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Paul Thompson

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About Paul Thompson

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    Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 04/27/1958

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    Dalgety Bay, Fife.

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  1. There's a photo of this machine on page 32 of the Windsock Datafile. Rudder stripes and the bit of fuselage roundel visible look to be reduced visibility, and on home defense machines it was common to paint out the white on the under-wing markings. I'd leave the bombs off for home defense. The Holt flares are visible. The photo is unfortunately taken almost at the level of the tailplane, so you can't judge the sweep or otherwise. The tailplane was mentioned as in error in Ray Rimell's review in Windsock vol 22 no.5 when the kit was released, but the fix is relatively easy. Find a plan, and tr
  2. Paul Thompson


    Mine is in a drawer, so it's hard to tell. Paul.
  3. Paul Thompson


    There is also a Mr Kit acrylic NIVO, but good luck ordering that (unless you live in Italy). Paul.
  4. I appreciate the trouble you took. I don't think you missed it, I think it was on the point of going when you rescued it, witness that it didn't come off the sprue attachment (which to be fair was visibly more robust than where the part snapped). Due to the nature of the shape it was an accident waiting to happen, and I'd not be suprised if many that arrive intact get knocked off by the builders in due course. I reckon my postie gives all my incoming mail a stress test anyway, so as you suggest that was probably the final straw. Paul.
  5. I've received one of these yesterday and had a good look. I'd just like to knock this warped wing bit on the head if you don't mind. I know you shouldn't expect it in a modern kit, but worse things happen at sea, and although mine all had more pronounced warping than I've seen in online photos, I have just fixed it this morning. It took less than a minute, simply flexing the wing while bracing with my thumbs. That was a couple of hours ago and they're still fixed. I also scraped the very fine line along the mould parting on one of the wing leading edges to see how the plastic worked and if it
  6. Even the awful original Eduard Albatros C.III wings (akin to a banana) and the Dragon Fokker D.VIIs, which were miles worse than what you have in those shots, could be straightened just by flexing, albeit somewhat agressively because the plastic was very thick and not of the best quality. No heat needed, just hold the ends with your fingers and push with your thumbs until the side that was being stretched went lighter due to the stress, at which point it was both straight and stable. Tempted to get one of these now. Paul.
  7. Okay, this came a couple of weeks ago but since I find myself still chuffed I'll mention it. Of Bay of Fleas I got an AJP Maquettes 1/48th Caudron G.4. Always wanted one since the range was originally released and reviewed in Windsock, but never had the dosh. I got this one for a 1/3rd the original price. Now, I've built the excellent CSM kit of the same, but this is sufficiently different to be worth a go. For those not in the know, most AJP kits were built up from a brass PE framework which once finished you covered with very fine paper a la flying models. No decals supplied, but I did bui
  8. Dave, I've built 6 or 7 of the Eduard 1/48th Nieuport variants and always had trouble getting the interplane vees to sit right when the cabanes have been certified in the right place, except once when it all went swimmingly (trouble as in it took a minute or two to sort out. Fine kits otherwise). Don't know if that carries over into the little brethren. Nigel Rayner would be the one to ask - my 1/72nd kits are still firmly on the sprues. Paul.
  9. I'd delay with the CSM kits, having built a few. They are lovely, and well worth the dosh, but there are several places with the Nieuports that you can come a cropper unless you're already pretty clued up on the type. Particularly the fuselage parts breakdown, where you build up the interior, add the external cladding of the front area, then build up separately and add the rear, some of which can be left uncovered if that's you're thing. There is much scope for cumulative errors. Having said that, if you already have the skills it goes together well and results in a very good model. The Caudro
  10. The Merit 1/24th kits are, to be polite, not very good. Okay if free, or very little money, but reputedly not a good effort. If it's an SE5a you're set on, the Eduard 1/48th kits (or the reboxing by Revell) are very good and relatively easy to build. Roden are okay if you're willing to put in more effort, but I wouldn't recommend them for a beginner. To be honest I wouldn't start with an SE5a either - the rigging isn't the most straightforward and there is a lot more of it than on a Tiggy. If it has to be Allied, then about the simplest you can get away with would be a Nieuport (a
  11. I did that manually when this all started, it's simple enough on the face of it, and when I kept getting messages to the effect that I was not a member when clicking on the Club kit button they responded very quickly and reset it all themselves. All very nice, but it had no visible effect. I then asked them if this was simply due to there being no actual content on ther relevant pages yet and was told the representative didn't know because they couldn't see what I was seeing, and she'd pass me on to the IT department. A couple of weeks passed............. .................oh, still
  12. FWIW, Blue Rider are still readily available from Hannants and, in the Netherlands, the AviationMegastore, and there are plenty of WWI subjects. The advantage of the Hannants site is that they have pictures of most of the options so you can see if what they offer fits with what you need. Both shops don't currently carry the generic cockade seta at the moment unfortunately, but doing a very quick scan they have one for British presentation Aircraft, and one for BEs. Paul.
  13. No, I knew what you meant. I think maybe I wasn't clear either. My point is that no matter how in-scale you make a strut (i.e. thin) , so long as it is strong enough to work with and then install it will almost certainly not bend under pressure unless you use through the wing structural rigging and apply too much pressure. Once you have a couple of struts suppoting a wing they become collectively suprisingly strong. It can go wrong even with kit supplied struts - I know someone who has built a couple of Wingnut kits where he overdid the tensioning, and his stuts went wobbly (but not catastroph
  14. Satay sticks are good. Very strong. To be honest, I've some from 50 years back and they're fine. Also some that have gone very brittle, as plastic sometimes does (not all plastics are equal). Lacking a functional tricorder you can't really tell in advance. One problem I've not had with plastic is sagging, though. Paul.
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