Jump to content

As a result of the close-down of the UK by the British Government last night, we have made all the Buy/Sell areas read-only until we open back up again, so please have a look at the announcement linked here.

This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


Gold Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

736 Excellent

About nheather

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 10/10/1963

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Horsham, West Sussex

Recent Profile Visitors

1,851 profile views
  1. It all looks fantastic, but I'll single out one tiny part, that spade looks amazing. It is not often that tools look convincing on models but these certainly do. Cheers, Nigel
  2. Mostly my issues are painting whites, yellows, reds, blues of uniforms. Cheers, Nigel
  3. Yes, sort of. I understand how it can be made easier. It just that when I watch videos, they seem to get much better coverage than I do even if I use the same products as in the video. Cheers, Nigel
  4. Yes, I realise I am being a bit vague. It comes from watching youtube videos, usually Warhammer, which I have a minor interest in, but it also applies to historic wargaming figures before the 20th century. In such videos the painter will have a figure primed in black. They will advise to thin paints rather than to paint straight from the bottle to get good flow and a smooth finish. They will then say that colours like white, yellow and red are particularly difficult and it is best to use two or more thin coats than trying to cover in one coat. All makes perfect sense so far. They then brush on the first coat of yellow on top of black primer. Sure it needs another coat but with a single swipe of the brush using thinned paint he has a pretty strong finish. Sure it isn’t perfectly covered, but they add a second coat and it looks perfect to me. They say that you might want to add a third coat but in this case two is good enough. This is where I get confused. I try the same thing, same paint expected similar results. My first coat looks like black that has been faintly smudged with yellow. The second coat not much better and so on. I may have to apply between six and ten coats to get the opacity that they achieved with two. And by then, because of the number of coats my finish is looking far from smooth. My paint is fully mixed, I’ve not thinned it any more than they did. I can’t see the difference. Cheers, Nigel
  5. What do you use to store dropper bottles (like Vallejo). I have two storage racks that can hold 52 bottles each. But they are full now, and I have more bottles - I could buy another but they already take up lot of space so I wonder if there is something that takes up less space. I’m considering just keeping them away in boxes and just using one rack to hold the paints needed for the current projects. Cheers, Nigel
  6. Brush painting, not airbrush. Typically, I do a lot of historical wargaming figures, which include all eras, so plenty of bright light colours. I’m told that many light coats is better than fewer heavy coats so I try to follow that. I watch videos and see the presenters lay down a couple of coats that cover really well. But when I try it, even using the exact paint in the example, I find that I am laying coat after coat without appearing to get anywhere. I’m not over thinning, this is even straight from the bottle. Sometimes I feel like I am painting a raspberry flavoured tea hoping to end up with a vibrant red. Cheers, Nigel
  7. Whenever I have tried it, whether with brush, no matter how many thin coats I lay down it never looks fully covered, and rather than looking like white painted metal it looks like it is made out of chalk. I was wondering whether there is some trick I am missing, using extremely light grey, or semi-gloss.. Cheers, Nigel
  8. Any tips on painting white. I’m thinking things like undercarriage legs, missiles , tank interiors, napoleonic uniforms. When I try to hand paint or airbrush matt white it always looks to stark and too chalky. Next task is the interior of a Centaur tank - to be honest mot much will be visible so this isn’t too much of a challenge but appreciate to hear how you ho about painting such things. Cheers, Nigel
  9. I started with one of those generic ones you see on eBay - had a moisture trap, regulator and a tank and to be honest it worked fine. You can find them for around the £70 mark. Then a few years back, wondering what to treat myself with (birthday or Christmas) and I splashed out on a Sparmax 620. It is essentially the same as what I was replacing, diaphragm pump, tank, regulator and moisture trap so I did wonder whether I would regret my purchase as a waste of money but I didn’t for one second - the engineering, the smoothness and the quality are leagues ahead. I also have the reassurance that if anything goes wrong with it I will be able to get spares or get it repaired. I have no qualms in recommending Sparmax compressors. You would be looking at around £200 for the Sparmax that I have. BTW - worst kept trade secret - Sparmax make the compressors for Iwata - so you can buy a Sparmax or you can pay a lot more for a Sparmax with an Iwata badge. Cheers, Nigel
  10. nheather

    Possible HMRC scam!

    I wish. Not saying I don’t earn a decent salary but it is not even remotely close to pop star or fat cat territory. The sad thing is that I probably pay more taxes than those pop stars and fat cats. Cheers, Nigel
  11. nheather

    Possible HMRC scam!

    Another HMRC scam to look out for. I've just had a look at my recent payslips and have discovered that some scammer calling themselves HMRC has been syphoning off 40% of my pay. Cheers, Nigel
  12. It will be to do with the rings and notches. These look like the old style parts - with the new ones it is easy to see. What I can see is Needles - one has a notch the other doesn't Nozzles - one has a ringed groove the other doesn't Cap - one has one ring the other has none I'm sure the guy from LittleCars/ModellingTools will be able to match them together. This might help https://www.harder-airbrush.eu/files/downloads/manuals/marks_nozzle_sets.pdf Reading this I would say Needle - No Mark = 0.2mm, One Mark = 0.4mm Nozzle - No Ring = 0.2mm, One Ring = 0.4mm Cap - No Ring = 0.2mm, One Ring = 0.4mm (in the photo, it looks like one ring and two rings but I think in each case one is the step in the machining not an ID ring. Cheers, Nigel
  13. No I didn’t because I ‘m still unsure whether a Cut 4 is fine enough. I’d feel more comfortable seeing some in the flesh first. Cheers, Nigel
  14. Just started watching it, only minutes in, Battle of France. Interesting and some nice footage, bit disappointed that the makers have not been so good at matching up the footage with the actual story. For example, in telling how the RTR had to retreat leaving a trail of their destroyed tanks, showed four examples, all French, an FT-17, a tankette, something like an H35 and a Char B1. And then to illustrate the superior German tanks they were facing they show a late war Stug III with long barrelled 75mm. I’ll have to switch my filter on and just enjoy the story. Cheers, Nigel
  15. I’d like to have seen a whole series of this. Cheers, Nigel
  • Create New...