baldwin8

Are you referring to this? Found on a Twitter feed, view looking from the front. I'm enjoying your progress.

A tough paint scheme to pull off, but you did well. Those subjects a bit more less common always make a display stand out. Very Well Done.

That Eagle is soaring with the best. Well built and presented. Congratulations. I will add the weathering is subtle and effective.

Gathering the paint for the application. No great matches available but I pieced together some bottles for a close match. Their Hues are similar, they will just have to be toned down a certain extent. The Revell paint is not available in Canada, so it will be a combination of Vallejo and Tamiya. What the final colours should come close to, with some scale lightening. The ladder just requires the top step added then painting, wearing. Sorry for the slow progress, but still on track.

Will follow this one, mine arrived yesterday and pleased they now included cabin windows. Noted that the fuselage panel lines are extremely faint. Good luck with the build.

Perfect as usual Colin. Lots of display case acreage required for that one.

Looks like you've decaled your way into a corner.

That Zero is a Ten. Love the less than usual scheme.

This event was a maintenance practice cause. After 40+ years in the aviation maintenance, digital or analog makes no difference. I've seen cases of control cables for engine/flight controls not installed/adjusted correctly, etc etc..

Always loved the Jaguar, you have a real nice showpiece there.

Here are some pics of my soldering work and setup. A Weller with adjustable temp settings. I keep it at the setting shown, not too hot and not too cold, seems to work well. Earlier in my aviation training along the way we were given a course on soldering but I don't think the Avionics guys ever thought we would seriously do any work on the aircraft. Japanese Modeller Uemura Akihiro inspired me with his solder work. I prefer a paste flux. Some solder I've accumulated over the years from shops and co-workers tool boxes. I've got enough to last for all the modelling I will ever do. Getting the first rungs attached is crucial to making sure everything is straight. The wood block helps dissipate the heat and a heavy cardboard helps keeps things aligned. Rather than melt a bunch of solder on the tip of the iron, I prefer to lay some flux where I want the solder to go and cut very small pieces of solder then place them on the gel flux. Then using the tip of the iron placed closed to the solder joint touching the brass and allowing the heat to transfer to the area I want joined and melting the solder. This picture show the small pieces of solder before I apply the heat. I hope I come across clear in this technique I discovered another modeller was using. The first rungs in place and soldered areas will be filed down when complete. The ladder has 7 rungs, so the top, bottom and middle are attached and the other 4 will be placed evenly between. Little assemblies like this bring a great deal of satisfaction in a build. Thank you for checking this out. Craig

On shift today, I will get some pics and information of my setup. My soldering is nothing special but there are Youtubers that can better explain the process, but I will show how I approach a project like this. No bother. Of course I assume you know your way around a tank? My Leopard is actually a 2A4 CAN, meaning, our (the Canadian Army) version of a 2A4 for which I used the Meng kit. For a 1990's version you will need to go a totally different route but if you need to research check out leopardclub.ca . This is my 2A4 before completion. Thank you for checking in.

By all means. Here is some solder work I did last summer on a Canadian Leopard tank mod. The kit didn't come with turret baskets so I used a plastic one as the master and manufactured a pair. I do enjoy the soldering, it will take a gentle touch to get the ladder rungs all even.

A tardy update but still at it. Outboard wings attached and starting the rebuild of the droopy ailerons. The outboard wing sections attach okay, but not perfect. Manufacturers always seem to overdo the pin hole effect on the intakes and none as overdone as on this Hasegawa kit. Massive recessed sections. I've covered and blended in with .005" plastic. For the noted sections I will spray with an extremely light coat of smoke clear, leaving them separate until painted. The paint booth will be prepped soon. I purchased a new camera for my photography hobby so it bit into my spare time. I will edit this to add this photo starting the boarding ladder scratch using the ZM 48th version as my master.

Very striking finish. I love the subtle shading.