Jump to content

Totally Mad Olivier

Gold Member
  • Content Count

    3,917
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Totally Mad Olivier last won the day on May 21 2017

Totally Mad Olivier had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

6,564 Excellent

5 Followers

About Totally Mad Olivier

  • Rank
    Only the final result matters...
  • Birthday 06/04/1963

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    St Raphaël, France
  • Interests
    Model making, football, cinema, music, e-biking

Recent Profile Visitors

2,689 profile views
  1. Hello chaps, Nick suggested me to use snip it to fix the left bracket problem. I finally could solve it using my MacBook tools: And Manu suggested me as well to use Photofiltre to turn clear the background on my "Official" decal. I could not use this software that was developed for Windows. I will first try to apply my custom decals with the film removed and, in case of failure, I will try to find another tool of the same kind, usable on Mac. For memory, here is the original trim (on Bernard's Mustang):
  2. Thanks a lot, Poul. Pity, I often find out these anomalies a bit late, what leads me to redo some steps, like for this rib, important element of style. I would like to become more careful to such details and make the corrections before jumping on my airbrush. Never trust in the kit's proposition, check every aspect, then I would earn time in my builds. Learn to watch carefully, with a critical eye, is something difficult. Meanwhile, with the Fiat 806, so wrong, I should have learnt a lot. But it is so, unless you 100% scratch build (in this case, you start from a blank page
  3. Ok Manu, this sounds more and more clear, thanks a lot to you and Les. I will study that very soon and will definitely learn something, but for now, I am focused on the question of the glass gap at the bench level. Maybe some of you remember that I represented this area on the door - long ago, see the posts of p. 20 (1/1/2019), 21 (2 and 3/1/2019), 26 (16 and 19/2/2019) -. I will have very soon to represent as well this area on its extension at the bench level, between the latter and the body: Yet for now, my gaps are not OK, especially left side, as the following top
  4. It would be necessary to scan the many parts separately. But then my build would become very common, while my ambition is to get the only faithful replica of this legendary car ! We must be realistic, in a few years, if things go on as they are with 3D, all the time I spend to get a nice result will be much easily got... Can you precise what app can do that, please? Here too, things remain unclear for me. First I didn't draw my letters but took a photo of the AMT decal. I hope I will be able to use my custom decals with the film nearly totally removed,
  5. Hello to all, the sanding job is now over or nearly so on the areas of the body concerned. I made new checks and adjustments, in order to get narrower gaps doors/ body. And the result being now much better, I decided I could finally paint my doors before their assembly: N.B: the altered rib is now much better imho than the AMT one, I don't regret my decision to remove completely paint and decals on both doors and on the body. Cheers, Olivier
  6. Hello to all, Furthermore, I am trying to improve the result after my recent carving to restitute the ridge (better word than notch?), using the Tamiya White Surface Primer and my home made sanding tools (from 1 mm to 2,5 mm): That's all for today... Cheers, Olivier
  7. Hello to all, I thought about another way to get the « Official » decal at the right size, just taking a photo of the one I placed right side (the one left side was ever removed). This photo was reframed and exported on Word: Now the question was: what size? I used the rule of 3 from the profile view below to determine it precisely. I could so confirm that the AMT decal was much too small, about 30%: I made a first trial on a simple A4 paper: I noticed that the background color
  8. Hi again, I begin the complete outer door rework: Nearly 1 hour later, my doors are ready for the notch improvement job: If I decide to assemble the doors before their painting job, I have to think about the best strategy for the next steps. In particular, the dashboard should be assembled before the doors, what will mean a good masking job when painting the latter... N.B: 1) about the "Official" inscription, here is how I thought I could do: - pl
  9. Hello to all, Tip of the day: here is the new tool I used for my trial/ training on the 2nd kit's door: I could order this great tool for 299,99 € (not to say 300€), a very good price! The finishing sanding job was done mainly with the Tamiya sponges. N.B: even with this great tool, the job was very delicate. Getting a regular notch without creating little notches with the bur while not biting on the top panel limit to keep the straight line is not easy... Cheers Olivier
  10. Hi Poul, You suggest to just round the AMT notch, but if you look closely to the real car’s pics, you will see that the middle panel is really recessed from the top panel. That is why, imho, just rounding the existing little notch is not acceptable. Yet the trial on the 2nd kit’s door showed that I didn’t need to decrease to 0,3 mm or even 0,5 mm the middle panel’s thickness to get a much better result. This thickness was at least 0,7 mm, as mentioned. More, the empty space between this panel and the inner door is rather low (about 5-6 mm), and that is why I finally don't th
  11. Hello to all, I am still wondering if I will modify the notch. In order to help me making a decision, I made a trial/ training on the 2nd kit's door: Conclusion of the trial: I think I will do it. If I don't, I will regret... More soon...
  12. Hello to all, I spent quite a lot of time yesterday afternoon to get the best inscription and spaces between letters and digits possible. And this morning, a trial could be done: After careful comparison with the original inscription using the pics at my disposal, such the one below, I could get an even more faithful result: The space will be extended of 1,9 instead of 1,7 (not on the PACE CAR inscription), the space between INDIANAPOLIS and "500" will be reduced a bit and the brackets will be closer from the inscription 500. O
  13. Hello to all, Now that I found a way to get acceptable results with my custom decals (see the previous post), the question is: shouldn't I completely redo the inscription job, whose I am not very satisfied? It would also be the occasion to improve the lettering (I showed above that it was not really faithful to the original). After several trials by myself, I realized that the main problem I had with these inscriptions INDIANAPOLIS "500" and PACE CAR was the space between the letters. If I could modify it, I could perhaps try to print the whole inscription on a custom decal a
  14. Hello to all, I was off to a bad start in the new step that was the "PACE CAR" inscription, using first just water, and then Micro Sol. My letters, as previously (and logically) did not want to conform on the flat body surface. I realized that using the Micro Sol was a big error, as this product is to use on irregular surfaces. I thought that a mix Micro Set (supposed to enhance adhesion) and MMFA (a very good white glue) could allow me to fix this big problem. And it seems that this recipe is quite good: Edit later: WARNING: you mus
×
×
  • Create New...