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Steve D

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Steve D last won the day on July 12

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  1. Thanks, I hate kits. At least all the accuracy mistakes here are my own, no one else to blame. Cheers Steve
  2. Thanks Rob, they had a certain primitive style Thanks Jeff, great to see your Flower back in one piece, I look forward to the RFI thread James, I think you did just fine Thanks John. He's a really nice chap and very helpful, I hope he makes enough to stay in business. His other site is mostly armoured vehicles in extreme detail, many with interiors, that you can print yourself. A great resource as you say Cheers and thanks again for the kind comments Steve Steve
  3. Thanks Brett, I hope to meet you there, will Sir Lancelot be coming? Talk about engineering Chris, the work you are doing on Invincible is stunning. I've been watching carefully, just love your metal work. Thanks Beefy, I continue to hope to inspire work in using traditional methods, though I feely admit they work better at larger scales than many here adopt Thanks again all Steve
  4. Thanks Andy, I've found that I really enjoy describing the process I go through and if I can make it interesting to others that is a real bonus and adds another dimension to the hobby. Thanks John, the research is so much fun. I've been doing this a long time now and am fortunate to have acquired a large library of reference material over the years. I still find books I don't remember buying.... Thanks David, since you made that comment in the build thread, it keeps coming back to me. The vessel takes you straight back to Jules Verne book illustrations, which were contemporary of course Thanks Stuart, my aim, to build models that will outlast me.. Thanks Richard, I'm not sure I'm unique, but I work in a certain way and I'm stuck with it... Cheers Andy, that is my intention. I've not exhibited since before Covid, think its time to get some models into the public eye. I hope we can meet up in November. Lastly, looking back at the photographs, there is really not a simple overview so here is a shot I took yesterday on my iphone which handled the lighting conditions better than my old Nikon... All the comments are too kind, but thanks for following Cheers Steve
  5. I bought David Lyon's book, "The First Destroyers" 20 years ago and since reading it, I knew I had to make one. The book contains a drawing of HMS Velox from 1904, but interestingly, also contained 3D isometric drawings of HMS Havock, the first of the type commissioned in 1894. Havock and her sister Hornet were Yarrow boats, built at Poplar on the Thames and were shorter by ~20ft than the other A class Torpedo Boat Destroyers. As I build at the relatively large scale of 1/4inch to the foot, length matters, I have to find a place for the finished model.. According to Edgar March, who wrote the definitive book on British Destroyers, Fisher asked Alfred Yarrow to propose a class of vessel that would surpass the performance of the French torpedo boats sitting a few miles across the English Channel. The outline plan he came up with is easily available on the internet, see below. Armed with a QF 12 pdr, 3 QF 6pdrs and 3 18 inch torpedo tubes, this concept design was the start of a class of ships later just known as Destroyers After successful speed trials, Havock was accepted into the navy in January 1894 Lyon's book included in its illustrations, a reproduction of Havock's as-fitted drawing which is held in the IWM collection at the Brass Foundry in Woolwich. I bought a full size scan of this and it is this single drawing that started the project. Regrettably, there are no lines or shell expansion drawings available, but the lines are relatively straight forward and the sections on this plan were sufficient to work them out, with the help of a half scale block model I made. The construction is plank on frame, plated in aluminium. All the fittings are brass, scratch, turned or etched. The boats are tissue and PVA over a mould, planked in card with wood fittings. The ship is mounted on a turned pillars set into a French polished, solid oak base board, with engraved name-plate from Engraving Studios who turn it round in a couple of days for ~£16 inc p&p. The model is 3' 10" long. It follows the style of builders models of the period, with the exception that is is weathered to represent a vessel that has seen some service, so salt and coal stained I support my models at the bow 1/4 point using a 2.4mm steel pin that slides inside a sleeve epoxied into the keel forward and generally with the rear pillar anchored round the keel aft. Havock has no exposed keel so for this model, I made up a cradle aft. Using pillars like this no only harks back to the builders models of the past, it allows a clear view of the lines of the ship and makes the model appear to float in the air. Photographing a black ship has challenges, in the end I reverted to flash photography to bring out the detail, however, it makes the images very light and not really the experience you get when viewing the model. The propellors are cast bronze to my drawings, one is slightly longer than the other possibly to prevent prop wash interference. I couldn't bring myself to weather them, sorry. I always place a single crewman on board to help viewer's understand the scale. This chap is in white working canvas trousers and blouse. I've read that in the Victorian and Edwardian navy ratings used white canvas working clothes as they could be washed without losing their colour. You see this in all the pictures, white is very common, even in home waters. The figure came from Steve at Aladdin models, below a collection of poses he created for me, I think the seated rating is a member of the ships boxing team. His website Aladdin Figures allows you to chose a pose, even freeze a motion in a particular position, and then request a 3d file to print it yourself, all for a very low fee, at really any scale. Check it out, he's very helpful and turnaround is fast. I'm very pleased with the torpedo tubes, the exposed bevel and worn gearing are in brass, using components from Alibaba, amazing what you can find searching The chart table shows a Victorian chart of the channel, of course Close-up of the un-weathered cutter, captains boat, would be kept pristine.. The lifesaving plan was to use these two Berthon collapsible boats, as also carried by RMS Titanic, one left covered and one exposed to show the detail, note also the meat safes hanging from the awning ridge wire. The Downton deck pump has a canvas hose coiled up in its stowage frame. This shot also shows the kedge anchor between the funnels. Note also the funnel inner sleeve. I like some hatches left open, there are ladders to descend into the depths of the ship. The flag was hand-painted and then set in a light breeze shape with weak PVA. The mast carried a lifting derrick to handle stores, the boats and load torpedoes which were then transferred aft on a trolly running on a rail line. A half round casing allowed them to be pushed into the tube, it is stowed beneath the cutter The guns are cast brass supplemented with etchings. Of all the parts I made, I'm probably most pleased with the 6drps, they worked really well. The wooden platform round the guns was cut on the laser cutter, don't know how I'd get it that fine any other way The turtleback foc's'le is full of gear and would have seen much more weathering with seas frequently breaking over it. The mooring lines came from my ropewalk, which is much in need of an overhaul after a quarter of a century of intermittent use... The anchors are held on their bed with chain on a quick release roller fitting. Letting that chain go would rapidly deploy the anchor So, there you have it, 1 year start to finish, many 1000's of tiny pieces, it's all right I think. More pictures on my flickr site My plan is to bring this and a couple of other models that I've not show before to Telford this year, so if any of you are in the area, please stop by and say hello. The build thread is here if you wish to check it out Build Thread Lastly, thanks to the followers and support I've had sharing the process of making it, I always appreciate comments, questions and challenges Back soon Cheers Steve
  6. That must have been fun. I worked on both DB Hercules and Thor in 1975, long hours, dangerous, often cold and wet, happy days..... Cheers Steve
  7. Thanks Stick, what a blizzard of likes! I hope you found it entertaining and good luck moving to metal... Cheers Steve
  8. Thanks Andrew for the kind comments, I also have a lot of tools... My lathe is also a unimat, the rather rare Unimat PC model, complete with milling head, bought over 20 years ago. I'm not sure, but I believe, that they didn't sell well and were only available for a short time, it was quite expensive at the time. It struggles on, is slightly under powered, but OK for brass. I keep looking around for a better small lathe but really, they all seem to have drawbacks so I stick with this one, at least I know its foibles Cheers Steve
  9. WW1 destroyers did not have Corticene decks, of that I am pretty sure. The V&W class vessels that survived into WW2 may have had this added between the wars, I don't know that detail, it was certainly standard in WW2. The main deck was referred to as the "Iron" deck and was steel with matting. The illustration is probably trying to show the mats not a deck treatment. It looks to me they are showing more matting than was used, it was only to prevent slipping, the mats were more like carpet runners, not edge fixed like they were on torpedo boats and TBD's Here is another black mid-WW1 destroyer deck clearly showing the coir mats with white canvas edging HMS Mentor, another M class from the early batch, back in Harwich after a collision at sea in early 1916, note the foc's'le deck detail Cheers Steve
  10. Thanks Dmitriy, I hope the thread was interesting and helpful, your support is much appreciated. Stay safe Cheers Steve
  11. Looking nice Jon. As I mentioned before, I built an M class destroyer 20 years ago, the one my grandfather served on, part of the Harwich Force. One note on painting I learnt that may be of interest. At Jutland the destroyers were all black but confusion during the night with the German destroyers combined with the fact that the black colour did not provide the camouflage expected gave rise to an order to repaint all destroyers grey. So, as she was at Jutland, you have the option to paint her black or grey. The decks were steel (dark grey) but had brown coir anti-slip canvas covering mats down the sides and surrounding the quarterdeck gun, the foc's'le gun didn't have matting due to it being quite wet in any kind of weather, it had radial anti-slip bars. Picture of an M class at sea, in black showing the number 2 gun on its raised platform. Early war as the midships searchlight has not been replaced by a a hi anti-zeppelin angle 2pdr and the quarterdeck of my model Cheers Steve
  12. A secret..... Thanks for the kind comments Stuart, new thread coming very soon Cheers Steve
  13. Thanks Pete, painting is my weak suit and weathering even more so. I'm acutely aware how easy it is to ruin a model with poor painting or bad weathering. I was very nervous weathering this model, peacetime navy is very different from wartime one, not much to do but paint in peace. However, looking at the few deck pictures available, it is clear that keeping these small and cluttered coal fired vessels pristine would have been next to impossible. So, any departure from a builders model finish means every items needs some knocking back This contemporary picture of a flotilla of 1st class TB's after coaling gives an idea of what it must have been like. Check out the edge highlights on the cowl vents, the rope coils scattered about the deck, the marked stains on the canvas deck covering, while the gunners are keeping the 6pdrs are shiny and obviously well cared for. I just noticed that canvas bucket on the second one, may need to make one of those Cheers Steve
  14. Thanks Beefy, I wish that were true, but hopefully in some way it pays homage to the work of those skilled craftsmen Thanks Jon, I hope the thread has entertained and informed. Ah Andy, if only I could make stuff move! My background was in structural engineering, static things I understand. However, at 1:48th, you have to incorporate details that demonstrate how stuff worked, its one reason I love the scale Thanks Jeff, that's a very kind thing to say. I just model the way I taught myself to and hopefully, these threads will help to keep some of the more traditional techniques alive Thanks John, it's the scale that makes this not only possible but also necessary. 1:32nd and larger, the rigging screws would need to be able to be tightened. 1:72nd and below you can get away with less detail (actual working shackles etc) due to the inherent limitations of materials. 1:48th is the perfect balance where brass sections just work and rivet detail is possible close to true scale. This is probably why builders models up to ~400ft long used this scale, cruisers and battleships tended to be 1:96th where impression mattered more than detail I sincerely appreciate all comments and discussions. I've learnt a lot from this forum and those conversations. I want to share as much research and detail as I can to help others who may want to model the same or similar subjects. Checking my build folder, I seem to have amassed 450 files during this build, its amazing how they build up! Thanks Steve
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