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Pin last won the day on October 26 2014

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  1. Hm. Some of the pics are not visible in preview but clickable
  2. Fitted vacformed canopy Pre-masking to feel the seams While endless loop of fill-sand-prime on body and wings gave a coat of steel to the engines And cut the turrets. Decided to make framing with self adhesive foil, sanded it a bit to make it matte More or less happy with body seams, removed temporary masks, replaced with "real" ones Hatches - foil rules Coat of Halford's Aluminium to enter another never ending sanding loop When I sprayed engine cowlings with aluminium riveting revealed that was not visible on bare resin. Decided to rived the cowlings and ... could not stop until the whole plane is riveted Wings are not glued yet, just fitted with metal struts
  3. Pin

    Yak 25 cockpit colour

    Green/Gray/Black https://www.avsim.su/forum/topic/129244-ищу-информацию-по-як-25-кабина/
  4. Pin

    Soviet 'Natural Metal'

    Opaque-opaque. No transparency whatsoever
  5. Well, DC-3 IS NOT a demilitatized C-47, it is the other way around, and as such DC-3 (I mean "pure" DC-3) does not qualify, however ex-military C-47 does.
  6. Pin

    Soviet 'Natural Metal'

    That's correct, most of "silver" soviet aircrafts are painted with a laquor with aluminium poweder rather than NMF
  7. Most parts are cleaned from flush and primed. Che-2 is one of Alexander's early resin kits so some work is needed here. Damn, I should not take pictures with this phone any more, it just does not focus properly. Problem? Not at all, just put the tail for 10 seconds in boiled water and ... One of the seats just jumped somewhere. So I cast a copy Interiour. Not much to be seen. There is no pictures/plans of actual layout of Che-2 cockpit and/or any known pictures so it is pretty much fictional Tried vacformed canopy on. There seems to be a gap between the windscreen and dashboard, need to thing what should I do about it Gap. Scary? (after 15 minutes) well, not too much (another 25 minutes and a thick layer of brush applied Mr. Surfacer 500) not at all
  8. Pin

    Airfix/Heller Concorde 1:72

    I have no knowledge of any
  9. Pin

    Is Dremel any good?

    My vote goes to Proxxon
  10. Pin

    Airfix/Heller Concorde 1:72

    Concorde's attitude IS slightly nose-up. The other thing is that EVERYTHING in this kit is NOT RIGHT and therefore the attitude is probably the last thing to care about. The only kit in my life that I have abandoned
  11. Of course. Valkyrie or Blackbird in NASA markings will look fabulous!
  12. Pin

    Switching colours mid-session?

    With Vallejo - do you shake it well? I mean WELL? Good half a minute of shaking like hell? Higher pressure would help too
  13. Pin

    What's your day-job?

    Software developer. Wrote my first code when I was ~12 and still eager for more at 45, never thought about doing something else except a short period of considering being a rock star, just like Simon Pegg's character in Hot Fuzz wanted to be Kermit the Frog
  14. Pin

    Switching colours mid-session?

    H&S Focus / Evolution, takes about 1-2 minutes to clean between colours. I fill full cap with either IPA, cellulose thinner or white spirit (dependng on the type of paint used), while the cap is still full I use an earbud to clean the airbrush down to the needle. Then I remove the needle and wipe it with a piece of cloth, while dirty thinner soaks just by gravirty through the nozzle. If by the time when I'm finished with the needle there is still some thinner in the airbrush I push the trigger and blow it out (remember, the needle is removed). Then I fill it with the thinner again (still no needle) and repeat the operation with another earbud as usually there is some paint left. Then I re-insert the needle and run the thinner for the third time, usually by that time the thinner comes out nearly clean. I also do thorough cleaning regularly when I disassemble the airbrish competely and clean with brushes, recently I found that intradental brushes are perfect for that. What is it based on and what paints are you using? Technically speaking there is no such thing as "universal airbrush cleaner" as different paints have different bases. Well, cellulose thinner IS a "universal airbrush cleaner" but it may be just a bit too stinky For these I use just plain water and .... Sainsbury's basic vodka! No kidding, vodka is 40% ethanol, AK/Vallejo are water based acrylics. I find that pure IPA is too strong for these paints and make then clog but vodka is just right