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hendie last won the day on December 29 2017

hendie had the most liked content!

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About hendie

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    Stator of the Blessed Obviance

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  1. incredible work Ian. that support structure for the canopy is excellent, though it could easily have been one of these moments
  2. Ced you might get on a bit better if you add some water to that sponge. It will still clean the tip though I keep some fine wire wool for that. I use the (wetted!) sponge to wipe of any excess build up of solder on the tip
  3. Just like that - yes. By the time I got to the eighteenth attempt it was easy! Given the lack of photographic evidence this is becoming more of a "What-if-maybe-it-did?" and Tunisia, Persil, and Defense, just to name a few others. And my pet hate - learn the bloody difference between Insure, Ensure and Assure! It's really not that hard. Oh, and Asterix is a Gaulish Warrior, not a flippin' punctuation mark! Thanks Martian, more of a slight wobbly shuffle today though With the train transfers choo-chooing their way across the oggin to me I took a day off work to try and take the sting out of this Venom in preparation for jumping back to the other build, but alas twas not to be. I had a load of those "little" jobs that seem to take forever to put to bed. I did however manage to find a photo of the last Venom in Hong Kong and though the photo isn't particularly clear I did make out some greeblies that needed adding, such as hard points This is the kit rocket rail. Somehow I don't think I shall be attaching that to this Venom, though I should at least include the mounting points. Searching around I came across some PE from my DB5 build of many years ago which looked promising. Nice little stainless discs. On top of those I used a piece of - wait for it... Fly kit!!! There was a door rail I hadn't used so I cut some 1mm length sections and glued those on top of the ss discs. It's certainly not accurate but at a glance on a fast drive by they should look okay. That is to say, they should look better than nothing at all. Also added were a tail lamp, a backwards pointing thingy along with some reinforcing panels around the undercarriage bays The photo of the last Venom in HK showed the a/c with pylons fitted but no load. I found these pylons in the kit though the instructions make no mention of them, but decided that more greeblies were needed to add some visual landscaping Then from an aerial shot of an FB4 I spotted something that looked like weld lines or maybe pressed channels on the underside. The railroad resin transfers I have had some "vents" which looked perfect for the job. It's starting to look suitably greebled by now. Oops - forgot to mention, the HK photo also shows two aerials protruding awkwardly from the underside. I guess if it's a Venom it'll need fangs then? They have since been removed as they've bitten me on at least two occasions with those sharpies so they'll get refitted later on in the build. There was no getting around the fact that I needed to add the canopy before it went to the paint shop. After studying available photo's I realized that the kit canopy only bears a passing resemblance to the 1:1. Me being me thought I could wing it and use the masking to make things appear right... then carelessly dragged a nice sharp blade across the front of the windscreen! Arghhh. That was after I had dipped them in floor polish and for the first time in my life got a canopy that looked batter after the dip than it did before. You can see the scratch just below the masking on the windscreen. Luckily (or maybe just wishful thinking), the 1:1 windscreen is not as long as Classic have molded it so I think I can perhaps get away with it. The windscreen will have to be blended in after the putty has cured. Then a test fit showed that the rear canopy doesn't quite meet up with the front part - a nice little gap here and a larger gap on the other side. Looks like I will be having this one in the cabinet with the canopy open then. Then I got fed up faffing about and decided to squirt primer on it so I can figure out which areas need more work. Those little vents on the spine turned out fine. I am officially a Mr Dissolved Putty fan now. I'm finding all sorts of uses for the stuff. Underside is looking good - just needs a good micro-thrashing and it'll be ready for final color Though I prefer this stance - it looks a bit more dynamic and aggressive Last job for today since I'm waiting on putty to dry before I can sand the Venom was to paint the rear canopy. I can't believe I actually found some dashed yellow lines small enough to fit on the canopy rail - and from the Fly kit again. In preparation for painting I started checking the Classic painting guide. Their guide states dark green and dark grey over PR blue. But take a look at @JasonC's photo of this airframe at Kai Tak That does not look like grey and green to me. Dark Earth & Dark Green with PR Blue underneath? This was a gate guard (I think) so is it possible they just repainted it with whatever they had? and I just noticed that you just about make out the cartridge chutes on the underside in that shot! So what do I do here? Classic's guide state grey and green for the scheme - as does every other painting guide I've come across, as are all the die cast models. Is that just a rogue paint scheme in the shot above, or is it real? Thoughts from the hive?
  4. It's a Fly kit. Of course it's inaccurate!
  5. about bloomin' time. That's all I can say. Worth the wait though. I look forward to your fun and games with the rigging sir!
  6. Thanks Gorby - I thoroughly enjoyed the read. Just what I needed after a weekend of working on a Classic Airframes Venom
  7. Solder? The Scottish way of course. I pronounce the "l" Were they deflector blocks? or chutes? Oh well, too late now I couldn't believe it when the wife called to tell me. I'm sure Lady luck has worse things in store for me later on - she's obviously playing with me! Thanks Terry - I bit the bullet and made something up - rightly or wrongly, it's on there now. Today's adventures began with making lots of scrap brass. I had intended to make cartridge chutes though from what Pete mentioned I may have been better off attempting deflector blocks. In the absence of photographic evidence combined with the fact that I've already made them, we are now stuck with cartridge chutes. Anyways, brass, that's what I was trying to use. I set my calipers to 1mm, 4mm, 5mm and 8mm and used the point to scribe some markings on a piece of brass sheet. I then used those markings to scribe lines with a trusty old scrap blade. I thought it would be a relatively simple job to fold that up to make a rectangle. Wrong. It was a lot harder to do than to write about. Getting a rectangle that was actually rectangular and not a deformed irregular quadrilateral shape proved difficult, not helped by the fact that it was so small that any discrepancy in my scribing/measurement was magnified when it was all folded up. In the end I made a three sided "thing" and just soldered the last side on and filed off the excess - much easier. So we now have a cartridge chute It's a bit long though innit? The long square tube was cut into appropriate lengths and I then scribed a line at 1.75 mm from the bottom - this gave me a mark to align to the fuselage when the chute was inserted. In hindsight this would all have been a lot easier had I done this before I closed up the fuselage - but where's the fun in that? Once in position, they were ca'd in place and once again Mr Dissolved putty was used to fill in any remaining gaps around the chutes. Side view. Front view. Okay, even if it's wrong I'm still quite pleased with how it's turned out. Given the historic importance of such an aircraft, I am really surprised at the lack of good period photo's, particularly of the underside. There are a few good shots of the restored flying versions but I'm not sure what details and features can be trusted. One thing I have noticed on my references is that the lower nose panel was fitted with a number of Dzus fasteners and they are quite prominent, so it was out with the railroad resin transfers and some Dzus fasteners, okay then, rivets were added. On this aircraft, they almost count as greeblies. Now, this has been bugging me. There's a pitot tube on the tail fin and of course it's not included in the kit, though they do include a sketch of the part and tell you to make it yourself - along with a bunch of other little bits. The biggest issue is I am sure they have the tail fin incorrect. Look at this - it's razor sharp! Photo's of the 1:1 show a nice rounded leading edge. You could damn near shave with this thing. Even using a 0.35mm (or was it 0.5mm?) tube doesn't leave much room to play with. My plan here is to ca the pitot in place then build up with more ca and Mr Dissolved Putty (yes, I am really coming to love that stuff) Once I've built up the shape I can refine it with some careful carving/filing Then to finish off todays session I added another couple of greeblies. I believe these are two small vents. I'm using small sections of rod and then (wait for it) Mr Dissolved Putty to blend the leading edge into the fuselage . You'll have to wait for the next episode to see if I am successful or not. I was hoping to have this finished by the time the transfers for the train arrive but I doubt if I am going to be successful in that endeavor. Second best would be to have all the construction completed and at least be ready for paint. I'm not taking any bets though
  8. Nice job Ced I'm like Ian - I don't have much in the way of special tools specifically for brass. I just use whatever tools I have lying around. Apart from the soldering iron I can't think of anything that I've bought specifically to use on metal. I would however heartily recommend TIX Solder Products - I use their stuff 90% of the time. It's designed for use with jewellery so it's very low melt and very easy cleanup (unlike "standard" flux' which can corrode the brass if not cleaned off properly). They even have an anti-solder that you can apply on parts where you don't want the solder to go (I have some but never tried it)
  9. Thanks folks - much appreciated. and yet more sanding to come. and transparencies - with more sanding Arghhhhhhhhh... thread pollution! all that work never to be seen again. Today I have mostly been fiddling with fiddly things. Damn fiddly they are/were/is I did find that my patented Wessex fondler also holds a Venom pretty well too. The first problem of the day was how to attached the doors to the undercarriage. Had I stuck with the plastic parts this would have been an easy job, but oh no, not hendie. He had to go all fancy and make with the brass didn't he? The solution, or at least the solution I came up with, was to drill yet another hole in the leg and superglue a piece of kit plastic in there. I could then drill a mating hole in the undercarriage door, pop that "pin" through it glue that together. Definitely not the strongest joint in the world but enough to keep things in place. The outer skin of the door was sanded flush and some more superglue weeped into the cavity 'tween leg and door Seems to be working so far - but will it hold until we're finished? on t'other door I added some greeblies to make up the two hinges and latching mechanism. The hinges have still to be filed to shape, but it was a lot easier to stick them in place when they had extra plastic then try to file them down and then stick them in place. More fun was had testing my "how straight can you drill?" skills. These are resin valves I bought some time ago and they have been useful in all sorts of ways - I wish I could remember where I got them. Once drilled they could be threaded with stainless steel wire, and we now have a hydraulic line and brake valve. The valve should really have another wire coming in but I was pushing my luck already with just the one wire. I then spent an inordinate amount of time trying to get the valve and hydraulic line in the right place, and to stick there. Eventually both were done and it was time to prime and spray with flat aluminum I hand brushed some Alclad titanium gold over the flat aluminum to give some variation and a kind of greased look. Then, when all was done I added the last piece of brake hose. All of this will be completely hidden of course. But when has that ever stopped me before eh? Finally, some Flory wash was applied. Note that all these photo's have had contrast and other bits adjusted to make the images a bit clearer. In the flesh, the colors are a lot more subtle... honest. The mojo rising dry fit. I thought for a moment that I was almost getting close to paint, then remembered I had cut off some knobby bits so I could get into the wing roots to enjoy my sanding sessions. After searching fruitlessly through my spares box, I remembered that I had some brass rivets left from the train build (yes, that build!) - and as luck would have it, I found some rivets which had just the right size head. See?... proof! Two up top, and two down below. Guess how much of the coaming I had to remove in order for the windscreen to fit ? Lots! I don't think there's anything left to fit the gun sight to , not that there's actually any room inside for the gun sight. But at least the windscreen now fits. I was about to fit it when I remembered I still have a bunch of sanding to do, so that's going to stay off until all the sanding is completed, otherwise we all know what happens there don't we? To kill some time while glue and paint was drying I painted up the wheels. Tomorrow I can give the undercarriage doors a coat of clear matt to tone things down and blend the colors in a bit more. Then to finish up for today I added a couple of strengthening strips I spotted on a photo. I still need to figure out what to do about the hard points - the kit only has a bunch of dimples on each wing, but I'll need something better. So while we're belly up... should I fill those holes or not? Or should I add the 4 danglies for the cartridge ejectors. I assume they go over the holes n'est pas? The kit had the cartridge chutes off to one side of the holes and I can't find any photos anywhere that clarify that arrangement. Tomorrow may be the last sanding session - if the wife goes out to the horses again tomorrow (fingers crossed!) OH Oh oh - guess what? The wife went out to the stables today only to find out that someone had found her car key and actually handed it in to the stables!!! Talk about luck - the stables are a good 3 or 4 miles from the trail and there's more than one stable in the area. She called me today just as I was about to order a new key. Fortuitous or what!
  10. Many ways to skin a cat Ian. I've used numerous methods to hold parts - tape, tweezers, blu-tack, vise, - whatever gets the job done. (blu-tack can end up getting messy though.) That is for the main part though. When it comes to the part I'm trying to solder on - then again, I've used various methods. Tweezers (my hands always end up shaking), tape, and clamps etc. My method for these latest parts was to get the primary part oriented correctly and "fixed" so it wouldn't move. Flux was then applied and I tinned both parts. For the next step, I held the to-be-soldered part in position against the main part, touched the iron to the solder so I only had a very small amount of solder on the tip, then applied that to the joint. A few seconds and the solder flowed easily. I have used the method of positioning the iron then bringing in the solder to the tip, but then I need a third hand to hold one of the parts and I always end up flooding the joint with way too much solder - which normally isn't a problem as solder cleans up so easily. I found yesterdays method much easier. With just a small amount of solder on the (small) tip, I had much more control of the joint. The only thing to watch out for is that the solder doesn't stay on the tip too long before you apply it as the solder will degrade (but we're not making electronics here) Heather says it more succinctly than I do, though I found tinning the parts first really seemed to help this time around.
  11. absolutely no criticisms from here in hendland Tony. My only suggestion is that you keep at it - this is utterly fascinating and captivating. For what it's worth, I believe your interpretation of the wing chord in relation to the fuselage seems appropriate given the information so far. I wish I could offer more
  12. I feel your pain. Yes the fit of pretty much everything is terrible - there's not a flat edge or a straight line on the kit. You have to do a lot of selective sanding to get any two surface anywhere near close together. I had actually started this kit some time back - the flaps are a LOT of work, not to mention the amount of work just to get the upper and lower wing surfaces to come together. As you note the PE instructions are missing a few steps - I cut through the boom as it seemed the easiest solution at the time. I'm sure all the scraping I had to do to get parts to fit contributed to the resurgence of an old injury, so I just put the kit away to be revisited at some point in the future.
  13. Ced, I've got loads of those brass bita that "doesn't quite fit" at first attempt. Give it a few months and you'll find something to be able to repurpose it for. Alternatively, it looks like you have enough plastic in that huge skeeter to scrape away a clearance channel. PS - its great to see you getting into brass at last. Now when the soldering iron comes out...
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