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Bonkin

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About Bonkin

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    East Yorkshire

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  1. Unfortunately I had too much going on at home over the weekend to spend any time at the bench. All I've really been able to do is to start measuring up for a display case. Looking at it, the internal measurements will need to be a minimum of (l w h) 56cm x 15cm x 18cm. That is around 22" x 6" x 7" for the old school lot - which includes my old man. That will save him reaching for a tape measure . In the evenings I've also worked a little on the decals. This I believe is how the shield should look. It's all been done in Adobe Illustrator so I can resize it as required - and when printed it should be around 6-7mm in height. I'm posting it more for my Dad to check it out and confirm it's suitability... although I'm not sure how much of the detail in the sword will be visible. I think I'll have a go and printing them myself first - and only look to a professional printers if they don't work very well. Finally I've been giving some consideration to the fire extinguishers... I've had a good google trawl for anything that looks like this and I've not turned up anything. I will try posting in the some restorers threads to see if they can shed any light on the overall shape and labels. I could have a go at scratch building these but I need some better reference material really. Thanks for looking.
  2. Possibly... although that would be from an earlier period wouldn't it? I'm afraid I'm no expert. Cheers Richard . Lovely weather again this weekend but today we've had a few scattered showers which has made mowing the lawn a lost cause . So what is a man left to do? Perfect excuse to escape to the cave for a few hours! First up was a scratch build of the wing mirrors. Unusually, on my Dad's vehicle at least, these were fitted to the radiator. I used some plastic card and a 0.5mm brass rod cut to the right length, filing off the edges to give an angled look: I also finished the construction of the winch guide drum which I fitted in place (seen just under the cable drum), and then fed the cable through the pendulum guide and out the back between the rollers. Here it will eventually be looped back and fitted to the pintle hook. I think at least... it was left there when the trailer was not attached... not sure where it terminated actually when the trailer was on the hook... a question for the old man I think. I fitted the windows to the cabin (after first dipping them in Clear), and then. in preparation for final spraying, I masked them all up. I also covered the cable drum and used a bit of tin foil in the back of the ballast box: I fitted the mirrors to the radiator and then used some more tin foil to cover the engine. Including the underside: The bonnets I then placed into position without gluing. Almost ready for spraying... To blow out all the dust I put the airbrush up to 30psi to blow everything out. And now, after finishing the top coat: Notice how my mirrors came off. So did the door-handles! It is going to be very delicate! I've also been experimenting with Adobe Illustrator to create the decals. Not sure yet whether I'm going to print them myself or send them away to have them professionally done. This is his number plate and RASC unit badge - which will be fitted to the front right bumper and to the rear of the trailer. I've yet to create the design for the shield which goes on the left bumper. I will probably do a few for the Centurion as well - just so that everything matches. Thanks for looking.
  3. Cheers Soeren . Ta Phil . Excellent. What kit are you doing and do you have any thoughts on how to display it? So once again we've had a Bank Holiday here in the UK - and once again, somewhat unusually (for a Bank Holiday at least), we've had rather fine weather. What does this mean? Well for one thing it has meant time with the family... and "pottering" about in the garden, and for another, less time in the cave. In short - not much progress I'm afraid... and perhaps not enough to warrant another post. I am posting though because I'm keen to get the details right and my Dad is following along with interest - so I know he'll pass comment if I've not got quite the right shade of red in the ballast box: Once sprayed up I masked it off and then sprayed the rest of the box with the MRP British Bronze Green: Chances are this won't be seen because it will end up being covered in ballast weights and tools etc... but I'm pleased with the result. Finally, whilst doing a dry fit of the ballast box I found some interference with the cable. It was only when studying Steve Farrier's pictures (on page 3) that I noticed the drum wheel at the base of the winch - a tiny detail I'd not noticed previously. As such, I've started crafting this assembly, ready to fit into place: Thanks for following.
  4. Bonkin

    British Army Numberplate and badge fonts?

    Thanks all for your quick replies. I will take a closer look.
  5. For my current project (Diamond T Tank Transporter with Centurion) I'm looking for a suitable commercial solution to decals - but without much success. I'm therefore giving some thought to designing my own decals and either a) printing them myself, or b) getting them printed professionally. A problem I have however is that I am unable to identify the font that was used on the British Army Number plates and logos during the 1950's. Can anybody help me? The picture below shows plates for the Centurion and Dyson trailer: Thanks in advance.
  6. Bonkin

    Taigen Panther G 1:16

    Really impressive work. I especially like the tracks... very realistic indeed.
  7. Thanks Chris. Once again we've had beautiful weekend weather in the UK. We've also had a Royal Wedding - which provides more than enough excuses for popping a few corks and having a celebration. Well it would be rude not to ! As you can image therefore, coupled with obligatory chores, I've not spent much time hunched over the work bench. When I did get some time in the man cave, my main focus was on the winch assembly... As I stated in the last post, I wasn't happy with the string and was thinking of getting something else more cable like. I settled on fishing line and went into town to get some. Now bare in mind that I don't fish and am actually a little bit fish phobic and you can understand that I didn't have the faintest idea what I was after. What I found was that there are a number of different thickness and, remarkably, colours. In any case, without a reference to hand, I plumped for a .45 which I figured "looked about right". Back at home, I cut a long length and proceeded with some enthusiasm to wind it on - a task which became ever more painful as it was obvious that the line didn't want to be wrapped neatly around the drum and instead wanted to loop and curl in every other direction to the one I wanted. Super glue helped but the more I wind the more wind-up I found myself getting. My enthusiasm for the task quickly ran out. Something wasn't right . The more I looked at my efforts the more wrong it all seemed... so I went back to the internet to see what photo references I could find of the cable thickness and texture. Over on the HMV (Historic Military Vehicle) forums I found the following three pictures by some chap called Pennack: Looking at these I realised the fishing line was a bad idea, so I gave it up and looked again at the string supplied with the model (after I'd retrieved it from the bin). It was then that I had an idea of smoothing out the fluff with a bit of PVA glue - so I dipped one end in a pot of the stuff and then ran my fingers over it to rub it in and wipe off the excess. Once it had dried I found I was actually quite pleased with the result. The picture below shows the "treated" end (top) vs the untreated end (bottom): Treating the string this way also gave the added benefit of making the string a little more rigid and cable like. So I treated the rest of it and then wind it on the winch drum. It is still a little bit fluffy, but I will treat this with more PVA - and altogether I am much happier with the result. I'm hoping that by the time I've repainted it and added a little greasy grime it will have a convincing look. Other jobs I completed were the fitting of the scratch built cable pendulum: And finally I fitted the front radiator and winch assembly to the chassis. One final note. My Dad informs me that the correct term for what I have been referring to as "side skirts" (on the Centurion), are actually "Bazooka plates". I prefer skirts myself . Thanks for looking.
  8. Thanks Roger. Once again we've had rather fine weather in the UK over this last weekend, so more time has been spent outside enjoying the sunshine rather than hunched over a workbench. Still, any progress is better than none right? (Especially when coupled with a few chilled glasses of Pinot eh? ) So whilst research continues into the Centurion markings (I've had a number of conversations on this topic with my Dad), work has returned to the tractor. First up where the fiddly little handles that go on the bonnet... which to be honest I found to be pesky little blighters that enjoyed pinging out of my tweezers in a flea like manner to hide in the carpet. After this happened about three times I decided to give my knees (and eyes) a rest, opting to make them from wire instead. This turned out to be an altogether preferable option. Feeding the cable through from the inside, I super-glued it in place and then trimmed and filed off the excess. The wire has the same thickness as the original parts and doesn't need trimming or sanding either! Although I wanted to show at least one door in an open position my Dad wants them both closed, so I fitted these in place along with the grab handles and then primed them up: Merit provided a decal for the instrument panel so, with plenty of Micro Set and Sol, I applied this in place. This turned out to be altogether harder than I imagined it would be. Firstly, the decal was extremely thin and broke up when I tried to apply it. Secondly, the instrument panel itself has a lot of raised edges and pointy bits over which the decal is supposed to go. I pressed on with it anyway, thinking that if it didn't work I would simply remove it and hand paint it instead. All said and done, it is not perfect but it is not bad either. I used a little black wash on it to tone it down a little, and I know from dry fits, that it can barely be seen anyway. If I was doing it again though I think I would cut out each instrument and place them separately. I painted the seats and knobs... ... and with the backs fitted. I was going to put some wear and grime on the floor but found that with the doors permanently closed, it would never been seen anyway. Steering wheel fitted... (how big is that??!) To my surprise, I found that when trying to fit the cab, the steering wheel caught on the interior door handle... which meant I had to push the door out before fitting the cab. So this simple looking step actually took a far amount of effort (and cussing) in order to get everything to fit properly. Of course, had I followed the instructions none of this would have been a problem! Also (for the benefit of my Dad), I've not painted the canvas cover to the hatch yet! It will be a lighter colour. Finally I silvered up the winch cable... but as you can see, it just isn't in scale. It is also disappointingly "fluffy". In short, it won't do. I'll have to have a look for some nylon based thread - or maybe even fishing line. Any suggestions? Hopefully next weekend I will be starting to bring the elements of the tractor together and giving it a final spray paint. Thanks for looking.
  9. Blimey. This is on another level. Awesome work.
  10. Bonkin

    SWS UHU

    Looking excellent. Love the detail work.
  11. Thanks for the comment and tip John . Yes that is a good idea . I am going to weather it up though - although without chipping. To my mind, chipping may be popular on vehicles in a war zone, but in peace time I don't think I'd be wrong to assume that vehicles were always kept painted. Certainly my Dad recalls always having to paint and clean up vehicles - with whatever they could get their hands on. Usually a diesel soaked rag worked a treat on the bronze green. This does bring me to another point though... the colour. My Dad is following this thread with much interest and we've had a lot of conversations regarding colours and markings. He again made the point that the Centurions were more of a faded Nato Green - and often more greyish than greenish. He's sent me some scans from one of his "Warpaint" volumes (by Dick Taylor) and this does confirm what he's been saying all along. Not that I ever doubted him of course . Anyway, I also found this post within these forums: Which again ties in with things my Dad has said. So, back to spray painting it was... using Vallejo paints I mixed up my own "Nato Green" with a lot of thinner. I used 4 parts of 71.092, 3 parts of 71.007 and 2 parts of 71.049 and applied these to the side skirts and then built up a few layers on the main body and chassis: Which when assembled looked a bit better (but not quite): So I then added a few more layers and then added a lot more of the grey (and some more thinners), to fade certain areas: Which now, to me at least, looks closer to what my Dad was after. Next up I started on the tracks, first off applying a base coat of Tamiya XF79, followed by a brown mix of 5 parts of XF67, 4 parts of XF69 and 1 part of XF7, and finished off with various different pigments and fixers. The tracks will have more work done on them when I do the main weathering. Next up was a few coats of Pledge Clear Floor Varnish to prepare for the decal stage... so here it is, looking slightly shiny and with wheels and tracks fitted: And with the side skirts fitted... Next up will be the decals. These are showing their age though: I also want to make sure that the decals match Centurions he was transporting... so a little extra research is needed before I apply anything. Now, with the unseasonably warm weather we've been having it's off for a glass of wine (or two) . Thanks for following along.
  12. Managed to get some time at the bench in this weekend - and started out by putting the wheels on the trailer. I used AK Interactive's products to put some grime on the wheels as well. My intention, once I've done the decaling is to add some grease marks etc. to the axles as well. Finally on it's own wheels: The ramps are still a bit troublesome, but I'm pleased they fold down flat. I think I overdid the wheel grime in places so I'll have to go back and do some gentle touching up. With the angle of the deck it got me to thinking what it must have been like to drive up the deck. Quite an angle! Putting the trailer to one side I decided to spray up the Centurion using the SCC15 mix given in the post above. You can see that I first applied some pre-shading to the body and turret. Almost a smiley face ! Hmmm. Really? I definitely followed the right quantities. Oh well... I'll give it a go anyway. Is it the right colour? I have no references so I don't know. The ring around the gun is actually the bracket for fixing it to the body (when it is on the trailer). For the wheel rubbers I made this big lollipop! Which worked out quite well. Thanks for looking.
  13. Bonkin

    Tamiya Panzer IV Ausf D

    Looking good and sounds like an interesting project. This looks like one to follow!
  14. Bonkin

    SWS UHU

    Looking good and some nice detailing as well. I will follow along with interest.
  15. Excellent thanks. Definitely worth a try. Which medium grey though? Any? Looks good. I'll probably try the "Mike Starmer" mix first though and see what it looks like. So despite the "relax, chill and drink wine" weather we've had in the UK over this weekend, I have managed to steel myself away to the man cave. Also skilfully avoiding a few household chores much to the wife's annoyance . First off, I filled the holes in the back of the Centurion turret where the instructions say the fire extinguishers go - contrary to the photographs I have: I then got back to work on the Dyson trailer... and spend considerable time studying the instructions looking for where parts 50 and 51 go. They are described as side lights (white and amber) but other than the parts list, annoyingly they don't seem to be mentioned anywhere. Studying the reference pictures I have, I can't see them anywhere either so my intention is to leave them off. You may have noticed from earlier pictures that my bracket was broken on the A bar. I modelled a new one from some thick plasticard which I shaped with a file, fixed into place and used some thick super-glue as a filler. It took a while but I'm quite happy with the result. You'll also note that I added remaining photo-etch (weight disk and power couplings): Better view of the A-Bar with attachment added: I then primed up the remaining parts (including the Centurion turret and side skirts) ready for application of bronze green: And then got to applying the MRP Deep Bronze Green paint: The spare wheel assembly hinges (although later it will be fixed with a rope). And the top deck... note that the instructions say that this should be ship hull red but I had several conversations with my Dad about this and he says that was never the case. The only part he remembers as red was the base on the tractor ballast box. Him and a mate painted it once - and had some doubts about how safe it was because this was when the risks of leaded paint were just becoming known. He does remember painting the deck of the trailers green though. Obviously thinks are looking rather clean at the moment but once I've applied the decals and wheels I will be weathering things up a little, e.g. grime and grease underneath and scrapes and chips on top. Thanks for following.
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