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robgizlu last won the day on October 25

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    Modelling the mundane

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  1. Andrew - another opus - that is spectacularly good. Your seascape and overall finish are just excellent Rob
  2. Hi Rich You need some 0.3 x 1mm plastruct strips. Cut 3mm (in this case) sections and simply cut with a sharp blade (Swann & Morton No 11 is my go-to) from the bottom corner to the opposite top and you then have 2 (usually) equal bulwark supports that I fix using Tamiya Extra Thin cement. HTH Good luck Rob
  3. Good to see you as well Terry - and I really do like your gliders and drones! Let your Mojo take it where it will Rob
  4. That PE etch sheet as usual inspires equal amounts of awe and sheer jealousy "How do you think he does it? I don't know....... What makes him so good........." To quote the Who Rob
  5. So a quick word about references. These are the main ones I use for Corvettes. Most of you will appreciate that there were Enormous differences over time and between individual vessels more so it would seem than with many other classes. The reference pictures help to sort out the individual peculiarities of which Eyebright displays a few though she is remarkably well photographed unlike many. The single most useful and in some respects the only one you truly need is the cheapest currently at £10 from Seaforth and that's the John Lambert/Les Brown volume bottom right. I wish the other volumes iin the series were as good. The mst expensive (at least for me - don't ask) is Raven's Warship Perspectives, now getting very hard to come by and probably not worth what people are asking. The Ensign 3 has some very nice photos for inspiration but little on the technical side. The Anatomy of the Ship is heavy on plans and line drawings but mainly relates to short Focsle vessels and contains little extra from the Seaforth book. Canada's Flowers is mostly pictorial and opens up a host of further Canadian Variations. IMHO £10 and the Lambert/Brown "Flower Class Corvettes" buys all you need to model most of the vessels. And so to the base which nowadays I complete before or at the start of the build. I've been in the comfort zone with recent builds depicting calm water (which I actually prefer) but the need is to replicate the the phots of Eyebright so I decided to return to a method that i used for the Anchusa base (my first) and that's heat applied to the Styrofoam surface as suggested by Chris Flodberg. I use a long heated balde to cut the styrofoam... A Matthews Family Christmas tradition is for me to receive a kitchen implement each year. A couple of years ago I received the blow torch which shameful to say has only had one kitchen outing but has found a far mre imprtant use to heat my long blade cutting knife. I'd previously used a lighter to heat the styrofoam on Anchusa..... It was a little too uniform as in respect of the waves and a bit crude but I did like the ripples. This time I experimented with the blow torch which actaully gives a bit more control However - one initeresting finding is that this Styrofoam has a "Grain". In the above pic despite me moving the burner sideways the ripples went at right angles to the direction of the sweep. I went back tried again and sure enough turning the styrofoam 90 degrees the ripples ended up IN the direction of the sweep, so in effect the ripples sat as they would with the wind blowing over the water in the direction of the waves. I also tried with the denser grey foam whihc does NOT deform in the same manner. So if you try the heat method 1) Use the cream medium density styrofoam 2) Determine which way the "grain" runs on a test piece, so as to ensure the ripples "run" with the direction of the waves Pretty much like this.... Here's the finished base Meanwhile work continued on the hull which actually fits together very nicely. The fitting and bridge superstructure on these models are awful but the hull is very pleasing - it's a little odd As per Anchusa, I added Bulwark supports that really do make a difference With the hull completed - I made a new template and cut out a profile in the styrofoam. I'm trying to get more accurate with this and now deliberately make the profile slightly too small. It can then be gently filed bigger to allow for as snug a fit as possible The arrangement of the D/C throwers and placement of refills is different so with carfeul reference to the photos I placed the D/C lifting davits approrpriately. The raised sidewall supports seemed to be slightly higher on Eyebright so I scratched some Next up was to build the wheel house after cutting the windows out and then to begin to build the bridge from the White Ensign etch This is where the detail on the Micromaster additions will show The etch builds really nicely - finally beginning to look like a Corvette More soon Thanks for looking Rob
  6. Nice detailing on the Bridge Superstructure. FWIW Black Cat do some Compass binnacles and a Pylorus in Their Deck accessories set No 1 which Starling may have (cheaper delivery) Rob
  7. Nice job on the funnel Jon. And no to Billy Cotton's Bandshow I'm afraid.......... Rob
  8. Hi - We're all different. I always prime - and most commonly use Mig Ammo "One Shot" which I believe is also sold under the Stynylrez label. You might not necessarily need it if you are using Colourcoats but I prefer it, certainly with PE etch such as railings and it also shows up flaws on hullls etc which you can then remedy before top coating. As Michal says Alclad is pretty fail safe too by general consensus. Rob
  9. Jon - nice work on the paddles which look Fab. Your usual rate of progress is making me ask myself - what do I do with my time?? Rob
  10. Hi Ropuch - If you weather with any oils or enamel products (washes panel liner etc) then it's necessary to spray the "Colourcoats" with an acrylic sealing layer (varnish) beforehand OR you risk the oil/enamel products "lifting" the Colourcoats paint. (Actually you need to scrub hard to really do this but...). I personally use Klear (acrylic floor polish) which sprays beautifully undiluted. It's been rebadged so now appears under a different label (?Pledge. Future - search the forums - there'll be a few threads signposting you). Vallejo gloss or satin varnish will do the same and also allows you to lay decals if needs at this stage. Personally I use oils for weathering - check my WIPs for details which then tend to matte the surface and I hardly EVER actually varnish the finished model after. I suspect that when people think of enamel paints they immediately associate them with high gloss finishes. Not so with Colourcoats that dry to a dull sheen - though the actual colours and finishes vary. I thin the paints 50 : 50 though the paint thickness from the pot does vary - you aim for that old maxim "consistency of milk". If there's any doubt thin more. Spray in light coats and depending on coats - you can handle within 3-4 hours if you are careful. Clearly the longer you wait the better the paint will set. A pleasant surprise is that you use "Hairspray" technique with Colorcoats and I've used white spirit (very carefully) to lift and water works as well. I spray at 15-20psi, as I said above - smell is negligble, I spray at a desk without extraction and you can acheive very fine detail in the spray, I try to avoid using brushes now as much as possible. The other benefit is that it is FAR easier to clean the airbrush - I normally use Low odour white spirit and every so often "Sprayaway" (which does smell) through the brush spraying the excess into an old plastic icecream tub full of cat litter. I spend far longer cleaning my brush with Vallejo or other acrylics and end up using far more Sprayaway! FWIW - I bought some old fashioned brown glass "Dropper bottles" from Ebay for a couple of pounds and decant the thinner into the paint in little plastic cups that we got from using Braun thermometer "caps" (my old job). Like you - I was sceptical about enamels before actually using them! I reluctantly use acrylics now only when there are no enamel alternatives and then I brace myself for airbrush clogging and wiping the needle every 30 secs Convert - Yes! Here endeth - good luck - looking forwards to seeing this build Rob
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