Troy Smith

As Graham says, from when a yellow ring added to the (R/W/B) roundel, as well as fin stripes in May 1940, usually by adding a yellow ring to the existing 35 inch A type (R/W/B) roundel, it was usually done by adding a thinner ring, as the ring width was 7 inch, but you do see full 7 inch rings. (you also see different widths in the same Sq ...) The alternative was a full roundel repaint, though if this was done you wouldn't notice.... Again, this monograph, is still an excellent primer on the when, where and why of these details, but it is confusing. https://boxartden.

Brilliant, one of the most different and interesting models I have seen on here in a while. I presume paper and card, with some plastic or metal add ons? I'd like more pics, and prefrabley from a lower angle with a simple backdrop, as this would really shine then, hvae a look at some of the work of @PlaStix , and I know he'd appreciate this one I, and many others, would be fascinated to see more of how this was done. Look like an ideal subject for the material, being mostly flat surfaces, but as good as any kit or plastic scratch built. Any thing else to

No. The specified colour was Sky. the type S just refers to the type of paint, the 'S' is for smooth. Minor variations occurred, like the Tempest (probably not stirred enough?) but the specified colour was Sky. As the linked Hurricane shows it can look very different due to different light though.

sounds like it. Kleer is no longer avilable, but it's simply a hard wearing self levelling acrylic varnish, for floors, which means it's a durable. The 'self levelling' is why is makes canopies 'clearer' as it fills in little imperfections. Apparently there is a new Kleer, which you could get at Sainsbury's, and is/was a fllor polish that was at Poundstrecher, IIRC @Black Knight mentioned this. Lakeland Quick Shine is rated as being the same as original Kleer https://www.lakeland.co.uk/20286/Quick-Shine-Floor-Finish-800ml "There's nothing like a super

erm, depends. Sky and spinner were (depending) factory applied, the codes were unit applied..... A few years ago I posted this https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/70201-tempest-ej693-medium-sea-grey-squadron-codes/ "having been doing some Tempest research, I finally noticed this interesting detail, that Tempest EJ693, which is an unrestored fuselage, has it's squadron codes in medium sea grey, instead of the usual sky. " which got this response from @Chris Thomas "Oh No they are not! I have had the chance to examine this relic at close quart

Punch and die sets are expensive, so depends on how much you are going to use it, You can make a DIY one with two sheets of perspex and use the back end of drill bits. It's not brilliant, but does work. I made one like this, off hand not sure where it is, and no time to go hunting. If you want more info I'll have a rummage. Not my idea BTW, was suggested by @Iain Wyllie years ago on Hyerpscale I think, I had some perspex offcuts so had a bash at making one. If you have a drill press and can drill metal, that would make a better base plate, with a perspex top

AFAIK, no, note how the lower wing to lower cowling is basically flat. For the sake of clarity, I'll use arabic numerals. (12 not XII) Note the Seafire 15 and 17 use the same single stage Griffon, so they have the same engine installation, so the same cowling, though they lack magneto between the cylinder banks which is the reason for the teardrop bulge between the cylinder bulges from https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/74606-supermarine-seafire/ yes, see in flight pic No, the main engine block p

Mk.I/IIb Arabic numerals are post war. AFAIK, the 1973 Airfix kit you ask about is basically a Mk.I the Mk.II in real life is 4 inches longer, 1/72nd is 6 feet to the inch, so in 1/72ns that is 1/18th of an inch, 1 inch = 25.4mm 25.4mm/18 = 1.41 mm if you want to check, this shows adding the length in 1/48th https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235077619-airfix-hurricane-iia-in-148th-gaffa-tape-here-we-come Note the the Mk.II also has a deeper radiator, and wider carb int

You do basically what you have done here, but cut more off the back of the Griffon nose, the front section of the nose is basically the same on all the Griffon Spitfires. Add the magneto bulges, and 4 blade prop to an Eduard Mk.VIII and that basically it. I'd say it was easier... The two stage Griffons are are longer at the rear of the engine, so the difference is between the firewall and the rear of the engine block. I have measurements of a Seafire 17 cowling somewhere that the owner of one was kind enough to make for me, as I

the XIV fin and rudders catch out a lot of people. " There is some confusion with the rudders fitted to the Mk.14 and 18 Spitfires. I find that the Morgan/Shacklady "bible" is often less than helpful and sometimes irritating. As Edgar mentioned in a previous post (on contra props) the 14/18 fin/rudders areas are given as the same. This is not so and this "red herring"is the cause of some confusion. The 14 fin went through a considerable change in area and the only real reference given in the"bible" is a sketch showing an interim straight leading edge modification and it omits to

Try superglue/talc mixture. dries really fast, and not as hard as plain superglue. Also, really easy for fast touch up. But, work it as soon as workable. If you have not used it before, test on scrap, but i find it carves, scrapes and sands really well. I just use cheap poundshop SG multipacks and talc, and mix it on old jar lids. sprue gloop needs time to dry and degas solvents, in comparison the SG/Talc can be worked in a couple of minutes. This means the fill/sand/check/repeat cycle can be done in minutes, not hours or days. Another possib

Tamiya do a Ki-46 III with a stepped nose I've not seen a Ki-46 II conversion done, I have dim memories it's not that simple, I know the II has different engines, and a different canopy, but a III Kai kit maybe a better starting point? the is a II below. @Toryu has made some informed posting on Japanese types recently, and maybe able to add some further info and correct any misconceptions I may have made also @MDriskill @Blimpyboy

Just checked the linked video, the chap says "the underwing gun bays still there on the four" @ben_m is a PR Spitfire buff, @gingerbob is good on detail. Given the AA810 is pretty early as PR Spitfire, I suggest they wing was still a modified fighter wing, but I'm not that up on the history of the bowser wing. . It also does not say which panel it was, as there was provision for a wing camera, or what the basic wing was. The chap in the video may well know, so see if you can contact them, and inquire further. You could ask what colour the inside of the fus

Canada. Every Canadian Mk.XII (or Canadian IIb) I have seen has the rounded side radiator. It maybe just the CCF just made a jig based on the Mk.I which has the same curved corners. I suspect it's one of those things that made no difference to function, in they way that the CM/1 and ES/9 Rotol spinners are seen fitted throughout the war too all Merlin XX Hurricane variants, and so has not been commented on. The only people it is of concern to is detail and accuracy interested modellers...... I sent @airjiml2 a message, as he has studied

87 and 100 are octane ratings, C3 and B4 are for synthetic fuels, made from coal I think. I suspect that planes with the synthetic rating could use normal fuel, but perhaps not the other way round. and, a bit more searching https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/18841-luftwaffe-fuel-triangles/ "Kleinementor" - Fuel Markings and their meanings Fuels 87 and 100 are the octane grades of petrol from natural crude oil. B4 and C3 are the (synthetic) equivalents distilled from (brown, low grade, lignite to sub-bituminous) coal oil. T