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Totally Mad Olivier

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Totally Mad Olivier last won the day on May 21 2017

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About Totally Mad Olivier

  • Birthday 06/04/1963

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    St Raphaël, France
  • Interests
    Model making, football, cinema, music, e-biking

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  1. Morning chaps, I was rather optimistic when I left you yesterday evening, thinking the war was won: It looks like there is a little animal living under this f... area, who begins to move as soon as I am gone... When I see the result I may get using in combination this Clear Coat, the Micromesh and the Compounds, I decide to see the glass half full. More soon in the following battle... Cheers, O
  2. Hello to all, Maybe you think I didn't do anything these last days, since my last post of Sunday evening, showing a top view with doors and windshield in place (dry fit). But I owe you the truth (my philosophy of sharing has always been to also share hassles). I was not totally satisfied by the result I got after buffing hood and front wings, and the devil spot was still present... Of course, I will show the result after the buffing job (that should be done this afternoon). Then we will see if the defect is acceptable or not. If it is not, I stop modeling! (I'm kidding...) Cheers, O Edit end of afternoon : as we could expect, pity, the buffing job did not allow to fix the « diable spot » problem. I still spent at least 1h30 struggling against the latter, with my sanding tools, and the result, even if much better, is not yet satisfying. I am strongly determined not to let go with this incredible problem. Furthermore, I got today modeling products from Passion 132 including the MRP Super Clear Coat suggested above by someone of you (sorry, I don’t recall). I will do trials with this 2 components Gloss coat and if the results are better than with my previous Gloss varnishes, I will use this one. Edit even a bit later: the "diable spot" is now nearly invisible and I just apply the Mr Paint Gloss coat. No time to post pics now, but I think I found the fine Gloss coat I was dreaming about... More soon (tomorrow) Cheers, O
  3. Hi again, I am happy to inform you that I could finally get an acceptable result on my left front wing (phew!!) and that my hood is now glued in place: Cheers, O
  4. Hi guys, This morning, I was strongly determined to put an end to the left front wing, but... Ok, the defect is much less visible (for now) the the previous one, but it is not though the invisible surface I am willing to get... Now, what should I do? Just go on again with a sanding job step (from 400 grit to 3000)? Or airbrush a thin coat of WSP (thinned with cellulo thinner) in order to fill the little defect, meaning having to wait again several hours before the sanding/ painting job? I choose the latter option: And a few hours later: Cheers, O
  5. Dear Urshimato, I have been watching the Barbatos Rex videos on YT about the Chrome and Black Chrome Alclad, and also on the Molotow LC. He is impressed by the results he may get with both products, as I am myself. In this thread, much above, I made comparisons between several Chrome products and my conclusion was that the classic Alclad applied on a good Gloss Black base was probably still the best, even if in some particular conditions, the Molotow could be better, especially on small surfaces and applied with a paintbrush in thick amounts. In fact, reading your post, I expected a new and even better option than the ones I myself tried, but unless I missed something (maybe another video), it is just a confirmation about ever known products for me. On the other hand, I found another video from another author with another product (closer from the Molotow LC one) that seems to also give easily a nice mirror effect, but I don’t succeed to find it back now. If I do, I will edit… Thanks anyway, Olivier Edit later: I suscribed to the barbatos Rex channel, regretting that he is not french (my english is just average) and saw another video dedicated to the Spaz Stix Chrome products and understand that maybe you thought about the latter (you could have precised as Barbatos Rex makes many videos). Only for these Spaz Stix, there are 2 videos, one using cans, and one using bottles for airbrush use: I have never used these Spaz Stix products (not known on my usual modeler's providers but available on ebay) but they seem to be interesting (especially the cans version, that give a durable resistant to masking nice Chrome). Have any of you experience them? If so, thank you for sharing your experience...
  6. Hello to all, Again at the bench to get the best possible result on my left front wing: I have now to wait the WSP setting (not before tomorrow morning to be sure)... In the meantime, a little focus on the front lights: if AMT provides 2 clear parts (without Chrome frame) for the main ones, nothing in the box for the turn signals! So I will have to scratchbuild them...
  7. Evening chaps, Despite that my hood will be remained closed, I want to represent not too badly the bottom areas that will be slightly visible if the model is seen form below. That is why I studied the below pics: Close-up of the circled area: In parallel, I go on with the left front wing sanding and painting job: That's all for today... Cheers, O
  8. Hello to all, A little update, with the correction of Chrome trim fins: Cheers, O P.S: thanks a lot Steve for your confidence and your funny message!
  9. Thanks Jochen for your contribution. For now, I don't know if the problem came from the putty or from the paint. What I can say is that I used several kinds of putties as I mentioned above (Mr Surfacer 1200, Tamiya Surface Primer, Tamiya LC Putty and even CA), while the painting job was always done using my WW mix and 96° alcohol. For this new trial (hopefully successful this time!), I used another putty, The Vallejo one, and I left it set a long time (more than 15 h) before beginning the sanding job: Maybe the problem occurred because of a too thick coat of paint (the Tamiya acrylic thinned with alcohol gives however a very fine grain) to cover the putty. The surface being not flat in this area, a kind of "drop" would appear lately. This is just an assumption but I will rather apply 2 thin coats of WW for the next painting step to come... Cheers, O
  10. Hello chaps, I tried to assemble my Chrome trim in front of the grille: I also bring corrections where necessary such the dash cap, stupidly a bit sprayed with WW as you can see in yesterday morning’s post above To be followed...
  11. Hi again, One more time (it is at least the 4th time), I redo the full putty/ sanding/ painting job on the left front wing. This time, I will post every step. Maybe doing that will bring good luck... To be followed, consequently... but in the meantime, I can go on with the grille: Cheers, O
  12. Thanks Nick for your contribution. It is indeed a crack in the paint (and not a hair/eyebrow that would not come-back every time after its removal) that doesn’t appear first (just after applying the paint) but later. Hello Six97s My hood will be closed and the wires will just be slightly visible from below (in the context of a modelers contest, in particular). I have though decided to represent them for a more realistic perception but you will understand that I didn’t try to be totally accurate on their distribution in such conditions. When I had been at the Torino Fiat museum for researches regarding the 806, I was surprised to see that the engine of the 1/6 806 exposed was represented just by a kind of foam (more, this museum model appeared to be rather wrong, btw). Cheers, O
  13. Thanks a lot Steve for your contribution. Pity, this logo is not precisely the one we may see on the Pace Car plate. I have sent an e-mail to the Indy museum and hope they will be able to help me... In the meantime, a new "update": Pity, sometimes, you redo the job several times, and the result remains unsatisfying, you don't know why: The previous result made me think that this time, it was finally OK, and it is only when I applied the Gloss coat (H30 Hobby Color) that I found with fright that the defect had again reappeared: Have you experienced such a phenomenon with paint? for my part, never. Cheers, O
  14. Thanks a lot Nick, very good suggestion! I am gonna send an e-mail and hope I will get what I need… Cheers, O
  15. Thanks Mark for your message and the Repsol 2014 suggestion. We shall see... I see you live at Cleveland, not so far (not very close though, I admit) from Indianapolis, where the Ford Mustang I build was exposed and used as Pace Car in 1964. As I didn't succeed to find in the Net the Pace Car precise plate (below), I wonder if you could find it in a Indy 500 museum... No pressure too, of course ... The "best" period pic I have showing this plate is this one: and the "most faithful" close-up I have is this: It is not exactly the same and the inscription "INDIANAPOLIS MOTOR SPEEDWAY" should be over the logo instead of being in the wings and tyre in the middle... If I finally can't find a good close-up of the real plate, I will though use this one... Any help, coming from you or anyone else, would be welcome... Cheers, O
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