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Mig Eater

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About Mig Eater

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 12/25/1985

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  • Website URL
    http://dday.migeater.net

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eindhoven
  • Interests
    Paper Panzers, 3D modelling

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  1. Obscure AFV prototypes & what-ifs are my thing, I can probably join in with whatever I'm randomly building at the time of the GB
  2. I have a Revell Leo1 kit that I'm planning to convert to either the Jagdleopard concept design... Or the Matador prototype anti-aircraft tank, which was a competitor to the Gepard. The "Erprobungsträger mit 3-achs-stabilisiertem" prototype is on my todo list too. It was a heavily modified Leo 1 with a new experimental oscillating turret equipped with 3-axis stabilisation. Only the running gear & engine deck is the same as a Leo1 so this one would probably require scratch building/3D printing.
  3. Nice to see our host finally join us I was kinda looking forward to seeing you tackle a scratch built Ersatz M10 conversion. But It's up to you, so build whatever you feel like.
  4. Now I'm starting to get somewhere, used Mr.Surfacer stippled on to add texture & also clean up any marks/scratch, unifying the surface. Welds were added using Green Stuff 2-part putty, my tools were a bit dirty with Milliput from the last time I used them, so some flakes of it got mixed in with the green stuff. Next up is the part I've been dreading, zimmerit...
  5. The only French Panthers I've seen with zimmerite are Ausf.A models, none of the Ausf.G versions they captured had any AFAIK. Of course that's going by photos, a list of hull numbers might say otherwise.
  6. Slowly making progress, the upper & lower hull have been glued together. OOB they just clip together (so you can open it up again & change the RC batteries) & the upper hull kinda just floats around on top of the lower hull. The addition of the plastic card under the sponsons (& a lot of filler) have made it really rigid now though. So with that done I scribed welds into the front plates, I also added a 3D printed Kugelblende too (the spare one I had were from a late Jagdpanther & the wrong shape, so 3D printer to the rescue) & scribed the weld around it. One of th
  7. Nice to see the possibility of another Flakpanther in the GB
  8. The DS tracks (stands for "Dragon Styrene") are meant to work just like rubber/vinyl tracks, but they are made from a hybrid material that can be glued together with regular plastic cement. They are however notorious for becoming brittle & falling apart with age, you can often tell if they have gone bad if there is some moisture inside the plastic bag when you open it (the oil in the plastic seeps out of the material & they dry up becoming brittle). They also dont react well to any enamel paint or thinner, which will again make them brittle & fall apart. Dragon are now replacing th
  9. The images aren't working for me...
  10. Thanks, a few times I've thought to myself why am I bothering to do all this work when I could just build the Takom kit OOB instead. I want to practice scratch building more though & old kits like this are perfect for that, I'm also going to try making zimmerite for the first time & I'd prefer to do that on this one instead of an expensive Takom or Dragon kit.
  11. I've finally made some progress beyond cutting up & scribing the hull Probably the biggest problem with this kit is that the bottom of the sponsons are open, this was fixed by adding some strips of plastic card to the lower hull. It was difficult to get the measurements between the upper & lower hull perfect so it will still need some filler & sanding to get a proper fit. I also scratch build a pair of "tubs" to fit inside the hull under the air intakes on the engine deck, which are rather open & easy to see though. I dont have any photo-etch to go over the intakes or f
  12. I continue to find/make more work for myself with this build Pretty much every weld seam on the kit is either wrongly positioned or in some cases just missing, so I let my inner rivet counter lose & rescribed most of them. I haven't done the ones on the front plate yet, I'll do that after the upper & lower hull are glued together (just dry fitted for the pic) & I'm still wondering if it's worth doing the weld seams for the mortise joints on the rear of the hull & turret too... Once all the weld are scribed they will be filled with 2-part putty & the weld pattern added by
  13. You wouldn't be the first with that thought... I fear I might have derailed the topic a bit
  14. Is this the third Ersatz being built now? It's Surprising how popular this rather rare vehical is.
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