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Totally Mad Olivier

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Totally Mad Olivier last won the day on May 21 2017

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About Totally Mad Olivier

  • Birthday 06/04/1963

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    St Raphaël, France
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    Model making, football, cinema, music, e-biking

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  1. Yes it is. Its inside dimensions allow to put quite big bodies, such my 29 cm Mustang (I will give you the precise inside dimensions if you want - now at my cabinet -). It is the QDH 310 model sold 193€ on Amazon. Cheers, O
  2. Hello my friends, Christmas arrived early for me this year and Santa Claus brought me very nice presents: - a Badger 200 airbrush, that is a single action very simple airbrush. - the Four e's great paint mixer suggested by Barbatos Rex - a Riviera et Bar dehydrator, that should allow me, still referring to Barbatos Rex, to save a lot of setting time on paints, Clears, Putties, Surfacers, primers etc. It could be used also to dry the airbrush... I began to use all now (you know me...) all of them. The Badger 200 allows to apply with a regular coat of paint or Clear (precise flow adjustement by the rear knob). It is as easy to clean as the 150 model. I think this airbrush is better for large areas such a 1/16 or bigger scale car. I could get it for a very cheap price on ebay (102,99€ shipping costs included): And a bit later: If you have any questions about one of these products, I will be pleased to answer... I am very happy, sure that these new tools will improve even more my modeling experience! Cheers, O
  3. Hello my friends, Tip of the day: I showed above how to make the most of the great Micromesh sanding sheets (the Micromesh are probably the best sanding product on the modeling market), glueing them on a double sided tape. This allows to cut custom portions and, once attached to the head of a manual plugger or the altered head of the Proxxon PS13, to easily sand and polish the pieces. I go a bit further here, recommending the wide version of the Micromesh (most of the case, they are sold in the narrow version). Why? Just because they are 8 cm width and this allows to cut in a band 4 strips of 2 cm each (the dst are usually 2 cms): More, I could find a (german) seller who may sell precisely the grits you need. Here are below the ones I ordered a few days ago. I got them today (very fast service): Here is the e-mail adress of this very good seller: kontakt@schleifartikel.com And here is the Online shop: http://www.schleifartikel.com Hoping this helps, happy modelling to all Olivier P.S: I watched a new video of Barbatos Rex about a dehydrator that allows to decrease significantly the setting time. Have some of you tried such a display? Do you use something like that? Barbatos, who uses this little machine for about 1 year, seems very happy with it:
  4. Hello my friends, I had to wait 24 h after the painting job on the trunk to do the post processing as mentioned in the previous post. Now I can show you the results I get BEFORE THE GLOSS COAT: There 's no miracle: a patient sanding job is necessary to get this smooth free of grain shiny surface. But it is worth it imho... To be followed...
  5. Hello my friends, For the trunk (re) painting job, I added some Mr Color Leveling thinner to my mix, following Alan suggestion and I don't regret it (I recall that Barbatos Rex, in the video, puts more paint than thinner, I don't follow him on that point). Of course, with such a thinning (about 33/66), the paint covers less. But on the other hand, I get so a very fine coat with a minimum of grain (as I could get thinning with 96% alcohol up to now but with the advantage to get a nice Gloss surface very suitable for polishing instead of a flat one). More, in this case, covering less is not a problem, since I paint on a sanded but not totally rid of the paint layer surface. And even if it was the case, the AMT bare plastic is nearly the same color than my WW. Now I want to precise what I meant in my penultimate post about the Compounds. All these last days, I have been trying many post processing options and I may now draw interesting conclusions that I share with you through a new protocole (Word doc) very different than the one posted November 1 (p. 71) and here it is below, in french and also in english: Protocole laque brillante sur carrosserie maquette: 1°) Étape peinture : - L’état de surface de la pièce à peindre doit être aussi parfait que possible, exempt de défaut. - N’appliquer la peinture dans des conditions exemptes de poussière et d’humidité excessive. - Diluer la peinture acrylique Tamiya (ce peut être un mélange de peintures) avec le Mr Color Leveling thinner selon le ratio 1 part de peinture/ 2 parts de diluant. Le mélange peinture/ diluant peut avantageusement être préparée dans un flacon en verre gradué (type Tamiya 23 ml, par ex.). Évidemment, avec une telle dilution, le mélange appliqué sera moins couvrant. Idéalement, le plastique devrait donc avoir à peu près la même couleur que la couleur à appliquer (c’est le cas pour la Mustang, Dieu merci, un bon point pour AMT) ou au moins être plus clair que celle-ci. Si la teinte du plastique est plus foncée, il faudra modifier un peu le ratio (plutôt 40/60) voire recourir à un primer clair type Tamiya White Surface Primer. - Régler d’abord le débit d’air sur 30 psi et pulvériser air seul sur la pièce pour éliminer d’éventuelles poussières - Appliquer à l’aéro le mélange (pression 20 psi) en plusieurs passages. On peut même diluer un peu davantage en ajoutant dans l’aéro quelques gouttes de diluant avant un dernier passage. Laisser sécher 24 h minimum. - Utiliser les Micromesh 3200 à 12000 coupés en petits carrés (ou rectangles) montés sur applicateur manuel ou, pour des surfaces planes et larges, sur Proxxon PS13* (mini ponceuse linéaire, permet de gagner du temps sur le ponçage) en combinaison avec les Compounds (en quantité infime) étalés au doigt pour éliminer les grains et obtenir du même coup le lustre souhaité. Le Coarse sera plutôt utilisé avec les grains 3200, 3600, 4000 et 6000, le Fine avec le grain 8000 et le Finish avec le grain 12000. Dans ce protocole, les chiffons de buffing Tamiya ne sont utilisés que pour essuyer délicatement l'excès de pâte avant passage des Micromesh (ne laissant qu'un film qui évite les microrayures et accélère la procédure de ponçage) et les Compounds ne sont pas utilisés après le passage du Micromesh 12000, à moins de vouloir une fini ultra brillant de 10 sur une échelle de brillance de 0 à 10 (effet miroir). Terminer ce lustrage avec un chiffon microfibre de qualité à sec. 2°) Étape vernis : Noter que cette étape peut sembler superflue (ou du moins facultative) vu le lustre qu’on obtient en appliquant le protocole ci-dessus. Le vernis n'est pas là pour apporter le fini brillant (on l'a déjà) mais il apporte (au prix d'un travail complémentaire non négligeable) une protection long terme à la peinture. - travailler dans de bonnes conditions (humidité faible, pas de poussière) - Préparer le vernis GX112 à raison de 4 parts de diluant Mr Color Leveling pour 1 part de GX112 (p. ex, 28 gouttes de diluant, 7 gouttes de vernis). - Régler d’abord le débit d’air sur 30 psi et pulvériser air seul sur la pièce pour éliminer d’éventuelles petites poussières - Régler ensuite le débit sur 20 psi et appliquer d’abord une fine couche (accroche) - Compléter quelques minutes après avec une couche complémentaire un petit peu plus épaisse (déplacement un peu plus lent avec l’aérographe). Ne pas charger cette couche cependant. - Mettre délicatement les pièces à l’abri de la poussière - Laisser sécher 3h minimum si on décide d’appliquer une 2ème couche, 24 h minimum après le dernier passage, avant le polissage final aux Micromesh de la même façon. * la ponceuse est "promenée" sur la surface sans pression, dans les 2 sens, alternativement In english now: Glossy lacquer on model protocol: 1) Paint step: - The surface to paint must be clean, as smooth as possible, free of defect - Airbrush only in dry and free of dust conditions - After mixing it thoroughly, thin the Tamiya acrylic paint (it may be a mix of several Tamiya acrylics) with Mr Color Leveling thinner with a ratio 1 part of paint/ 2 parts of thinner (this ratio will have to be rather 40/60 if the plastic on which the paint is applied is Dark (if so, it may be useful to apply a tack coat of Light primer such the Tamiya White Surface Primer). The mix may be prepared one time for all in a graduated Glass flask (such the Tamiya 23 ml, fe). - Set first the air pressure on 2 bars and spray air alone to remove any dust - Spray the mix at about 20 psi (1,5 bar), holding if possible the piece to paint vertically (airbrush more or less horizontal), to limit the risk of dust affixing on the piece. If though a little dust settles on the surface, don't try to remove it but avoid spraying paint on. It will be easily removed after the full setting time, with the Micromesh. - It is possible, to get an even smoother surface, to add even a bit more thinner (directly in the airbrush cup) and apply a last coat of this very thinned mix - Wait at least 24h. - Use the Micromesh 3600 to 12000 (on which a dst has been applied) cut in little square mounted on a hand applicator (see below) or, for wide surfaces, on the Proxxon PS13* (allows to earn time on such surfaces), in combination with the Compounds in minute quantities (Coarse with 3200, 3600, 4000 and 6000 grits, Fine with 8000, Finish with the 12000). The minute quantity of Compound is applied with the index pulp and spread on the surface. It accelerates the sanding job and prevents from little scratches. Finish the polish with a clean quality microfiber cloth. Check the result: if some little grain is still present on the whole surface or by places, repeat the procedure with Micromesh and Compounds as mentioned. You should get so a very nice, smooth and shiny surface, and we may wonder if the varnish step is really necessary. But as we expect our models to survive us, it is advisable to bring a protection to the paint coat... 2) Gloss Coat step: - Spray in dry free of dust conditions - Thin the Mr Color GX112 with Mr Color Leveling thinner with a ratio of 1 part GX112 for 4 parts of Mr CLT. As for the paint, the mix may usefully be prepared one time for all in a graduated Glass flask - Spray in the same conditions than for the paint, a thin/ medium coat. If necessary, a second coat will be applied a few hours after the first one. - Setting time before the post-processing job (same way than with the paint): 24 h * do not exert any pressure on the PS13 linear sander while you move it on the surface, alternatively in both directions Well, this protocole is the result of my own experience and also from what I learned from your suggestions. It is imho a good way to get reproducible and nice results. I don't pretend of course it to be the only way to get such results. Hoping it will help other modelers... Cheers, O N.B: I have changed my mind about the dehumidifier. I could think that it was responsible of the paint cracks, I now know that this problem (focused on the left wing) is pity present even stopping it.
  6. Very interesting and inspiring, Alan! I will try to thin even more my mix… Less grain also means less post-processing with Micromesh to get the fine result expected… Cheers, O
  7. Dear Steve, I think I have other good news to come. No time now and I need to confirm but briefly, I think we may avoid the buffing with Compounds step* and though get a fine shiny state of surface… It would imho a very good new because these pastes generate residue that may often raise a few problems in fragile and/ or narrow areas such the air inlet slots. About the thinning of both Tamiya acrylics and GX112, it sounds logic that the more thinner you have, the less grain you will get. And what is great with the Mr CLT is that we may thin a lot and though preserve the quality of the paint and Clear Coat. The paint, in particular, covers well even thinned more than 50/50… * unless you really want a very high shine effect… More soon…
  8. Hello my friends, Confident in the Mr Color leveling thinner, I decided so to apply a coat of GX112 thinned at least at 1:4 (a bit more, in fact, to get a very fine grain) early this morning. And I just did the sanding and buffing job. The result was ever good after the WW coat (see above), it is even a little better imho thanks to this great mix GX112/ Mr CLT: N.B: sorry Poul, I didn't try yet the AK 2K Ultra Gloss. I ever spent so much time on this front area and Clear Coats review... I want to go on now that I found a good recipe for the body... Cheers, O
  9. One more time, Jochen, no offense at all and thanks a lot for these kind words. Sorry, Jeroen, you don't win the refrigerator, indeed! I won't wait any longer to answer the question above: in fact, no Clear Coat at all was applied, it is just the WW thinned quite a lot (more than 50/50 ) that allowed to get a shiny smooth surface. I of course had to sand with the last Micromesh (6000 to 12000) and buff to get this result. Notice though that, even with the Mr Color thinner, I still had (and I go on having, pity, but much less than before) very little cracks on the left wing coming back several hours after the paint coat. This Mr Color leveling thinner is really a hit: it may thin greatly as well enamel, cellulosic paints and varnishes, but also (to my big surprise) acrylics such Tamiya's ones. You can thin a lot the paint with this amazing thinner, the cover remains good and you get a very smooth and shiny surface with very little grain. Now the question for me is: should I really apply a Clear Coat while I am happy with the result I got? Happily, the GX 112 is also thinned with the Mr Color and, to preserve the result, I intend to thin quite a lot (at least 1:4) the GX112. Of course, there will still be challenges (beginning with the doors/ body narrow gaps) to come, but I feel I have finally at least found the right recipe (I think about the funny Steve drawing above, that's exactly what it is except that I have a little more hair than the guy on the drawing ) to get the Gloss look of a brand new car. I will go on using alcohol to thin my flat acrylic colors (especially for aircraft modeling) but the Mr Color leveling thinner is expected to become an essential product for the civil models I will realize in the future... Cheers, O
  10. Thanks a lot for your "likes", my friends, but no one answered my previous post question: with which Clear coat did I get this result (that I have now also on the hood)? No offense, Jochen, I assure you that hood and wings have the same color. Maybe is it the satin look of the previous version of the hood that could give you that feeling. And about enamels, it is very possible that you could get as good if not better results with the latter. I personally prefer to use Tamiya acrylics, especially since I know now, thanks to Barbatos Rex, that they give amazing results in combination with the Mr Color thinner...
  11. Hello chaps, I could get exactly the result expected (finally!!) on the wings and inlet air area: To be followed...
  12. Interesting method, Les, but if so, it should be OK, as (unless I have the Covid), I don't smell anything even approaching very close from the body... I will though wait tomorrow morning to apply the Clear Coat... Cheers, O
  13. Sorry Jeroen, it is just that this info about the Mr Color to thin an acrylic Tamiya seemed to me so surprising, that I feared a new fail (and tried to get the best mix paint/ thinner). But the first trial shows that this combination is great to get a smooth and shiny surface (even before applying a Clear Coat): As I still had little cracks on the wings (especially the left one)), I made a new (and hopefully last) sanding job, and I applied a coat of WW thinned this time with the Mr Color thinner. The result of this paint coat is fine, very shiny, what is really different from what I could get using alcohol as thinner. With both, I get a smooth surface but of course, alcohol provides a very flat surface: Things should become a bit more simple for me now, thanks to Barbatos Rex... Please, share with me you experience about the setting time of the Tamiya acrylic thinned with Mr Color. Cheers, O
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