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shortCummins

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shortCummins last won the day on September 8

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About shortCummins

  • Birthday 11/01/1958

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cotgrave, Nottingham
  • Interests
    mainly WWII aircraft

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  1. I'm also waiting for one of these to arrive, such am elegant design rgds John(shortCummins)
  2. Eduard provide quite a few stencils for the P-51 however I don’t plan on using all of them. I’ve highlighted the “few” stencils I’ve added. Once again the carrier film was removed from some of the ones I used. Fuel filler details carrier removed, red “L” not removed I managed to remove some of the red from the “L”, I think it must have been the tweezers? Carrier film not removed from these decals. Next, I’ll be working on the landing gear and Brassin wheels. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  3. thanks Chris Eduard have engineered a really nice kit and have several "weekend" offerings for under £20, Hannants have one version, P-51D-20 with 4 marking options, for only £15.60 and ProfiPACK versions for under £30, very tempting I've also found out not to use white spirit on Xtreme Metal paints, good for future reference (providing I remember!) rgds John(shortCummins)
  4. The decals supplied with this weekend kit are digital printed by Eduard themselves, “in theory” the carrier film can be peeled once they have fully set, although Eduard don’t “officially*” recommend this, we’ll see how it goes? For this decalling session I’m only going to apply the scheme specific ones. Before removing the carrier film. The main reason for this scheme… This is the only decal, so far, where the carrier film is visible. I left them to fully cure overnight and then tried to gently peal away the carrier film by using a “new” scalpel blade to lift a corner and then tweezers to remove it. Carrier film removed… Will Patterson also mentioned on his YouTube channel that you can dissolve the carrier film with “mineral spirits”, not being American I can’t, reasonably priced anyway, easily get hold of mineral spirits however Google tells me that the “British” version is “white spirit”, luckily I had a bottle of this in the shed. So I tried applying the white spirit with a cotton bud to see if it is easier, could be useful for the “stencils”? The removal of the carrier film worked well however the white spirit?, could have just been over exertion with the cotton bud? I rubbed along the panel to try and make it uniform. *It’s worth noting that Eduard don’t recommend removal of the carrier film however in one of their monthly magazines, May 2021 pages 52-61, they provide detailed instructions on how to remove the carrier film. Next, I’ll be attempting to repair the damaged aluminium panel. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  5. thanks Eddie I'll try that mix rgds John(shortCummins)
  6. can anyone tell what colour the light blue Scillonia Airways use is? also does any paint manufacturer have a colour close to it thanks in advance John(shortCummins)
  7. I've painted both sides of the aircraft the same, I've painted adjacent panels the same shade, however I chose the "aluminium shades" at random, does that make sense? I used this photo... as a reference and tried to make the panels "more or less" match the different shades shown in the photo, however I didn't follow the "brightness" or "dullness" depicted and just chose different colours to help "break up" the overall effect. in the past I've tried Alcalds but couldn't get on with them, I also found they were very fragile, picking them up left finger marks!, these Xtreme Metals are far easier to work with, they spray beautifully providing you spray in thin coats building up the effect. As a hang-over from using Alclads I still handle the model wearing gloves and try to check my gloves for any paint or other detritus before handling the aircraft, on the odd occasion I've not checked I end up with a smudged paint mark transferred to the model and a quick expensive visit to the swear box. rgds John
  8. thanks James I think that "pure" black and white would have been too stark, having said that the stripes look black and white thanks Pete if you ever get the itch to build a 1:48 Mustang I can't recommend this kit highly enough! rgds John(shortCummins)
  9. thanks for the tip, I'll have a look at trying LP-11 with levelling thinner rather than rapid thinner? levelling thinner tends to make the paint more "glossy" while rapid thinner makes it "flatter". Alternatively I may try a light mist coat of white aluminium, that should make them brighter without making them look metallic? I'll have a play and see what works best. rgds John(shortCummins)
  10. Before attempting the invasion stripes I fixed the ailerons, elevators and fin. I masked for the white areas and sprayed a mix of MRP 004 white and a couple of drops of MRP 256 bleached linen to make a slightly off/dirty white. I’ve deliberately made the off white slightly blotchy, my thinking is that the invasion stripes were applied at the airfield rather than the factory?, so the paint wouldn’t have been “perfect”? Following this theme the “black” was a mix of MRP 077 NATO black with a couple of drops of MRP 59 RLM 66… …mask(s) removed. Next, I’ll be adding the decals. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  11. only just found this, she's very nice, i really like the scheme and you've done an excellent job on her rgds John(shortCummins)
  12. The anti-glare panel was first, I used MrColor H52 olive trap 50/50 MrLeveling thinner… …’highlights’ were added with a couple of drops of MrColor H326 yellow added to the thinned H52. I tried spraying the red directly over the aluminium, olive drab and black (primer on the spinner) colours however there was a very obvious difference in the red, caused by the underlying colour? So I applied a base colour of white. You’d think that white wouldn’t give better coverage than a darker colour?, however Once the white had dried I masked for the “red nose” and sprayed MrColor 003 red 50/50 MrLeveling thinner. The red was also applied to the spinner. Next, I’ll be adding the invasion stripes. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  13. Whilst browsing the old inter-web I came across this photo that shows various panels appearing as different “shades” of aluminium… …so I thought I’d use it as a guide for painting my aircraft I have several different Xtreme Metal aluminium shades, I will use these to differentiate some of the fuselage panels. AK478 - white aluminium AK480 - dark aluminium AK482 - duraluminium AK488 - matt aluminium AK477 - chrome (not sure if I’ll use this shade) AK476 - steel used for the exhaust panel Post-it notes, liquid mask and Tamiya tape were used to mask the panels and then the different were shades applied… AK476 - steel AK488 - matt aluminium AK482 - duraluminium AK480 - dark aluminium AK478 - white aluminium Mask(s) removed… Next, I’ll be adding the anti-glare and red nose paint. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  14. build the opacity up in thin layers and you won't go far wrong rgds John(shortCummins)
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