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About nheather

  • Birthday 10/10/1963

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    Horsham, West Sussex

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  1. This place suggests that they have some - never used them before but there ‘about’ has a UK address and telephone number so you could check that they actually have it. https://www.models2u.co.uk/contents/en-uk/p8448_micro-kristal-klear.html?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIi_HEt6m9hAMVsJFQBh3yAQflEAQYASABEgLOsvD_BwE
  2. The scale is better known as 28mm, it is a common wargaming scale.
  3. Rubicon kits have great detail given that they are primarily aimed at table top gaming. I really like them.
  4. That’s put me off too. Actually having it as an add-on somehow makes it worse. At least if there wasn’t an engine at all I might have respected that decision, but that they have an engine but don’t include seems a bit petty.
  5. I don't really want to get into the expense of after-market, nor the hassle of trying to track it down. Would you say that the Valom is bad enough to avoid the kit if I'm not prepared to do much in the way of corrective surgery? Will probably hang on until the Airfix one comes out and in the meantime keep my eyes open for an AZ Models version.
  6. Hi, Fancy doing an HP Hampden an have seen the Valom offerings. But reading up about them suggests that the transparencies are over-sized so don't fit well. I'm aware that AZ Models have taken the Valom model and have improved transparencies but is near impossible to find. Anyone know the exact issue with the Valom model and how big a problem it is - can it be rectified or does it need replacements. I've also read that Valom models can be a little challenging to build as they lack locating pins/holes - how big a problem is this? And, of course, Airfix are releasing their classic model later this year but I hear that although this builds okay, it lacks detail, has overdone rivets, raised panel lines and may also have transparency issues.
  7. Noticed that some of my AZ Model kits have templates printed on the instructions. So they don’t include ready made masks but provide the means to cut your own. Think this is a nice touch, wish more companies did this. Obviously companies like Eduard would not want to do this as they want to sell their masks, but companies like Airfix and Revell who are not in the mask business could provide templates on their instructions - certainly for the modern kits that are designed using CAD where the template shapes should be pretty easy to create from the CAD software..
  8. Thanks for reminding me, I had seen that one before but had forgotten it - mind you, with the likes of Quality Street switching to paper wrappers mind get harder to find supplies of chocolate foil.
  9. When I was a kid in the 1970s I built 1:72 aircraft, I would use my pocket money to buy a kit from the village toy shop on Friday afternoon or Saturday morning and I’d build and paint it over the weekend. Then I would brush paint everything and when it came to canopies I’d hand-paint them off the plane and then stick them on with white PVA glue. Work and family life pushed my childhood hobby to the side and about 30 years later I returned but focussing on 1:35 armour. Recently, I returned to 1:72 aircraft and I decided to focus on WWII (and slightly pre-war) British aircraft and have started a new stash. One aspect that that has me a little perplexed is how to deal with canopies. I use an airbrush these days and I’m aware that it is best practice to fit the transparencies to the model before painting - which means some sort of masking. My question is, how do go about it …. methods I am aware of are attach transparencies, totally mask them off, spray the aircraft, then hand finish the framing buy masking sets create your own masking with pieces of tape create masking with a combination of tape and masking liquid I’m immediately drawn to ready made masking sets but often put off by the price which can sometimes be as much as the kit. On the other hand, making your own masks seems viable for single canopies (fighters) but becomes more daunting for bombers with their glass houses and turrets. Interesting to hear your approaches, especially whether it is a one size fits all or whether you use different approaches for different types.
  10. The problem is that they have released two versions since this one, you can find the two newer versions for around £45, but like you I can’t find this, the oldest version, anywhere but eBay - and the fact that they are asking over £70 would suggest it is pretty hard to get hold of.
  11. Been looking more closely at the Academy Mustang III (P-51B) and have a question about the canopy. The kit comes with both styles of canopy but the RAF option uses the Malcolm hood. To me, the Malcolm hood looks weird in the Academy kit, it looks really pronounced - is it correct or has it been exaggerated?
  12. I get a little confused by the Mustang version numbers - particularly how the USA letter versions relate to the RAF Roman numeral versions, but yes I would prefer the earlier ones before the bubble canopy, the earlier the better. I have seen the Arma Hobby ones and they do look nice but as you say they are quite expensive, plus there are standard and the expert editions - and naturally I am attracted by the expert editions which are even more expensive.
  13. My aircraft niche is British WWII (and pre-war) aircraft in 1:72. Looking for recommendations for an RAF Mustang, an earlier Mark preferred. I just build OOB so not interested in anything where I would need to buy after-market parts or decals. Not too uptight about accuracy but would prefer to avoid highly inaccurate classic moulds. Also looking for sensible prices, not these that look great but cost more than a good 1:48 model.
  14. nheather

    Stealth Stash

    Nice idea but it has a significant flaw ... "When you finish a model ......"
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