JWM

Hi, I started from careful look how the engine fits with canopy and decided to cut a piece of engine, glue to canopy and then lost the difference in height on joint. I looked on the engine and more differences and the biggest in a different look of a side radiator. I did the interior I removed one raised panel before the side radiator (oil, I presume) I glued in side windows and small outlets on engine fairing I added the side doors I realized, that on all but the prototype Late 290 there is no window below the canopy on left side, so I blinded it The oil cooler is made of scratch I drilled out the opening for the dorsal gunner turret. The turret itself I will take from Heller Potez 540. The oil radiator was corrected and painted To be continued Regards J-W

Very good news, but why have I just bought on secondary market the AML He 46?... BTW, once I did conversion for a sister ship to above F.303, the F.306 Regards J-W

Pat , here is the instruction for RS kit https://www.mojehobby.pl/products/Caudron-C-445-Goeland-8010975.html#gallery_start You see some inside details and colors on it. In general inside is blue gray, typical for French machines like here on C714 from Krakow museum https://forum.odkrywca.pl/uploads/monthly_2020_12/131940928_3551073591595637_5859499017053672569_o.jpg.8120d748d88c590b8a6811a68581f5c3.jpg The whee lbay, u/c legs. hubs etc - they are I think very likely similar to that of C-714 https://forum.odkrywca.pl/uploads/forum_old/photos/picsforum27/08_copy17.jpg Cheers J-W

Nice! Is it a conversion set or scratch work? GST had Soviet copies of Wright Cyclone nine cylinders radials. Some had the Polikarpov style keyston shape openings on partially blinden front of cowling.. sometime I think should do GST

Very nice indeed!

Sometimes there are errors in descriptions of photo. The original V-type empennage invented (1928) by eng. Jerzy Rudlicki was installed firstly on the Hanriot H.28 , so maybe the other photo is of Hanriot not Lublin R-XIII (both were produced by the same factory in Poland, AFAIR), Perhaps it was also modified during trials. Regards J-W.

High standard resin kit of Sum was produced in 1/72 by Ardpol, unfortunately not available now since this small company closed itself. There is also Broplan vacu of Sum, not bad as well I have it in my stash. BTW Zubr's indeed llimited charm or grace is on the level of early thirthies like that of BP Overstrand, Bloch 200, Mitsubishi hki1 or Dornier Do Y...

I found it here Model of P 1030 http://www.unicraft.biz/on/hawker1030/h1030.htm

I did the nose extension by 2 mm Started to fill the gaps in hope of making the insert invisible This is not a one evening process... On the bottom side I will try to modify area around the cooler Of other points - the floats got some putty,,,, To be cont. Regards J-W

Some photos from Net (likely you have them already) The above photo is of particular interest - you may see that the pattern is well defined, same on all 3 machines. Regards J-W

Hi, The Curtiss A12 Shrike from China (~1937-8) is presented in some light earth/dark green from top and light blue from bottoms side. Does anybody know, what exactly colors they might be? Who was the producer of it? Why they were not overall green? Because most of Chinese machines from the Second Sino-Japan work (1937-41) are overall dark green,,,, The instruction gives even the FS numbers. Also a strange earth (light or dark?) /dark green scheme is shown on Chinese Stearman PT 17 The Steraman is already from time of AVG, so maybe it is in British colors (by Du Pont). But why Shrikes had different scheme then Northorop Gamma, Vultee V-11, Curtiss Hawk II, III, and 75? Any suggestion welcome

I glued engine after some work on modified inlets of air to carburetors To gle I have used a 5 minutes epoxy glue, not the CA. The big parts of resin kit I like to glue using epoxy glue. I was happy.... And then suddenly at today morning I've read what Roger wrote above: Gosh!!! The engine looked so nice that I even did not thought at all, that anything can be wrong with it! I measured and this is true! With help of sharp knife I separated the nose (surprisingly easy! - I would be much difficult I use CA glue. This is difficult to illustrate but indeed some 2.5 mm the nose is to short. I will try modify it, not buying the replacement ... I checked other basic dimensions and the wings are ok (I agree with Roger, that the aerofoil could be really donme better!, but I will left it) The floats (after extension) are more or lest of right dimensions The tailplane / stabilzer have to short chord, but only that. I am intending to add basic element from resin, so I put tailplane into silicone, left two sprues near leading edge. Now I will fill it with resin glue, than do sanding etc. This will be the firs approximation. To be cont. Regards J-W

Hi, to be frank as you said, there are two confessions regarding the scheme on Loblin R XIII and I do not know which is correct.....

There are two solutions: one is lateral cut of wing, which is very difficult (likely not to be done by our, the modelers, in-home methods) , but the another is one is likely much easier. You can do a silicone forms of both upper and bottom sides of this wing and cast resin in those forms, filling them a bit more shallow then they are. You can control the width of wing by proper sanding inside parts of bottom and lower parts. The wing is very small in 1/72, so the casting should not be difficult. At least you may try and save the model Regards J-W