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Totally Mad Olivier

Gold Member
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Totally Mad Olivier last won the day on May 21 2017

Totally Mad Olivier had the most liked content!

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About Totally Mad Olivier

  • Rank
    Only the final result matters...
  • Birthday 06/04/1963

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    St Raphaël, France
  • Interests
    Model making, football, cinema, music, e-biking

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  1. Dear mustang1989, I am glad to have another Mustang fan among the followers of my thread (Biggu and Houston are fans too). You can see that my progress is very slow because of lack of time and will to be faithful, but what an exciting build, with such a model. Cheers, TMO
  2. +1, Harvey! Very glad to see you back to your bench, btw... Cheers, O
  3. Thanks JCH for this comment. I am often wondering like you if having so many pics and measures of the full sized (pity, I am not owner of a 1965 Ford Mustang) car is a blessing or a curse. Definitely, it leads me to go very far in my will of truth with this build, but even when I have piecemeal reporting, like for my last Nieuport 11, I try to get as many precisions as possible to avoid errors. I didn't understand the sentence: "my OCD nature would spiral into madness". OCD? Cheers, TMO...
  4. Hello to all, If I did not forget a detail, my parts, once prepared, are ready for the Chrome painting job. The recipe is always the same, Alclad Chrome over a coat of TS-14 Gloss Black sprayed with the airbrush. But a painstaking masking job was first necessary for the dashboard: It is important to handle comfortably and safely the parts to be painted. In the case of the trim bars, fe, I chose to apply them on a portion of thick double sided tape. Here are all my parts the TS-14 once applied: I have now just to wait about 12 h before applying the Chrome Alclad. For the smallest Chrome portions, such the radio frame, another option will be used, probably using Molotow LC with a paintbrush. Thanks for watching Olivier
  5. N.B: - I got the Proxxon manual, and I must say I was very disappointed. It is a small book, but rather a catalog than a manual. I expected it would show several examples showing what you can do with a lathe, it is not the case. - I also just got the Canon printer. I will do the first trials soon, hoping it will allow me to get more details on custom decals such the pattern in the middle of the steering wheel.
  6. As many details of the Mustang dashboard, the central portion of the steering wheel is quite complex (and it is precisely the "baroque" style of this car that like many people, I do love). Even if we have to deal with the quite small 1/16 scale, it is important to restitute as well as possible this complexity to get a fine result. I evaluate the diameter of this central recessed area to about 1,8 mm (the global horn is 3,2 mm. I first drill a shallow hole with a 1,6 mm drill. Then I use my 1 mm home made sanding tool, ever seen above (post# 714 p. 29): And now, let's focus on the 3 spokes having to be connected on this central element. Here are below pics on which I will rely to represent them as well as possible: - this very nice 3/4 view: - the ever seen front view: - this close-up of an AMT spoke: Let's determine what must be the 3 round holes inside the spokes, using the rule of 3, from the 1,8 mm central portion of the horn: N.B: the dimensions of the oval holes on the AMT Chrome part are about: - big one: 1,5 x 1 - medium one: 1,3 x 0,9 - small one: 1,1 x 0,8 And a bit later: These spokes are indubitably much better now than the AMT initial ones. But are there really fine? Only a merciless comparison will give the answer: In such a box (a dental bur box), they are stored in very safe conditions: Now, I am gonna focus on the left direction handle. Cheers, TMO
  7. I just cut the 2 mm in excess on the steering column and now, it ever looks much better. But... Well, 6,5 mm diameter seems to me a lot, I will probably do a compromise. The biggest Evergreen tubes I have are 4,8 mm diameter (the one of the central portion of the part 65)... I will do a trial with this diameter. As I have to scratch build this central portion, let's check also its lenght, considering that the horn offset was not represented on the AMT part (I will try to represent it): More soon... Thanks for watching, TMO
  8. Notice that the comparison photo above was made today, using the 2nd kit at my disposal. Yet I will certainly use this 2nd kit parts (redoing the full steering wheel job), as it seems to be impossible to separate the Chrome part (316) from the wheel 65 (I seem to have used polystyren glue and not CA for this glueing). You could object that bringing corrections would be possible without separating these 2 parts, but I realized that there was another defect on my steering wheel: an offset (I updated my merciless pic in the post# 930 adding a label about that). And I think that, anyway, it will be easier to get a better result doing so. Well, first thing to do: precise the diameter of the wheel outside ring. It was a bit too wide, as I mentioned, about 1,45 mm instead of 1,3 mm imho. To remove the AMT "Chrome" from the part 316, I will follow CC method showed in the post# 8 of his great Talbot Lago Record 1950 thread, using Destop, this method being very fast while respecting the plastic: I just found another pic that should be useful to get a faithful steering wheel, showing it on side view: More soon, TMO...
  9. Hello, Before going on with my build, a new step in my organized bench: I got the 25 compartments storage rack, that allows me to win some room and improve my modeling organization: The goal was to have as few as possible tools on my working mat. Only knives are allowed to be placed on the mat (it is dangerous to put them in jars). So, the working area will be quite easy to clean, and if a small part jumps, it will be easier to find: And, as promised in my previous post, the comparison between the original AMT steering wheel and mine today: And now, I am going to try to still improve that of today... I said above that one of the most important point to improve was the central pattern. The latter depending on the printing quality, I made researches to find the best inkjet printer for photo, and it appeared that the Canon Pixma TS 8350 was a very good choice (resolution and respect of colors) for an acceptable price (189,87 $€, free shipping). I decided to order this printer, and should get it in about 10 days or less. In the meantime, I will work on the other aspects of this set steering wheel/ steering column/ handle... Cheers, O
  10. Well, Poul, I don't think I will go so far, totally scratchbuilding the whole chromed part, but indeed, I will try to improve in several aspects this steering wheel. Of course, we have to consider that this is a close-up and in reality, it is only 25 mm diameter (at naked eye and if you don't do such a merciless comparison, it doesn't look bad). Though, here are the aspects I will try to improve: The most challenging for me in all this is probably the decal. Is there a HQ printer that could give me more details on such a small pattern? Notice that, of course, my steering wheel had ever been reworked (see my post# 323 p. 13). I will post later (I have to go now) a comparison with the initial AMT version... Cheers, O
  11. Hello chaps, I had no time this morning to go further in the analysis of the last picture I made. Here is the very interesting comparison I just made: That's all for now (too tired) but more soon... Cheers, O
  12. Thanks a lot, Poul and Harvey! Yes, I admit it is my ambition to get the most true detailed early Mustang Convertible. Btw, Harvey, do you intend to come-back soon to your bench for the last steps of your totally amazing 806 build, my friend? This story of cat (who erased a post if I understood well) seems to have stopped you in your move. Cheers, O
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