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kiseca

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  1. It might not have been what you meant, but it absolutely was what you said. As for the charming comment, that makes us even, I didn't find your original response to me charming, either. But whatever. Have a nice day, I'm not here to have arguments with testy strangers.
  2. The comment of mine that you quoted was "the whole aircraft is pretty much a what if..." You responded to that sentence with "this is basically a kit of that replica, so hard to say it's a what-if." So no, you weren't talking about the painting scheme at that point.
  3. Thanks for that. I didn't realise the kit is based on the replica - the original as far as I know is still on display in Wisconsin so I would have assumed they'd use that. As far as I know the original never flew, hence what if, as it never never got the chance to fulfil its purpose.
  4. I couldn't imagine it in anything but blue. Anyone know what that second scheme represents in context of the aircraft itself? It's the colours of the French flag, but I don't know if it was ever painted in that scheme, not if it was ever planned to be. So, I'm not sure if it's a "what if" scheme, but then the whole aircraft is pretty much a what if...
  5. Currently reading "Flying Freestyle" by Jerry Pook and very much enjoying it because his career spans such a huge spread of aircraft, starting off with Tiger Moths in his first flying experiences and then going through about 3 generations of fast jets in his RAF career. Very diverse, interesting aircraft but he also likes to describe not just his adventures in them but also what they felt like to fly. It's a book I haven't seen come up on this thread yet so thought it was worth mentioning.
  6. Yeah I've read about that too! Similar for the H&S, they can dry up and need lubricant from time to time. I wasn't expecting it for a brand new product though. My worry was it might just need lubricating, but if it's been missed straight out of the factory when mine was built, what else did they miss on it? And I'm not experienced enough with airbrushes to start tinkering with it and trying to get it working from day 1. If I know it works now, then at some time in the future when it stops working I can start troubleshooting. I know what the baseline feels like, if that makes sense. With an airbrush that doesn't work properly from day 1, I have no idea what it should feel like to use as a reference point. The H&S trigger action felt grainy to me, for instance, but the seller said it felt normal to them. So was that a part of the problem or was it how the brush should feel? For me, I didn't trust I'd got a good one so I switched. EDIT: Also I did go up a price bracket when I switched, which probably makes a difference too. Iwatas have problems too, but my anecdotal impression is that their quality control is a bit stronger than H&S.... or it could simply be that they are less popular airbrushes than Ultras because they are more expensive. If more people have Ultras, we'd hear about more problems. I must say the price of Ultras has dropped quite a bit since I got mine, it looks like a very good deal at the moment.
  7. I bought an H&S Ultra 1 in 2 last year to replace my budget airbrush. Unfortunately it constantly had what I guess was a sticky valve, so there would, not all the time but at least with every two or three presses of the trigger, still be some air coming out when I released the trigger. Sometimes it was a really obvious flow, close to full strength. Other times it was almost impossible to feel but could be seen if I aimed the brush at a glass of water. You'd see the indentation from the air pressure. It was like that from the start and, after sending it back and having it repaired, it still had the problem. If it had been my first airbrush I wouldn't have known any better at first. As it is, it never saw any paint in it and was replaced with an Iwata Revolution CR (0.5mm needle in mine, but also available with a 0.3 needle). A fair bit more expensive than the H&S but better quality finish, more durable seals and it worked properly straight out of the box and still does. Downside is you can't swap needles in it. Or you can, but it's not as simple as the H&S and the parts are a fair chunk more expensive, so it's not practical. I see the prices of both have come down a bit since I bought mine but the difference is about the same still. Still a lot cheaper than an Eclipse. So maybe it is your technique / pressure, but I see a couple of posts above also describe H&S airbrushes that have never worked properly so it could be that too so I wouldn't discount the airbrush as the problem. My story is anecdotal, there are plenty of happy Ultra users, but even so, I'll be paying the extra and sticking with Iwata for the future. I see fewer problem stories about them.
  8. Looks decent to me.... but I must say, accurate or not, I'll be damned if I'm painting a big ugly white cross on mine
  9. Seems like the best idea. I have a terribly pedantic streak that often makes me very reluctant to deviate from a plan or instructions, and in this case compels me to use the decals just because they are there It makes choices like this feel like a disproportionately important decision. Painting it seems the best solution and would give a better looking result than the decals anyway.
  10. Wings with their pylons were assembled this weekend. Not a big challenge there. The pylons have little C-shaped clips that go on the inside of the lower surface of the wing, while a mushroom shaped shaft on top of the pylon goes through a hole in the wing. The C-clip then wraps around the shaft, securing the pylon to the wing while allowing it to rotate to be manually aligned with the wing's sweep angle. I should have taken photos but didn't. I'll post some later of the instructions. Anyway I was worried about the C-clips becoming detached inside the wing, which would allow the pylon to fall off. They don't clip in very securely and if they fall off once the aircraft is assembled it would be a disaster as I'd have to separate the top and bottom body halfs first in order to be able to separate the wing halfs and get to the clip. Both operations would risk damage to the body and wing. The alternative would be to glue the pylon to the wing, which would mean I'd lose the option to change the wing sweep should I ever want to. So I glued the c-clips to the wing half, trying my best not to get glue through to the pylon shaft itself, thus leaving the pylon free to rotate. Hopefully this means the clip is secure. I am now stuck with a painting dilemna. The wings sweep, which means either the front or the back is partially obscured within the body at any time. This makes painting a challenge so it makes sense to paint the wings before assembling the fuselage. However, I want to paint the rest of the fuselage after assembly (the wings will at this point be in place because of the sweep mechanism) so that I can smooth any joins out before painting them. There are a lot of joins on the fuselage because the vertical stabiliser is separate, the elevons are separate, the cockpit is a separate section, the intakes are separate..... I think there's going to be a bunch of tidying up involved before I can paint all that lot! The problem comes in with the wings.... they are mostly black, but the inner surfaces, the parts that will always be partially obscured in the fuselage, are grey.... and Revell provided decals for the grey bits. Handy because that patch of colour has a complex pattern, these look like they will be much easier added to the wing before they are assembled into the fuselage, but then how will I mask them when painting the fuselage without pulling the decals back off? I might use the decals to make a masking template and paint the grey sections on instead. I need to dry fit the lot together first though and see what's going to look like the best solution. Maybe it's possible to add the decals after assembly if the gaps are bit enough. Anyway those are adventures for later. Pictures will follow as I try solve all that.
  11. Welcome on board! It will be a slow moving topic... I really am a fair weather builder who might manage to trim and sand a half dozen bits in an evening while I'm not focussing on the telly Managed to prime the tub over the weekend but that will need sanding too as I left a run..... I love the Tamiya spray cans but the paint comes out so fast that it's very easy for me to get a run if I don't move it quickly enough. Also had to paint the inside surfaces of the side panels. Firstly because some of it will be visible through gaps in the tub near the front suspension bulkhead / subframe or whatever it is. According to the Haynes manual it's a magnesium casting, bolted to the front of the tub, that almost everything about the front suspension, steering and wing bolt on to. Murray seemed particularly happy with that piece of engineering in his commentary. Second reason for painting the inside surfaces is I noticed that the panel is letting a lot of light through, enough that I think the different areas where it's connected to the black tub versus here it's open behind will show through as different shades. I'm hoping a coat on the back helps minimise this.
  12. I also enjoyed the first couple of seasons of Designated Survivor and think it went downhill after that.
  13. I bought the Haynes manual for the photos but it makes excellent reading too. Race by race description of the results and the changes made to the car, a chapter about all the other cars from that year, a whole bunch of driver impressions at the end, and of course the story of its development. It is very well put together and is a wealth of information. I got one for the Lotus 79 too.
  14. I've always admired the Tornado. I think it's one of the prettiest jets. Some tease it for its huge tail but I've always thought it is beautifully proportioned. With its wings swept back, hungry intakes leaning into the slipstream and shallow glasshouse tucked down low in the fuselage, it looks mean, purposeful, sleek and fast. Then there's its low level performance. At one point it was the fastest aircraft in the world at low level, for all I know it still is. Then there's that brilliant terrain following radar that allows it to hug the countryside at high speed on autopilot. In the Gulf, TFR led low level sorties turned out to be less effective (or more risky) than hoped, but regardless of how irrelevant that capability may be in modern air warfare, it's still impressive what they can make a plane do. I have a thing for aircraft in unusual liveries so an all-black Tornado with some bright sweeping graphics on it is right up my street. This one will be built wheels up, wings back to be displayed in flight, as sleek as it gets. I'll make a display stand for it and have also purchased a turbine blade from an RB199 engine to display with it. I was at first thinking of making a stand out of the turbine blade but I think it will look better on a pair of exhaust mounted perspex tubes and with the blade displayed separately on the base. Anyway first impressions of the kit are very Revell in my experience: I'm very impressed with how much detail is moulded into the parts. There are rivets and sunken panels everywhere, and some wonderfully crisp, tight edges just where they should be, like on the intakes. Surprising then how much flash there is in the mouldings. I'm expecting at some point to find some part that just doesn't fit with its mate, I'm just not sure what that will be yet. Also surprised at that number of parts for 1/72. The cockpit assembly is 15 pieces if you exclude the wheel well that's added to it before it's sealed in the fuselage, for example. So far everything has gone together well at least. On to the pictures. Here's the box art: I haven't done much on the aircraft. So far I've only assembled the front fuselage. I gave the cockpit some definition but it's going to be closed up so I didn't focus a lot on the detail. Still need to clean up the joins. And that's it for progress. Next step is assembling and painting the wings and pylons. Here's the turbine blade. It's easier to find a cleaner looking, and larger, fan or compressor blade for an RB199 but I wanted a turbine blade because they have a lot of intricate detail, with all the channels cut into them I believe to help with cooling. I might try tidy this up a little but there won't be much I can do to change its appearance short of getting it plated - which I worry may hide the holes. They are ceramic coated so aren't going to polish up to a nice shine but I can possibly at least get some of the soot staining reduced. I've got plenty of time before I need that done anyway.
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