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hendie last won the day on December 29 2017

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  1. Stunned. Truly stunned. That weathering is THE most realistic I have seen to date. From anyone. Anywhere.
  2. it's all looking rather elegant, even before you've brought the crayons out. I do so like your little bulges (!) though perhaps I should have written that a different way. They are very unnoticeably noticeable with just the right amount of if they weren't there, I'd probably see that they weren't there. I should probably stop now
  3. The more I watch your airbrush skills, the more I realize just how basic my airbrush skills are.
  4. Or do you? I know the clear transparent resin can have issues with yellowing, but have you thought of using one of the colored transparent resins? The blues and greens look quite cool, though I think a transparent red in that area would work
  5. If I remember rightly, the PE was a complete waste of time. The Hawk is a MkII and the PE was designed for a MkI or a MkIII. I ended up just scratching everything.
  6. Yep, he did. The Hawk kit builds into a nice aircraft though some scratching is required
  7. Tony's suggestion of multiple parts is a good one and worth considering. I've had some issues previously when printing large parts - the end covers for the rails on Pegasus spring to mind so you are not alone. The thing about failed parts is that they can/should be useful. The key is examining what's failed and trying to determine a root cause. In that respect, while they may be failed parts, they are and should be good learning tools. Unfortunately, it can be difficult to spot potential problems in advance, but often, in retrospect it's 'doh! well that makes sense, though sometimes finding a root cause can be a lot more of a challenge. Looking at the result, I have a couple of suggestions for you. Once that fourth wall starts printing, in essence you are dipping a big bucket in and out of the vat. With each dip it's going to hold more resin and that weight will increase with each dip. You could add a small hole or slot on that 4th wall to allow resin to drain. In the front view you have 4 distinct sections. From screen shots above it looks like you will be adding panels in each of those sections? Therefore, there's no need to have that section fully closed off. Instead of each full panel, why don't you just have a ledge around the perimeter for your infill panel to fix to? That would also allow the resin to drain as there is no more bucket Delilah. If you want a belt and braces approach, you could add ribs on the back side to prevent the walls bellowing out. The ribs don't need to be full depth - think of them more as tie-bars, and place them more towards the back side - and they can always be removed later. Don't make the ribs too thick though as that will present other problems to you. I hope that makes sense? I'm in a bit of a rush at the mo' otherwise I could have done some screenshots to make things clearer. What layer height were you using? Often, if I have any questions about a prints success, I'll run a draft print at 0.5mm to check the design, and if that turns out fine, I'll run another at finer settings.
  8. nice to see you back Ced, even if it's not mashing plastic.
  9. I think you may have gone slightly overboard on the number of supports there Johnny. I'll put that down to your covid related wooze factor. Still, better to have excess cleanup to do rather than a failed print. Seems like you're already at ease with this printing malarkey - it's really not that difficult is it? I'm more a fan of 50's & 60's sci-fi, Robby, B9, Daleks etc. Oooh there's a thought - I can print some Daleks to go with my first ever scratch build/ first ever BM topic.
  10. Welcome back to the campfire folks, pull up a log and perch yer bums on 'em. Don't get too close - you might see the defects. There's not been a whole lot of progress on the Scout this week - between my compressor playing up, work getting in the way and life getting even more in the way, modeling time has been a very scarce commodity. I'm also back off on my travels again all of next week for another molding project, and for the Annual Board meeting of the molding institute, so a busy week ahead. Bill, thanks for all the input and suggestions regarding the compressor. I managed to find an O-ring that sealed, but there's other issues going on. The compressor won't achieve more than approx.18 psi and a 10 second spray drops the pressure down to almost zero. I've spent enough time and money on it to date and I figure that getting 8 years of pleasure out of it is good enough to call it a day. I've bit the bullet and ordered another compressor from down the river. If I get bored in future I can revisit it and see if I can figure out what's going on. The rounds Luck, plastic cement, milliput, sproo-gloop, and a lot of French used so far Pete. Bill, if you ever do another Scout I would be honored to at least attempt a Nimbus in 1/72 for you though I don't know just how much detail would be able to be captured. thanks Tony - should be a nice anti-climax this time around then I think this one is more of an Hhhmmnnnnn hi Ian, yup, I had thunkit and aloes triedit, before almost flingingit. Neither option gave me a truly level roof. See damage report below great shots Paul, and yes, they have/will come in handy - many thanks thanks Markus Only one Scout in this lifetime Richie. It's taken me nearly sixty two years to get to this one. In another sixty two years it'll be, well... thanks Maginot. I do find that the seat harnesses really bring the seats to life and they are not particularly difficult to do. I also think that the material (cigarette packet lining paper) lends itself to this type of work, and can produce results more realistic than a lot of the aftermarket stuff. Now on to this weeks chores. Windows. Hate 'em. I don't know why, but canopies give me more issues than any other component. Every build, every time. Hate 'em. As previously intimated, I chose to go down the slippery slope of attaching the canopy to the rear of the fuselage first. Mind the gap folks! Oh yeah. Gotta love a nearly 1.5mm gap long that front edge. Luckily I had the foresight to glue in a strip of styrene (the white bit) before the glass went on as it is about the only place that canopy is going to touch. Some gentle persuasion was employed to bring the canopy as far forward as I could get it without (hopefully) overstressing any of the structure. The end result looks better here in the photo than it does in the flesh. At least I have a chance of making this work - in a slap-dash sort of way. There's still a decent trench to be infilled though. In regards to you comment about the level-ity of the canopy Ian, there's about a 0.5mm difference between the front and rear on one side and just under a millimeter on t'other side. It's not very noticeable and I think once the greeblies are scattered around, they should confuse the eyes enough to make it imperceptible. I used masking tape to protect the windscreen and troweled the milliput into the chasm, and smooshed it down as best as I could. This is first pass with the micromesh. while the milliput was being thrashed around I threw some on the tail pylon as it needs quite some modification. This is first pass with ye old Fyle and before I checked the drawings closely enough to realize I had taken too much off the back end. Cue second application of the yellow stuff. Since I can't really paint anything at the moment I can at least enjoy the 3D'ing. I had a bash at the blower-sucker motor. I should have shown the kit part as comparison - it's sort of laughable. This was created purely by guesstimating from photos and estimating ratios between the blower and the Nimbus. Yup. It was too big to fit on the deck. It didn't die in vain though. It was useful to use as a reference for reducing feature sizes on the second version. I probably spent about 2 hours on the initial design, then maybe 15 minutes on the edits. Left side = original. Right side = this blower has been resized to fit the screen and edited for content. But does it fit? Just and only just. The more I looked at the Nimbii the unhappier I was with my coloring in. I think I've gone too far with the weathering and I doubt if they would ever have looked that grubby in service. I think Giorgio should volunteer to paint all my engines and exhausts for me but he's so selfish Therefore... and you probably know where this is going Since I was printing stuff anyway, I made a few greeble edits and printed another couple of engines. There's slightly more detail on a few parts (all of which is damn near invisible at this scale) but the major addition is the engine supports at the front which I only spotted recently on some photos. Hereby endeth this weeks jamboree. No badges for coloring in, but I might be a good way to earning my 3D printing badge by now. New compressor is on order and should arrive late Sunday so I probably will not get a chance to try it out before I skive off on another jolly up North. Dib Dib, be prepared chaps, and keep those masks handy
  11. Aawwww. No tropical nose filter? That's a shame Bill. Your work looks top notch so far. As always, I am in awe of your plunging skills and I think this one will surpass even your previous masterpiece, which is no mean feat
  12. Regarding some comments re: designing in CAD at 1:1. In a perfect world, yes, and wherever possible I always try to do that. However, when designing for 3d printing, it's not as simple as that. You can't scale down an aircraft skin for example, and expect it to print successfully. Also, take into account that the actual models, though they may be advertised as 1/72, may not be exactly 1/72, and the model designers will have changed certain feature sizes for any number of reasons. If you design at full size then have to back and edit features to make them printable, it can be a real pita. Therefore, when designing parts for printing, I'll take my cues from the actual model and design accordingly - oftentimes that is "so it looks right". If I have a reference dimension to use then great, but I may still end up adjusting the part to look better on the finished model. On the Wapiti for instance, I designed that at 1/48 scale from the outset. That way I could adjust features as I went along as I know anything under 0.02mm is unlikely to print - depending upon the underlying structure and any supporting features of course. There are a few features on the Wapiti that are deliberately overscaled because they're prominent on the actual aircraft and they needed to be represented in print somehow.
  13. What a coincidence Ian, most of my transparencies end up looking like my nail clippings.
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