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Pin last won the day on October 26 2014

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  1. I agree, I use Sylmasta glues almost exclusively
  2. Different glues serve different purposes. Sometimes longer curing time and lower viscosity is a virtue. Long curing time is never a problem, just use activator
  3. Looking at my stash I think the following kits qualify. Quite a few Bartini DAR (Long Range Arctic Scout) Beriev MBR-2 or MBR-5 (Short Range Sea Scout) Blackburn Perth Bréguet 521 Bizerte Felixtowe F.2A Grigorovich ROM-1 or ROM-2 (Open Sea Scout) Latecoere 523 Polikarpov R-Z or Tupolev R-3 Short Singapore Supermarine Stranraer
  4. Interesting, I see that you use my second favourite source of transparent plastic - CD case (number one is Ferrero Rocher sweet box) Would it be easier to insert a full length window line strip rather than dealing with individual windows?
  5. Wooden stick is OK, but more blunt, less precise
  6. Not sure if you have read my reply in another thread so will repeat myself. The problem, as I see it, is not with CA per se but with PA parts. These small sneaky beasts require some experience and patience and we all came through your pain. I would suggest a couple of things - sometimes CA is not the best choice for the job, for example screen wipes and instrument dashboards are easier to glue with Future (or any other acrylic finish), sometimes PVA is also an option - make a small puddle of high viscosity CA (gel) and use a knife blade or a pin to transfer a tiny drop of glue to the placement rather than to the part itself. Even a tiny drop will provide enough bond to fix a part in place, once cured you can strengthen the bond by adding more glue, again with a knife blade. In this case it may be worthy to use high viscosity glue because of capillary effect
  7. It is surely eligible. Big suitcase with two fans should look fantastic
  8. There is no one "one size fits all" solution. I prefer pure MEK - paid 5£ for 0.5 litre, that would serve me for another 5 years. Would I recommend it for others? Maybe not.
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