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Steve D

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About Steve D

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  1. Steve D

    1:48 scale Fairmile B

    Short update before we go on holiday for two weeks. Still waiting for the transfers, no end of trouble with printing white edging, they are on their way but didn't make it in time for today. I'm also waiting on another small etched sheet that will allow me to make the windbreak round the wheelhouse neatly, still they will be here when we return. Meanwhile I've been touching up the paintwork, looking not bad now And I've finished off the depth charges and 2pdr ready use lockers and primed them. Also the mast and tabernacle are painted as are the bow and stern post assemblies Next I have to get the airbrush out not enough practice with an airbrush, totally lacking in confidence Next update in April
  2. Steve D

    1:48 scale Fairmile B

    Steady if not spectacular progress yesterday and today (I don't work Fridays) on the hull painting, tidying things up. To break it up I remade the bandstand splinter mats, finer. I used one of my metal sanding plates to emboss them with a texture which looks OK. The chocolate orange wrapper straps more or less worked and they are tied on with fine black cord. The platform is polished steel on the treads (which you can't see here), there will be more weathering later. Gun still in primer It all still looks rough in these close-ups (that bandstand is only 2" across), thankfully, with my eyesight, it looks much better in real life
  3. Steve D

    1:48 scale Fairmile B

    Quick update from today. I managed to complete the first of the twin Vickers, even though I got the soldering sequence wrong and so made much more work for myself than necessary. The right sequence should have been: Mounting pivot and sleeve to base - silver solder Gun sides one at a time plus pivot bar to base - paste Gun barrel and recoil tube together - silver solder Gun barrel to base with .5mm wire - paste Magazine to gun, one at a time with soldering iron - paste The second will be quicker and cleaner hopefully. This is 1/2 inch long and 1/4 inch wide, 16 parts all very fiddly Then I made a frame for the curved splinter mats on the RR 2pdr bandstand so they would hold the curve when baked (Fimo). My plan to to cut the tie straps from the wrapping of a chocolate orange which seems tough, flexible and easy to cut accurately, then they are tied on with fine cord through the straps. There is a great picture of this from an MTB I found. They turned out a bit thick so have been sanding.... Will see if this works and let you know, the jury is out, they don't seem delicate or even enough Then I remade the mainmast. The other one was too short and a bit rough, much happier with this, not a great picture though. The tabernacle is at 30 deg to the axis of the ship so that the mast lowers without hitting the funnel. Mast bands and mast-head fitted. On the Lambert drawings he shows the offset of the tabernacle in plan but in elevation shows a mast mounted in a circular fitting. The tabernacle makes more sense Also, the deck is now the right base colour and I've begun the undercoat of 507A on the superstructure while I wrestle with the wind deflectors on the wheelhouse (which the observant will have noted are missing as I couldn't work out how to make them in brass at the time, I have a plan now....)
  4. Steve D

    1:48 scale Fairmile B

    No offence taken of course, I've reprinted then in B&W, if its wrong, its wrong Any thoughts on the floor colour anyone?
  5. Steve D

    1:48 scale Fairmile B

    Just the sum of years of mistakes, the only thing I know for certain is that the silver solder runs towards the heat so heat the other side of the joint from the solder and magic, so much easier than soft solder
  6. Steve D

    1:48 scale Fairmile B

    Yup, but they were the only ones I could find on-line of the channel, its just a bit of fun really. Maybe I should reprint them in b&w, hate to upset anyone I did have one question that you may know the answer to, what colour would the wheelhouse floor be? I was thinking perhaps red oxide but I'd love to know the right answer, can't seem to find anything to tell me Thnaks Steve
  7. Steve D

    1:48 scale Fairmile B

    More progress today. Years ago when I was building Medea, I made a mold for casting two swan neck vents, a 4" and a 3". I dug it out today and cast some more for the B. Picture below shows the stages. The mold has not been used very much so the results are very clean. This is using low temperature alloy that you can cast in rudder molds, talc acts to lubricate to mold and help the metal flow. I'm going to use the 3" ones, the 4" looks too big Then i decided that the wheelhouse interior fittings were not good enough so remade them. The charts on the plan chest are channel charts. Don't know if you will be able to see these once it is finished, but the windows are quite large so maybe. Anyway, I'll know they are there And I finally finished adding all the features to the deck, probably over 100 individual items and I've drilled all the stanchion holes. So time to paint the deck its final colours correctly. Here it is before and after primer, starting to tidy up now that the colour is even You can just see the timber cradles for the depth charge carriers for the Y gun, the companion way is blocked with a piece of wood to prvent over-painting the white Big excitement this week, the custom waterslide decals should arrive, then I can complete the hull painting and varnish
  8. Steve D

    1:48 scale Fairmile B

    Short update, spent a lot of the day marking out the stanchion positions so that I can position the kick bars correctly, not much to show for it However, I did break the day up by making a brass locker which turned out OK, in the foreground you can see the main hatch with ladder down below, one of the reasons I've left the cover of that companionway frame. I have the hatch cover, not fitted yet, in copper. The locker looks suitably beaten up, this vessel has had hard service The padeyes are for the funnel stay wires, I've made shackles for them with 16ba bolts. Also a decent picture of one of the 4 24" hatches, all made in brass, seem to look OK Then I took another look at the stern jack and decided it wasn't good enough so spent a few hours making a new and fussier one with 16ba nuts and bolts holding it together That's 1.5 mm brass rod, turned in a taper, in primer below
  9. Steve D

    1:48 scale Fairmile B

    You're very kind, it's the only way I know. What I love about ship models is the endless list of components, each of which is a model in itself. This can sustain you over the years these models can take to complete. The challenge of how to make each item is what drives me. I hope to get the B completed this year, I know I have at least 6 months left before I'll be happy with the end result, even though it looks more finished than that. This is the first time I've shared my build process on-line, it is rather chaotic, parallel and cyclic, I often go back and rebuild to improve, there are many parts I'm still not happy with on this model. The pictures make it worse as they are larger than full size and are showing my inconsistencies and errors, sigh.... I'm also torn over the paint finish. The photos all show rather beaten up boats, as they would have been in service. My hull painting is also rather beaten up, mainly because it still needs more tidying up, however, I may leave it to attempt a much more weathered look than I've done before. But as I said at the start of the thread, painting is not in any way a strength, not enough practice to get good at it. With a couple of the other models, the hull and desk have been in metal and then I know I can get a good finish, with wood it is tough, scale effects are hard to mask.. Sorry, general ramble, just sharing my thoughts...
  10. Steve D

    1:48 scale Fairmile B

    It's getting there. slowly
  11. Steve D

    1:48 scale Fairmile B

    Update from today's work. I've been fitting more weapons rails and kick bars on the stern, these vessels were crammed with trip hazards, must have been a nightmare in the dark I've installed various components to help get the spacing right (the bandstand is larger than the ones in the drawings as they don't show the RR gun and it was longer and needed a larger bandstand). This has bunched up some areas, very hard to set out without everything in place. Made "U" shaped bracket from brass to position the crane in its stowed position. Other points to note are the bollards and fairleads, the two smoke floats you can see in the picture and the Y gun assembly. These are all printed by Shapeways to my drawings, available if anyone wants them. Also the 24" hatch with hinge etc. The rear companionway frame I've covered in fabric, still WIP, the forward one I've left in frame to allow a view of the ladder down into the lower desk house. The hatch is made (in copper) but not fitted in this picture. Not sure its good enough... You can also see the crew space funnel. Lastly, I've positioned a few of the cowel vents, again these were printed by shapeways on my 4th attempt to draw them correctly. There are 5 different cowel vents on this vessel. In the past I've made these in brass, but each one take ages to get right and given there are 14! I decided the have them printed, they came back great As per before, don't judge the painting, various stages, most in primer only As I look at these pictures, it all looks very scruffy, still a lot of work to do on the paint In the bow shot, I've placed the mainmast in its tabernacle which is set on a 30 degree angle to allow you to lower the mast without hitting anything, the tabernacle in the drawings is unclear. Mast bands not yet made, must more work on that area In the last picture you can see the cover plates for the fuel tank and also where I got the positions of the swan neck vents wrong, I iterate towards my goal as ever
  12. Steve D

    1:48 scale Fairmile B

    Disappointing pictures of the 3pdr ready use lockers I made today, all from brass (~29 pieces). This is less than 1 " long, they really are tiny. The hinges are from an etching set I did for the admirals barge, the locks (which you actually can't see) from an older etching. By accident the base is curved, I meant it to be flat but in the soldering, it curved, however, the curve matches the deck curve so I've accidentally made it better than I intended, accidents can be helpful.... They look better is real life, need a better camera, then second picture is after primer
  13. Steve D

    1:48 scale Fairmile B

    couple of more components of the 4 boxes of bits I've put together so far. The funnel is made from .015" thick copper round a permanent wooden former to provide strength. This one is my third attempt and I'm sticking with it, the "D" section at the top is brass, quite fiddly, but then what isn't.. Paint not final coat, will be held down by .7mm rivets The Holman projector I had 3D printed by Shapeways from my own 3D model drawing plus an etched sight and some wire, it rotates and pivots. My brass attempt was too crude looking by far so that went in the bin, sigh. Only primed at this stage In the background is the IWM picture of 188 that the model is based on. I wanted a B that wasn't over armoured and had an interesting paint scheme. Finding a picture of an actual vessel to model is important as they changed so much over the years. The caption says this is in the fleet anchorage, a northern approaches scheme
  14. Steve D

    1:48 scale Fairmile B

    You're very kind, I ruin more things than I make, but I keep trying
  15. Steve D

    1:48 scale Fairmile B

    Some more progress today, made the first of the holdfast anchors to help set out the anchor strengthening plates on the deck Years ago I bought a 1950 copy of Davy & Co chandlery catalogue, 230 pages all illustrated like the scan below. Every boat fitting imaginable, more or less unchanged since before WW1. This scan shows a clear image of the holdfast anchor, I'm guessing the 47" would have been used It really helps when you are making from scratch, hopefully my attempt does it justice, held together with 16ba screws, it rotates, remember this is only 1" long Thought I'd mount it on the deck and offer up some other things I've made such as the circular hatch and bowsprit assembly, checking it all fits in Figure for scale is from shapeways I'm close to final painting of the deck now, just a few more fittings left and then Ii can start tidying up the paintwork
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