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shortCummins

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About shortCummins

  • Rank
    Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 11/01/1958

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cotgrave, Nottingham
  • Interests
    mainly WWII aircraft

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  1. I forgot to show the painted canopy with its green and grey camo’. For the markings firstly I added the sky fuselage band… …this photo shows the excellent raised rivet detail. Whilst I had the colour in the air-brush I painted the spinner. The leading edges of both wings need a yellow band so these were masked using Tamiya tapes. A base colour of white was painted, to give the yellow more “punch”… …Hobby Color H329 yellow FS13538 was then sprayed. The propellor tips also needed to painted yellow. Next I’ll be the using the Montex masks to paint the roundels and aircraft codes. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  2. I managed to find one on Kingkits so I'll be building a Sea Fury in the not too distant future rgds John(shortCummins)
  3. I'd like to have a display of the Typhoon, Tempest and Sea Fury, hmmm don't Airfix and Trumpeter do a 1:48 Sea Fury? which is the better kit I wonder rgds John(shortCummins)
  4. thanks TimT my natural inclination is to make her daily well used however I've not seen any "well worn" Tempests, but my version is an "active duty" war-time bird so she will be far from spotless. rgds John(shortCummins)
  5. nice idea, I'll be interested to see how the winter camo' turns out rgds John(shortCummins)
  6. both aircraft are stunning rgds John(shortCummins)
  7. that is mighty impressive as I struggle making random squiggles for "black basing" you can guess how impressed I am rgds John(shortCummins)
  8. Once the grey had fully cured I used thin worms of white-tac and Tamiya tape to mask the grey in preparation of adding the green paint. The marble layer was applied with 50/50 levelling thinner and Tamiya XF-81 dark green 2 (RAF) This was then blended with a highly thinned 80/20 XF-81 (still wet when I took these photos). I’m happier with this layer, as opposed to the grey, I think that I didn’t thin the grey as mush as I normally would. When the paint had dried I removed the white-tac and tape. Next I’ll be adding the Montex roundels and aircraft markings. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  9. it is a really nice kit, the raised rivets on the fuselage are just something else, the only "tricky" part is making sure that the cockpit and radiator sub-assemblies are properly aligned as otherwise joining the fuselage halves would be very problematic, I'm not sure that I got the radiator properly seated. My criteria for an excellent kit is "would I build it again", at this point I defiantly would, I do fancy making a "tug" version but unfortunately Eduard only sell the "specific" parts, different IP and tow cable set-up, in the Royal kit, and I don't really want to spend around £70 on that however if Eduard did a "conversion" or a weekend "TT.5" kit I'd get it in a heart beat. rgds John(shortCummins) Before starting on the topside camo’ the underside was masked. A very soft pencil was used to outline the camo’. The outline was then confirmed with a 50/50 mix of levelling thinner and Tamiya XF-82 ocean gray 2 (RAF) I reverted to hand-spraying the marble layer, rather than use the Jarek Rydzynski’s (JR Miniatures) masks. The marble layer was then blended with a heavily thinned 80/20 mix of XF-82. I don’t think that I thinned the paint enough, you can add extra layers of paint if you’ve “over-thinned” it, here the marble effect is not as pronounced as I’d like. It’s not bad and I’m sure by the time I’ve faded and weathered the camo’ it’ll turn out OK. Next I’ll be adding the green parts to the camo’. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  10. it was so much quicker than "hand-marbling" and I'm sure that with practice I'll be able to get the "softer" edges I'm after and as RadMax suggested using lighter and darker shades should create a really nice effect. rgds John(shortCummins)
  11. thanks for the idea RadMax, I'll give that a go, as you suggest I'll try on a mule before letting loose on the model, I like the idea of 'dirtying-up' the undersides with this method as Jarek did in his video. rgds John(shortCummins)
  12. I saw this 16 minute video of Jarek Rydzynski’s (JR Miniatures) marbling and weathering technique… https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZehnXDtUdE … I then got in touch with him via Facebook and purchased a set of his templates, 15 euro + 8 shipping, they took a little while to arrive but to be fair it was over Christmas and New Year. Here’s a 3 minute video of Jarek using and then cleaning one of the templates https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWA1vIo_8mg Using Tamiya XF-83 medium sea gray 2 50/50 mixed with Mr Levelling thinner, I used one of the templates to create a marble layer… …I normally do this “free hand” however using the templates is far quicker and easier. One of the things I try to create with the marbling is a “random” effect, doing it by hand its difficult to make it “random” as I naturally make the same movements with the airbrush. By rotating the mask I can almost guarantee that the marbling will be random. I’m not too sure with the result, it’s a little too “hard-edged” for my licking, I’ll need to experiment holding the template off the surface. To blend the marble layer I used thinned highly thinned 10/90 XF-83 built up in thin layers I’m reasonably happy with the result but I’m going to “free hand” the top camo’ and compare the results. With that in mind next I’ll be masking off the underside and spray the grey and green camo’. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  13. ha ha, if I were you I wouldn't follow me its a really good kit (so far) just be sure to use the fuselage sides as a template for the cockpit and intake sub assemblies as I recon it could be difficult to close the fuselage if their even slightly misaligned. isn't the raised rivet detail on the fuselage a joy to behold? rgds John(shortCummins)
  14. the infant cutting mat makes it really easy, also it has different "widths" 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9 and 1.0 so you should be able to accurately cut the width needed. rgds John(shortCummins)
  15. Hi RadMax8 the infini cutting mat is a really good piece of kit and very easy to use as your knife-blade travels along the grooves with precision. Previously I've cut thin strips of tape with a steel ruler however using this mat you'll get the same width every time, it was a bit hit'n'miss before, depending on the scale this might not be an issue. I'm now looking to use thin masks, I'll almost certainly use them to simulate ribs on material covered rudders and ailerons, I've a WWI biplane in the stash and it'll defiantly be used during that future build. rgds John(shortCummins)
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