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Paul Thompson

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About Paul Thompson

  • Birthday 04/27/1958

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    Dalgety Bay, Fife.

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  1. Hey, you could carry things in a Bristol Fighter. Just not a lot, that's all. Paul.
  2. I'd also remove the groove on the fuselage if I was you. This is a misinterpretation of the stitching along the side, made originally by CMR, whose kit served as the master for the KP one. I'd also check the markings you plan on using if you're using the kit ones. The boxing I've built had an RAAF presentation machine with a white stripe below the cockpit which seems to have been traced off the side profile, so ends where the wing tip cuts off the view (the real one went down to the wing root, the decal stops 1/2cm short). Just sayin'. Paul.
  3. Having built several, despite disliking the scale, I have to differ. I don't think most people able to stick two bits of plastic together would make errors so long as they followed the instructions. WNW went out of their way to make it all as foolproof and easy as possible. Imagine if Tamiya had stopped trading. Would you not built those kits in your stash for fear of damaging them? Paul.
  4. So now it'll be 63 plus a few years. Paul.
  5. What does not kill us makes us ...................... oh well, you know what I mean. I know exactly how you feel. Paul.
  6. A few years of Ebay prices will do that to you. Paul.
  7. To be fair it's possible Valom may have redone the transparancies. I don't know in this case, but they have a history of getting them oversized. I've done a handfull of their kits and those are always the weak points (along with vague instructions regarding parts placement). Otherwise I think they're fairly decent so long as you treat them as limited run. Paul.
  8. Now I feel like an idiot. Back to normal, then. Yes, Maketar are the manufacturers. I'm lucky, living in the UK means Hannants send that sort of item (i.e. flat) post free. FWIW there is enough spare material on the Maketar sheets to use for much additional masking. The paper itself is more akin to that used by Eduard than Tamiya, so cuts easily. I've used Peewit masks for a Valom Bristol Bombay. Very thin but tough Kabuki type paper, came off the sheet easily, stuck down well. How effective I don't yet know because I only just sprayed the paint last night and it still hasn't fully cured. The one downside so far is that they are very slightly oversized for some reason. Can be kicked into shape without the need for trimming but unexpected nonetheless. Paul.
  9. You don't, so long as the framing is pronounced sufficiently. You cover the canopy with the thinnest Kabuki tape you can find. Baremetal Foil works better but is more expensive and if left on too long can leave a residue of adhesive. Whatever the material, use a cocktail stick to burnish the tape down and make sure it goes right into the edges of the framing. Finally, and you'd want to practice this on a dead canopy until you get confident, which doesn't take long, use a fresh (scalpel) blade and run it around the frame lines, then just pull the stuff off where you want the paint to go. Give a final burnish before painting. If the framework is too sloppy to do this then either buy the Canopy Survival set, which over here is around 15 quid and consists of 3 A5 sheets of die cut Kabuki tape in many useful shapes. I've used this a lot and it goes a long way. Just give the bit you want to mask a good eyeballing and cut segments off to run around the frame edges, then fill in with cheaper (Tamiya) tape. You can do the same of course with Tamiya tape alone, but the pre-cut bits make it quicker, and a little easier. Paul.
  10. I'm just wondering why you want to do that, seeing how the Sopwith Triplane only had turnbuckes on the internal rigging and the control lines, the wing and tailplane bracing being done with RAFwires. I've done a few of the new Copper State kits and although fit isn't as good as WNW they still build much better than most of the competition. Paul.
  11. Good choice. No double flying wires, unlike most other RFC/RAF types, whatever the size. Paul.
  12. A perfect example of similar design philosophy (at least in objectives) being coupled with sub-optimal moulding fidelity, which I think is largely due to the production plastic being a different quality to whatever is used for development and test building. I'm talking onlly about the BE2C and Eindekker - both Tiger Moths have worked fine for me, which may just mean I got lucky and bought a few produced on a good day. But now I'll stop talking about Airfix because this is about WNW and thread drift is oh so easy................ Paul.
  13. If you can build any other kit, then you can build a WNW one, no matter the number of wings, because of how they're engineered. It's one of the rare cases where the engineering, which was developed with ease of assembly in mind, is matched by the fidelity of the moulding, so that it works as intended. As a result, the most tricky part of building a biplane (getting the top wing on) is a doddle. Second trickiest is rigging, and they've made it as easy as can be done by moulding the rigging locations - okay, you need to deepen the holes a bit, but that's not rocket science. Then with EZline and superglue, you can rig the average sized scout in an hour or so. Paul.
  14. The enthusiasm won't last but at this stage I'd like to do the vacform 1/72nd DH10 I think I mentioned way back but am too lazy to check, and maybe also a Blue Max 1/48th DH2 (because I'm just reading the new DH2 book from Cross & Cockade I bought at the weekend). Paul.
  15. Aeroclub also did more accurate undercarriage. Same comments on availability as earlier. Beware resin cockpits. If they're old ones they'll be meant for the Academy kit and won't address the errors, just adding detail, as far as I recall (which may not be far enough). Paul.
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