SleeperService

As you have all requested Some background information. First go HERE and have a look at the hull when it was built as a tank. Then there is this photo Ignore this IT IS A FAKE!! I know this as I know who made it and why. It was put in Tankette the MAFVA member magazine as an April Fools joke with the admission following in the next issue. Now we come to what I know is real There is another picture showing the hull from a slightly different angle. In addition we know that there were 3 vehicles accepted by the Waffenamt Inspectors at Niebelungen Werke in August 1943. Of the 10 tanks built chassis numbers (150001 - 150009 inc & 150013) it is known that the command tank '003' issued in April 1944 was chassis 150013 (which was the last vehicle built and re-used a Ferdinand chassis number). All the models and writing on the web are based on that. Until somebody finds Grandfather Helmut's photo album showing the thing we have no photos of the built vehicles. Note that the GA is distorted above an artifact of processing. So now we need to look at the drawing with reference to the models. A. There are two circular marks above the driver/hull gunners position. These can only be circular hatches for access confirmed by the side view. They were needed as the tank had no hull access everybody entered through the turret hatches (only two of them BTW) because the turret was mounted as far forward as possible. Further evidence is the bulkhead behind the driver. B. The upper front opening has bevelled edges suggesting an outward opening section. This is shown as a plate on the model so seems OK. C. There is a large full-width ventilation opening behind the drivers bulkhead. This is the same size as three of the regular tanks rear mounted louvred hatches so that's what I think they are. The top view shows this area divided into three so I'm happy. Just visible are the lines showing the petrol engines directly behind the bulkhead. D. There are two fore-and-aft bulkheads directing the air forward on the outside and to the rear in the centre, they are angled out at the front to join the forward transverse bulkhead and continue down the rear of the vehicle to the carapace lower edge. The angled area is strange as the parallel sections don't sit anywhere special but...they just fit between the two rear towing loops. I believe that they are fixed to the hull here. E. Securing the front end would be trickier. It is possible that it could engage with the front towing loop otherwise it would be secured internally either at the hull outer edge or the lower edge of the bulkhead. F. At the rear there is a solid plate over the drive motors meeting with the transverse bulkhead just to their front. In the tank this cover had openings to help cooling but the is no sign of them.. Hmm... That's it for now, except for the blue text showing my thoughts everything else shows what I see.

Greetings Feline Fans! Day one has been mostly productive... There are several issues with the lower hull so an executive decision meant a replacement. Sometimes life is too short. So what have I done today while others were promenading at the Hinckley show you ask. The lower hull sides are cut out and, on the second attempt they matched both the plans and each other. While I recovered from the shock I checked over the road-wheel assemblies. They all needed some attention and the first completed unit is in the picture with the tube that'll run across the hull. The sprockets are both cleaned up and are ready for their axles. The last bits are the upper sponsons (or at least the front part) from the donor kit. The Bandai kit has the drivers plate sloped back too much so the white extensions will deal with that. Hopefully the next missive will feature the single drawing and 3 model photos that are all that exists to record this idiosyncratic flight of Teutonic thinking. More progress and even positive reports on the mojo restoring powers of Dr Porsche's creation.

I've focused on the Skybow/AFV Club Tiger I family but the Tamiya kit will be a certain workable alternative. At the very least I'd suggest photo-etch engine grills (Hauler does a set). If you don't want to splash cash on a metal barrel then I suggest putting the rear in a drill chuck, steadying the front with a cocktail stick or similar, spinning it slowly with a fine filing stick lightly held against the barrel. Keep it moving in one direction only (else the centre gets twice as much attention as each end), and viola a lovely round barrel with a great finish for paint. Next trick is to mask off behind the muzzle break and slap Mr Surfacer or similar over the brake. When tacky remove the tape. When completely dry remove the surfacer from the machined surfaces. The kit break is the right size but looks skinny because of the very smooth surface. Trust me that those two mods will make a huge improvement to the finished item. I'll be very interested in how the H-Models decals work out. I took one for the team with Peddinghaus's variable print quality (buy only if you can check them first, especially yellow areas). As I'm at the mercy of Universal Credit due to ill-health funds are tight.

Masterclub beat the Fruils hands down. One of our club members did a demo with them a while back and if they did 1/48th I'd be a good customer. The latest ones are the work of a genius (or a madman). Sergey reads and writes english perfectly but claims his spoken is not so good. I think he undersells himself.

You aren't alone! @Diego Have you considered doing stencil sheets to allow multiple builds from your sheets? I'd suspect many have old kits with rubbish decals or no stencil data at all.

I'll agree when it's finished Although I'm on medication for OCD there are limits. Seeing a Tamiya and Airfix Meteor side by side at a show showed something wasn't right. My next plan is to see the Cosford and Midland air Museum aircraft. If there's a difference between them my friend will spot it.

It started as one of the 10 built yes. Then it was extensively modified for it's new role. I'll post a drawing and such next time when I can find the images in my chaotic filing system.

Friends into sci-fi are very, very good sources of 80% present kits indeed. If you're into What-If? missing engine decks, cupolas, and similar are no problem That Airfix kit was among the first I built. Mum wouldn't allow me to do German stuff but Dad was inattentive. Be good to see this old campaigner getting a moment in the spotlight.

Skybow kits are now AFV Club. Apparently there were shenanigans when the moulds were completed. The replacement tracks are vital as the kit ones are too short in many boxes. Looks like you've been to see Nigel as well. The kit is great but be VERY careful with the screws for the wheel mountings. Stripped or broken axles are very close indeed to being just tight enough.

Smart idea to build them together. It will be interesting to see how they compare.

I'll support the unusual Either 4 or 5 appeals to me. If doing the BergeTiger be aware that only 653 Battalion got them. 654 had turned over their survivors before they arrived as far as I can tell.

Saw one of these at my Club meeting. We couldn't get it all back in the box either. Apparently these go together quite well but the tracks are frightening good call.

My thoughts exactly Steve. I'm trying something similar so I hope it works for us both.

That's when they were surrendering to the Americans I presume. Certainly shows that they could move quite well when they were running right. Are both track types in the kit?

Good choice Sir! Metal barrel is good but I'd really push to get etch engine grill covers at least. They're very obvious on the real thing and as simple as Simon to fit. I'd also suggest some black boxes under the openings to prevent a see through effect. Take your time with the tracks and they'll fit well, problems arise if you don't.