Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

nheather

Gold Member
  • Content Count

    625
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

849 Excellent

About nheather

  • Rank
    Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 10/10/1963

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Horsham, West Sussex

Recent Profile Visitors

2,107 profile views
  1. @StuartH and @Yorkshire man thanks for the photos, very informative. I had done a quick google myself and found a photo of bicycle troops at The Somme and they were dressed the same as the British troops around them (except for the turbans). Maybe it is like any war, you start out with good intentions but as it drags on you use whatever is available. Cheers, Nigel
  2. Asking out of curiosity. Do those figures depict the uniforms and equipment of Indian troops in the trenches in France or are they more applicable to warmer climates like Turkey and the Middle East. In my mind I imagine Indian troops in France wearing standard UK/Commonwealth khaki uniforms but with turbans. That is purely my speculation I have no real knowledge of this aspect. But if my speculation is correct could you just use multi-pose British infantry and just change the heads. Cheers, Nigel
  3. nheather

    German Gas Masks

    Not really AFV but one thing that has always puzzled me is why did German soldiers carry gas masks throughout the whole of WWII. I understand at the beginning because the world was expecting a repeat of the tactics of WWI, but it soon became clear that the sides weren’t going to use chemical weapons. So why did the Germans continue to lug around canisters with gas masks. Cheers, Nigel
  4. It was only my speculation to be honest, I don’t really see why you would bother with an undercoat, but I could well be wrong. The other thing you might see is that when there is a tank’s colour is changed - do they take everything back to bare metal, prime and paint or would they have just have cleaned and painted over the top. Cheers, Nigel
  5. I don’t think they would have used a separate undercoat, the red oxide would have served as both primer and undercoat, then coats of SCC15 on top of that. Cheers, Nigel
  6. They were also repaired/patched a lot. I have some nice 28mm white metal figures for a skirmish game. In the game each figure is a recognisable character they have put a lot of effort in to make them different. Uniforms with patches, one infantryman that has a piglet stuffed in his forage bag, unusual poses. Must get round to painting them. Cheers, Nigel
  7. Totally agree. You hear so many people, even on the media say “can’t wait until 2020 is over” and I’m thinking “what do you think is going to happen on 1st Jan 2021, do you imagine some big switch will be thrown and virus will be gone”. I work for a very large company, with lots of sub-divisions each of which is a big company in its own right. In my division we have been told we are working from home for the forceable future, at least to the end of the year but expect longer. But one division has gone further and sent out letters saying “if you are absolutely needed on site then you already are, otherwise expect to be working from home until an effective vaccine is available and has been widely distributed, based on current progress and advice the estimated return to work date is December 2021”. Cheers, Nigel
  8. Can’t say about that one, mine is an older simpler design and maybe a little blunt now as I have had for many years. I think if I was faced with making a 5mm I’d still be reaching out for my set of drills. One thing with the propeller reamer is that they usually have larger holes in mind - yes they will do 5mm but will go up to 12mm or more so maybe a little cumbersome for plastic model making. Cheers, Nigel
  9. Thinking out of the box a little here. One of my other hobbies is radio controlled model aircraft. The propellers have to be a perfect fit on the engine/motor shaft so usually come slightly under-sized and you then use a propeller reamer to open it up until the fit is perfect. They are very sharp, and you can get ones that don’t have steps, like this one https://www.rcworld.co.uk/acatalog/Knife-Edge-Reamer-With-Carbon-Handle--5535508.html#SID=154 You can get cheaper versions, mine didn’t cost as much. Cheers, Nigel
  10. I know what you mean but does that mean that the museum restoration that we can see in the first post is wrong? They certainly aren’t staggered in those photos. Cheers, Nigel
  11. nheather

    Flower Class

    Revell already do a Royal Navy version, they do two kits in 1:144, HMCS Snowberry and HMS Buttercup. You might have to resort to eBay though as everywhere seems to be out of stock of HMS Buttercup. Cheers, Nigel
  12. I doubt the cost of the FDM material is the issue - you could probably print everything you wanted with a kilo of filament costing £15. The issue is more likely time - I don’t know much about commercial printers, but I know if I printed that on my Ender 3 it would probably take 2 to 4 hours. The thing with FDM, unlike resin is if you out two of them on the bed then the print will take twice as long - maybe even longer because there is the additional travel time between the two prints. Also when I print, I tend to stay with it at the start to make sure it is going okay and then I will check in from time to time ti make sure it hasn’t gone wrong - so it does need some supervision but not a lot. Now I assume commercial machines are faster and more reliable but either way I see the main cost is that you are tying up the machine for many hours - you are effectively hiring it? Cheers, Nigel
  13. Welcome to the forums @alloydog I’m a little older with similar childhood memories, I’m a war gamer too, what rules do you use? Cheers, Nigel
  14. What’s make you think that. I haven’t ordered but I have gone all the way to where you have to enter payment details and it hasn’t objected. I also have an eMail from AnyCubic confirming that pre-orders to the UK will be sent from the EU. Cheers, Nigel
  15. Know exactly what you mean. I managed to blow the main board in my Ender 3. I was about to buy a replacement Creality board but then spitted the third party boards by BTT which have loads of nice features for the same price. The first reviews I read were of the v1.0 board that had just been released and they were fantastic, at the time these reviews were about 8 months old. I then found some later reviews about the v1.2 board (no mention ever of the v1.1, maybe the company actually did some testing themselves). The v1.2 seemed to largely fix problems found in the v1.0 board. I bought one of these and then within a week they announced the v2.0 board - I read the improvements and the majority of them were to fix design faults related to overheating and component failure. I was quite outraged by this as it became obvious that those buying early were being used to test the product and when they found faults BTT fixed them with a new board leaving all those that had done the hard work with old buggy boards - if they want the faults fixed they can buy a new board. Fortunately I bought from Amazon so I made up a fault returned it for refund and bought a v2.0 board. That was three versions in less than a year. Cheers, Nigel
×
×
  • Create New...