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JWM last won the day on October 28 2016

JWM had the most liked content!

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About JWM

  • Rank
    Completely Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 06/11/1959

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Krakow, Poland
  • Interests
    Airplanes 1935-45

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  1. Very much perhaps too many details one can find in SM 55 manual available in NET https://ww2aircraft.net/forum/threads/savoia-marchetti-s-55-manuals.40796/ If for exmple Dora Wings ( @dora ) will work one day on kit of SM 55X in series of SM 55 variants I hope that manual could be helpful... Regards J-W
  2. Hi Since all canopy frames goes wrong one have to sand down all frames I used snadpaper 600 in wet conditions and then 2000, also with water. Finally I polished is with cotton textile (my jeans). Then I masked new frams and sprayed it When dry I will paint it with matt varnish. I painted allover airplane in alu dope (Humbrol 191 with some white 34). I am going to cover it with matt varnish. There are many corrections to be done due to apparently mistakes in my masking One cable from rigging is broken. I have to repair. If you will carefully on above photo you can notice that I added control cables to elevator Cheers J-W
  3. Indeed! It is just chocolade or marron! More red than Dark Earth. I've bumped to photos of restored P11 recently. The problems of Polish colours is why I have not presented here any of mine Polish machines from 1939... I am pretty sure that all those models, which I did some 20 years ago, had completly wrong colours (greenish all) regarding what people know/thing/consider (???) now about those colours. I am more and more close to repaint them all to brown... But I am not ready for it yet, Regards J-W
  4. Great work! It looks so perfect, no even suggestion of any scratch work happend here... So I see it is not only me, who has models made plus forty years ago Cheers J-W
  5. Ed, very nice build of P11C in scheme of Polish Korpus Ochrony Pogranicza (KOP - the border protection forces in free translation). They stund up against Soviet invasion after 17 September 1939. Regarding colours (as I also wrote you in PM previousely) among Polish aviation history fans and profesionalists the option of brown interpretation of Polish Kaki colour, however it is nit so clear since likely different series of P11 (and earlier P7) could be painted with different shades of olive green or brown. What can be interesting to all after recent strong repair of Krakow museum P11c it is now painted in a colour of almost milk chocolate brown. In Net you can find an interesting movie of this restored P11c while taxing . Cheers J-W
  6. It depends how one is motivated to have it. Look, let discuss it this way - 30 pounds is perhaps six beers in a pub. On the other hand how many eveings one play with model? Maybe 15 is not enough. Let say it is three weeks - all late afternoons and evenings to do it. So six beers for 21 days - is it a lot for a good time? Cheers! J-W
  7. Indeed, use of "ready made"clear parts is very conviniet , I keep some packeges which looks like potentially suitable for different canopies in my spare part box... Good choice! But I will go maybe rather for AAA battery size. Some interesting package are from drills, since it is in different sizes Cheers J-W
  8. BTW - The same failure is in Airfix Ford Trimotor! I replaced in my Trimotor by copying and resin casting of Northrop Gamma props by Williams Bros.
  9. There is another risk with filling front surface - with time the normal putty drying all the time shrank, so with time it will bound prop. It works (eveporates thinner) for years - I know it from experience, it happend to me. So you have to use chemical fixed putty (resin) for this filling, it is stable after fixation.
  10. Great achievement! I admire your efforts and skills. How you have heated plastic? Is it a bit soft when you start pumping? Or you first pump and them start to heat? It should be heated in an uniform way, Maybe it is kind of experience you have to get. The size of model is not helping here. Regarding a bit waving surface - It can be due to not perfect evacuation of air from surface of your "stamp" or form (so between plastic and form). All vacu kits I had in my hands have small dots seldomly on surface, which are the sites of air evacuation holes, which are present on the form at distance of some cm apart one from another. You did air evacuation matrix on sides but you have not drilled your fuselage (stamp/form) in any place. So when the plastic wraps around it if an air bulb will be trapped it cannot be evacuated. I do not have any personal exparience with vacu, only my experimantal physicist background tells me that... So maybe I am wrong Cheers J-W
  11. P.S. Tiger engine is in AW Whitley by Fly (radial engines) You may try to copy it in resin Cheers J-W
  12. The most obvious TT Shark is No 504 The canopy is not very difficult to do. In mine Shark I did it glueing I think from 11 pieces, alternate you can do a vacu form. Please note her 3 blades prop and Tiger engine Cheers J-W
  13. Riging done with EZ There will be more riging, or rather more cables since the control cables goues on outsides (inner sides of upper booms). But I will do it after painting with alu dope. I started painting I have made bottoms of floats green as usually SM 55 of RA have, not black like it is on profile in last post. Sanded boom/wing transition Beech buggy Cheers J-W
  14. Silever dope: mixed humbrol 191 (~75%) with white 34 (~25%) Polished metal: Humbrol 191
  15. I have found in spare parts the turrets (only the clear parts) from Italeri Cant Z 501 Gabbiano, which looks very similar to what can be observed from photos about the turrets. So I will not do mine own just use them. BTW - this is a profile of SCW machine There is one obvious discrepency of this profile regarding photos - in real thing no black top covers of engines, the wole engine tower is allover silver. So I think also, that black bottoms of hulls are also false, I will do dark green as on majority of profiles for Italian Sm 55 are shown.
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