bootneck

Here you go Bill, This diagram shows the arrangements for cargo, troop carrying, air-casevac and internal long-range fuel tanks. cheers Mike

Here is the link to the dockyard kit Mike

Sorry about that, I did try to find a 'Royaly Free' image which I could post but I was unsuccessful. I do have plenty of images, I just cannot attribute owners therefore cannot ask for permission to use them. Hopefully more to follow soon. Mike

Hello all, I would like to join this GB with the intention of scratchbuilding a model of HMS Ark Royal IV to 1:350 scale. The period I have chosen is her first commission (6th actual 1970-73) since receiving the full angled-deck conversion. The carrier had a fair few visual changes occur during her subsequent career, mostly helo-spot relocations and the Phantoms being upgraded with tail ECM pods etc. As such, I have chosen the period that I have most references for. Herewith the obligatory image of the tools and kit parts Let the cutting commence! Mike

OK, so Victorious it is then. only joking.... I shall make an attempt of the Ark. Mike

Hi Calistan, unlike warships, that door is a flush fit with the funnel and I would recommend something like a decal to represent it rather than adding something that will sit proud of the surface. You could then just add the hinges and latch handles. I have this kit in 1:350 scale and I am looking forward to seeing (and learning from) your progress. cheers, Mike

Hi Rob, I have been wanting to join this GB for a while, however I haven't been able to find enough details for what I wanted to build. My subject would have been HMS Endurance, the 1960's version but now I shall attempt an aircraft carrier to 1:350 scale. It looks like I still have a day to decide and it will be a choice between HMS Victorious, post 1958 rebuild, or HMS Ark Royal IV, post 1970 rebuild: when they had full angled-decks fitted. So, it's going to be Sea Vixens vs Phantoms at the moment! Mike

Welcome back Artie, however your mancave looks to be far too tidy and needs plenty of paint and glue splodges around! I'm very please to hear about Scratchaeronautics re-invention and I am honoured to find my suggestions have been of help. During my visit with you, I saw that you had some great products in the pipeline and also your future projects would be impressive, so I am really pleased that it is all coming together for you and the team. I also believe that your Saturday model building session routine is one of the best I have encountered: two hours model building and chatting at the shop interspersed with a couple of hours at the local restaurant then onto the bar! followed by more modelling (sort of ) Are you and the guys coming over to SMW in November? It would be really great to see you again, and for everyone to see your models! All the best, Mike

Hi Will, RAF blue grey gloss as can be seen in this image. Mike

I use Oyumaru regularly and the method I use is to heat up water in a pan and keep it on the simmer throughout my mouldings. I tend to do about 10 items at a time and usually do two-part mould, for a better 3D effect. I prepare the piece to be moulded and put a piece of Oyumaru into the hot water and leave it for about 3-5 minutes. That way, it gets really soft and gooey. There are two ways that I make my moulds: 1. leave the part on the bench and press down the Oyumaru onto it, this helps to push the mould into deep recesses on the part. 2. place the hot Oyumaru on the bench and push the part into it. The benefit of second method is that the bench helps keep the mould level which is ideal when pouring resin into the open one-part mould. The mould sets fairly quickly, usually about 10 minutes or so and sets quite solid. If I am making a two-part mould, then I usually put the first mould (with the part still attached) into the fridge to speed up the cooling/settling whilst I am warming up the second piece of mould. If using the two-part method then it is advisable to spray the first mould with a releasing agent once cooled. A word of caution, Oyumaru sets to rigid mould once cooled and won't bend easily. This means that it would be very difficult to remove form any undercuts on the part being copied. If can post some images, next time I am doing some moulding, if you are interested. The major benefit of Oyumaru, for me, is when I have cast enough of the parts I want, I can then pop the mould back into hot water and it becomes soft, ready to re-use on something else. That makes this a very economical method of mould making. cheers, Mike

Thanks John, I hadn't noticed that zoom icon, that should help considerably with my calculating the shape and size of the type 983. I have had better luck with the type 984 radar. cheers Mike

I agree, however I have looked through the two hundred or so photo's that I have found so far and none show this detail. The photo's are either taken upwards from the flight deck (as in the image in my original request) or from a considerable distance. Hence my request for assistance on this as I seem to have exhausted my ability. Cheers, Mike

That's great, thanks for identifying this for me. At least I now know what type; now, does anyone have a source for the dimensions? I need to build two, plus the rotating base for each. Thanks again Mike

Hi Folks, what type of radar is this? Does anyone have the dimensions and/or a plan of one please? This image shows one, of two, onboard HMS Ark Royal IV, Grateful for any help in identifying the dimensions on this as I hope to scratchbuild one. Cheers Mike

The photo's of the test build model look a bit clunky; nonetheless, I shall be ordering one of these when they become available here. Mike