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nheather

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About nheather

  • Birthday 10/10/1963

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    Horsham, West Sussex

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  1. Beginning to regret my choice to go with 1:72. A few years back when I decided to get back into aircraft I decided on a theme for my collection, British WII, but agonised for some time over 1:72 or 1:48. In the end I decided on 1:72 because there was more choice and certainly more options for twins and the rarer stuff. Roll on today and we have an Anson, Battle, Lysander, Beaufort and Hampden all in 1:48. Beginning to wish I’d gone 1:48.
  2. Did the RAF Vultee Vengeances operating in Burma carrier normal roundels or SEAC roundels. Looking at the Dora Wings I/IA kit and it provides normal roundels for the RAF versions and SEAC for the Indian Air Force. But I thought the SEAC schemes were introduced to get rid of the red circles which could be mistaken for 'rising suns'.
  3. Something interesting in 1:72 for British WWII - not holding my breath though as the modelling world seems to be moving towards 1:48. Cheers, Nigel
  4. Thanks, that really useful to know.
  5. This is what I ended up with - the track edges need a bit of trimming but the joint is good Also, this is what the drive sprockets should look like Cheers, Nigel
  6. I made the first two like this at first then realised the mistake when found that they wouldn’t mesh with the track. The two cog parts need to be fitted the other way round so that the two cog wheels are closest to each other.
  7. But it’s that 1970s rubber that doesn’t take glue - as far as I’m aware? Anyway, managed to tape the blighters down, massacred them with a hot screwdriver to get them to hold together enough to get a couple of mini staples in each.
  8. Okay, I knew that this classic kit and that the tracks would need heat riveting, but I wasn’t expecting them to be as challenging as they are. My problem is that the rivets are not very long, barely any longer that the thickness of the material they have to pass through leaving hardly protruding rubber to be melted down. Worse is that because they are so short they do not hold the join in place to be welded - that is even if I can get them to push through the holes at all, which I haven’t achieved yet. The good news is that the join will be hidden so I can resort to staples. The challenge is holding the tracks together whilst I staple - is there any household adhesive that I’m likely to have in the house that would hold the tracks together long enough to staple - or any other suggestions?
  9. They have just arrived at Jadlam, £24.95 delivered.
  10. Thanks, I didn't realise that. So there are no other 1:72 Battles on the horizon that I need to be concerned with - if I want a Battle, I should grab one of these. Is that correct?
  11. I'm pretty new to this thread. Skimming through and reading the 'in box' review I see numerous references to Special Hobby. Where do they fit in, are they doing their own Battle, or will they box this one, or something else?
  12. Thanks for all the replies and advice so far. So far my research tells me that the most useful three colours are black, brown and grey. Black is easy but when it comes to brown and grey there are options Brown comes in Brown, Dark Brown and Deep Brown (it also comes in Orange Brown and Pink Brown but I have discounted those) Grey comes in Light Grey, Grey and Dark Grey So when it comes to brown and grey which would you recommend? Cheers, Nigel
  13. The HMS Victory at Portsmouth historic dockyard used to be painted quite yellow, and a lot of model kits have used this as reference. But a few years ago, restorers working on real ship discovered some original patches of paint and found that it was more of a caramel or honey brown than yellow. The ship has since undergone restoration using the correct colour. It is not unknown that incorrectly painted museum exhibits get incorporated into models - the caunter scheme on the Bovington Matilda being a classic example - this exhibit has finally been repainted in more accurate colours.
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