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Steve D

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About Steve D

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  1. Another master class is 3d drawing Pascal, I'll follow along watch and learn. Interesting that there is no bulbous bow.... Steve
  2. Sorry, I've been preoccupied with stripping out the new house and neglected the forum. Thanks for the nice comments, I'll post a few more pictures tomorrow. As a teaser, I drew the 4.7inch QF gun while we were packing and sent it off to Shapeways to print, came back a few days ago, but I've not had time to do anything with it... My plan was to have it printed in brass, but the cost was over £200.... Here is the artwork, it comes in 4 main pieces (3 print models as the carriage and tub are part of the same print job). I've also drawn the gun shield open, it hinges about the pivo
  3. Good luck with the strip down, I believe they have rust issues on the chassis The car I built as a Hawk ACE, MGB running gear with a US spec (i.e. carburetted ) TR6 engine and a removable hardtop. Here's a few pictures, the car is long gone, sold to provide funds for me to build the plane.... Thanks for the interest Cheers Steve
  4. It will be slow and somewhat intermittent, but I will continue the thread once our house move needs give me more time Thanks Steve
  5. Also great shot of a Dan buoy in that picture.. Yes, the round objects are valve actuating wheels on the manifold that controls the smoke chemical mix. The vertical type has a pressure gauge above the side pressure cylinders and three valves on the top leading to the pipe so it is safe to assume theses three are valves. On this model the pressure cylinder (singular) is laid horizontal so the pressure gauge may be laying horizontally behind the near end between the cylinder and the smoke vessel Steve
  6. Nice new project, love wooden boats Cheers Steve
  7. Jon It could be, though I'm guessing that would look more red than brown. I don't know what colour they came with from the factory though in the past I'd assumed black. Some pictures I've seen they are painted to match the camouflage flowing up from the hull, as ever, speculation is easy and the truth variable. Re the washes, there are better people on this forum than me on the subject. In the past, I've applied a clear coat to even things up before weathering but I don't know if that is best practice. Looking at that head -on shot Arjan posted, its interesting to s
  8. @Arjan always has the best pictures, great colour shot, though in the cleat photo the lifebuoy looks pretty white to me. However, I stand corrected re the introduction of Orange, thanks for that. Note also the rust coloured depth charge, interesting maybe its a Canadian thing....
  9. Lifebuoys were I believe mostly dirty white linen covered. Some pictures show them quartered in orange/red (I believe), but most of the pictures of MTB's I have they are all one colour. The dark orange is a post-war thing I think, though I'm happy to be corrected Cheers Steve
  10. No criticism intended Jon, just sharing thoughts. Colour schemes are all made up, no matter how much we kid ourselves we have exactly the right shade of blue/grey..... Real boats were dirty, washed out, salt covered, scarred, touched up, rusty, with weed on the waterline and the decks looked totally different when wet than when dry, And that's before we get into the debate about scale impacting colour and level of sheen.... Personally, I've never been able to bring myself to paint the ships bell, they look too nice in brass Cheers Steve
  11. For the future, my understanding is that shiny stuff was reserved for peacetime, in wartime they painted things, no time to polish. Also, shiny stuff on deck reflects light and gives away your location at night, bad karma....
  12. Arjan, just paint one yourself. Looking at your figures, your painting skills are certainly up to the challenge. Get a linen handkerchief, mount it on a board with masking tape over a print of the ensign, paint and use fabric paint (https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Tulip-Multi-Slick-Set-Pack/dp/B01HOS8106). This set will last a lifetime of flags. Takes 20 minutes max per side, second side just trace the first, paint the outline in clear varnish before cutting to prevent fraying and that you can then drape it once soaked in weak PVA to deliver the perfect ensign with the folds disguis
  13. I believe RN WW2 white was a sort of very pale cream, certainly not the brilliant white we see today or very pale grey. I've mixed my own with white plus a few drops of cream
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