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Ngantek last won the day on December 17 2022

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  1. I'm with Rob on this one. Colourcoats spray beautifully and there are no real tricks or vices, it's much of a muchness whether I choose to use tamiyas, Gunze or colourcoats; ease of use, functional drying time etc are not markedly different. They have the advantage (besides the colour matching which is particularly sensitive on RN schemes with subtle differences in grey shades), of brushing much better than the above paints, which is always going to be necessary on ships. They have a good reputation in the ship world but I think more people would appreciate them in particularly the aircraft world, the high pigment density and satin finish in the aircraft range makes them really well suited. Anyway enough of the stump speech! I'm looking forward to seeing what you make of the PoW. One thing I did notice and perhaps should suggest; diving straight in to ships with a 350 battleship and all the aftermarket trimmings absolutely can be done, but there are enough things about ship modelling that you'll find subtly different. I suspect there's a lot to be gained from quickly building something small and quick straight out of the box like a 700 destroyer just to highlight some of the issues that will inevitably arise. A tamiya e class or vampire for example. Andy
  2. Nice looking boxing. Dunno what problem SH have with Extra dark sea grey. C333 is plenty good, but last time they went lighter 331, and this time 328 which is a fully on vivid blue. Have no desire to wrestle with this one again, but it's amazing how appealing a bit of good box art can be.
  3. Looks very nice. The top of the nose has a panel line in merlin mustangs, no?
  4. Ahh that explains it! Paper panels? That means the scuttles and scuttle covers are scratch built? I've been trying to use paper soaked in klear for the first time, having seen your expert use of it. It's difficult! I like the sea base and Junk. The shading on the linoleum panels, is that done with the airbrush? Andy
  5. Yes, be aware of paint compatibility. If the wash is the same kind of paint as the underlying colour, essentially you are dousing your model in thinners; it absolutely will dissolve the paint away. This is particularly true for water based acrylics like revel aqua and vallejo. I thought the mig washes were enamel, but who knows what mix of solvent they use. As Redstaff says, it's common to clear coat the paint before; or use different types of paint/wash that dont react; but more generally it is sensible to test any new paint interaction before committing to a painted model. Andy
  6. A nice subject Jon, I love these first war destroyers. Been wondering about grey, I've seen a lot of mixed info on it; IIRC following the fleet orders, RN destroyers were still black during Jutland, with some exceptions, but I've seen many people who think otherwise. Of course that doesn't matter if you're planning on 1917! Andy
  7. Beautifully done, it's a lovely aircraft. I have the blue kit in the stash too, very much looking forward to it.
  8. Thanks very much for your help with this Richard. I'm a bit torn on this. Looking through various footage and tracking down the various participating Hunts directly in support of the beaches, I have this list: (the ones that I can positively identify from photos or videos are also tagged) SWORD (sclasses) Middleton (II) 1DF - 'avon vale' scheme Eglinton (1) 16DF Slazak (II) L26 One of these is dark Juno Bleasdale (III) L50 1DF - deffo some dark with stripe looking scheme Stevenstone (III) L16 1DF HNoMS Glaisdale (III) (attached 1DF) - deffo light admiralty La Combattante (III) (attached 1DF) GOLD Blankney (II) L30 1DF Cattestock (I) L35 21DF - upper lower Cottesmore (I) L78 21DF - upper lower Pytchley (I) 21DF Hambledon (I) 21DF Krakowiak (II) Omaha Talybont (III) 15DF Melbreak (III) 15DF Tanatside (III) 15DF (force B supporting) Wensleydale (III) 15DF Brissenden (IV) 15DF Only the 21DF, seemingly all type Is, clearly have this later admiralty (or emergency) scheme; I don't doubt there are more, but those are the only ones I can so far identify, all type Is. There's lots of recognisable schemes of all types that I can see beyond these. So Talybont, of 15DF, most of whom were in western approaches, not light admiralty. IWM A25459 (if correctly dated as Aug '44) suggests Wensleydale was still in WA scheme after D-Day (would all panels likely be B55 at this point, despite clearly being one of the schemes that would be green/blue earlier in the war?). IWM A22472 has her in the same scheme in March '44. That bit of info might suggest that Talybont was still wearing Light admiralty (either MS&B or B&G repaint) during D day perhaps? There's also Glaisdale clearly in light admiralty off Juno on Dday, and a type III in light admiralty anchored during the King's visit on the 16th of June, (which I suspect is also Glaisdale). The different flotilla and in fact different national service makes this less compelling. Perhaps given that, I'm maybe teetering back to light admiralty, but in B&G colours? Anyway... back to the build, which I've been procrastinating on recently. Concentrating on the bridge area for now a lot of fussing on silly detail. The front face of the bridge has a sink mark in this kit, which (uncorrected) annoys me every time I look at my first effort, so that got filled and flattened. I've experimented with klear- soaked paper, shamelessly stealing the technique from looking back at @Michael M's astonishing build of Krakowiak. The 'ridges' bordering the sides of the front face of the bridge structure are a big part of the look of many Hunts but is impossible to cast with injection moulding at this scale. I've tried to do these with paper, but rather unsuccessfully. Particularly because I should've done it last, and keep knocking them off when doing other things to the bridge. The lower flag deck superstructure needed some filling to remove the ugly deck seam (which in turn meant the doors needed replacing) ; the flag deck bulwarks cut away in preparation for some PE or styrene replacements; the aft of the bridge sides reshaped to fit the twin oerlikons; and just various minor tweaks and wire additions to match photos. the front of the bridge has been excavated to make room for the asdic hut and PE 'cover'; the upper ridge around the bridge walls has been thinned and then partly removed to become supports for the (as yet absent) outer rim; I think Michael just removed the rim and added supports of styrene, which I think I might yet do. Also the various anchor gubbins on the forecastle scraped away to make room for PE. A fair bit of tidying necessary once I've finished with the modifications, judging by these photos. The added lower layers of the hull had some primer and needed another round of filling/sanding. Other than that, not much to report, slowly slowly. Andy
  9. Looks very sharp. I guess the lower deckhouses and secondary gunshields are PE, and the barrels brass? I like Aoshima, but always feel the edges of the parts are slightly softer and more rounded off than the designers realise. Nice to see they've done the hull plating as raised detail rather than as raised panel lines as is often their style. Andy
  10. All those little bits really look the part. Ingenious method you've used to make the fairleads. Creating the boats with actual gunwales and thawrts 🤯 Andy
  11. I too have taken to using Mr Metal primer; it is very thick however, and I usually spray significantly thinned with MLT. Brushed I find deforms the shape not insignificantly. It also comes in a spray can, but it's hard with fine brass or etch detail, not to overspray and get beading. It also stays tacky, so is advisable to prime or paint relatively soon afterwards. Whether it actually adds to the durability of paint on etch and brass... perhaps a bit!? By their very nature, these parts are small and sharp edged, and so more susceptible to having paint rubbed or scratched off, regardless of material.
  12. Looks like something boshed together in kerbal space program in about 10 minutes. Shonky afterthought undercarriage and "wait it doesn't work, I'll add some more" boosters.
  13. Fantastic work as always! The fine detail and figurework is crazy for the scale. Andy
  14. Very nice work on the cockpit. Nice kit, nice scale, attractive scheme. Am I right in thinking 800 were covering western approaches during the landings?
  15. New kit looks very nice, and always glad to see a 4FG aircraft. Looking forward to it.
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