Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Paul Thompson

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

144 Excellent

About Paul Thompson

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 04/27/1958

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Dalgety Bay, Fife.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,100 profile views
  1. Glad I could help. I wish I could remember who sent me the PAM article originally. I'd advise Microscale liquid decal film for the Frog decals to be on the safe side. I've had them break up too. Whereas the Novo decals were never much good, some Frog ones that have made it this far have undergone deterioration of the carrier film. Cheers, Paul.
  2. Johnny, Steve, your copies have been sent. Do be aware, the plastic used by all the issues since Frog folded is very variable in quality, and mostly very flash ridden, so if you don't yet have the kit try for a Frog original. It may have hardened over the years but should be easier to work with. Paul.
  3. Okay. Waiting............................................................................................................ Paul.
  4. I did this once for a group build on the Unofficial Airfix Forum, based on a 4 page article in PAM news. I have scans of the article if you'd like them. The UAF build I later wrote up for Internet Modeler, and having just checked, it's still there. Here's the link: http://www.internetmodeler.com/2007/may/aviation/frog_vimy.php . I hope that's useful. There was another 1/72nd kit, a vac by Eastern Star. Good kit, but hard to get (and the company was quite dodgy, according to John Adams who supplied the white metal content, and didn't stick around long). Paul.
  5. ................and that did the trick. The default wasn't the default. Thanks for taking the time to look at this. I do get the 'array' thing as well, BTW, but make a point of not being world-shatteringly disturbed by more than one thing on any given day. so no pictures. Paul.
  6. Location is set to Dalgety Bay, Fife. Does it need to actually specify UK? I can't see any other editable bit that would do the job (but then, I am very short sighted). Anyway, not a problem. Paul.
  7. Sorry I don't have time to check if this has been posted, but are you aware that the date in the forum migration and software update pages linked to on the green banners is in American format? It's not just picking up on my PC settings, because they,re UK. Paul.
  8. I always remove the first load of excess by scraping with a blade, and having water about doesn't help with that at all. Quickest part of preparation but most mess. As Jonners says, static makes it more challenging than one would wish. For sanding. both rough and fine tuning, I use both commercial and self made sanding sticks so I can hold the piece close to my ancient eyes. Makes it less likely to sand too much off if you miss the peeling away of the remnant ink mark. But I dip the stick in a cup of water every 30 seconds or so to reduce the sanding dust, and it also helps to keep from clogging the abrasive surface. Of course you also need to mop the sludge off as it builds up so you can see what your doing, so it's just as messy but with less ending up inside your lungs/mask.
  9. Very interesting. I have this one to just slightly ahead of where you are, having finished sanding/ripping down with a knife, but then it's been in that state for 6 years. Largely because I have what must be an earlier issue, which has very crude injection moulded parts where you have white metal. I've also got a couple of the 1/48th versions to the same stage, one of which has similar parts in metal, and the other lacking them entirely, requiring some scratching. I'm hoping your efforts will kick start mine. No pressure............ Paul.
  10. The 1/72nd Roden kits have one major problem, the lower wing fit being too tight. It takes about 2 minutes to file enough plastic away from the wing ends and fuselage sides, then it's fine. The decals, OTOH, are usually very hard to use. Paul.
  11. No, still available, but only for one machine, and AFAIK only from Hannants: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/TM48115 Not particcularly colourful either though. Paul.
  12. AFAIK SAC only covered the D.III and/or V. I used a set once, and they were a total waste, being very poorly cast and needing extensive clean up. They included U/C as well as main struts, and they weren't strong enough to take the weight of the model. Paul.
  13. Worth bearing in mind, the current vougue leans towards a greenish shade of khaki, but the terrain most of these things flew over was largely churned up mud. So to my mind, greenish isn't it. All commercially available PC10s I've seen are far too green, and most of the mixes too. Can't easily get Gunze paints where I live, so haven't experimented with them. Paul.
  14. Not the same, because the wing doesn't come right off. Anyway, it's rigged more like a Swordfish so that you don't have to detach any wires to fold the wing, as far as I recall from the one I did in 1/72nd. Paul.
  15. I think separate pieces for the folding fillets argues that it could be an option . Paul.
  • Create New...