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hendie

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hendie last won the day on December 29 2017

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About hendie

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  1. FYI, I use Chitubox in conjunction with Photon File Validator which I have found to be invaluable. I create my slice file in Chitubox then run it through Photon. - Photon will pick up any "islands" or unsupported surfaces which could lead to a failed print. It identifies the islands, and also which layer they are on which is really useful as I can then add a support manually in Chitubox. It also has some simple "fix" functions to eliminate islands of a few pixels.
  2. No. It's really an entry range machine with an exceptional (for the price <$250) detail capability. Clean up is all manual, but really only takes a few minutes - but for the price I am prepared to put up with that. Set up is really easy. My biggest bugbear is with the (Chitubox) software, but it is getting better and the support team are responsive. To be honest, I've never noticed any smell from the resin, but you're right - it can get everywhere. I cover the work area with a large plastic sheet and clean up immediately after printing. The main selling points for me were: Price, ease of use, and resolution of print. It's not something I'm going to use every day but provides everything I need to use on an occasional basis. If it was something that I was going to be using heavily, I would have invested in a higher specified machine, but for what I need it to do, this machine was a no-brainer.
  3. Thanks Tony, I'll look into those. I was tempted to go down the laser printer route but DPI seems to come at a premium with those compared to inkjet. My last few printers have been Epson and I've been very happy with the print quality, but due to infrequent use, the print heads just jammed up and I can't get my current model to print anything at all even though I appear to have a good ink supply. Now I hear that Epson have introduced a chip and will only work with genuine Epson cartridges - which I always use - but hate the idea of manufacturers locking you down like that. I'm not sure if a cheap laser printer will give me the resolution I need for stencil markings, with text in the sub-millimeter height range. More research needed. I think I'm now resigned to this is going to take what it is going to take. After my weekend transfer sticking, when I looked at the beast, I realized the serial on the tail is angled down slightly and is driving me nuts. I followed a Fly panel line (yes, I really should know better by now). I'm going to try and remove it by micro-meshing. Unfortunately the Extradecal sheet only gives 2 of each letter in that size, so I've had to order another decal sheet, along with some roundels. I really want to put this build behind me and move on to something else, but Fly seem determined to dash me at every turn.
  4. The resin printers are much more user buffoon friendly. I've read horror stories of trying to get the bed level, and just general set up on filament printers. Set up on the Elegoo Mars 3D Printer takes all of a minute - I always level the head before every print but it is a very, very simple process. The thing that sold me on this was the print resolution. It's something like .047 mm in the X & Y axes, and down to .01 mm in the Z axis. The print envelope is roughly 120 mm x 70 mm x 150 mm high so it's capable of printing pretty much anything I plan on making over the next bunch of years. Resin is relatively inexpensive and what you don't use goes back in the bottle so there's very little waste. I've only done a few prints but I have to say that I have been completely blown away by the quality of output from this machine
  5. On the Shapeways print I noticed some light striations on the vent section, so thought having it lay flat would eliminate those visual marks as the outer surface would be printed as one complete layer. The main windows were printed upright mainly because in one of them there is a 0.2mm slot along the length and I thought it would be impossible to fit supports into that small a gap. If I printed them laying flat there would be solid layers, then no layers for .2mm and then another solid layer - I thought it may detach and end up with an incomplete print I also took the anti aliasing down to 2 and that seems to have sharpened up the detail. I might experiment with no anti-aliasing next time to see how much impact it really has. What I did find is that I can print detail that is far too delicate for me to handle. The luggage rack for example, has printed with all the detail, but the part is so flimsy I don't think I'll have a manageable way to handle it. The parts should have stiffened up a good deal from yesterday though. I was handling them while they were fresh out of the ultrasonic bath, so they were still warm and very pliable. I'll see what they are like when I get down there today
  6. I had considered it a while back Steve. Of course, Sod's Law dictated that my printer packed in about two weeks ago so I'd need to source a new one. To some folks that may sound like an easy process, but for me it involves a seemingly endless round of evaluating cost vs quality vs reviews vs personal bias and so on. you do raise a good point though, and something I didn't consider yesterday - thanks
  7. Then wait no longer sir. I had a bit of an issue with the software upgrade this week, but the support team provided a fix, so the models were prepared and set up for printing Files then transferred to the printer... everything looking good but when it started printing, it appeared to be printing a solid block of plastic... not good! I stopped the print and investigated, and sure enough, it was printing one big solid block of plastic. Not good. Thankfully, I have a newer laptop in the basement which appeared to have accepted the upgrade without any issues so I reran the files on that laptop and tried again This time it appears to be printing the correct parts - in case you are wondering - those shapes are the base of the print which attaches to the build plate After a couple of hours it appears we have success. It always looks so bland when it first comes out of the tank but a quick wash in IPA and the details starts to show Some quick clean and the prints are a success. The luggage rack is incredibly flimsy so I may have to do some redesign work there to beef it up a bit. Very pleased with the diamond window though adn with the main windows though again, I may tweak the design just a touch next time around.
  8. Today. Hhhhmmmnnnn. The bin was close. Very close. It was tempting. Very tempting. That damned Fly thing very nearly ended up in it today. But first a roundup of the weeks happenings such as fitting the last of the brass handles. Uneventful, but satisfying. Then a touch of black for the fuel points Stating to look as if there is a finish line ahead, somewhere. A spare half hour saw me getting the gloss coat on. The 28 SQN Pegasii went on the tail at last. Looking not too shabby though they are a tad on the small side - but they'll do. All in all, the tail doesn't look too bad despite the earlier damage. and from the other side... That was all straightforward stuff, all going according to plan. Until today that is. The morning started off with discovering that the gloss coat has some white'ish marks here and there. Now whether those will disappear under another gloss coat and a flat coat remains to be seen. Today's plan was to get at least one side of the transfers done and I Started off with the Alpha on the nose. Easy peasy. Then it all went south. I had to use individual characters for the serial, and that went okay - until I went to add some MicroS2 - I just touched the brush to the X and a chunk of it came away. Damn. After that it went from bad to worse. I managed to get one or two (Caracal) decals in place. Most of the Fly transfers are completely unusable. Their stencils are the size of bill boards. Riddled with spelling errors - Stripe instead of Strip. Acess instead of Access Graphics such as the jacking point are about 4 times the size they should be Most of the other graphics aren't even included. - Such as the arrows for the handles Close - Open etc. No roundels for the airframe I am depicting. The transfers that are actually usable are the wrong color. Fly provide a black version and a white version (28 SQN stencils were yellow), and when they do provide a yellow version, there aren't enough. After about 4 hours of increasing frustration I walked away and when I came back I started on the cabin step, but soon left that as the mojo was not cooperating much. I'm not sure what I am going to do with this regarding transfers. I think it will end up missing most of them. Does anyone have a good paint reference for the roundel colors?
  9. Gators grip is good for gluing cats to rugs ? Good to know, thanks! Lovely engreebling going on there Tony. Wipers look very swishy
  10. not in Scotland! What's the law that states when you are using very, very sharp tweezers that you have to impale yourself at least twice drawing substantial amounts of blood ? Are tweezers like Kukri's? You're not allowed to put them back until you have drawn blood? If they're missing, how can you look at them? this forum has gets me all confused at times
  11. Not guilty! nice update Ced. Tripodery at it's finest.
  12. Well, there are almost twice as many settings there as there are in V1.5 - none of those settings on the right are incorporated in 1.5 though I don't suspect they alter the final outcome much To the credit of the Chitubox chitterers - I sent them an email last night when I downloaded 1.6.1 and discovered it didn't work on my system. This afternoon when I got home there was an email from the support team with a new .exe file. Copied that into the root directory and everything worked as advertised - so far - I haven't actually printed anything yet. I also downloaded 1.6.1 on my basement laptop - and it ran fine without having to stir in the new exe.
  13. Tony - care to share what your print settings were for these? I'm planning on running some parts this weekend and wondered what you were using for exposure times and layer height etc.
  14. Luggage rack Luggage rack V2. Probably won't do this one and try using brass mesh on the rack above Main window. This version requires that I cut individual panes of glass to fit in the openings - with a land of about .25mm! I've also done a second version which has a slit along the length so if it all goes well, I just need to cut one rectangle of glass and it will just slot into the frame, without having to be so accurate in my cutting. The new diamond window is on the right, old version on the left. I noticed that the top of the vent (on top of window) should be in line with the top edge of the main windows Provided there are no distractions this weekend, I should get some printing done.
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