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About nheather

  • Birthday 10/10/1963

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    Horsham, West Sussex

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  1. I bought one, it arrived today, fits nicely and looks lovely. I don't regret the purchase one bit but unless I'm missing something, one thing perplexes me. You can't have preset and cut-away at the same time - is that correct? Seems obvious now I think about it, but if you have used the preset to limit the trigger travel then the cut away can't be used to flush the airbrush because it can only be pulled back as far as the preset. So to use the cut-away you have to retract the preset completely out - is that correct? BTW - I notice that Iwata are doing a special edition of the Eclipse - has side feed, the cut-away preset handle and the crown cap - Iwata Takumi Eclipse - quite expensive though. https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?cPath=400_403_1_9_47&products_id=24821 Cheers, Nigel
  2. I’d be really pleased if my attempts turned out that good. Cheers, Nigel
  3. Big thank you, didn’t know that existed, is it a recent introduction. Definitely getting one for Christmas. Cheers, Nigel
  4. Out of interest which is more useful on the CS - the cut-out to pull back the needle for flushing or the preset - on the CS you can have either (at a cost) but you can’t have both. There was (is) the triple action handle but most of what I read seemed to find fault with it in one way or another. Cheers, Nigel
  5. oh, it's a company, didn't know that, thought it was referring to a second print run. Cheers, Nigel
  6. What do you mean by Round 2 release - not a term I have heard before. Cheers, Nigel
  7. Some details of the Revell version https://www.keymodelworld.com/article/new-172-mandalorian-razor-crest-revell?utm_campaign=KMW - Scale newsletter&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=170722820&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-9QssF2WaT21ELUAvIoLAMv4VRbecfV4RzIysRYnt2ngNj5jHMaZQBfq5uTxeOKL7vBDKXWP8ehNx4fibDvwNdk8zi5pHnvoK-sqMc2aLXMLekctJ0&utm_content=170726496&utm_source=hs_email Cheers, Nigel
  8. Looks like he has just watched the spin-off series ‘Picard’ and it has suddenly dawned on him what he has done. Cheers, Nigel
  9. That does sound good. Must admit that I was aware of plant-based resins but had dismissed them as I assumed that they would be a compromise - cleaner but not as good. Have you tried both standard and plant-based resins - if so do you find them the same - same precision/accuracy, same strength etc. Many thanks, Nigel
  10. Many thanks for this, it goes some way to confirm my thoughts. New 4k, 8k and DLP printers are very enticing but they are more expensive to buy unless you are lucky enough to catch an early bird. And I wonder about maintenance - I’ve read that inevitably LCD screens have to be replaced from time to time, and would a 4k or 8k screen be more expensive than a 2k screen. What got me thinking about this is the AnyCubic Ultra DLP which on paper has a poor resolution, just 80u but the prints that are being showcased look stunning - but bear in mind that the only videos and reviews to date are coming from AnyCubic and their supporters. Where I do think higher resolutions are put to best use is for bigger build plates - in fact we saw the reverse in the AnyCubic ultra, which with a 720P array has to reduce the build plate to little more than a credit card just to achieve a 80u XY resolution. I don’t need a big build plate for my needs but even so the Ultra is probably too small. With the Phrozen you need to add delivery, taxes and admin charges so they are more expensive than they first appear. So I am still looking at the Mars 3 (still kicking myself that I missed the pre-order) but the reason I started this is that I wonder whether I would be better off with a Mars 2 plus a wash and cure for the same price. Cheers, Nigel
  11. Think I’m going to hold off. I missed the Mars 3 pre-order. I tried for the AnyCubic ultra but fell victim to the kickstarter crash. Then their is the Phrozen 8k, interesting, looks like a good price but then you need to add postage, VAT and admin fees. I’d like to see what the DLP technology is like - see some real world reviews. I’m not convinced that xy resolution matters, sure in some cases, but generally not. We shall see because the AnyCubic Ultra is 80u which on paper makes it a low resolution printer but the technology is meant to offset that. The real issue with the ultra is the tiny build plate. With the technology advancing fast with a new ‘leap’ every year I’m not convinced that paying premium for the latest is the best way to go. Cheers, Nigel
  12. I’m not really confusing them, I understand the difference, but I appreciate where you are coming from. But my question remains, at mini size, XY resolution is typically ranges from 80u, 50u, 35u and 22u depending on the pixel resolution of the LCD (for the same size build plate). I understand that the whole layer is printed at once do takes the same time regardless of the number of pixels printed. I agree that the level height is independent but I was saying is that if you do want to reduce it to match the XY size (so you are printing cubes not oblongs) then the print will take longer. The point of my question is 1k, 2k, 4k, 8k (80u, 50u, 35u, 22u), realistically, at what point does the human eye stop being able to tell the difference. If you printed at the same layer height can the human eye discern the difference between the prints from 2k and 4k budget printers. To me it makes sense to bring out higher resolution screens to accommodate bigger build plates, but not so convinced with this trend to squeeze more and more pixels into similar sized mini plates, but interested to hear what others think. Cheers, Nigel
  13. First we had the big breakthrough of 2k mono screens, then there were 4k and now we are looking at 8k. I understand that build plate size is a factor - if you want a bigger plate then you need more pixels to achieve the same resolution. What I’m interested in is the trade off between resolution, print speed and cost. So in the Mini size sector we are looking at resolutions of For 2k - 50u For 4k - 35u For 8k - 22u The lower the number the better it sounds but - more layers so longer print time and I’m guessing the cost of replacement screens will be higher (8k > 4k > 2k). What I would like to know is what difference can you see with the eye - not the magnifying glass, not a microscope. I recently read a review of the Mars 3 (4k) and that concluded that it was hard to see a difference between 50u and 35u so given the 35u prints took significantly longer the recommendation was to print at 50u. My primary interest would be printing wargaming figures (AFVs mostly) in scales ranging between 10mm and 28mm. Just wondering whether to go for the new 4k and 8k models or whether a cheap 2k would be more than good enough. Cheers, Nigel
  14. From Mike Starmer’s MAFVA site. https://www.mafva.org/british-vehicle-camouflage-1939-45/?v=79cba1185463 So, it seems, the answer will depend on the period you are trying to depict. Sounds like SCC 13 or SCC 16 from 1943 onwards, both sound a little darker than olive drab. Cheers, Nigel
  15. Thanks for confirming that, this was my suspicion too. I’ve registered interest as the $349 price as the super early bird sounds very attractive. But unlike Elegoo and AnyCubic I guess I need to factor in Shipping VAT Courier Admin Fee which will add another $100 or so. And I suspect getting that Super Early Bird price is unlikely any way. Cheers, Nigel
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