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Pin last won the day on October 26 2014

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  1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heinkel_HD_55 The kit was the first ever released by VSV. The biggest disappointment is the wings - way too thick with very crude surface details. Started in July Final photo session to follow
  2. Good progress, Sir. This kit is in my "rather sooner than later" plans so I will be watching with interest
  3. You are right. There are decent Aerovac vacform kits of F.222 and F.224 and Azur short run kits of F.223 but .... not Heller
  4. Fortunately I read the book before I attempted to watch the film. Abandoned after 20 minutes, needless to say I strongly disagree with your opinion.
  5. Yea, call me a maniac, but I have revived this masochistic project. Yes, I just sanded down all the "detailing" The "face" is all wrong, some cosmetic surgery is needed Borrowed wheels from far better RetroKit
  6. Well said, this is what prevents me from buying, that I started to consider some 3-4 years ago
  7. Sarcasm detected Nobody's perfect, of course. My point was that a minute is probably a bit too long, but most of good CA gels will give you good 15-20 seconds before they cure and this time can be reduced if you use activator and if you made a mistake a debonder could undo your seam. In this sense resin kits are more forgiving than styrene as CA does not melt resin
  8. Pin

    Building same models

    Rarely, but yes, with different markings. While military crafts may look the same for someone civil liveries of the same type may be quite diverse
  9. No. For the end user they look and feel exactly the same, it is more about the cost of printing.
  10. Also with resin kits your glueing habits may require some adjustments. When I build a resin kit (and my resin output recently exceeds styrene) I never glue a seam in one go. One small drop of gel (with thin nozzle or on the tip of a knife) , put parts together, position, fix with activator, check. If fine - move along the seam, if not - use debonder to and repeat. For example when I need to put fuselage parts together I glue them with 5-6 drops of gel (one at a time) each 50-60 mm apart, once done I use low viscosity glue to fill the rest of the seam.
  11. I cannot imagine why would you need a minute to wiggle. Most CA gels give me enough time to position resin parts properly; once done a drop of activator solidifies the seam. Recently I use Sylmasta CA gules, activators and nozzles exclusively https://www.sylmasta.com/product-category/adhesives-sealants/cyanoacrylate-superglue/
  12. https://www.signs.com/blog/uv-screen-offset-printing/ https://medium.com/@clashgraphicsga/benefits-screen-print-sublimation-offset-digital-d4ea5e57c956 Under "standard", I thinkg, you assume "offset printing"
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