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nheather

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About nheather

  • Birthday 10/10/1963

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    Horsham, West Sussex

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  1. I think 15mm is a good compromise between detail and price. In my opinion 10mm is a little too small when it comes to modern infantry. Good for ancients to napoleonic though where you want to show big blocks of infantry. If the game is primarily mechanised, particularly, cold war and later, then 10mm works well as you can put down a lot more vehicles for an acceptable price and the ground scale looks good too. 20mm is an odd scale, falling out of favour, it is a little small for skirmish (platoon level) which is best done in 25mm or 28mm in my opinion, but it is maybe too big and expensive for battalion and regiment sized games. Maybe get away with company level but personally I'd still lean towards 15mm for that. A warning about wargaming 15mm scales - companies play a little fast and loose with some making figures that are truly 15mm and others making figures that are closer to 18mm. Fine if you stick to the same brand but can look odd if you mix brands. Another wargaming feature is 'heroic pose' - this is where the sculpts are chunkier than reality - this is done for two reasons, one to make the figures stand out but mostly to make them more robust so that they don't break when playing. I have a few armies: 20mm, German and French, 1940, platoon level skirmish 28mm, German and Russian, 1941/2, platoon level skirmish 15mm, British and German, 1944, company level I have a boardgame set in a fictional 'what-if' Rhineland cold war which I quite fancy recreating in 10mm. The first thing (which I find a lot more difficult than it sounds) is to decide what sort of engagement and abstraction you want. Platoon level or company level which can be done with 1:1 figure representation or battalion, regiment or division which need some degree of abstraction. How long you want the game to last and how many will playing are also factors to consider. Another factor is which aspect interests you the modelling, painting, history research, gaming. If you enjoyingbthe modelling and painting then 25mm and 28mm are best. If you want to get an army finished and on the table quickly then 10mm and 15mm are the best. 20mm gives you a bit of both, modelling and painting can be quite rewarding but is still quick enough to get to the table quickly.
  2. 20mm can be surprisingly expensive - a big decision is whether to go plastic or metal? Plastic is significantly cheaper, often crisper and more detailed, but metal has heft and is more robust - metal is nicer to game with. But a single tank in 20mm is going to set you back at least £10, likewise a squad (or section if you are British) would be around £10. Plastic would be a lot cheaper. An then there is scenery - more eye-watering that the figures and vehicles in my opinion. Sources of 20mm WW2 figures and vehicles Metal - https://shqltd.com Metal - https://earlywarminiatures.com Plastic - https://www.theplasticsoldiercompany.co.uk There are others but they are good places to start. If you go 15mm prices almost halve and 10mm is cheaper still. Then it comes to the scale of the game and how much abstraction you are happy with - does a model tank represent a tank, or a tank squadron. Then there is ground scale - WWII and especially post-war tank engagements take place over large distances - if you want the model and ground scale to be similar you end up needing a huge playing table at 20mm.
  3. There is Rapid Fire too. But you specifically mentioned later wars so you could check out Pendraken’s Cold War Commander. https://www.pendraken.co.uk/ncwc-2-rules-ncold-war-commander-2-rulebook-6949-p.asp Also it depends on what sort of size of battles you want to put on but if you are talking a lot of units, especially vehicles, it can get quite expensive and large in 20mm. Dropping down to 15mm or even 10mm can lower the price significantly. Cheers, Nigel
  4. Thanks, missed that - that does make a repair a more sensible option. Cheers, Nigel
  5. Compared with £200 to get his broken one repaired.
  6. Trouble is that he bought it in New Zealand, so I don't think you us UK consumer laws. Also, even if you could get Nikon to consider a warranty repair, they might insist that you return it to the Australasia repair centre at your cost. For what it's worth, sounds like the OP has committed to a repair - not what I would have done for the sake of £80 but he is free to do as he wants. Cheers, Nigel
  7. Yes, it's 28mm scale - designed for wargaming. This is why the detail is also limited and chunky in places - the model is designed to be handled and moved around the wargaming table - any fine Tamiya or Dragon like detail wouldn't last long. Cheers, Nigel
  8. It looks a bit thick on 1:72 to be honest. I’ve found ammo stuff which is black and 0.01mm but you only get 2m for about £6. There is also infini stuff which is also black and about 0.0055mm, more expensive at around £15 but you get 45m. Will probably try one of those. Cheers, Nigel
  9. The stuff you linked in John Lewis is transparent, and that is the only colour that they sell. In your models the rigging appears black - is that because you used a black variant, or you painted it black, or it is just an optical illusion (it is transparent but looks black). Cheers, Nigel
  10. Is the Ammo rigging any good - if so would the 0.01mm be the appropriate size?
  11. Normally a 1:35 armour modeller I’ve decided to branch out into aircraft - and I’ve decided to focus on early WWII British Aircraft - including late pre-war. So I’d like to include some biplanes, gladiator, walrus, swordfish etc. I’ve never down rigging so after some advice about what product would make the job easier for a newbie. Many thanks, for any advices and ideas Nigel
  12. Wasn’t that the joke about the films, I’m pretty sure that there were memes about it. It was all because the actors were ageing faster than the characters. Can’t remember specifically which two films, but Hermione finished the school year in July for summer holidays flat chested at the end of one film and returned to school the following September for the next year at the start of the next film with boobs.
  13. Many thanks, this explains the location of the panel line - and that it isn’t really a panel line but the gap between the two parts of the door - and therefor it is correct that it doesn’t line up with the panel line on the fuselage. Interestingly, a lot of the profile pictures even those that come with after market decals show the line on the door matching the panel line on the fuselage - in this case it seems that Airfix are correct and the profile artists wrong. Cheers, Nigel
  14. Building an Airfix Beaufort and I have a question about the hatch on the port side, the one you can leave off to show off a Lewis gun. I haven’t decided whether I want to fit it or not yet but I have noticed that the panel line doesn’t look to be in the correct place. It would be a simple matter to fill the existing line and scribe a new one but before I do that I want to be sure that this is a kit error and it’s not meant to be like this. Also, anyone know how common it was to have the hatch removed. Cheers, Nigel
  15. Just had a closer look at the decal and it seems to be clear with dials - rather than others that I have seen, which as you say are a black area the same shape as the IP with various dials on it. This does suggest that the deal is intended to nestle down onto the plastic detail.
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