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Steve D

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About Steve D

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  1. Great diorama Kev, nicely finished and weathered, beautiful piece of work Steve
  2. Thank you for the kind words. As I keep saying, I make more mistakes than pieces, but I'm very stubborn and if I can do it better, I just do it again. In the end, the results end up OK. I've tried plastic and I just make a mess. I find metal so much easier, you can take it apart and solder it again... Steve
  3. Quick post of a weekend of fiddling about really while i wait for the etching sheet. I turned up a Vickers RUL and made a mould to cast the 6 needed. Casting in low temperature alloy used for model soldiers Using talc as a release agent, works OK once the mould warms up, the first few are always rubbish. Here are the first three alongside a scratch-built paraffin tank and the wash-deck locket All just resting in place at this stage Then I started to lay out the rear deck correctly and make the three deflection rails that are prominent features on the pictures. Having three drawings, I should always check all three, The rear shelter is actually a blast screen from the 3 inch gun and is built into the reflection rail. Very clear on the admiralty drawing, not shown on the other two... These are made of .85mm wire and short lengths of 1.5 mm tube. Silver soldiering the wire to short lengths of tube allows you to assemble these complex shapes and then fix them with solder paste, the last one was interesting, 25 pieces.... The bases are 12ba washers and more lengths of 1.5mm tube. Not perfect but they will do, I guess these rails got bashed a lot in service, so I made mine pre-bashed.... The rivet straps as marking the 4 oil tanks, with a centre companionway between them. The pencil ring is the 3 inch gun circle and the crewman is standing in front of the rear Oerlikon mount Steve
  4. I've been at it off and on for 25 years, I guess something has to stick. Steve
  5. I did both, I used a toothed roller on the inside to make the marks and then a fine centre punch from the back to enlarge each surface dent. Sort of OK, could have been better, the 0.4mm is quite thick for this. The rivet line is quite distinctive in the pictures so I had to have a go at least. The problem with trying to show rivet detail is where to stop, you can't just do a bit of it. 1:48th is really the smallest scale where this is even possible, but it does mean a lot more work The toothed wheel works great on .2mm ali though Steve
  6. Relief etching in thick brass is different to flat etching in very thin sheets like you see on the etch detail sheets they sell for upgrading tank kits etc. The challenge is working out what will etch and not fall apart. Its easy to over draw it and then the lines get too fine and don't work. Because the etching takes place from both sides, the edge is not flat, it widens slightly to the surface, knowing how large to make the fold lines and slots is key, and I don't get it right a lot of the time. This time I've taken more trouble to allow for the width of the piece after folding so I don't get corner clashes like I did on the torpedo tube side brackets which i basically messed up and need quite a bit of fiddling to end up decent. Like most things in life, the more you do it, the better you should get... Finished drawing the ready use lockers yesterday, 2 sizes and 10 in total. This drawing is better (I think) than the one I got printed for the Fairmile B. It's a lot cheaper to print a set like this with joining pieces as they make a charge per piece as well as a volume charge (these are hollow). The holes in the locking arms are to take 0.5mm wire to make the arm extension, 60 odd arms to add....
  7. 2nd etching sheet artwork completed and sent off to be made, should be back early next week, can you tell what they are? Remember, red is half etch front, cyan half etch back, black leave alone, white etch through. Cyan I generally use for slots or fold lines, this is all in .45mm brass (18thou in old money) Obviously, there are 4 cable reels, the winch housing is interesting and should make up nicely, also there are the torpedo loading frames and bases, a locker that sits under the mid-ships gun platform, the rear movable crane,the meat and vegetable safes (the mesh will be added from a standard sheet of thinner material I have in stock), the searchlight platform outer ring frame and ladder, 4 more ladders, anchor flukes and the bridge wind deflector, two small water-tight hatches, crane bases, engine room skylight bases; the ones I made before needed the clips adding later, this proved immensely frustrating (throw across the room annoying) so this version has them pre-installed and they will just fold up. I've also added a couple of name plates that I might add to the bridge side, still considering that bit... And lastly the mine and dc rails I forgot last time and some spare clips, always useful The big red disk in the lower right is a ring platform around the base of the 2pdr power turret on the fo'c'sle. The normal tub sit 20" up on an extension drum, this disk sits between the two like a step up, should look cool with the anti-slip effect The pieces keep coming... Steve
  8. Thanks John, the .4mm copper is new to this project for me so I'm learning a lot. You can just about cut it with a knife, if you are careful and bend the seam to break it. This leaves a great edge without curling up that the snips do. The problem is after silver soldering it is soft, which is great for bending, but easy to damage and dent as I keep finding out. Nobody taught me any of this, I just started trying stuff and making bad pieces Steve
  9. Full weekend but little change really, sometimes it's like that. I assume you are still interested in my posting each detail, though progress has slowed down. Really, I need a second sheet of etchings that I have nearly finished drawing. That will be it apart from the guns, so actually, one by one, I'm getting closer I spent a bit of time laying our the rear deck and adding the small fittings. The last but one water-tight hatch has an interesting shaped screen, a high curve at towards the stern and square to the bow. I'm guessing this was a shelter for the stern Oerlikon crew, its not shown on the drawings but is very distinctive on the pictures. That is one fussy shape to make, in 0.5mm veneer, it will be canvas covered. You can also see the tow hook, the oil tank inspection hatches, vents and sight glasses plus the other 3 water-tight hatches and the cowl vent boxes There are more mine and depth charge mounts to go on, I missed them off the first sheet so they are on the second along with the crane. The raised rivet straps are marking the fore and aft oil tank bulk-heads On the main central platform, I completed the handrails and made the first twin vickers mount bucket. The wind deflector is on the 2nd etch sheet, strange angles as it rises to the bow, hope the drawing works out I also changed the platform support to a "T" section from the round I had done previously, that's what the pictures show. Nearly the end of the copper work, this boat has a lot. The angles on this boat are driving me crazy as you can see in this shot. The sharp rise to the bow makes that central assembly all over the place with strange angles, its a real challenge to make it look right, not straightforward at all. Deciding what is vertical and what follows the deck line, who knows if I'm getting it right, but the look seems OK The transfers didn't come, hopefully this week... Steve
  10. The custom water-slides are coming next week so I got on with painting the hull and fitting the scuttles (5/32nd brass tube, cut into 3 mm lengths (note how easily people of our generation mix units, I do it all the time) and filled with clear casting resin, which I also used for the searchlight lens while I had some mixed. I like the small brass ring effect this creates, the resin finish for some could be better, but I can fix that later. This is all matt and unvarnished, more work to go and weathering etc (back to that debate about how much to weather?) Bad picture, focus too deep, still it gives the impression (black waterline needs a little touch-up) This shot is better I also continued the ongoing task of making small brass components with a focus on the midships gun platform, ladders and railings, slightly fuzzy shot provides some detail. The gap at the back of the platform is filled with a RUL, hence no railings The steps to the cross walk are still work in progress, the pictures show them as dark wood so I've made them from walnut which varnished nicely. In the distance is the tub base for the 2pdr motorised mount. This will be topped with an etched sheet that acts as the mount base, the central section is getting more cluttered! Also, spent time on artwork for the bridge wind deflector etching as the start of the second etched sheet, pretty fussy Steve
  11. OK, so I reworked all the bridge pieces, and remade the wheel casing. I think I'm happy with this version. You will also see that I made the IFF aerial and installed a couple of speaking tubes Other changes, the binnacle platform is now the correct hexagon, the timber is finer, I've made the firing steps from some 1/48th checker plate I found on a railway site, made the alarm bells, the torpedo firing levers, strengthened the chart box and installed the Vickers swing mount brackets. And, I've installed a frame in the funnel, it looked too open and I believe they covered these with canvas when they were not in steam and that needs support. I've failed to find anything that shows this detail, but the frame here is logical and I like it... Here it is with the searchlight frame installed and the flag lockers Then I started painting the hull This is the marking artwork, the font is Arial Rounded bold, which is the closest to the photographs, I adjusted the kerning and I've edited the 3, widened the 0 but otherwise its a good fit to the font. This artwork has one set in black and one set in white (obviously that doesn't print on my printer). Anyway I've sent it off for a quote, assuming they are working. The draft marks are quite different to the Fairmile, no 6-inch line, the draft marks themselves are 6 inch high I found before that painting the light grey on a dark grey primer took ages to cover and still looked darker, so I've re primed the pale areas on the hull in white. Also a good guide for the final colour and a good impression of the camouflage pattern Little bit of overspray to fix, but the hull looks so much more purposeful with the the waterline painted
  12. I have my crew man with me, but didn't include in this picture, need to give him a name... It just feels too crowded, and yes, I am always tough on myself, it's a problem I have learned to live with. It has to look right, this just doesn't to me Steve
  13. Not all weekends show significant progress, this last one was a case in point. I spent a lot of time making the bow fair-lead (twice), think it looks OK. And I made some deck sheaves to route the anchor wire around the bow gun Also a lot of micro-filling on the hull joints and local priming, takes a lot of time and looks the same... I did paint the charthouse white primer to get an impression of what needs fixing there,... and made the fourth version of the ammunition davit, this one is a keeper, finally But the biggest disappointment was the internal bridge fittings, they are all slightly too large and cumbersome, will need to make them again with a finer eye.. Not having dimensioned drawings means you guess too much and the end result can be pretty bad... The binnacle and the hatch are OK, as it the torpedo launch levers, still debating the grating, that's the finest one I have, seems clunky. I also noticed that the binnacle stand is actually hexagonal not round, so that will need changing It all looks a bit rough in this picture
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