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bootneck

Product Reviewer
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bootneck last won the day on January 14 2018

bootneck had the most liked content!

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About bootneck

  • Rank
    White plastic man
  • Birthday 08/20/1948

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Somerset, UK
  • Interests
    1/144 scale aircraft; 1/350 scale ships

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    mike.costello@btinternet.com

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  1. Thanks Tommo. I didn't know about the SRN-4, I shall have to keep a lookout to try and find one. cheers, Mike
  2. The post you refer to was written in 2015 and the kit has been out since then, although it is temporarily out of stock at the moment whilst it is being upgraded.. I travelled to Borneo from Singapore on Wilkieston during that conflict and so I have one of the kits. It is a nice little kit Mike
  3. Similar, Artie advised me last Sunday that they've been hit by a heatwave (i.e. higher than normal Canarian heat) coming over from the Sahara. That must affect the ability to produce moulds and cast in that heat. I don't think they have air-conditioning at the workbench. I took a couple of video shots (phone) of the guys making vacform canopies, for the Scimitar or Swift I think, when I was there but I don't know how to attach or show them on here. Mike
  4. Hi Anil, that Plastic Magic could be a solution, if the evaporation time is slower than normal cements. As you can see, in my post #6, there are a lot of long thin strips to be coated and the first have usually evaporated before I have got to the last frames. I have had a go with epoxy's and two-medium mixes but these are too thick to apply to these 1mm frame strips.This is my main problem, covering the equivalent of fourteen 1mm strips in each frame (the red pieces in the photo's) so that they adhere to the clear plastic of the grating. It is also becoming too expensive for me to keep "buying and trying" and I really could do with help from someone who has actual experience of this type of glueing. I have found a material that sticks with ordinary glue, such as Revell Contacta Professional, and that is the clear cover of a CD case; however the cover is just a little too thick to be in scale. If I could find a rigid clear plastic of the same material as a CD cover but only about 30 thou (0.75mm) thick then I think my problem would be solved. I'm looking forward to hearing of your successful results on your tests Anil. With regard to that Oil Rig.......... haven't you finished that yet? cheers Mike
  5. Is that the starting gun for the Ten Tors race? Mike
  6. I have opened the link and captured the url here. Hopefully that will work for you. Mike
  7. Works for me, loads of pictures of Sea Kings, rotor blades and other military impedimenta for sale. The header says "Witham Specialist Vehicles Ltd, so you could Google that. Mike
  8. bootneck

    Pre-owned pricing.

    This post has no relevance to the genuine query posted by the originator and is more suited to the Grump thread. Don't hi-jack people's threads just to vent your spleen on the world! Mike
  9. That's what my wife's friends told her when we started dating!
  10. I have had a look on Plastruct's site and they sell clear sheet in three types: Clear styrene sheet; clear Acrylic sheet and clear copolyester sheet. Has anyone used these with standard contact glue (Revell/Humbrol etc.) or liquid cement (Tamiya thin etc.) with success? If so, which type is best with the contact glue or cement? Appreciate any helpful replies, thanks. Mike
  11. You REALLY do need to get down to Specsavers Anil!! Mike
  12. Thanks to all those who contributed suggestions but I think I must be using the wrong type of clear sheet. Although I got it from a model shop it seems obvious that it's not good for simple model building. So, I need to change my request: Which clear plastic/styrene sheet do I need that will glue to white plastic/styrene sheet with normal contact glue? I normally use 20thou (0.10mm) and 30thou (0.20mm) plastic sheet, such as Plastruct or Evergreen, so anything that is of a similar material but clear would be great. cheers Mike
  13. Thanks Ron, the two above are particularly interesting, any chance of larger resolution versions please? I opened them in Flickr but they won't enlarge. cheers Mike
  14. Doh!! it is usually prudent to check one's own resources before asking for help on the forum! I have just found this plan in one of my books. Mike the not thinking properly
  15. I thought I would show what I am trying to do with joining clear sheet to plastic. I have started to build my Apollo/Saturn tower but the platform gratings are see through. I haven't found a decent enough metal/brass mesh that matches and so have cut my own from clear plastic sheet. The intention is to join all the red plastic underframes to the clear plastic gratings. The large opening is for the lift/elevator shaft and the small for the staircase. As can be seen below, there is a fair amount of the underframes that need to be glued, otherwise the grating could lift in places This is a view of the test jig I've made (painted grey) to keep the platforms aligned as I build up. This is all experimental at the moment, so the pieces have rough edges and paint missing etc., plus the elavators, stairs and power units need to be built. cheers Mike
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