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Troy Smith

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Troy Smith last won the day on December 15 2022

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About Troy Smith

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    Lewes. Sussex
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    Hurricane data collation

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  1. better than that... https://www.abebooks.co.uk/9781906502515/Secret-Squadron-First-Full-Story-190650251X/plp "Des Curtis was one of the founder members of 618 Squadron. Formed within days of the illustrious 617, 618's primary objective was to mount a daylight low-level attack by Mosquitos on the German battleship Tirpitz within hours of the attack on the Ruhr dams. The operation, codenamed Operation Servant, was given top security classification, to the point where the subject was excluded from the minutes of the meetings of the Chiefs of Staff of the air and naval forces. The author reveals the dilemmas and conflicting priorities existing to the highest levels, setting out in detail the technicalities of developing the 'bouncing bomb'. He also writes first hand about the tactical problems of getting to and from the target; and the tensions and strains endured by the Mosquito crews themselves, as they took the war to the German U-Boats within the sight and safety of their bases." The 'bouncing bomb' were the Highball Mosquitos, sent to Australia but never used in combat. Used copies are cheap, even more distractions... I have a copy, can't recall a huge amount about it as I got it for the Highball section, having a Paragon Highball conversion in the stash..
  2. A B-24 with a B-17 nose grafted on... see https://www.secretprojects.co.uk/threads/hybrid-b-24-b-17.14122/ I'd also suggest editing out the * expletive, there is a no swearing even if disguised policy. It's funiier to cuss like a 1950's comic book 'oh gosh darn it' kinda thing
  3. I did that when I first joined... I did the colour shift as I like blue. I'd have to think why I picked it, it was a long time ago. The B-52 looks like box art? From the user name possibly ex USAF? it's an awful lot easier to find information when you know what too look for and what to filter out. You can change your user name, you just need to ask @Mike nicely, though I don't know if 'Gruntpa' is that flattering. If you want the single stage Griffon you need to so some surgery and research. It near heresy one here but I'm not that interested in Spitfires, but it's hard to get away from the damn things on here.. Not sure where in the frozen north east USA, one of members @gingerbob who does know an awful lot about Spitfire is Maine. Re Griffon this in the caption (to right) is listed as Griffon Mk.II - Spitfire XII Rolls Royce Griffon II / 88 by Thomas Vogt, on Flickr this is Griffon 65, note the two sets of impellers at the rear for the two stage supercharger, which is why it's longer, as you can see the main engine block is basically the same, it the stuff at the back that's different. There will be images of Seafire XV/XVII warbirds with the cowls off so you can see how the engine bearers look, though I the the rear parts are just shorter. Be worth asking in the WW II section. HTH
  4. errormaster. The two black stripes in that position look unlikely. without a photo. Ah and a good article on the Arma Hobby blog https://armahobbynews.pl/en/blog/2024/01/26/sea-hurricane-mk-iic-in-the-battle-of-the-atlantic/ Does not give an ID though . And not mentioned in link is lack of underside stripes, note the Swordfish with stripes in background. A lack of anti glare likely from this and is the only one to show D-Day stripes, just visible between cannon on starboard wing. ah, no.... see https://www.telegraph.co.uk/obituaries/2022/10/13/ken-atkinson-naval-fighter-pilot-whose-sea-hurricane-became/ though usual level of research and accuracy on the Airfix kit, "On June 27 1944, however, Atkinson crashed Sea Hurricane NF 672, nicknamed “Nicki”, into the barrier of Nairana while on Gibraltar convoy. Atkinson’s was the specific aircraft used by Airfix – with markings K7 and serial number NF 672 on the tail – for their kit of the Sea Hurricane, well-known to schoolboys and older modellers." while showing a model of the 2010 Airfix kit... and AFAIK there were no all white Wildcats... "835 Naval Air Squadron (NAS) launched its Wildcat fighters from the escort carrier Nairana. In their distinctive – and unofficial – all-white camouflage, the Wildcats" @iang ? anyway... which is great shot not in the usual places All images of the white 835 Sq Sea Hurricanes show camo left as anti glare. previous on 835 Sq https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/62619-colour-of-the-all-white-sea-hurricanes/ https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234990605-835-nas-sea-hurricane-iic/
  5. OK, to give you an idea, try this https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235067463-so-whats-actually-wrong-with-special-hobbys-spitfire-xii/ so you can see various peoples views on the kit. Bear in mind my comment on some of the cross kitting. Why bother, it's easier to fix the kits issues if you can see them. Again, easiest way to do Spitfire XII in 1/48th is the Special Hobby kit, fixed if you need. The Airfis kit is likely an easier build, but has a load of issues. or https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234995521-building-a-better-spitfire-xii/ Which if nothing else deal with many of the questions and details of the airframe. There are more threads, dealing with doing this in 1/72nd. There are plenty online, this is a useful selection. https://www.raf-in-combat.com/downloads/spitfire-mk-xii/ I assume these are all in this https://www.raf-in-combat.com/downloads/squadrons-no-5-the-supermarine-spitfire-mk-xii/ They were only 100 built, and the only combat use was by 41 and 91 Squadrons, and later with an AA co-operation unit, 595 Sq, of which I know of 1 photo Spitfire F. XII MB837 of 595 Squadron during the summer 1945. also https://www.destinationsjourney.com/historical-military-photographs/supermarine-spitfire-mk-xii/ this got discussed on here, as the Griffon was powerful, and also the prop rotates in the opposite direction to the Merlin, ground crew tended to use different pressures in the oleo legs to counter act this, hence the lopsided angle above. The photos in the links cover the subject very well, actually I can only think of a few more not in the links, these cover most angles well. Casidio Spitfire XIV I presume? Aires did a set for the Airfix Spitfire 22/24 this is two stage Griffon, but the main engine block is the same, as are the front parts of the engine bearers, as is the front section of the cowling. Grand Phoenix did a boxing of the Airfix kit, well, the Seafire, as a special edition with a resin engine https://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/kits/gp/kit_gp_seafire.shtml which maybe findable in the USA on the used market. while you are unlikely to find images of Spitfire XII uncolwed there are warbird Spitfire XV and XVII http://www.venturapublications.com/news/publish/Seafire-engine-detail.shtml You can get the SH XII kit in the USA easily eg https://spruebrothers.com/sph48107-1-48-special-hobby-supermarine-spitfire-mk-xii/ Have a read, and if you would like clarifications ask away. HTH
  6. I'd be wary of the Replikator club mixes. I know that XF-17 has changed color dramatically over time, I have an old 23ml jar that is blue-green, and new 10 Ml jar which more of a blue-black. That said they look reasonable on my screen @Casey has done matches/mixes for many of the ANA colors using Tamiya PS this maybe the one you want HTH
  7. BS381C 217 - Sea green look it up on epaint https://www.e-paint.co.uk/colour-alternatives.asp it's not specifically an aircraft colour, but part of the BSC381C range of colours. BS 381 C is NOT the WW2 standard, and it's not colour I have ever run across in the context of WW2 paint schemes. Question - why is Taiwan using a British Standard colour? Answer is likely someone has said this is similar in colour when asked. Similar is the crucial bit, epaint only shows up four similar colours. This kind of question comes up a lot, and the use of other colour standards for 'matches' is useful as long as you know the limitations, and who has provided the 'match' So, where/how did the idea that this is "BS 217 Sea Green" arise from, and what are the other colours shown? I would suspect in Taiwan an FS595 color, the US government color range, is more likely, but it may just be a local color. If it's local then you may as well eyeball a mix from the photo. As has been suggested, this should be in modern armour, not WW2 aircraft, as the real question is does anyone know what paint this is, or what paint standard does Taiwan use? The latter is much more of a rabbit hole, and this may even be classified information given tensions between China and Taiwan. Apologies if sounds like a lecture, just I have read and participated in many paint discussions on here and issues that arise. And, as always @Casey would be a good person to ask. HTH PS I put in a thread report suggesting moving it to modern armour Note, three dots top left, you can edit your post, as what you are really asking Taiwanese CM-34 Clouded Leopard, light green colour match which as a thread heading shows exactly what you are asking
  8. Erm, several points here. I do not know of a exposed Griffon for the single stage Griffon models. The single stage Griffon are only in Spitfire XII, Seafire XV and XVII. All the others are two stage supercharger and are longer at the rear of engine. Have you searched Scalemates? Also you would need a new prop and spinner. You want a Mk.XII, start with Mk XII kit to be honest, the Special Hobby is better than the Airfix kit, despite what you might read. Re the build, you have already added the smaller oil cooler, correct for Mk.XII or Mk.V, not any of the Merlin 60 variants. Detail points The external wheel well, the circular tyre bit is underside colour, not internal colour. The small tear drop bulges on upper wing over wheel Wells are post war only for use with the 3 spoke wheel. The circular hole on the fuel tank in front of cockpit is a filler cap, you appear to have filled this. Flaps are normally retracted on the ground, only dropped for maintenance. The Hasegawa kit is noted for having an undersized rear fuselage, the Eduard Merlin 60 kits basically have made all the others obsolete. The Hase kit looks fine on its own, but can look odd next to a correctly proportioned model. What you have done so far look great, I'd just fix the radiator and make Mk.IX. HTH
  9. Use something as a test mule, old kit, cheap toy, (look in charity or pound shops) even rigid packaging, old CD case, basically anything you can use to replicate what you intend to do on your model, and test it on there first. Most kits have spare decals, so try out a spare on something finished in the way your model is. the only 'wrong' way is to get a result you are unhappy with, and the 'right' way is a result you like, how you achieve that is your choice, it very easy to get dazzled by youtubers and snazzy builds online. Well worth doing a work in progress, or join one of the group builds, great way to get feedback, hints and tips and overall encouragement, and it's interesting seeing your work at one step removed and in a common format. Beginners are very welcome too. Also, depending on where you are in Sussex, there are 3 model clubs, IPMS Mid Sussex (see link below for details, next meeting is this Thursday BTW, contact details in link) Southdowns Model Group, both meet at Southwick between Brighton and Worthing, and IPMS East Sussex/Hailsham Modellers, meets in Hailsham. Well worth going along as then you can ask questions and see how things are done, or how other modellers approach them. HTH
  10. Correct, It's not very good, and does not fit well. I'm trying to do this OOB, I did get distracted by the wheel wells and should have just stuck with the blanking sheet..... Likewise the spinner is not very good, but pretty much anything you replace on this is the proverbial 'lipstick on a pig' In another bout of "I should have just stuck with" I found that my prop mount was angled internally, so the prop would not sit flush Cue a load of faffing that amazingly didn't cause major damage, as I proceeded to try to drill this out which got progressively worse, eventually drilling and reaming a large centred hole, that was a snug fit for some brass tube, which a bit plastic tube was a snug fit into, as was the prop shaft after I drilled out the plastic tube.... This took maybe half an hour not helped by having sprained my wrist earlier in the day and certain twisting movements causing pain and worrying about breaking something and/or damaging the paint, though the matt coat has held up very well. And of course this filled the insides up with debris so I had to pop the canopy back off to get all the fragments out.... So, I thought I'd do a quick photo just now.... posed with the concentric bits pulled out before I superglued the brass.... did the pic, glued in brass, check pic and it's a bit blurred, but you can just see what I mean, I can just see plastic fragment inside the canopy place on for the photo. 2024-02-26_02-29-28 by losethekibble, on Flickr the prop does spin though And just visible is my attempt at painting in the wheel slots on the plain hub. My 'deadline' on this is Thursday, as I have a model club meeting and as it is likely the only time it will fall on the 29th of Feb. Thanks for reading and commenting.
  11. 4 points 1.Eduard are notorious for getting their colour photo etch wrong for cockpit colours, and then denying there is a problem. They do at least have an IL-2 in the Czech Republic though... 2.XF-22 is Tamiya's call out for RLM 02, it not very good for that, and most of the Tamiya paint range isn't really matched to anything, though there are greys in the range that likely would do a better job. RLM02 is often misrepresented, it's actually an olive grey. 3. The VVS site? As in Hobbyvista VVS? Hmm, not the best resource as while there was some good info, there was plenty that has since been discredited. 4. Any FS595 given as a match is the best in the limited range of colors in an FS 595 deck. This is a very useful guide on the use of these references, in particular the Fs595 comments https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/blogs/sovereign-about-us-research-and-development/references-how-to-tell-the-good-from-the-bad "The widespread ownership of FS595 in particular has resulted in many enthusiastic people to compare artifacts which predate the 1956-onwards FS595 with a collection of colour chips which other people own. There's nothing wrong with this, but the qualifications often get lost as the references are repeated. Furthermore, compared to the NCS1950 colour system above, FS595 has 950 chips in total, a full 1,000 fewer than NCS1950. Worse, FS595 is split into three sections; FS1xxxx caters for gloss finish chips, FS2xxxx caters for satin finish whilst FS3xxxx caters for matt finish chips. Of the modest 950 chips in total in it, many colours are duplicated or triplicated even across the different finishes. This results in an extremely limited number of discreet colours to compare things to, such that the closest match in FS595 may not actually be very close at all! ! Often cited as widely available in the USA, but unless it refers to an actual FS595 color, it's the closest available. Problem is that they are taken as an "match" rather than "closest too" In the case of VVS colors it's of use, at present @Massimo Tessitori site has exceeded the monthly bandwidth allowance, so I can't check what is suggested there. FS595 is quoted, but often a pair of colors with some qualification, but only really of use if you actually have a FS595 deck to examine in daylight. @Learstang may have the sites A-14 FS595 "match" noted, but as he stated it is a neutral gray. I'd also trust him on what the lighter grey a quick search has shown up. You may already know the above, but you are a new member and may not and perhaps will be of some help. We have some incredibly knowledgeable members here, and you can get answers literally from people who write the books, but it can be quite an information overload to what may seem to be a simple question... hence my sig line about answering questions you didn't know to ask..... HTH
  12. Xtradecal have done a sheet https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/X48240 Note, while the decals look good, the instructions lack correct details, in that NF728, 'K1.F' of 760 Naval Air Squadron, Fleet Air Arm, based aboard HMS Ravager, October 4, 1944 and NF721 'YO.F' of 787Z Naval Air Squadron, Fleet Air Arm, based at RNAS St. Merryn, UK, November, 1943. both are fitted with rocket plates, and NF728 has no cannon fitted (the plates block the ejector slots) I have to put up a thread on this, https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235137113-xtradecal-x48430-sea-hurricane-iic-errata-notes/ I did tell Hannants this, with supporting photos about several of their sheets, but apparently it was "my opinion" https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235118780-sea-hurricane-iic-787-sq-listed-as-nf721-witteringtangmere-object-under-wing/ NF721 NF728 note black spinner and completely removed cannon, not even the stubs Sea Hurricanes HMS Ravager NF722 NF 728 compilation by losethekibble, on Flickr the decals also have no mention of added aerials, note one behind radiator, and in starboard wing as have DK Decals https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/DKD48063 but the IIC are a couple of repeats there are also options on old Aeromaster and Model Alliance sheets, but inevitably the same suspects. the Airfix is a Mk.IB, the Arma Hobby is a Mk.IIC
  13. With announcement of the Arma Hobby Sea Hurricane IIC kit I'm sure there will be interest in alternate schemes Xtradecal anticipated this and have issued this sheet http://www.hannants.co.uk/product/X48240 This looks to be the best of the 4 Hurricane sheets they issued in 2023, but lack some rather crucial details in the painting guide. lack correct details, in that NF728, 'K1.F' of 760 Naval Air Squadron, Fleet Air Arm, based aboard HMS Ravager, October 4, 1944 and NF721 'YO.F' of 787Z Naval Air Squadron, Fleet Air Arm, based at RNAS St. Merryn, UK, November, 1943. both are fitted with rocket plates, and NF728 has no cannon fitted (the plates block the ejector slots) I shall have to put up a thread on this, I did tell Hannants this, with supporting photos about several of their sheets, but apparently it was "my opinion" https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235118780-sea-hurricane-iic-787-sq-listed-as-nf721-witteringtangmere-object-under-wing/ NF721 Rocket plates and rails fitted, no cannon. Spinner maybe Dark Slate Grey, too dark for Sky. Tonal match for the markings Red? @iang ? Sea Hurricanes HMS Ravager NF722 NF 728 compilation by losethekibble, on Flickr NF728 note black spinner and completely removed cannon, not even the stubs in place, also rocket plates but no rails. 760 was being used to train Firefly pilots to fire rockets, so they would have carried rails at some point. The photos above are when they were deck training. Comedy moment, the bottom left image is in the Valiant Wings Airframe and Miniature 16 as an unknown Sea Hurricane IB RP along with a little isometric showing this, an example of total fantasy found in said book. Caveat emptor. regarding the code colour option of Yellow and Sky, the codes should be Yellow as 760 was a training squadron, and this was standard for FAA training units. The code letters are a good tonal match for the roundel yellow. @JackG The decals also have no mention of added aerials, note one behind radiator, and in starboard wing, one of which I presume is IFF3 ? @Bigos @GrzeM @Wojtek Bulhak @Grey Beema @85sqn @StevSmar
  14. with what may I inquire? There are not that many documented Sea Hurricane IIC's. I'm surprised they didn't, the does already have 2 belly panels, and the one from the Airfix kit will fit as well. But if the finish is good, does it matter? one minor point, JS310 is a Canadian built Hurricane, from photos these all seem to have a different radiator intake. This is a Canadian Sea Hurricane from HMS Vindex Long complex thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235086563-hurricane-radiators-is-there-a-tropical-or-later-type-on-the-mkii-and-iv-and-is-there-a-different-canadian-inlet-shape/page/3/#elControls_3957313_menu well worth a read if you are really interested Hurricane detail.
  15. heat. Try a hot compress. The thickness is apparently heat activated glue, you need to use hot water "The best way to get all Japanese decals ( Fujimi, Hasegawa, Tamiya etc)to work as they're supposed to is use hot water and the correct setting solutions. You'll need a bottle each of Gunze Mr Setter and Mr Softer. Micro sol and others won't work as they're formulated differently. Do not use Gunze on Microscale or Cartograf decals as it will chew right through them. Dip the decal in hot water, it doesn't need to be boiling but it does need to be fairly hot. The temperature of a drinkable tea will do. The glue is heat activated and is what makes up most of the thickness. If you dip it in cold water you'll spend the rest of the day waiting and cursing. Lay down some Mr Setter, this is in the blue bottle. It acts as an additional glue. Slide the decal onto it and into postion and leave it alone. The decal should wrinkle a little. Give it 10 mins or so and go over the decal with a brush with a little Mr Softer (green bottle) on it. Use sparingly as it is extremely hot. Too much and it will damage the paint, especially the weaker acrylics. The decal will now wrinkle a lot. Do not touch it as it is almost liquified at this point. Once it is dry it will have smoothed out and will lay down beautifully over just about any raised or recessed detail you care to think of. Used properly it is probably the best conforming decal process in the industry. Used incorrectly and you'll be just another guy complaining about crap Japanese decals." https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235008098-dealing-with-thick-decals-ie-tamiya/#elControls_2464801_menu Kristal Kleer is not a canopy dip, but a high grade clear PVA, for attaching canopies and small aperture glazing. You can use standard PVA for this, I use high end woodwork type, as I have it for DIY, but they all work. Looks Like Glass is probably a self levelling acrylic, the original Kleer/Future was a floor polish that someone made the connection that it was a self levelling clear coat, it fills in small imperfections, and make clear bits look 'clearer'
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