite the Brengun kit is a different technology, both kits are actualy quite close.
  2. Thanks everyone for kind comments, much appreciated! Next Mike? First I have to finish something from my Shelf of Doom, got too many unfinished kits... Cheer Libor
  3. Using some fine drill bits and the Tamiya magnifier head set, of course, as my eyes are not as good as used to be!
  4. Hi folks, this is the new Arma Hobby kit and the build thread is HERE, where I believe all essential has been said. All in all, great little kit with plenty of details and some great features. Cheers, Libor
  5. I call it done, more pictures later on in the Ready for Inspection. Thanks everyone for comments and enjoy your Yaks chaps! Cheers Libor
  6. You're welcome Mike, good luck! I replaced the gun barrels with fine brass tubing and paint them, or actually burnished them to the blackish metal shade using AK solution. I prefer this method over the painting, as the paint do not adhere well even to primed metal surface and the painted part could be easily scratched when placing it in situ. Do remember there were landing gear mechanical indicators on top of the wing, which I made of stretched sprue. There was also landing flaps single indicator placed on the port wing. Forget to mention the decal sheet omitted the fuel gauges on the wing, so I sourced them from Mike Grant generic decal sheet.
  7. Hi Mike, the former is fixed in a firm clamp and a piece of foil (size approx. 4 x 4 cm so you have enough to hold it by the sides in fingers) is heated above a source of heat. I use a candle with aluminium cap (that cheap stuff from a household shop, here we call it "tea candle") and once the foil is heated enough it starts looks like a jelly, and this is the right time to push it against the former. It is just a matter of trial and error approach, you can get the right one only you get all yours fingers burned (joking, please wear some gloves when heating the foil). Hope it helps! Cheers
  8. Thanks for the info! Actually, I never had troubles with older ones too, e.g. those in the Sword kits. Now, it is time to dealt with the details. On the spinner I drilled out the solid centre part which is suppose to be the cannon barrel, and then cut the "teeth" on it for the external starter (Hucks system). Yak's engines were started using compressed air, but the option for the Hucks remained on the spinner, perhaps as a back up measure. The cannon barrel will be then inserted inside later on. Next I painted the undercarriage parts and installed them.
  9. Sure, both are in the pipeline, but the Sa’ar is coming sooner!
  10. No, I only use the fine brush which is part of the cap. The decals went on nicely with the help of Mr.Setter and Softer. I heard the Techmod decals may be sometime challenging to apply, but personally my experiences are very positive, the decals have perfect register and dense colors, are thin and conformed well to the surface. Only the bottom part of the nose shark mouth needed some touch ups with black and red acrylics.
  11. These 5-spoke wheels are provided in the kit as extra resin parts.
  12. Sorry for that typo, I have corrected it. Cheers
  13. Thanks! Yes, the paint was thinned down a bit, but I do not use very low pressure; for me better works relatively higher pressure and very thin line which my Iwata allows.
  • Create New...