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About Faraway

  • Rank
    Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 11/07/1952

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  • Location
    Near Bristol. UK.
  • Interests
    If it can be stuck together, then I’ll have a go.

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  1. I have the Swordfish in my stash, with the PE rigging. Can you share your problems ? Or are they too traumatic. Jon
  2. Your excellent photos give me hope, I shall start playing with my camera. Jon
  3. @Troy Smith thanks for your advice. I will be playing about with different angles etc. In hindsight, I should have probably used another print of the backdrop and extended the concrete onto my grey tile. My camera does more then I understand (it’s probably more intelligent than me). The beauty of digital is the instant results. I have to say, having the backdrop DOES make a huge difference. Jon
  4. The sag on a couple of the wires happened after I attached the top wing, and the struts that the wire was attached to moved, a lesson learnt. It’s because I cheated by attaching the wire to the struts before mounting the top wing. What I should have done was drill holes in the wings, at the wire location points, fitted the top wing and then attached said wire. But that would have meant doing the rigging in very small spaces, I know my limits. Jon
  5. de Havilland DH82A Tiger Moth. K-2585/G-ANKT (formerly T6818) finished in the colours of the Royal Airforce Central Flying School Aerobatic Team, The Shuttleworth Collection, Old Warden Aerodrome, Bedfordshire England. 2018 I have to say, that this was a really great kit to build, with all the parts going together well. It's only the second Bi-plane I've built and has taught me quite a lot, things like proper planning of the build, I do tend to just bang on and I don't always listen to myself. I painted and decaled (is this a word ?) the wings long before they were needed and
  6. Steve. Good luck, the next few weeks are going to be interesting. Jon
  7. @bluriusz I just started this. Any advice would be most welcome. Jon
  8. @Troy Smith you are of tremendous help. When I painted my figures I found the highlighting and shadowing almost intuitive, it’s easy as we are surrounded by examples everywhere. Adding wear and tear to an aircraft or armoured vehicle has a whole different set of rules. I have posted a few WIP threads and on the whole, received encouraging comments, perhaps fellow BMers are too polite. I’ve just started an IBG kit, a 1/35 KTO Rosomak “The Green Devil” and am planning on ‘weathering’ it as I go, which I think is the best way, as some areas become unreachable as assembly progresses. Per
  9. @Troy Smith. Thank you for such an informative answer. You have given me much food for thought. I think it is very difficult to replicate wear, damage or weathering on models and keep it realistic, sometimes I think it’s best not to. Taking photos of my models is something I’m not very good at, but then, I’m not very good at taking photos of anything. But I will definitely have to try and use those sites you shortcutted (is that a word ?). As I said, this was my first go at any form of serious weathering and it gives me hope that I could improve. When I painted (90mm) figures I used oil paints
  10. Brian. Thanks. Weathering is not something I often do, but I thought it was about time I expanded my repertoire of techniques. Jon
  11. JR. I didn’t consider looking at photos, good idea. The nose was a bit a of a disaster, good point about the prop blades base. I think the spinner should have had a bit of wear too, maybe. I didn’t even consider walk ways, that’ll be for next time. You’re right about less is more, it’s knowing when to stop fiddling, I learnt that when I used to paint figures. Thanks for your guidance. Jon
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