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hendie last won the day on December 29 2017

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  1. Bonus episode this week. First, the pigeon post Thanks LS, she's a mother all right Stunning as I can say that I'm a bit dazed by it all? Oh I just knew you were going to stick your oar in and come up with that suggestion Tony . It has been seriously contemplated by the inner workings of the Hendacranium and I have made headway on producing a former for the buck. To be honest, the reason I didn't just go right there in the first place is that I have never had any luck producing a clear vac-form. Any other vac-form and it's Zap, Suck, and Bob's yer uncle. Clear? Never works for me, but I'll give it a go just so you lot can have a laugh Bill - you are the MASTER of producing clear canopies from a rabbits bum. I can't even end up with a clear canopy when I start off with a clear canopy The canopy issues could well be of my own making Colin. I seem to remember that I did some test fits early on before I started hacking about things. I don't remember anything untoward at that time. I could well have forced the fuselage a little wider jamming all that interior in there though it seemed to fit without any issues, and I didn't have any problems closing it up. More on those wheels later in this episode Pitfalls? Nah. The occasional mineshaft and some abrupt sink holes to be sure. Thanks Ian. Aren't you supposed to blether something about great minds thinking alike? Thanks SD. More desperate than inventive but we keep ploughing on Thanks to Ian's telepathic suggestion, the front windows got a spar of donor plastic down the middle to widen the overall frame. Now both the port and the starboard side line up. But we have a little bit of a step here at the front. Where did that come from? Doesn't really matter does it cos it looks like it's here to stay now Prior to the oh why don't you just vacuform a new one chorus, I added a thin strip of BMF down the center to see if I could get away with using the kit part (in a push of course). I dunno who keeps letting these elephants into the room but there's only me here so I keep having to deal with them, one bite at a time. That windscreen step isn't going anywhere so it made sense to deal with it before I get too involved in something else. Surface prep Surface slobber The milliput was smoothed down as much as possible and left for an hour or so before I attempted to remove the windscreen. It came away leaving a good seam though there's always going to be some more seaming and sanding when it comes time to fit the chosen option, be it kit part or vacu-form. The following day the milliput was sanded back. I tried to keep that window to fuselage transition line as uniform and straight as possible in the hope that when it's painted it looks like a real panel. I might have some more shaping and sanding to do in that respect. Some more metalwork was an indulgence to keep the insanity at bay. The "bellows" was made up from two small slivers of plastic tube, and I coiled some wire up for the actual bellows part. Once painted up it should be presentable, 'specially as most folk will be staring at the 'orribly formed, clouded, home brewed, vac-formed windscreen in disbelief While we were dealing with things of an undercarriagey ilk, some more brass rod fell out of the drawer leading me to turn a little damper unit from a larger piece of brass rod. which was then duly assembled at the back end. The bump stop was scratched from a piece of spare runner, and other assorted scraps were repurposed to form a mounting bracket at the fuselage end. In that photo above you can also see the replacement 'panels' made this time from BMF. I'm a lot happier with the effect the BMF presents as opposed to the aluminum tape which was way too thick for this purpose. Oh - and look. I used a kit part The horizontal stabilizers from the kit were actually a very good match to the drawings, profile wise they were spot on, albeit a tad too long. Simple job to cut them down to length and a much more complex job drilling them out to accept a piece of .8mm diameter rod speared through the tail boom. The jury is still out on their chance of longevity given the oaf who's in charge of handling this thing Still under some delusions of being able to close this thing up I remembered that I had still not gotten around to scratching the overhead console. I could only find one photo of a WW console and most of the knobs n bobs had been removed so I just made one up. Complete fantasy, but it was fun. I even remembered to add the rotor brake and this time I even had it in the rotors locked position. I did search and in vain it was, for a photo of an actual WW rotor brake but couldn't find anything so I am assuming (yes, dangerous) that the WW actually had the rotor brake fitted overhead, and in the general vicinity of the console. Photo's of the H19 showed a floor mounted rotor brake that looked like an old handbrake and it was fitted on the port side, but none of the cockpit shots I had of a WW showed any levers similar to that - so overhead it went. Paint was spilled, a few wires added, and a blob of PVA on the end of the handle to make a nice round bally thing. Take a last look ... before it disappears in here never to be seen again. (That brake lever could do with being in a slightly more forward position couldn't it?) Shocking isn't the word for it Colin. Cavemen could have fashioned a better wheel than Revell. To my knowledge there are no aftermarket add-ons. Weird, given that there isn't a kit either - just what do the aftermarket bods get up to these days? There was obviously no rescuing those vaguely roundish stepped donuts so today was spent on the compooter making round things. The main wheel was quite straightforward though all I had to go on were my very basic measurements of a pixelated drawing. i.e. Diameter and width. So it was pretty much guesswork on dimensions and constant reference to photos The front wheels proved a bit more challenging particularly when it came to getting that diamond pattern tread on the outer rims. My best guess was that the mainwheel is around 12.5mm in diameter with the front wheels being somewhere in the region of 9.25mm in diameter. Given the pixilation and the line width of the drawings, I could be as much as 0.5mm out but this seemed like a good starting point. Yes, I'm going to print them. So there!
  2. thanks guys. you're all very generous with your comments. As last weeks episode drew to an end I said something along the lines of I think I have also stated that I was going to try good old fashioned scratch building and avoid 3D printing. I may have to revise my statement around that. I know now for certain that I shall have to print the wheels as the kit offerings are not in any way, shape or form, even remotely wheel shaped. Then I found another perfectly valid reason to use the printer - the window surrounds. I've been mulling this over for a few weeks and going through all the possible options, which, it has to be said were pretty limited: Hand painting, decals, and perhaps thread of some sort. Hand painting was definitely out. I really couldn't see thread working at all, and decals, well, it was a possibility but at some point I'd have decal sheet over the window as I could never trim decals that accurately and it did raise another few problems. The biggest issue facing me at the moment is accurately masking the windows so I can prime the beast. What if I designed a window rubber like this? and what if I did it for all the windows - with plenty spares just in case. But instead of printing them on supports as I normally would, I just printed them directly onto the build plate, thus ensuring the back face of each support was perfectly flat and wouldn't require any sanding or trimming. What would happen if I did that then? Perhaps I would get a useable window rubber that I would serve several purposes It would probably work as the window rubber itself and I could probably use the parts as templates to cut out the masking for the windows. All I would need to do was make sure I cut the masking tape so that it covered the inside edge of the window rubber, and didn't extend past the outer edge of the window rubber. I wouldn't even have to worry about making nice round corners. Oh I dunno. Do you think it's worth a try? What are the chances of it working? I think it needs a little bit of tweaking but I think it's going to work. Never having printed directly on the build plate before I probably had the exposure times wrong and got some light bleed which resulted in losing some of the detail, but other than that I was fairly pleased with the outcome. The surrounds were designed at 0.7mm wide but came out closer to 0.9mm wide which was due I think to the exposure times being so long I'll make the tweaks and also add the 4 small windows up top (which I had forgotten about this time around) and redo the print. The plan is also to print some forming bucks for the sliding windows as I already cut up the kit parts for use elsewhere cos they certainly weren't any good as the sliding windows. Anyways, now that I had a method for cutting the window masks, all I had to do was line up some guide strips to ensure I had things aligned properly and I could stick the masks in place and guide strips removed. Looks like the plan may actually work Progressively progressing along with this build is a good feeling. There are times when I seem to spend a lot of effort and time for very little gain, at least visually. It's time to change that and make a massive leap forward. As I was working on these windows it occurred to me that there is also a window on the cabin door. If you remember back, the kit door was molded as part of the fuselage and I had removed that to get access to the cabin area. Now I had to make a door. I started with the usual sheet styrene, measured carefully, cut it to shape and then wondered how I was going to cut the window aperture into the door accurately. Then how would I cut the window accurately? Then how would I affix the window in the door making sure it was flush and so on and so on until... Yes, my brain finally woke up and started working - why didn't I just make the entire door from clear stuff and then all I would have to do is mask the window, then peel off the masking after the painting was done and I'd have a perfectly flush window. I did check that this stuff works with TET before I put too much effort into it. There was no point in making a door I couldn't attach to the airframe now was there? I used BMF to represent some paneling and stop it looking too uniformly flat. Handles were added from brass rod, and a small block of styrene to act as the bulgey sticky outy thing By now I was starting to get all excited thinking that I may actually get this thing closed up and primed before the Xmas hols. Then I tried the cockpit window. I wasn't so excited anymore. It's a bit difficult to tell from this photo, but the windscreen is sitting flush with the port side. With the starboard side, not so much. The windscreen is too narrow and there's quite a step there - way too much to get taken care of by filling and sanding alone. But if I cut it down the middle then surely the port sid ewill match up with the port side and the starboard side will match up with the starboard side? Or am I missing something? A big strip down the middle apparently Easily taken care of though So while that glue was curing - this needs to work and be string so no TET here, that was good old fashioned styrene cement that was - I made a bunch of grab handles and stuck them in some holes drilled all over the fuselage. Will all these crazy ideas work? Who knows? At this point I'm grasping at straws and making things up as I go along. Plans are for wimps. The kit windscreen is a bit thick and less than optically perfect, but as I keep reminding myself, this is a fun build and I don't want to tie myself in knots trying to make a 60+ year old kit look like a state of the art masterpiece. I'm just trying to give it a new lease of life, and fill a hole in the 28 Sqn shelf lineup. If the windscreen doesn't pass muster once I've glued in a fill strip it doesn't really matter - I would still have had to go through these steps in order to make a master that I can vacuform over (or so I've told myself). PETG sheets are on the way for the sliding windows, and I may have a bash at the windscreen as well. I'm completely undecided at the moment. Stay tuned for the next exciting episode folks.
  3. Horrid, you say. Hmmnnn, I feel no pain whatsoever as I sit here and gaze in awe of the craftsmanship
  4. Astounding that is Bill. Even at this early stage it's easy to see what a work of art this is going to be
  5. Giorgio, for the gauges on my WW build I used a small brush to add a drop of thinners into the gauge first, before adding paint. The thinners spread out nicely to form a nice round pool - then I touched a drop of black paint into the pool of thinners and hey presto, nice round black discs. The same method should work with other shapes too. That IP is coming along nicely
  6. thanks for all the replies and suggestions folks. Feeling a bit under the weather at the moment so the brain isn't working well enough to respond individually so you'll have to forgive me (or thank me) for not dealing with the pigeon post this eopisode. Where were we? Oh. Greeble greeble greeble. That's where we were weren't we. I had two more SACRU brackets to manufacture so another piece of PE fret was sourced. First of all I drilled the holes - much easier to do this now than when I'm dealing with a ridiculously small bracket, and if I stuff up the hole positions, I have put a whole lot of effort into the bracket. Once the holes were drilled, I scored the PE with a blade - the top horizontal score is the fold line (only 3 or 4 strokes) and the lower horizontal is the cut line (5 or 6 strokes). The brackets were removed from the fret, radii filed, folded, and then fitted to the fuselage with the aid of some ss rivets, just as before. I still have a fair amount of greebling to accomplish but thought I should attack some of the more difficult jobs. There's nothing worse than coming to a point in a build where all you have is the jobs you've been avoiding, so interspersing them between greebles takes some of the pain away. In this instance, it's the turn of the grill at the back of the doghouse/beetleback/lumpy thing. My first attempt involved using masking tape to cut a template then transfer that to some brass mesh. I wasted the best part of an hour on that before giving up. The main issue was that the brass mesh was so fine, id didn't want to hold its shape and deformed very easily. A change of plan was required. This time I added the vertical support to the fuselage, then cyano'd the brass mesh onto that. Then strand by strand, I cut the mesh with a fresh blade. This went a lot easier. Once all the trimming was done I applied cyano around the edges to help hold things in place. Next was the frame. This is the thinnest styrene sheet I had, around .2mm and it still looks way overscale. I took a file to the styrene and thinned it down as much as I could before it started breaking away. A coat of paint should hide a lot of sins here. You all were correct about the aluminum tape being overscale. I primed the back end to see how things were doing and the tape I had added on the tail pylon looked nasty, so I used the tape as a scribing guide and went around the nose before removing the tape. Did I mention my scribing skills are crap? I used an old toothbrush (the wife has hidden hers now) to remove the crud from the scribe lines, then micromeshed over that to try and smooth things down. That was reasonable successful but made things really difficult when I had removed the primer as it was very difficult to judge how deep the lines were on white resin, not to mention bloomin' awkward to see where you're actually scribing. Under the delusion that I had done a decent job scribing, it was time to go for the very distinctive hinge that runs along the nose on both sides. I deepened the top panel line as much as I dared - my plan being to cyano some plastic rod in the groove. The smallest diameter rod I had was 0.4mm. I had some smaller diameter wire, but metal and cyano are hopeless and I knew that the hinge would fall out at some point. At least the plastic rod had a chance of staying put once done. Another challenge here was making sure that things looked symmetrical and the two hinges finished level at the front. Surprisingly, it looks like things worked out. As a reward more greeblies were fired at the nose. Two vertical hinges, two horizontal hinges, and a reinforcement plate for the latching handle. There is still a bunch of bits to be added, mainly grab handles, but I needed to see how things were looking so it was prime time. As mentioned above, the aluminum tape on the pylon looks a bit industrial. I removed this as my afternoon session and replaced it with BMF which is looking much better. It's always good to see how the primer unifies everything and makes it start to look like an actual aircraft. Obviously, there's still a lot of tidying up to do. Front end is looking decent at this stage. Just prior to primer I decided to cut out the fire panels on the nose - with no idea how I'm going to work this through. The fire access panels on the WW appear different from those on the Wessex. The Wessex fire access is through two hinged panels, while the WW appears to be 3 angled slats. Another bridge to cross later. I was very happy with how the grill turned out despite some of the 'frame' breaking away when I was smoothing things down. Some Mr Dissolved Putty should take care of that in a jif. Some of the aluminum tape panels looked a bit rough so I may have been too heavy with the burnishing. I'll micromesh those and see how they turn out, and if necessary go ahead and replace them. The underside is looking helicoptery busy. Here you can see what I mean about it being very difficult to judge how deep the scribe lines were on white resin - some of them have all but disappeared under paint, and I thought I had gone quite deep on some of them. Overall though I am quite happy with how things are progressing. It could have been a lot worse. The next session promises to be very interesting and challenging. I would like to finish priming and finish all the tidying up, but the windows have been holding me back as I had no real idea of how I was going to accomplish the distinctive rubber seals. I think I have a plan and feel quietly confident that it's going to work. Or not. We'll see.
  7. I need to get me one o' them clocks. Around here it's always chores o' clock Nice bracketry and brakery Bill.
  8. thank the lord for small mercies. For a fleeting moment there I thought I was going to have to teach myself how to smelt aluminum and invest in some new equipment. I wish I had thought of that process for the recent rhinoplasty casting festival - I think it would have been much easier to keep detail throughout the sanding process, though it'll be a right pita to scribe Great re-entrance Tony.
  9. Scots word for very small, tiny, miniscule etc. Giorgio Not to be confused with the English word tottie which had a totally different definition
  10. let's get the pigeon post dealt with first I probably borrowed it from somewhere else so feel free it's almost as if the colorant is migrating to the surface - very strange you're welcome Wichie anyone know a lawyer round these here parts? don't worry Terry - the nerve wracking exhaust hole episode is not yet over. I've no idea yet how to make the exhaust, particularly the curved section which end SD ? I think I'm still closer to the front end than the back end but of course Crisp I've no idea what they used as a colorant back then but it's definitely migrating to the surface thanks Johnny Thanks G! For sublime, read problematic... I just had horrible visions of Gene Simmons licking the plastic Living in the US has severely diminished my control of the language Tony Thanks Colin. Great story too. I certainly would not fancy having to cut through a rotor blade with a hacksaw. Chainsaw maybe. Phew, pigeons fed and watered. Now the important stuff - more greebles. It's been a hectic few days rounding up groundhogs. We knew we had a groundhog living in the yard and I had been trying to catch him for nearly two years but the blighter kept stealing all the melon (apparently the go-to groundhog bait) and not getting caught in the trap... until about two months ago! Oh how I leapt with joy when I saw the trap had been sprung and there was a groundhog in there. I'm a bit of a sucker when it comes to wildlife so I've been using a humane trap - all the literature states that you should take them at least 5 miles away before you release them, so just to be on the safe side, I take them about 25 miles. I checked him for a GPS before I released him, and he wasn't carrying, so I figured I was safe. Falling for the old literature trick again, I read that groundhogs are solitary and a bit territorial, so I figured I'd caught him and we were safe... until a few days ago when I spotted another. I shouldn't be surprised really - as SWMBO stated - we're sitting on some real prime groundhog real estate now - Previous owner removed, tunnels already dug, multiple entrance/exits - in move-in condition. Anyhoos, the trap was set again, and I caught this little sod within 24 hours. Cue another 25 mile drive. Now, being a bit cautious I thought I should set the trap again - just in case, y'know, and lo and behold, I caught another one just before lunchtime today. Back in the car.... released him, drove back home, set the trap up again (just in case), then went to work for an hour, drove home and what was waiting fr me but yet another bloody groundhog. Now either Bob had got a direct tunnel from where I released him straight back to my yard, or there's a colony of the sods living under my shed. Trap has been set again - this is costing me a fortune in gas and cantaloupes But I digress, you're not here for Tales from Hendie's backyard are you? You lot want greebles. Well, here's an easy one to start with. I turned this anti-collision lamp base on the lathe from brass stock Some scrap runner was rescued and repurposed as a base for a couple of aerials, with PE bling (ignore the aluminum tape for now - I'll deal with that later) Then it was time to get serious with the greebling. This was something I should have dealt with (along with several other somethings) before I closed up the fuselage - the fuel filler cap. Easy I thought - I'll just use the old step drills. A simple plan I thought , but the gods had other ideas. Right where the fuel filler cap is located was adjacent to the earlier rhinoplasty, and I had placed a number of support blocks in that area. Unfortunately, the fuel filler location was half over one of the blocks so when I started to drill, the block forced the drill to wander. I carried on the best I could to clean up the hole and got it looking decent, if not completely circular. Then I had a brainwave. Have lathe, will greeble - so I made this out of focus top hat, where the rim of the hat would sit on the surface of the plastic and hide and irregularity on the hole diameter, and I could fit the filler cap inside the top hat. I could say pure genius, but it's really more of a nice save. I managed to get the rim of the hat down to around .001" thickness so it's not obtrusive, and I think works really well. More greebles were hunted down and captured, this time in the form of SACRU brackets salvaged from some PE fret. These are for the rear attachment points and each bracket is approximately 2mm wide by 3mm deep. I found some ss rivets to use as fixings as I simply do not trust cyano to fix brass to plastic without some mechanical method being employed in addition. A good fight ensued and the rivets nearly won, but not quite. The rivets enter the fuselage on the curve so are angled up towards the brass tube I have located for the undercarriage so that meant I had to trim each rivet down to approx 2mm in length and then cyano the little ***** in place Another greeble hunting expedition resulted in these trophies. All from plasticard which has been micromeshed to remove as much thickness as I could without destroying the detail. The rectangular thingy on the right was a second attempt. I had made the first version from flat sheet before I found a photo that showed the cover as being curved, so that was made by slicing a small length of tube, then adding the end pieces, then removing one end cos it was too big, and cutting it down. Several times. Measure once cut thrice as they say. The fuselage lower step was one of the hardest greebles to manufacture. The top surface angles quite sharply off the fuselage, then folds back under itself to meet with the fuselage again. My original tries included cutting small rectangular sections of plasticard, but it never looked right. Eventually I settled on using sections of 1/71 Wessex rotor blade, trailing edge to trailing edge and that looks like it's working. The white sticky-outy bit just beyond the step is some form of bracket which is still to be trimmed to shape. Now lets get back to that aluminum tape that photo-bombed one of my previous shots. The tropical fit HAr10 has a distinctive (at least I think so) band around the nose, immediately aft of the tropical filter. My first thought was to use a 2mm wide strip of the tape but it soon became obvious that was not going to work as I tried to smooth the tape down around the curves. Like myself, just too many wrinkles. After a little while, common sense kicked in and I took the wrap it in masking tape and trace out the line option, which appeared much more logical. Well that was fine for getting the edge right at the nose joint, but how could I get the parallel line 2mm back from that? The obvious answer would be to use some dividers set at 2mm and just follow the first edge. It shames me to admit that I do not own a set of dividers capable of such a task. I do have one set but they are really cheap and nasty and the tips don't line up. Therefore I had to resort to some skullduggery involving some square rod, round rod, and a pencil. I had some 2mm square tube, so I glued a round rod perpendicular to the square while having a piece of aluminum tape placed under the square rod. This meant that the round rod protruded past the square rod just enough for me to use it as a guide around the edge of the aluminum tape. I think that makes sense? I then used jig that to follow the inside edge of the tape and penciled in a 2mm offset Then all I had to do was cut it. Several times Before I got one I was happy with. The 2mm strip was then applied around the nose - instantly regretting the fact that I had not marked a datum point on the nose and tape to allow me to align it properly. Perseverance saved the day and it was eventually fitted and burnished down with a cotton bud. It's still not perfect, but I'm not sure I can get any better than this With the band in place it was time to confront my nemesis - scribing. Scribing frightens me, it really does. So many folks here on BM manage a fantastic job every time, but my scribed lines always look like they were done by a 5 year old. Without looking at it. It was one of those days wasn't it? I spent ages trying to figure out different methods of how to transfer the dimensions of the panel lines on the nose onto the kit before that 'doh! moment Just cut the panel out of the drawings and stick it on the nose. I think the phrase is not-very-smart-donkey or something along those lines. But being an inveterate coward I was too afraid to carve into the nose just yet so I tried it out on one of the several proboscides I had cast weeks ago. Even though this was just a trial run it was still nerve jangling. I think I finally convinced myself I can do it though - I just need to be very very, very, very, very, very careful. The white bits are trials at replicating the prominent hinge line of the panel - I keep scribing the panel line until it is deep enough for a .4mm diameter rod to sit into, leaving most of it proud of the surface. It looks like it's going to work, but getting cyano into that small groove neatly, and quick enough before it starts setting up is another job that I'd rather not be doing. And now a question for the congregation: I went to all that trouble to make the 2mm wide "panel" around the nose with aluminum tape, and now I'm not so sure how it's going to look. Should I just remove it and scribe the panel line instead? Here's a shot of the 1:1 That panel doesn't seem so obvious in this shot, while in other photos it can, so I really can't make my mind up Thoughts?
  11. Oooh, real toatie stuff Giorgio. Nicely snuggled in that IP. That should look the biz when painted up
  12. Lovely paint job ( as always) Johnny. I'm way too impatient and clumsy to do those light passes and always end up with solid flat color. How long do you wait between passes?
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