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robgizlu

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About robgizlu

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    Wiltshire

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  1. Time well spent IMHO Looking Pukka Rob
  2. OK ...........That is really very, very impressive Rob
  3. The level of detail is just a delight Looking forwards to seeing the Camo decals. I've used similar and they do work with a lot of decal setter and coaxing. The trick is to fit in pieces and literally "tailor" them to the figure Rob
  4. Thanks Fellas! Priming begins with my Go-to primer Mig "One Shot" The aim was to get the wheels and tracks painted before finally glueing the side armour on and fitting the support chains. Mindful of my paint trial nearly 2 years ago.......... I've opted to go for Mig Ammo Real IDF Sinai Grey 1982 Mig 131. I normally use the Gunze levelling thinner to dilute but it "Glooped" this so I resorted to Mig Ammo Thinner I painted the roof separately as "masking" the inner had it been attached would have been problematic I think it's a tad too brown without enough green but it's tricky - it really does change hue according to different light intensity. Tracks which on IDF machines seem very black were Mig Ammo Matt Black : Dark Tracks 3 : 1 I fitted all of the shackles and chains and then finished the priming Thanks for looking Rob
  5. This is a turret at RAF Hendon showing the framing dimensions in better detail HTH Rob
  6. Nice work on the stands Stuart. As to weathering - the truth is that nearly every pic I've seen of these craft shows them in pretty good nick - clean and tidy. If you are going to the easiest and most reliable method IMHO is to use oils and for convenience, it's hard to beat the Mig "Oilbrushers". I'd only buy 2 - "Starship Filth" and a lighter one to replicate salt and then use the "dab-on", "oil dot rendering" etc technique (lots of names). I dab very small amounts of oil onto some cardboard which helps soak up the oil and then with a brush or a cocktail stick - I dab on very small amounts to the model. Using a flat dry brush I either scrub in dry or moisten with some white spirit for a lighter layer. The trick is to work the oil in to build up tonal variation. If you don't like it - you can remove it with a brush or cotton bud moistened in white spirit (and start again) It's very flexible and the oil takes up to 24 hrs to dry so you can go back if needs. I deposit dirt (Starship filth) around the bases of vents, superstructure gun mounts etc which blends them in and replicates that you find on boats (Certainly sailing cruising boats!) I'll let our retired professional folk comment on larger vessels The single most important point about the above is the relaxed time you have to work If you want a master class on weathering - certainly in 1/35 - check out Andy Moore @AndyRM101 either here on the site or on The Modelling News. He recently built a Copper Models Lanchester armour car that's up in Armour RFI with a build log on the Modelling News that is a masterclass. I know what you mean about masking - the ASR I built I hand painted the framing and probably will again - it's just too fiddly for me to mask. Keep it coming Rob
  7. Stunning progress Kevin. I have the GLS deck sheet, and the base kit for some time in the future Having to punch the rivets is a bit of a downer. I like that you have sanded down the hull plates - they stand out like a sore thumb if it's not done Any thoughts to rivetting the hull? Again I ask - any thoughts as to what the final colour scheme will be? I have failed to find late pictures of Bluebell before she went down though the kit instructions bid you do 507C and B15 I believe. Keep it coming Rob
  8. Hi Kevin - I'm really looking forwards to this. Have you decided what paint scheme you'll depict her in? Rob
  9. Really nicely finished - the Figures are especially good Rob
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