Troy Smith

You have one mounted below your eyes and above your mouth! You can tell a lot simply by the smell. If it smells like emulsion, it's a latex water solvent, Vallejo, Lifecolor, Humbrol, Revell Aqua. a fruity alcohol is the alcohol solvent, eg standard Tamiya or Gunze Aqueous, these can be thinned with water, alcohol and lacquer thinner, and lacquer solvent, which have a very strong volatile smell. Tamiya lacquer, Gunze Mr.Color (the other gunze) Or just ask here

note video in link also "Why I said depends on the paint, I use acrylic, both water based latex type (eg Vallejo Model color) or alcohol solvent, specifically Tamiya. They are not intermixable, Tamiya makes a very good primer coat for vallejo though. Acrylic give brushes a hard time, they tend to dry in the brush, and require using brush soap to clean them up periodically. " I use pretty cheap small flat brushes, as long as they don't shed bristles and gives a smooth finish that is good enough. HTH

small FLAT brushes are what you need for doing surfaces. Acrylics also behave differently to enamels. I'm about to go out, I have posted more detail on this before though. |I'll link in later

Having just got some bagged armour kits courtesy of @G-IAIN been doing some searching. One is the Esci Bishop, 8044, which has no paint guide. and looking for images found this which looks a very un British scheme this look to be another shot Tunisia? ah, here http://panzerserra.blogspot.com/2021/07/bishop-ordnance-qf-25-pdr-on-carrier.html says 1st Army - 1st Parachute Btn. at Le Krib 6 March 1943 - Tunisia SCC2 with Light Mud? Or actual mud? This one is listed as Sicily, SCC2? evidently same unit the kit has decals for the above scheme. the decals have this WD number, I have seen a few of this Light Stone? @Mike Starmer @Kingsman Thanks in advance

As in what is usually called resin? It's not plastic, so you need superglue of some kind, or possibly a 2 part epoxy which gives more time to position. You can also get UV cure resin glue, has a little UV torch to make the resin cure. You may wish to say what kits, just to be clear as to what the bits are. There are various types of superglue, I tend to use the generic 3g tubes, Be aware that polyurethane dust is unpleasant, wet sand or wear a dust mask. AFAIK no solvent plastic cement works on resin. HTH

I shamelessly raid the Flickr account of @Etiennedup He's very careful about using only genuine images, and collates them on his Flickr. Etienne is also a modeller, so knows the value of the images. The lower two are likely American in origin, with the Hurricanes used in 2nd line duties is Sicily/Italy, there look to be USAAF Mustangs in the background of LB680. It maybe from India LB680 IIc M XX 5MU 17-6-43 52MU 15-7-43 'Fort Rupert' 25-7-43 Casablanca NWA SEAAC 7IAF 'MW-J' Missing 20-5-45 bboc MAAF SOC 30-8-45 but the history seems confused, as final place is MAAF = Mediterranean Allied Air Forces also NWA = North West Africa Records in the ME and FE are noted for being incomplete and wrong/lost though. The other depends on how you read the repainted serial, as KW98*, as there are only KW980, 981 and 982. or KW96* http://www.airhistory.org.uk/Hurricane/p053.html More digging needed! (and not right now)

More likely a replacement fin/rudder in fresh Dark Earth. The tone is like the fresh paint on the back 3 Hurricanes this shows the fin removed I don't have an answer, it looks like fresh Dark Earth, this has been discussed before on here, at least twice! I suggested a repaint after an engine fire or major oil leak, needing a repaint, but that is just a guess. this famous image helpfully has faded Dark Earth/Middle Stone, and some patches of fresh paint for an idea of contrast RCAF Spitfire V, 1943. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr And desert scheme Hurricanes in period colour note on here the variation in Dark Earth, with a fresh patch behind the U, and how shiny the cowling is, not this is taxying out for take off and already has quite an exhaust deposit Close up of Hurricane Mk II d . by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr taken moments before or later , the above I think is a crop. I don't know what going on the the fuselage panel on S, looks to be Dark Green and Middlestone? Desert Hurricane's by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr the other shot Hurricane Mk II d . by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr and for reference, two more desert scheme in colour Hurricane 1944. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr Hurricane IIc by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr AFAIK Upward flare discharger https://www.key.aero/article/everything-you-need-know-about-hawker-sea-hurricane 40 Upward-firing recognition flare launcher cutaway is unreadable, I'd need to pull the manual out but I now need to eat

not sliver/gunmetal, or covered in rust.... https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235043141-favorite-track-technique/#elControls_3128688_menu "Most tracks of WW2 vintage were a high-manganese steel for wear resistance and long life. This was most definitely NOT silver, nor graphite. It was a goldy-brown colour, sort of like a light bronze. Even late-war German tracks still appear to have had a decent manganese content. They would wear out in no time without it, and it was being sourced from Sweden through Denmark until very late." Various discussions on this, was quite a surprise to me when it came up, as steel colour going rusty are what you see on so many models... HTH

What book? Ah, a check shows https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235137723-dambuster-lancaster-aj-s/#comment-4931960 @Mark Postlethwaite is a member here. This may https://wingleader.co.uk/books/avro-lancaster-part-3/ have some more info? The folk at Wingleader are very good and do research carefully. Note, while the illustration in the book look like photos, I think they are digital art works, like the cover this is a drawing again, not a photo so if they are drawings, this is not relevant. They were not taken in a preserved example. AFAIK the only wartime spec Lancaster interior is the nose of F-Freddie https://www.ipmsstockholm.se/home/avro-lancaster-in-detail/ note the green leathercloth @Finn may have some suggestions? HTH

I appreciate English is not your first language, but I am not total sure what you are asking. Be aware that the Valiant WIngs books are not very carefully researched, the only one I have is the Hurricane book and it's full of mistakes, omissions and occasional fantasy. The Typhoon initially did not have reinforcing plates just in front of the tail, to the fuselage/tail join, the ones added are known as 'fish plates' clearly seen here These are standard from quite early in Typhoon production, and are also seen on aircraft fitted with Tempest tailplanes. The Tempest tailplanes over lap them Just visible here The person who knows all the answers is @Chris Thomas a search bring up I hope this answers your question.

Consolidated Mess apparently does have this information. Or some of it. @Graham Boak whose just refound his copy maybe able to confirm? True of many types.

@Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies @dickrd @foeth ?

I belive the PM is OK, but crude. Many years ago I compared the Frog kit some plans in Scale Models, (1982 Scale Models special) IIRC the outer wings were a bit small or short. It was a long time ago though. This maybe of use https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235050552-any-ideas-for-a-seafury-to-fury-conversion/ and this is VP207 in the demonstrator scheme IIRC this had a blue cheat line, and the Centaurus one was in red. Again, has been discussed on here. This also well shows the raised cockpit in the Fury. HTH

Yes, but the Fury fuselage was entirely new as well.

These are Fury's not Tempest's. Note the 2nd Sabre Fury and early Centaurus one had demonstrator colours, overall alu dope with coloured fuselage cheat lines. I'll dig out the discussion on this if you like?