This stream auto-updates
- Past hour
Olivier de St Raph replied to Olivier de St Raph's topic in Work in Progress - AircraftCan you precise this, please, Antonio?
speedy replied to Dr. Quack's topic in Ready for Inspection - AircraftThat's a great effort if you're coming in at this level. I got offered a back seat in this in 09 but the SMO wouldn't sign it off, so it never happened👎
Now I used to get this years ago in an era that was pre-airbrush. My diagnosis was that it was too much (Volume) in one area, again as yours brush painting. Re-glossing fixed it and then conscious application of Matt. I like the suggestion of humidity though, also I always warm my paints never out of the pot. I use the airing cupboard or put it on the radiator at this time of year. keep us posted. steve.
A. the metals plated on plastic parts are not the metals they appear to be. 'Chrome' is actually a bright aluminium. In the past Pyro did 'Gold' plated cars; the 'Gold' was anodised aluminium. The plating is an industrial process which would be extremely expensive for an individual to set up. Regular electroplating process cannot plate on to plastics B. your best option is the 'Gold' covering my Bare Metal Foil Company or one of the Alclad paints
-28C in Canada is, oh ey, Ill need a hat today -28C in England and its closed, frozen solid and riots brake out cos the Asda is shut. (but there will be a formal, orderly queue of looters outside) Believe it or not, it has actually gotten down to -15 here in Africa's Bottom. Most annoying, had to change out me flip flops
Gunpack views as requested A. On the model above B. Comparison of what is available 1. Early Airfix Blenheim IVF 2. Frog Blenheim IF 3. New Airfix Blenheim IVF 4. New Blenheim IF With a bit of plastic card, a plan and basic modelling skills one can make any sort from scratch but most of the Airfix Blenheims seem to have two anyway.
trickyrich replied to trickyrich's topic in Hawker (Siddeley) GBwell what a frustration day or so I’ve with this build! Up to now everything had been a breeze, everything just sort of fell together. But the front canopy put and end to that, it has to be the one letdown in a really amazing kit...though I suspect it's an isolate issues with mine!! But before that some of the other stuff done in between. The rockets and bomb were assembled, primed and painting started. I’m still undecided as to which way to go, bombs or rockets. The wheel covers and bomb/rocket mounts were cleaned up, primed and given their first coats. I’ll do all the panel line work next before their final coats. As mentioned my new wheels showed up. They are much better the ribbed ones were/are radial tyres which didn’t come into use until the mid 50’s or so….can’t remember. The third type of tyre was the square pattern type, from all the pictures I’ve found the RAN seemed to use the diamond type and RN the square type. For a simple two tone paint job it took age to mask up!! So once this was done it was time for the bit I dreaded, the front canopy! First off I needed to TRY and get it back into shape, the hot water trick sort of worked, but it was still not square. The hot water did though remove the nice shiny coating of future! I had to re-dip it, it came out ok. After some careful sanding and shaping of the fuselage opening I tacked it into place only to run out of CA cement…and then break it off again. Long story short, I managed to get it fitted and the join sort of ok after a couple of hours work using CA Gel. And that was the end of yesterday! Today I had other thing on and could get the her until this afternoon, when I could finally do the next colour. Again I used Mr Hobby H305 Grey paint (sometimes called “Gunship Grey”), thinned right back again with Levelling solution and Tamiya thinners. It’s a little bit lighter than the Tamiya XF-63 I was originally going to use, but it suited my purposes and it has a great semi-gloss finish I was after. So the results…FANTASTIC!!!! I couldn’t be happier with how it came off, as I was removing the masks things just got better. Here are the wings, I haven’t compared them colour/hue wish with the fuselage colour, but I don’t care if there’s a slight mismatch. Being for they were folded most of the time in desk I do expect to see a slight difference on fading, plus they’re going to be mounted folded so it won’t matter. The fuselage…..one small patch of over spray the managed to sneak under the mask on the LHS just in front of the elevator, super easy to fix, and that’s it no other faults. You can see the difference in colour between the spinner and the fuselage. I’ll either re-spray it with the Mr Hobby Grey or mist on some white. Maybe the latter as I also need to fade the lack of the prop blades. A few of the photos show the blades looking very secondhand! The roundels I will be hand painting with masks, this way I can distress them to match the main colours. The ID strips as mentioned, I’ll paint in reverse (well the wing ones), this way I can modulate the black (I may use Rubber Black or NATO black as they’re less intense) to give it a weathered look. Then laying over white the same way, giving a nice faded look. Well that was the plan until I found a photo of this aircraft (109) looking very new and clean but with only the white strips painted on! It looks like they painted the stripes on individually and not over a solid band which I always thought they did. Maybe this was the exception, I don’t know, ill have to have a bit more of a thing about how I’m going to do this! Well there’ll be a break in this build as I have to go back to work, my work in Queensland has ended so I get to be home each night. I may get to do the odd bit here and there if I have time. But my next break is just before the Carriers Ahoy GB, so I’d better get a move on with this one as that build is resin as well and huge!!!!!
Morning Chaps My wife is Type 2, as is the Mother In Law. (Mrs medicated and controlled, Mothermonster insulin dependant) I must say most, if not all outlets down here in SA are forthcoming with the sweetner's but there has been the odd one or two occasions that they haven't and you kind of get the 'i've got leprosy' look when you ask. (they are uneducated, they cant help it) Just a small tip though that might help. Wife has also done the other jacket thing and has had no sweetner. I put two of the small packets of sweetners in her purse and my wallet (you always have them with you), falling which I put one of those plastic sweetner dispensers in the car.
the big thing with resin models is to test fit, test fit, test fit....and test fit one final time! It sounds like a pain but it will make life so much easier. You really only get one chance to glue it in the right place with CA cement. For large joins epoxy glue is best, though if you can, doing small sections at a time with normal CA cement can work really well as well. If you have any gaps to fill, cut up leftover bit of resin to plug the gaps, it's perfect for that. Bent or warped bits, just a gentle bath on hot (not boiling) water will normal do the trick, have some cold water handy just in case (hot water will fix those mistakes as well). Finally before painting give the model a good wipe down with enamel thinners, it'll give you a good oil free base for the paint. I'm glad someone else is building a resin model, will follow with real interest. If you get stuck or need some advice just PM me, I build heaps of resin stuff.
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies replied to Olivier de St Raph's topic in Work in Progress - AircraftMy 2 big concerns here regarding colour are: 1) To measure colour we need a controlled light source of known temperature and strength, and, we need to control the angle observed from. Without these fixed, the exact same camera and if applicable film roll will give different results looking at the same paint every time. 2) WHY would there be stocks of Extra Dark Sea Green available for the USAAF to use? Who ordered it in the first place and why? By and large it was a colour we did not use. I really struggle to visualise a scenario whereby the RAF left paint stocks of a colour they likely never had delivered to stores there. When the USA was building Mustangs for the UK, the Ministry of Aircraft Production agreed that ANA613 Olive Drab could be used as the substitute for RAF Dark Green. They're not dissimilar shades and would be the natural choice given that choice between Dark Green and Extra Dark Sea Green. By my logic, it's far more likely the RAF had stores of Dark Green to leave behind for the USAAF to use.
Morning Chaps Oh don't worry, When I visit Nuneaton and doing some shopping, I'm Australian. My wife, who is Afrikaans, gets frustrated at someone in Asda in Nuneaton, and swears at them in Afrikaans and some guy just up the aisle bursts out laughing and says 'thats not very nice', in Afrikaans I was helping my cousin once get a window sorted out in the house, and the window chap asked if I spoke South African, I told him no I don't, but we have 14 official languages and i can help you out with a couple of those if you like. and finally.... whilst working in Zambia for an Australian Client, we had two American consultants. Honestly, not really the brightest little lights on the Christmas tree... One chap asked what language we spoke in South Africa, I told him South African and he was amazed, says he cant rightly say that he has ever heard that language before, I told him I was amazed because we'd only known him a couple of hours and he was already speaking it Mad Steve
In all my experiences, a gloss coat should never ruin a model, it’ll just make it glossier. Applying water should also have no effect on the decals unless the decals have not been applied correctly. If thats the case the decal should just slide to one side until it dries again probably in the wrong spot. I assume you are using acrylic products? Seeing you live in the US, go and visit your nearest Wallmarrt and invest in a bottle or two of Pledge Floor Care (clear flloor polish). This is a very shiny and tough gloss coat that will do more than one job for you. First and foremost it will protect your paint. It then gives you a smooth finish to apply your decals on. Once the decals are dry, reapply another coat of Pledge to seal in the decals. This is the stage where you can apply washes etc, however I’d hold off on all that until you’ve mastered what a nice clean final finish should look like. Tamiya sells a Flat Base product called X-21. This is not a flat coat, rather an flattening agent to take the shine away (dull) other gloss products. Make up a solution of Pledge and a few drops of X-21 until you get a dull looking liquid that you can brush with and apply with a wide flat brush to your model. Applying too much X-21 will result in the Matt whitening effect that you’ve got on your little Hurricane. Applying the Pledge without the X-21 will restore the colours (and shine) back again. This Pledge / X-21 mix is never easy to work out, however either add more polish or more flat agent until you get the final sheen your after. I’ll admit, I use an Airbrush, however there are many hand brushes on here that achieve fantastic results with the ‘hairy stick’. There are also many useful tutorial modelling videos on YouTube. Spend a rainy day watching as many as you can and don’t give up!! It’s a great hobby but you will always have horrid days no matter how many years you’ve been playing this silly game. I hope this helps.. and apologies if some of the stuff I’ve mentioned sounds a little basic. It’s hard knowing how experienced or knowledgeable you are whilst typing these words half way around the world!! Cheers.. Dave
The B-25 and B-26 reminded me that I always enjoyed Frog kits' relatively restrained surface detail as compared to Airfix rivets. Though neither was difficult to rectify, neither was satisfactory either. Frog's simple lines took less effort to remove with a couple of swipes with a safety razor blade or even sandpaper in a pinch. Seen from the side a lapped joint always struck me as looking like a cliff whereas a raised line resembles a ridge or maybe a line of poorly applied silicone caulking. How thick is a sheet of aluminum anyway? Reduced to 1/72 and the overlaps are invisible anyway unless you get your nose right up to the model. I prefer to remove it all, lines, rivets and whatnot and replace it sparingly with a very sharp 4H or 6H lead pencil. Not enough pressure to scratch the surface, just enough to suggest the faintest shadow.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 63 Members, 3 Anonymous, 170 Guests (See full list)
- John D.C. Masters
- Jon Bryon
- Eric Mc
- Roman Schilhart
- Rob G
- Alex Gordon
- Yorkshire man
- Rabbit Leader
- Paul A H
- Roger Newsome
- Kenny Walker
- Phil Evans
- Potato Pete
- Charlie Hugo
- Jon Kunac-Tabinor
- William Marshall
- Ed Russell