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Suggest you add a tiny dash of either red or orange to the green. These are complimentary colours to green so that tiny little addition will just kill some of the ‘greenness’ without darkening the colour. Don’t add too much though or the paint will turn a mud colour. looking good otherwise.
I am thanks corsairfoxfouruncle. The Pontos model stuff looks good Jamie, it's just nearly three times the cost of the model, it's very tempting though! Thanks all for the great advice, I've looked at this forum a lot before for hints and tips just only now started using it!
Really thought to pin down... Different in every photo based on how water and other things reflect of it’s glossy surface. I was wrong about the QM2 colour, it seems to be a dark grey. I have the Haynes manual for it so i’ll check that.
Yer, that photo shows the blue particularly strongly, and I wasn't sure if I should use Tamiya TS 55 dark blue or Humbrol 15 midnight blue. I went with the Tamiya in the end. Here, though, it looks flat black: It's a bit premature, but I wanted to compare the QE2 and QM2 kits. They're not the same scale; the QE2 is 1:450 and the QM2 is :1400, but:
It’s definitely a dark blue... Will have this same issue with my QM2... Not sure you’d want it to look as blue as it does in that photo, but certainly a slight blue sheen. I saw a QM2 that had a colour I like... Will see if I can find it and what paint they used.
Most of the hull painting is now done (just a few bits that need tidying up after minor bleeding). I saw a chart that shows the paint scheme timeline of the QE2, that showed at one point, it had a royal blue hull. I couldn't find any photos that showed a blue hull. They all looked black. Then I found this photo, and it definitely looked blue: So I went the dark blue route with mine, and now I have the same problem as most of the reference pictures - it looks black:
That's fine but much depends on the subject you wish to model. As with many things there are plenty of after market items for WW2 Naval surface ships but not so much for other eras. And scratch building normally implies a desire to model a subject not readily available in kit form which would limit after market items. I am currently experimenting with 3d modelling using Sketchup so that I can get 3d prints from Shapeways. I have discovered it is easier to model at the larger scales due to limitations in the printing material.
Have a look at Pontos Model's detail up set for POW - set number 35015F1. I think most would agree it stands head and shoulders above anything else available for the Tamiya kit, and furthermore everything you need is in the box (except rigging line).
SNAP (almost) I recently stuck a toe in the water of maritime modelling & picked up the Tamiya 1/350 King George V (same class as PoW). I grabbed a timber deck for it & am looking at replacement Pompoms, Bofors etc. There is a wealth of updates/upgrades for these models - no doubt a more experienced ship modeller will chip in with the necessary. I'll be looking at Colourcoats paints https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk
Paul, I don't don't disagree with you, and your display is an excellent example of where ship and water are in sync. My comment is more for those dioramas which have beautifully sculpted waves, but the ship attitude is totally out of sync with those wave.
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