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Steve D

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  1. Thanks Stuart, I don't know if it's just me, but I look at stuff sometimes and wonder how I did that... Those cushions are a case in point
  2. And here are some more photographs of the details I love this anchor, all scratch made from bits of brass, the flukes fold and the cross bar slides to it fully folds per full scale practice These leather cushions are made from brown fimo, can't remember how many failed attempts it took to get them right Underneath the seat is the silencer and exhaust, with a grill to protect the passenger's legs The engine room bulkhead with fire extinguisher, great graphic made by Nigel at Flightline Graphics. The rev counter image came from an illustration I found on line. You can see the lifebouy rope well in this shot, made on a rope-walk I used to have. My Christmas Break project is to make another, better one The steering wheel was etched (4 pieces), is works with a servo controlling the bowden cables The hand operated light works if a battery is installed. Checker plate is diagonal mesh soldered to copper plate, centre section lifts out Beautiful arrangement of the rudder and propeller bushing. Exhaust in the background Steve
  3. Another post of a model I complete some time ago. This was a departure for me in terms of scale as this is built to 1:12th scale and was intended to be a working model, though in the end I didn't fit the motor. I completed is around 2010 and it languished on a shelf looking a bit rough. In 2015, I re-worked it and these pictures are of it as it is today. The boat was entered into the 2016 Model Engineering Exhibition where I was fortunate to be awarded a Silver medal, I'm not really sure why. Below are the notes I prepared for the exhibition: Overview I found drawings of this boat in a book written by Uffa Fox, first published in 1937 titled Racing Cruising and Design and as Uffa himself says, what appealed to me was the hull shape which I quote as I couldn’t write it better: “The flare off forward, throwing the sea away from her decks, is washed out amidships, where her side is plumb, while aft the tumblehome takes any heavy look away from her transom, and besides this cuts down on the wind suction from the stern by that much” Studying the drawings (reproduced below) I could see that it needed to be a largish model, so I chose 1:12 scale, a departure from my normal 1:48th scale. Seaplane tenders were designed to transfer passengers and crew from the shore to seaplanes. This tender, designed, built and operated by Saunders (later Saunders Roe) was used in the Solent between 1920 and WW2, I have not been able to find out and operational history other that which Uffa describes. He says it operated for 25 years (before 1937) but as Saunders only entered the seaplane business in 1920, I have dated it from then. The tender dimensions were: Length overall: 36ft Beam: 6ft 6in Draught: 2ft 5in Displacement: 2.43 tons Max Speed: 15 knots The model is 3 feet long Sources As can be seen from the drawings, there is very little true detail and searching the internet, the only photograph I could find is reproduced on the cover. Again, this shows very little detail, but I did find photographs of a similar seaplane tender, fully restored and for sale, plus drawings of many components in a copy of Davey & Co’s fittings catalogue from 1961 (most fittings had not changed since WW1). The model was built using the following sources: The plan in Uffa’s book Various illustrations of boat and ship fittings from Davy’s catalogue Some additional detail from the photographs found on the internet Conjecture Originally, the model was intended as a working model and still contains a motor, battery pack and servo, however, I have completed it as a static model, supported on an acrylic stand so the lines can be seen unencumbered and surrounded by the inter-war seaplanes Saunders-Roe produced. The image below is the only one I could find that shows the launch, in action... For interest, I include below a drawing of a fast motor launch (found on-line) which is clearly different to this one and the one in the photographs but showing a distinct family resemblance (dated 1920) Construction notes The hull was a major challenge and the real reason I built the model. There is no parallel section, it changes continually. Because if this, it is planked with double layer of diagonally laid 1/32nd balsa strips, bending across the grain, glued to thin open frames to produce a strong, very light hull. The hull was then coated, inside and out, with clear epoxy to both strengthen the balsa and render it water-tight. It has a single bulkhead at the front of the cockpit for added strength as I guess you would see in full scale practice. A 1/16th inch ply sub-deck was then attached (to deck beams forward) to further reinforce the construction and the deck planked in lime-wood with calking from black card. The passenger area was then also planked on the inside and the crew seat built up to act as a storage place for the battery box (see picture below). Finally, the framing for the passenger deck and rear seat (which all comes out to allow access to the rudder servo) was built up. The gratings were home-made to be the right size, being such a prominent aspect of the passenger area, as was the engineering plate in the crew space (etching glued to aluminium). The column throttle was turned and capped with an etched ring. The silencer and exhaust are modelled as shown on the drawing, the engine would have been water cooled via the exhaust and so I added a water intake on the port side below the water line and a heat shield where the passengers sit. I added the lifebuoy as it seemed strange she could have operated without one and the Saunders-Roe logo because I wanted it represented on the model. Other Fittings The fittings were primarily made of brass, with some help from custom etchings (wheel frame and rudder top pulley). The seat cushions were made from Fimo. The rev counter was modelled on this photograph of another seaplane tender (further pictures in appendix). Mostly the details were scaled up from the drawing above but the following fittings were added from Davey’s catalogue illustrations: The anchor I chose was a folding one (built up from brass) all of which works and certainly looks the part in its galvanised finish (Davey's illustration below) Commercial Fittings The only commercial components used were: The propeller and shaft The anchor chain and rudder chain All other components were scratch built. The name plate was custom etched to my drawings and the ensign hand-painted. And here is it at rest in its case, the pictures under the perspex base are Sunders-Roe flying boats of the 20's and 30's
  4. Thanks John The real challenge on this boat is the hull and deck. It is so fine, the deck slopes to the rear (like a slipper launch), and that concave stern is tricky. Giving it a flat deck with a finish deck added later across a central beam enabled me to get the compound curve reasonably accurate. It's a shame i didn't take any build pictures, at one point the whole hull and deck were shiny aluminium, seemed a shame to paint it. The SGB will be build the same with Aluminium plating over wood so you'll see what I mean. I was very excited to get three drawing from the Maritime Museum plans and photos service this week that I've been studying, will start that thread soon. One is the shell expansion drawing which contains secrets not shown in any other drawings I've got... Steve
  5. I've found the etching frame (the bit that's left when I've taken all the pieces out. It has the 4d ref on it, I will ask them if they still have it
  6. Thanks for the nice comments, I actually love this model because it is so clean, there is no-where to hide. The John Haynes plans are not great they contain some errors, be careful. I don't seem to have the Model Shipwright plan scanned on this PC so I'll have to look through my plans draw. I can send you the frames drawing and the etching drawing that $d use to make the etching and they will make one for you, don't think they keep the photo-tool for 5 years but I can ask them, that will save you money. Let me know where to send the files if you want them, happy to share Also check out flickr, someone has photographed the whole boat in close-up, excellent source, I have those pictures if you need them Stvee
  7. And the last few pictures of the deck houses The model is just under 2 feet long Steve
  8. Pictures The bow has a very fine entry Man touching up the paint on the stern, adds scale Close-up of the deck at the stern showing the rivet detail and the steering quadrant
  9. While I continue my research and drawings on the SGB I'm about to build, I thought I'd share some information on Turbinia, a model I completed ~6 years ago and entered into the 2014 Model Engineering Exhibition where it won a bronze metal and a cup for the best dispplayed ship model Below are the complete judging notes I prepared for the show: Ship details Turbinia was built by Charles Parsons in 1894 as a demonstration steam yacht to prove the feasibility of using stream turbines to power ships. When she was launched, she was the fastest vessel ever built, eventually achieving almost 35 knots, an amazing speed for a vessel only 100 feet long. Most famously, she gate crashed the 1897 Spithead review where the entire home fleet was drawn up for the Queen’s inspection. Sailing between the lines of battleships, she comfortably outpaced the torpedo boat chasers used as guard ships. I believe that from that point on, all new British warships were fitted with turbines, the propulsion unit that paved the way for the Dreadnought revolution. Her statistics are: Length: 103’ 9” Beam: 9’ Draught: 3’ Turbinia is preserved today in a museum in Newcastle. The model shows the yacht after a funnel rebuild as she was around 1900, generally as she is preserved. Sources The model was built using three plans: A John Haynes plan @ 1:48 scale: contains a number inaccuracies on the lines and the deck-house locations but useful for some details A model Shipwright plan set by Charles Sells @ 1:24 scale: much better, the lines are based on this plan A small plan reproduced in a booklet produced by Ken Smith in 1996, reproduced below, seems to be from original drawings and so taken as very accurate, albeit small Many current photographs of the preserved ship in the Newcastle museum and various contemporary pictures found on-line As with all plan sets drawn by others, once you get into the detail, discrepancies arise. However, the basics start with the frame centres. In Turbinia is was simple to work out that the frames are at 18 inch centres. The enables the deck houses to be positioned exactly as their ends have to rest on frames. It also positions the stanchions (also on frames) and a good guess at the longitudinal breaks in the shell plating. After a lot of thought, as no shell expansion drawing was available, it was decided to use 5 plates at the mid-ships point, giving a maximum plate width just less that 4’. As the keel strake has to be an inner, the bilge strake is an outer and the sheer strake an inner again. This seems to agree with the pictures of her in dry dock following a collision that nearly sunk her. I’m guessing that rivet lines are weaknesses and flush riveting expensive so minimising rivet lines makes sense. The shell plates all meet between frames (often forgotten that they cannot be joined on a frame line) and no two joins are in the same frame space. It may not be exactly as she was built, but it makes sense to construct it in the way. The bilge strake runs smoothly into the top of the flared stern, this can be seen clearly on one of the dry dock pictures. The deck plating is interesting. Three strakes were used as can be seen from the pictures, with a mixture of flush and raised riveting. I’ve followed this pattern from the photographs. The raised riveting makes sense where the jolly boat is as it provides more purchase when handling the boat. I’m not sure why they went to the trouble of flush rivets elsewhere though. Hull construction The basic hull is solid wood constructed around 1/16” ply frames as shown in the drawing below: The frames were drawn on a CAD package with keel slots, printed and stuck to ply with spray mount before cutting out. The keel, also from 1/16” ply was held straight with 2 x ¼” timber sections. After this was sanded to the downward curve of the rear deck, the whole frame was locked together with a flat deck plate from 1/32” ply. The forward deck house was originally designed to be visible and so this section of the hull was planked. In the event, so little could be seen through the desk house windows that extra interior detail here as omitted. Obeche blocks were cut to slide between the frames, glued and then sanded back to the ply frames. This made a very strong and straight hull with the fine stern deck slope correctly featured. The hull was then painted in a clear liquid epoxy to harden it, allowing for further shape refinement and to act as a firm base for the Aluminium hull plating. The cambered deck was added as a superimposed additional 1/32” ply section on top of a central strip of wood sanded fore and aft to simulate the complex compound curve of the deck. The superimposed deck section contained cut-outs for the funnel and deck houses, allowing them to have flat bases. The three propeller shaft tubes (in brass) were set into the frames before the blocks were added. The hull plating lines were marked out on the hull, with the plate butt lines marked to ensure stagger. Each plate was then cut from Aluminium sheet (4 thou for inner strakes, 8 thou for outer) and bonded to the hull with contact adhesive. With the exception of the stern, all plates are single curvature. The stern plates were heated and beaten to shape. The deck plates were similarly marked and cut out, however, on the deck, the frame lines had been drawn so that the rivet detail could be worked out where non-flush riveting is used. The rivets here are made with a wheel from the back of the plate, again remembering that deck plates do not join on frame lines. Deck houses and fittings The deck houses are made in wood and then plated in Aluminium with rivet detail marked out on the reverse as with the deck plating. The wheel house is made from sheet Copper over a wooden buck, silver-soldered as are the wheel house sliding doors. The funnel is made from sheet brass (for strength) and mounted on a wooden Aluminium lined buck. I included the two smoke stacks inside the funnel casing, the boiler is double ended and I assumed two stacks were used. The fittings are built up from custom etched parts (produced by 4D Model Suppliers) from my artwork (shown below) This contains: Deckhouse rivet flanges & rivet strips Steering quadrant pieces Window frames (2 parts each) Stanchion bases Hatches Deck lights Coal scuttles Wheelhouse portholes Propeller blades The 9 left and right hand propellers are a key feature on the vessel. They were made by turning the hubs in brass and then silver-soldering the blades on in a jig. The outer circle holds the blades, which have been turned through 45 deg, for soldering. After which it is cut away. The window frames were soldered together over an Aluminium jig which held them centred. The Perspex glazing was then snapped in. Using relief etching provides the opportunity for including all rivet detail, quite distinctive on some of the hatches and of course the deck-house flanges. The sheet illustrated was etched in 22 thou brass and produced ~300 pieces from an A5 sheet. The colour code means; Red is half etch from face and; Cyan is half etch from rear. The 10’ ships boat was made with tissue paper and dilute PVA over a wooden buck containing the planking lines. This was then lined on the outside in card when dry and then fitted out in the normal manner. The mast and flag yard are scratch made in brass as are the other minor fittings. I’ve fitted her with an Admiralty pattern anchor, not the Hall’s anchor she has today. This type of anchor is shown on some contemporary photographs and looked interesting to me. I’m guessing she could have carried either. Studying the photographs, the life rings were stored on the outside of the handrails, which seems unusual practice, but is probably due to the limited width on deck. Colours and display The colours follow the pattern of the preserved vessel with the exception of the hull below the water line. This has now been painted black, but contemporary references talk about dark green. Early models also show the hull in green and this colour was used on the vessel before it was moved to Newcastle. This illustration shows a model from the Science Museum. The hull is dark green below the water-line (which is set too low on this model, see contemporary pictures showing a much higher water line). I decided to use this colour for the model, there is plenty of evidence of a green hull and it lifts the model as it would have the actual vessel. The name on her side was a custom water slide made based on a drawing of the ship as preserved. Display is always a difficult problem. For this model, I decided to display it in a simulated dry dock to set it off and add scale to the model. Turbinia is a strange model to scale in your mind as there are no natural scale clues that really help. Adding the dry dock and the figure touching up the paint anchors the scale well. I took some hints from pictures of her in dry dock after a collision but the actual dry dock is not a true model, more a complex stand. She is shown finished and ready to re-float with all her paintwork bright, though age on the deck houses show she is not new. The bright paintwork is set-off by the dull grey dock. No flags are flown as she is not yet floating. The next post shows the completed model
  10. Awesome build, such excellent work at such a small scale, reminds me of Norman Ough, genius
  11. I really appreciate the nice comment, thanks. Actually, it was a lot of fun and made a welcome change, thinking about how I can do a similar job for CMB model. They were stored and launched sideways on rails, help me use up the remaining water ....
  12. It's finished and I'm quite pleased with the result, certainly its got lots of detail to create interest. The final touch is the magnificent figures from ModelU ( www.modelu3d.co.uk ) But first, back to the picture that inspired it And the final result A passing resemblance. The workman is inspecting the damage to the forefoot, while the rating is coming to check on progress The other workman on the platform is taking a break (amazingly, the height of the handrail fitted exactly to where his hand is resting, what are the odds?). A second rating seems to be getting the dinghy underway Meanwhile the dinghy in the boats shed is on the back-burner That ladder on the back was supposed to be against the stern but of course the water is in the way and it couldn't float!. There's a broken sled trolley and an old grating in the rubbish pile at the rear Much happier with the water ripples now, and the satin varnish on the black edge (black board paint) has finished the edge of the water covering the white edges where I removed the meniscus. The ratings are from Shapeways, (1:48th scale figures are tough to source....) Close-up of the first workman, hopefully you can see the paint pots though that repair will take more than paint! A water butt and some old bricks round the back, that pump needs painting, just look at the rust.... An attempt to show the lovely lines of the barge, this is a boat model after all, displayed rather elaborately Thanks for following and the nice comments, another thread coming soon
  13. Thanks Richard, I sincerely appreciate such comments from people who know how frustrating this hobby can be. I was very upset by the ripples, even my wife who normally takes only the slightest interest, said, "that doesn't look right" dooming my mood further.... The Vallejo water effect has improved the situation, but that is most definitely a skill that needs honing, next time eh? Cheers Steve
  14. Quick update, nearing completion now. The case is finished and being varnished, meanwhile, the barge clean-up is as good as I can make it, it suffered from 10 years in the workshop and some of that is too tough to fix now. Still, its in for reapir so I guess a little damage is to be expected. The water ripples were not a success, too distinctive, so I've covered the surface with Vallejo water effects which is self levelling and has hidden most of my errors. More practice needed with water.... Now with the barge installed and the shed back in place, a busy boat-yard scene. Broom just noticeable leaning against the boat frame in the shed and an atmospheric (ie badly lit) shot from the water end... Block and tackle visible at the end of the shed, there will be more rope lying about when its all done I've ordered two 1:48th scale workmen, one kneeling and one leaning. The kneeling one will be on the platform fixing the stem damage and the leaning one will be leaning against the boat frame. I just need to paint the edge black, add a little more clutter and complete the case and that's about it. Hopefully post some better pictures in a couple of weeks (we're away next weekend)
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