chrisrope

Can’t advise on brush painting a car shell as I tend to use rattle can or occasionally the airbrush. I can recommend the Tamiya R34 Skyline GTR as a build friendly car kit. Ok, it has no engine but you can add the bumpers and spoiler before painting the whole shell which avoids dodgy gaps. The chrome parts aren’t overly shiny, really simple to build and has window masks which is an excellent bonus. This is my first Tamiya car kit but probably not my last

I thought that was spaghetti at first when scrolling through This is a great build, way above my skill set but very interesting as a fellow Dukes fan

Nice haul. Can’t say I’ve ever seen a Revell kit sealed like that though

No nothing wrong with the Revell kit, it’s great. They were just few and far between when I was looking

I got the itch again to have a go at another car kit. Playing too much Gran Turismo had me looking at JDM cars and scored a slightly started Tamiya R34 Skyline GT-R. Rear axle started but is glued nicely and cleanly, the painted interior will get a strip bath, other than that it’s unstarted and snaffled for half the price of a new one. Last night I won a Revell 69 Yenko Camaro. With no decent 68/69 Dodge Charger kits knocking about, I broadened my 1/25 Muscle car search and landed the Camaro (probably the 2nd best looking Muscle car after the Charger)

Mine is the Saab 900 SVO Coupe, the slightly better looking prototype for the 9-3 Viggen. No particular reason, I just think it’s pretty cool

I think there is room for another classic Mini kit. The Tamiya is getting on a bit and now hardly obtainable. Sometimes to get the bits you need mean raiding the various different kits, especially the wheels. The Fujimi is a good kit but the wheels are way oversized, 12” designs but look 13-14” on the kit and look really odd. Moulded on arch extensions and curb side only are other little negatives. The Revell probably is the best so far being newest but it’s a bit niche being the 1071cc (or is it the 970cc) Cooper rather than the more popular 998cc Cooper or 1275 Cooper S. Also now pr

I’ve had the pleasure of owning one of those too, it was decent but I never bonded with it. I later had the 2.2 TiD in the old shape 9-3 and I loved it, reliable even when it was broken. I had to drive it from Ayr back to the Peak District with an non functioning EGR valve. Fully loaded, approximately 90bhp, no turbo boost and max 3k rpm in limp mode in the pouring rain, what a trooper The rear arches eventually rusted out A 9-3 Viggen would be a good idea

I’ll give someone else a chance but this would be my second choice. Also not my car but was exactly the same 1988 Saab 900 T16S (not an Aero despite the name sticking) I got mine as my first Saab when I was 24. I was slumming it in a crusty 1275 Metro Gta when my Dad decided to get a new shape NG900 so offered me the T16. When the insurance quote came back CHEAPER than the Metro I reluctantly agreed Been through a few other Saab’s and a deeply depressing Citroen Picasso to where I am now Wouldn’t mind a kit of this either

Incas, not Aztecs My dad had a 84 99GL in pale Metallic blue sitting on a set of turbo Incas, something I’d ideally love to own myself but if not, make a model of it. Sadly think the original is long gone but if anyone sees CEH 804Y, give me a shout. The 2 strokes and V4s would also be a good choice, I’d probably build one but wouldn’t be my first choice EDIT— Found a picture, not of my dads 99 but one pretty much exact Everyone can keep their Ferrari/Lambos whatever super car you wish, my dream car right here Ours also had a Saab 90 front spoi

Saab, any Saab Least niche would be a 900 T16S or 99 turbo ( 2 door please) Decent rally record for the 99 EMS and turbo to be considered surely

I mentioned this in another build of an Airfix Lancaster which is also a tight fit to get the bulkheads, bomb floor in etc. I applied 1mm masking strips to the areas the internals touch the fuselage, primed and painted as usual. When the tape is removed to reveal the bare plastic underneath, everything still fitted to the tight tolerance that Airfix seem to use these days. It all glued together perfectly with very minimal filling and refinishing required on the fuselage seams, most of that was more due to a warped fuselage half rather than the internals creating gaps

Hi Im slowly working through the newish Airfix Lancaster in 1/72. I’m just about to build up the main undercarriage bays and think I’m going to cut the spars to make painting the whole thing easier (add the painted wings at the very end) To those who have done this, where would you recommend cutting to allow this method while still creating strength in the structure? I’d like to hide any evidence of a cut though I doubt anyone including me will go peering in the bays to find any join Cheers Chris

You’re not far from me then. Didn’t see these but I saw the Beluga over Whaley Bridge last week going out from Hawarden. It was already quite high but it was unmistakable. Must also admit that air traffic round here is pretty dull unless something vaguely interesting goes in to Manchester

Is the Shackleton at Manchester Science and Industry museum still considered safe where it is? Do the RAF own the other Avro 707 displayed there