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Lummox

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  1. You may find this chap in there when you come to clear it Andrew
  2. Excellent work Andy. You're a demon with the etch and it's all looking mighty impressive. One thing is confusing me though - was Johnny Five really part of Rodney's fixtures?
  3. Time flies, and it's high time we had an update, so here goes... We'll be concentrating on the 'fast dive tank' housing mentioned previously, adding details that were missing, inaccurate, or lost during clean up. The housing is festooned with various gizmos and appendages whose functions are a mystery (to me anyway). The fixtures and fittings vary from Pig to Pig (I'll attempt to illustrate this as we go), there being no apparent 'standard' applied across all machines. The variations allow a certain amount of leeway to those who wish to scratch replacements, which is great as no one can say that what you've knocked up is wrong We'll start with the housing roof, which has a 'chimney' and what appears to be a stopcock valve thing: We see wide variations on these, e.g. clockwise from the left; a tall stopcock, a stopcock located in front of the 'chimney', a wide 'chimney', and a 'chimney' with an extension of some kind: The kit 'chimney' is a split affair that would be challenging to clean up, the stopcock being completely absent: The 'chimney' was replaced by brass tube wrapped in lead wire to give a corrugated effect, and a stopcock was scratched using odd and sods: Moving to the front of the housing, we see an odd arrangement of discs, tubes, and valves, that wrap around to the starboard face: Strangely in other Pig examples the features are totally missing! The kit make a game attempt at replicating the features, but it's all a bit simplified and flat: Using slices of a shell cartridge from the spares box, some brass tube, wires and other stuff, we eventually get to this: Finally, on the port side we see a big, lovely 'steam punk' lever (note the lever is 'down' in this example): Again there are variations (note the levers in all these examples are 'up'): The kit opts for the lever (broken on the sprue) in a central (neutral?) position: I followed the herd and went with the 'up' position when scratching a replacement. It's turned out a tad big and probably over-scale, but it will do: To round off this update, here's a few shots with the 'fast' dive tank' housing in situ to give some context of what it looks like on the Pig: I think that brings things just about up to date. Cheers, and thanks for looking, Paul.
  4. Jochen waiting for the build to complete:
  5. I think 'angle of dangle' shenanigans definitely comes into it Matt, but, as we shall see, that's only part of the problem. There appear to have been variations in the steering wheel which makes comparisons awkward, but our wheel certainly has issues. It is dragging on a bit isn't it Andrew? I certainly like getting my money's worth out of any kit I buy. The column does look to sit low in the firewall opening, but I don't think that is the issue as will become evident. Perhaps that's the idea behind the tilting windscreen? Cheers Nik. The plan is for the truck to (eventually) be in some kind of refueling scene, so a lit cigarette will be strictly verboten. I do need something to go in the glove compartment though, so a packet or two of cigarettes could well fit the bill. Now what on earth did the average German smoke? Thanks Mr P. Fortunately scratching wingnuts won't be needed as will be seen (which is a bloody good job really!) I agree Ned, the steering wheel does look to be in a really awkward position (though I've never driven anything bigger than a Transit so I'm not exactly an expert ). Not just pictures Mr P, here's a chap driving one of these bad boys bouncing across a field. The high wheel position is evident: It's a bit like like buses this thread - no posts for ages and then two within a week! I'll need a lie down after all this... Firstly, the result of the investigation into the low steering wheel position. I wonder if the eagle eyed amongst you can see what the problem may be in the picture on the left? Yes, that's right, the replacement steering column is quite a bit shorter than the kit equivalent. Ooops, how can this be? I'm sure I measured twice before I cut once! The middle picture may explain what has happened. The column is the correct length but it is too loose in the (rack and pinion?) housing so has slipped through to rest on the chassis. No matter, it was an easy fix, so the steering column is now the correct length: So has this fixed the low steering position problem? Well, kind of, there's definitely been an improvement but replicating the comparisons seen in the previous post the wheel still looks a tad low: The view from the side view looks OK though, so as Matt suggested, maybe some camera trickery is making things look off when attempting comparisons with example pictures - dunno really: I do have some (pretty accurate) plans to compare against, where I've attempted to match up a photo as close as I can. My amateur attempt at an overlay seems to suggest that things are pretty close to the plans (in terms of steering column length, angle, and orientation to other elements within the cab). I think I'm going to take this as a win. Now for the steering wheel. It certainly looks quite chunky when compared to an example of the real thing. I'm undecided whether I should attempt to do anything about this. Replacing the spokes with suitably thin wire would probably improve things no end, but there again Andrew is complaining the build is going on too long so I better not delay things further or he'll tell me off again Finally, those wingnuts on the scissor hinges for the tilting windscreen. I had a further hunt around in the stash and, hello, what are these little babies from a Hotchkiss H39 etch set. I normally try to avoid robbing bit from items in the stash (leads to a 'where on earth did these bits go?' moment when you come to build later) but these are for use with French style tool clasps, whereas I'll be building a Beutepnzer H39 with German clasps. Fair game then, lovely! And here are the 'liberated' wingnuts in place. Much better, I think they will do nicely. As an aside the hinges also pivot so I can chose an optimum tilt position when the time comes: That's thing up to date. Cheers, thanks for looking, and thanks for all the great feedback. Paul.
  6. My, my, doesn't time fly. You know you've been lax when you have to scroll to page 5 to find your build thread to update. Progress has been achingly slow due to a combination of work, life and a mojo dip. But there has been progress, albeit small... I'm striving to get things to a point where final little jobs are completed so that the cab interior can be painted and the cab closed up. Space will be very tight in the cab once closed up, so I want to make sure I've considered everything as it will be tricky to retro-fit things that have been missed. Making a decision on the tilting windscreen mechanism is one area that needs to be finalised before we can proceed. A tilting windscreen didn't seem to be standard fit on the L 4500, but it definitely seemed to be 'a thing': Information on how the tilt mechanism worked is hard to find, but when this was discussed earlier in the thread @Ned suggested slotted bars similar to those in VW camper vans, and @NIK122 proposed a scissor hinge mechanism similar to that on a Sd.Kfz.9 (coincidentally Nik is currently dealing with this in his build, which is a cracking thread and well worth a look): Which mechanism was used in the L 4500? I've no idea, but after some careful consideration I decided to go with the scissor hinge option (purely because I thought it would be easier to manufacture ). So, starting with some etch tool clasps we can trim and shape the 'lever' components to make the scissor links: The wingnuts proved to be more of a problem. The only thing suitable I could find in my etch stash were some 'T' shaped things (part 14 in the image, one of which has had its shaft suitably thinned). As an alternative I also found some styrene wingnuts (spares from some Dragon kit I believe): Putting the pieces together we end up with these. First impressions are that the styrene wingnut version looks way over-scale, but the etch alternative doesn't look too convincing either. Hmmm, I'll have to mull things over: Meanwhile, I thought that it would be prudent to mock-up the steering elements to ensure there will be no nasty surprises when the cab is put together. The kit steering column was replaced with brass tube, the steering wheel also acquiring some tube to allow it to be slotted onto the column from within the cab: Here we have the steering elements without the cab in place: And here with the cab. Looks good, everything appearing to play nice with each other: Or does it? Comparing with photos the steering wheel looks to be a bit low. Not sure if the steering column is too short, or is at the wrong angle, or both. Hmmm, something else to mull over: Finally, I was wondering what could be hanging from the various hooks on the cab back wall to give it a homely feel. Well there's no sun visors in there, and when the sun is low a cap may come in useful: It seems to look at home hanging on its hook: That's it for now, cheers, and thanks for looking, Paul.
  7. Loving your work here Nik, the build, paint-job and diorama are all excellent. I especially like what you have done with the seats - lovely stuff Am I right in assuming that the scissor hinges for the tilting windscreen are from the Royal Model accessory set? The reason I ask is that I'm currently struggling to manufacture something similar. Cheers, Paul.
  8. Cheers Kevin, kind of you to say.. The problem with earlier pictures is annoying but just one of those things. I've recently had to switch image hosting site as Village.Photos who I used previously have not renewed their security certificate (which can cause photos not to show depending on your browser settings). I could re-upload the photos to the new image host and edit the links in all previous posts. But life's just too short...
  9. Cheers David. I never really know how detailed to make the posts so it's good to hear your comments. Paint is a long way off though given the rate I work at! Thanks for the kind comments Bob, but 'serving the community' makes you sound like a politician and we can't have that now can we Following on from the diving planes, the rudder received some similar attention, it being thinned to be less slab like, the hinge replaced with wire, and positioned at a jaunty deflection for a bit of interest: The rudder also has control horns, these being placed on 'wings' attached to the top of the rudder as per these examples: Note that the control wires from the rudder horns cross over each other to pass up the tubes at the opposite side of the Pig. The instructions don't mention the wires crossing, but I think it makes sense which I'll attempt to explain. The control wires for both the rudder and the diving plane pass up tubes that run up the length of the Pig up to the 'driving' position where there is a 'joy stick' type wheel. Pulling the wheel back will cause the Pig to rise, pushing forward to dive, turn left steer to port, turn right steer to starboard. I'm assuming that when turning the wheel to the left the control wire on the starboard side is pulled. This pulling motion on the starboard side needs to be flipped over to the control horn on the port side of the rudder so that the Pig steers to port, hence the crossing of the wires. It's a simple control mechanism, the operation of which may well be obvious to most, but it wasn't immediately obvious to me: So, back to the rudder control horns. The kit provides some PE which is not to bad, but like most etch, suffers from being too 2D. Replacement control horns were therefore fabricated in a similar way to those for the diving planes (with Bob's turnbuckles coming to the fore again), these horns being attached to the etch 'wings' that sit over the rudder: And this is what we end up with. Yeah, the horns are a tad over-scale, but I think they will do. I did have a go at making finer versions, but failed miserably (beyond my soldering skills unfortunately). The control horns are all detachable so they'll be squirreled away somewhere safe away from clumsy fingers. The actual rigging of the control wires will happen much, much later: For a change of pace I thought I'd start to tackle the central superstructure of the Pig which is apparently the 'fast dive tank with it's air reserved located at the base' (no, me neither ). The kit representation has suffered some damage on the sprue, but most of this detail will be replaced anyway: The first job was to open up the solid recesses at the bottom of the structure. Once the recesses were opened it became obvious how think the plastic is in this area, so much scraping/sanding/thinning fun was had to give a more scale appearance: We needed to prevent a 'see through' look when viewing through the freshly opened recesses, so strips of sprue were added to represent bottom of the (presumed) air cylinders. I also added some supports for other structures to be added later (the 'chimney' thing on the roof, and the big lever on the side) : Opening up the recesses now mean that the tubing for the control wires becomes visible when the superstructure is placed on the Pig body: And at lower viewing angles, the 'air cylinders' are visible rather than just an empty void: That just about covers the current state of play. Cheers, and thanks for looking, Paul.
  10. Crikey, it's been well over a month since I last posted. Where on earth does the time go? I haven't been totally idle, one annoyance being having to find an alternative image host as Village.Photos seems to be kaput. I'm back in the groove now though so on with the update... Firstly a hat tip to @Bobs_Buckles for kindly sending some samples of his wares - and very nice they are too. I've seen that several people here use Bob's eyelets for such things as attachment points for funnel bracing wires (if that's the correct term?). I've not come across them before now, but I can see them being useful in my usual AFV realm (supports for cable runs springs to mind). Bob included samples for his different eyelets along with different lengths of brass tubing for use in turnbuckles. We'll see some of these in use later on, but meantime, thanks a bundle Bob, you're a gent! Now for progress on the Pig. Before I could start work on the diving plane and rudder I had to sort out the propeller guard ring (which has to go on early or it won't fit over the control surfaces). The etch ring was separated from the crude cage elements and soldered to form a circle (well nearly a circle ). The ring is a nice snug fit over the scratched fins, but hasn't been permanently attached to allow for some wiggle room as I'm not 100% sure where it should sit just yet: The diving plane was next, taking particular attention to the attachment 'horns' for the control wires. Italeri provide simple etch posts, which are attached to the diving plane: In reality though the 'horns' are more complex, being a post with a pivoted connector for the control wire. A 'horn' sticks up from the diving plane on the port side, and down on the starboard. If the driver(?) wants to dive, the control wire on the starboard side 'horn' will be yanked, so pulling the diving plane down. To rise/surface, the wire on the port side will be yanked so pulling the diving plane up: Firstly, we needed to do some work on the diving plane. The kit splits the plane into two halves which need to be bridged in the middle to achieve the correct width. Brass collars for the control 'horn' poles were added, the hinge line was drilled, and the plane thinned so it wasn't so slab like: The diving plane could then be attached including some wire to represent the hinge. A small deflection was introduced to the plane as is evident in Pig photos: Next, representations of the control 'horns' were knocked up, which is where Bob's Buckles enter the fray (along with various bit of brass rod/tube). This is definitely approaching the limits of my soldering ability, and the limit of my Optivisor (those are mm divisions on a steel rule to the bottom). I really don't know how you maritime guys do what you do with the etch at such a small scale: 'Why the different angles?', you may ask. Well this is to cater for the deflection on the diving plane, the pivoted connectors attempting to keep the control wires parallel to the Pig centreline as the plane moves up and down. Slipping the control 'horns' into the collars on the diving plane we end up with this: I must admit looking at the photographs I'm not too sure about them. To me they look a bit bulky compared to the real thing, though it may be the high magnification emphasising things. Here's a shot to give more context with the rest of the Pig: I'll get my thinking hat on and see if I can do slimline versions for the 'horns' on the rudder. For now, cheers, and thanks for looking, Paul.
  11. All very interesting (well no, it's not interesting at all really), but what has all this to do with the 1/72 Meteor F8? If you guys want to work yourselves up to a frenzy rehashing the same old tired arguments might I suggest you do it elsewhere?
  12. Cheers Matt, makes sense - that's one vote for lashed to tie-downs on the bed. Thanks Jack, appreciate the comments. Cheers John. I'm am planing on having the Maiale and its accessories as the load - it's a flight of fancy, but something a bit different. Many thanks Kristjan, you are too kind. Cheers Mr P. Funny you should say that - when I was adding the framework it reminded me of Edd China doing up a woody in an old episode of Wheeler Dealers. Thanks Jochen. Another vote for lashing to tie-downs, and probably not a bad idea to have additional wooden bracing 'just in case'. I'm still dabbling with the cab interior, work focusing on bits'n'bobs that are visible in this picture. Working from left to right we see: 1) Various hangers, hooks, loops screwed into the framework on the cab rear. I've circled these as they aren't too obvious. 2) Rectangular panel on the cab roof. 3) Driver's sun visor. I'm ignoring this as I think it may be a post-war addition (nothing to support this thinking, so if anyone knows differently please shout ). 4) Internal framework that continues round the windscreen. 5) Wiper motors attached to windscreen framework. 4) Odd lever thing (circled) - more on this later. The framework around the windscreen was made in a similar way to that round the doors. As can be seen the kit representation of the wiper motors is, well, a bit rubbish: Some scraping was necessary to get rid of the kit 'motors' and allow the framework to sit flush round the windscreen, the framework stopping at the dashboard. Replacement motors were created, which look a bit big now they are on, but I'll live with 'em: Now for the rectangular panel on the cab roof. Not sure what this is to be honest, but it looks to correspond to a similar shape on the top of the roof. The shape was copied onto thin stock: I've cheated a bit when adding the panel to the cab roof in that I've placed it too far forward so it very slightly overhangs the join line. The hope is that this will mask to a certain extent the 'pretty much impossible to tidy up' join line when the cab halves are stuck together. Also visible here is my attempt at replicating the hangers and hooks in the cab rear framework, and also the odd lever thing: So just what is that lever for? I reckon it's to do with the Anhängerdreieck. 'The what?', you may ask. You'll probably know what the Anhängerdreieck is without knowing its name. It is the triangle thing on the cab roof that indicates whether the truck is towing a trailer (triangle up if towing, down otherwise): There were different flavors of Anhängerdreieck, some illuminated, some not. In most cases the triangles were actuated by lever from the cab, which explains our odd lever, similar to that seen here: Our truck won't be towing, so the triangle should be down. But which way should the lever be pointing if the triangle is down? This example is similar to our Anhängerdreieck, and it looks like you crank the lever anticlockwise to the right to depress the triangle, so that's where our lever will be: Putting the cab together it seems like the cheat with the rectangular panel may actually work in hiding most of the join: Finally a quick shot from the front. You never know, some of this work may actually be visible when the cab goes together: And that brings things up to date, Cheers, and thanks for looking, Paul.
  13. Scotches perhaps? As per this comment found here... 'when transporting loads that are likely to "Roll" on the back of a vehicle should be scutched both front and back with the scotches which are usually wooden wedges these should be secured to the trailer or vehicle body floor using nails or any other securing measures which are appropriate for use on the load in question' Or this comment found here 'Do use wedges, scotches etc., so that your load cannot move.' Talking of scotches, where did I put that bottle of Talisker? Paul.
  14. Thanks Matt, Vytauyas and Andrew. In truth, I only chose that image as it was one I had handy to prove Google Blog for picture hosting as an alternative to Village.Photos. VP now seem to be a dead duck. It's been 15 days since VP's security certificate expired, if they haven't updated it in that time I suspect they never will. The photo is actually from my other build thread over in Maritime of a SLC 200 Maiale (I'd offer up a link but it seems a tad pointless and you wouldn't be able to see any photos anyway ). I will post the odd picture of the Maiale here though, starting with a quick question... Probably being a bit thick, but how would awkward loads such as this be secured...? a) By lashing to the truck bed uprights in some way (see rubbish example scribbled in red)? Probably the obvious and most likely answer I guess. b) By lashing to some kind of tie downs affixed to the bed floor in some way (see rubbish example scribbled in black)? c) Nothing special done to secure, relying on gravity and friction to stop things shifting around? Unlikely, but if the driver took things steady it may be OK. Meanwhile, work on the cab is continuing, mainly in an area that I didn't plan to do any work on, but hey, best laid plans and all that! When taping the cab together to check for fit, I noticed that the rear wall is quite visible through the windscreen, which is a shame as it is pretty featureless, and has a 'hard to tidy up' join seam across the top of the window: Now this isn't wrong in any way, there being examples that exhibit this featureless rear wall: But there again there are also examples that show a more interesting internal structure, which got the old cogs turning: These wreak pictures show things more clearly, there looking to be an internal frame to the cab which is bolted together. I assume that the outer skin is attached to this frame, and sometimes an internal skin is attached at the rear giving the featureless appearance: Originally I wasn't planning on replicating this internal cab frame, but one thing led to another, and before too long we had a Mock Tudor Mercedes: The curved sections over the doors were more of a challenge. The door was used as a template to sketch the curve onto a laminate of card stock, which was carefully cut and shaped to approximate the frame. Once the 'umbilical' was severed we ended up with two (nearly) identical 'lintels': A recess had to be scraped from the cab roof to allow the upper door framework to sit flush and vertical(ish). Straight framework section could then be added for the door verticals, the joint hidden by some spare etch that mimics the brackets that hold the framework together: Eventually we end up with something that looks a bit like the cab framework: Which makes for a more interesting view through the windscreen (and hides the nasty join seam to boot). Win, win!: I'm still getting used to Blogger as a photo host so I hope these pictures are coming through OK. Cheers, and thanks for looking, Paul.
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