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https://cultpens.com/collections/sakura-pigma-pens?productListPgNo=1 Rob

True Jon - but they only go to 1mm diameter - not smaller Rob

Excellent models Rob

I received an Email from Philippe of Swordfish Models about 10 days ago. He'd seen my comments about some of the Swordfish pieces being overscaled, apologised and promised to send me some more rescaled. I was frankly amazed that he'd take the time to read my blog. These arrived today..... Rescaled Corvus units, 27ft Motor Whalers and 965 single radar units. I'm Impressed by that degree of responsiveness - Philippe - I am very grateful for your excellent service So.....how different are they? The answer is very different. The Corvus units are much smaller and closer to the Foreart size I'll be using them and they certainly consign my "adapted" kit parts to the spares box The 27ft whalers have been corrected so as not to be so wide in the beam. The new pieces seem crisper in the printing From L - R - Old SF whaler - "New" SF whaler and the kit part And finally the 965 Radar which is reduced in size. The old measured 27mm across the new 24mm. I believe @Peter96 calculated that it should be 22.6mm. I can live with that. From L - R: "New" SF 996 radar, "Old" SF radar and on the right as you look the Foreat kit part. I'm pleased as I'll be using these for Leander Class builds later in the year. Alltogether very satisfying. So back to the T-42 build. This will be static on a pedestal and I deliberated as to whether it should be weathered. The appearance of Falklands T42s with their "chipped" Identity stripes was so iconic that I decided to go for it. If you recall I'd sprayed AK "Worn Effects" under the black, in anticiaption. Vallejo acrylics do not have a great reputation for responding to "hairspray" techniques. I was aware but they are my go-to acrylics especially the "Black-Greys". I gently scratched the surfce with an accupuncture needle - wetted it with distilled water and then very gently and patiently brushed with an old brush - stiffish bristles - you are allowed to gently "scrub" You need to be patient.... And Starboard side Once the paint starts to lift you can gently use Vallejo airbrush cleaner Happy. And so to the Foredeck and hazard circles. if you recall - Peter doesn't include large diameter red circles in his set. So - I used a yellow ....... The next bit I have to thank @Faraway Jon for who described and dmonstrated using a "Posca" pen on one of his Camo ship builds. I used a 0.4mm Sakura Micron pen to "colour-in"........ It's not 100% successful but I couldn't think of an alternative. It needed multiple layers and on 2 occasions the base yellow decal started to lift, possibly beacause I did not "Gloss" the surface sufficiently. It will pass muster when the foredeck is cluttered up. The Sakura Micron pens are useful. I've used "Cool Grey" to fill in the winidows on the Lynx and a black 005 to fill in the Black seals on the Life-Raft cannisters. I did try a yellow on the Lynx to simulate a Rescue "arrow" on the Heli-door but the pigment is just not man enough against the Oxford Blue. They are worth thinking about if you need to fill in very fine detail that would be Very difficult with a paint brush. My other purchase was 50 Black A4 cards from Amazon for a little over a fiver. One is used above in some of the photos. But their real worth comes when I spray "Klear" or Matt varnish. I spray very lightly and sometimes struggle to see if any is coming from the AB nozzle. Spraying onto a black surfce confirms the presence and rate of spray. Depth markings were added from the kit supplied decals... And in the next pic you can see the black pen lines on the rafts The masking tape was also lifted from the bridge windows - the clear transparency really makes a difference The bit I had not been looking forwards to was applying the PE "windscreen wipers". In truth it was OK - I used CA glue to attach and there are neat little holes to guide you. You get ONE spare !!! And they make a difference! Final jobs today were to spray up the props. I use a 50 : 50 mix of bronze and brass which gives an acceptable "tarnished" look that I prefer hugely to bright shiney brass And finally I took delivery of my go-to Vallejo "Semi-matt aluminium" that I'll be using as a base for the railings. My old bottle had gone off. Scale Model shops shipped efficiently as ever. It's acrylic so clean up is easy and it dries very quickly. I had hope to get this finished this week but tant pis. I'm off kayaking the West Coast of Scotland for a couple of weeks so, wait it will have to. Thanks for looking Rob

Better than my effort iin 1/72!! Rob

Looking very clean and neat Jon Rob

Good to see this progressing Chewbacca Rob

Regards aircraft colours -try this Dan - it's rather splendid: https://www.theworldwars.net/resources/index.php https://www.theworldwars.net/resources/file.php?r=camo_rnfaa HTH Rob

Another effective build Rob

Can only agree with Stuart - it really is an excellent build with a superb finish Rob

That's a lot of decalling Dan and from here looks rather excellent Interested to know what you'll think of the Swoordfish items Rob

And good luck from me Rob

Thanks Ned - I was speaking in sardonic jest given the time I've spent gazing at photos The issue was always that the lower deck stacnions and railings were dull silver but others higher in the superstructure did appear to be Light Weatherworks grey and as you quite correctly point out areas where there were weapon arcs had "removeable" wire guards. Rob

Thanks Tony - that makes some sense after staring at the pics - the foredeck certainly has chrome stanchions with wire - I'm indebted for the freedom to choose for the rest Rob

Impressive progress Jeff Rob