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Mig Eater

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About Mig Eater

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    http://dday.migeater.net

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eindhoven
  • Interests
    Paper Panzers, 3D modelling

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  1. The 3D model looks great, the print looks like it hasn't been cleaned thoroughly before curing though. The surface of the print should be matt & the details sharp, if it's shiny then there is/was excess liquid resin on it which can result in details being lost or smudged etc.
  2. Currently the up front cost of buying the industrial level 3D printer needed to make such moulds means that it's not a feasible production method for small companies. Such moulds dont last very long too, so depending on how many copies you want to make, the need to constantly reprint new moulds may outweigh the high initial cost of a more durable metal mould over time.
  3. I use Autodesk 3DS Max which is a polygonal based modelling program similar to Blender & Maya. It's mainly used for making special effects in films & models for computer games, which is what I originally learned to use it for. It can export SLA files though so I stuck with what I know & continued using it for 3D printing. Like Maya it cost a lot & the amount of tools/options is overkill for just simple 3D prints, so I wouldn't recommend it to any beginners.
  4. You can fill the striation lines with any sort of filler, putty or thick primer & then gently sand it down until you're happy. I personally use Mr Surfacer 500 for my prints, I use it to fill any small gaps on my models printed or otherwise. XTC 3D is a thinned down two part epoxy resin that you can brush on, it has a high-gloss finish so if you do use it I'd recommend giving it a coat of primer after to help highlight any remaining lines that could be hidden by the glossiness. Note that I've seen a lot of bad reviews of XTC 3D complaining that it's doesn't cure properly & stays sticky for a long time (I think it might be because it's thinned down with less hardener etc). So I'd be weary of using it on a project that you want to paint & weather after, I'd recommend testing it on a bit of old plastic first.
  5. As a side note a lot of the 3D models you can find on the web haven't been designed specificity for 3D printing & will need to be cut up & edited so they can be printed properly/efficiently. This boat for example if printed on an FDM printer it would need extra support material around the hull & under the seats to stop it from collapsing during the printing process, which would use up a lot of material, effect the surface quality & be a pain to remove. For the best results you'd need to print the seats & rudder as separate parts & also cut the hull in half & print it as two separate parts. Depending on the scale a resin printer would be able to print it as a single part, at larger scales though it would probably struggle with the overhang from the seats so they would need to cut out & printed separately.
  6. Depends on the shape & size of each part, some parts would scale fine, some would need to be merged together & others would need to be redesigned. In some circumstances it might be easier to just make a completely new 3D model from scratch in the new scale. Edit: I forgot to mention in my first post but all my models are all in 1/35.
  7. I've been making 3D models for use in computer games for about 20 years & got into 3D printing about 3 years ago. Here is a collection of some of my 3D print model projects & a preview of a few 3D models that I recently made & plan to print/build in the future. Panzer IV Ausf.K 3D printed a new upper hull & turret to convert a Dragon Panzer IV Kugelblitz kit into Ausf.K paper panzer variant. T92 HMC 3D print/scratch built project I started as part of a group build but couldn't finish in time & then lost interest, will hopefully finish some day... T-55/S-75 Kit bash project that included 3D printed drive sprockets & rear mounted cable drums. K-Wagon WWI German super heavy tank, two prototypes were under construction when the war ended & soon after scraped. I've finished designing the 3D model & plan to start printing/build it early next year. Internal frame that will be printed with a plastic FDM printer, it will then be "skinned" with plastic card & then all the bolts added by hand. Smaller detailed parts that will be printed with a resin printer. PzKpfw Mauschen Early concept version of the German Maus heavy tank. The 3D model is finished & I've done a few test prints of the tracks & wheels which came out fine. Thinking of printing & building this over the Xmas holidays. Exploded view of the hull parts, most of which will be printed with a plastic FDM printer. Tracks (which are workable) wheels, suspension & sprockets, all of them will be printed in resin. Exploded view of the turret parts, will be a mixture of plastic & resin printed parts.
  8. It depends on several things, such as how big are the parts you want to print & how detailed do they need to be? Also how much work are you will to do setting it up & running/adjusting it? & are you comfortable using hazardous chemicals?
  9. First thing to note is that there are two common types of 3D printers: Plastic FDM: These printers use a solid plastic filament that the printer heats up to melting point & then extrudes out in layers to build up the part. Installation - These printers typically come in several parts that need to be assembled, but it's normally pretty simple, just a few screws & your good to go. Affordable - You can get a good FDM printer for a little as £150 now days, 1Kg of plastic filament costs around £20. Usability - Most FDM printers need to be manually levelled/adjusted before each print which can be a bit fiddly, after awhile you should be able to get the hang of it though. Quality - FDM printers can't print small details as they are limited by the size of the excretion nozzle, they also leave striation marks across the print which will need to be filled & sanded down to get a smooth surface. Workability - The plastic used in FDM printers (PLA or ABS) is harder & more ridged then the plastic used for model kits but it can be cut & sanded just the same. Longevity - As mentioned above the plastic used in FDM printers is quite hard & will keep its shape really well. One of the first things that I made with my FDM printer was a soap dish stand that has survived several years being bashed around the kitchen sink & even going in the dish washer without any problems. Resin SLA/DLP/LCD: These printers use liquid resin that is then hardened with a UV light source, normally an LED lamp or a laser beam. Installation - These printers are normally ready out of the box. Affordable - Resin printers have been going down in price a lot in the past few years & you can get a good one for around £200-300. The price of the liquid resin can vary a bit but it's normally around £50 for 1 litre. A resin printer will also require extra things like disposable gloves/masks & isopropanol. You also need a UV lamp too which will all add to the cost. Usability - The liquid resin used in these printers is toxic & needs to be handled carefully with gloves & a mask in a well ventilated room. You also need to use isopropanol to clean the excess resin off the parts after they have finished printing, the resulting IPA/resin mixture can't simply be poured down the drain too, it has to be taken to a dump that can handle chemical waste. Lastly the parts will need to be fully cured under a UV lamp before they can be used. All the extra heath & safety work needed to use a resin printer puts a lot of people off, if you're slow, careful & keep everything clean though it shouldn't be much of a problem. Quality - Resin printers so can make paper thin details & produce parts just as good, if not better then aftermarket parts. In fact now days a lot of manufactures use resin 3D prints as the masters for their parts. Workability - It can be cut & sanded just like any other type of resin. Longevity - Just like most other resin parts the prints can suffer from warping issues, especially if they haven't been cured properly. I have both Plastic & resin printers, I typically use the plastic printer for larger un-detailed parts & then use the resin printer for all the smaller more detailed parts. You can see an example of this here...
  10. Sign me up, got some Japanese projects on the to-do list, including scratch building an O-I heavy tank.
  11. Well it was just a quick edit to change them. funnily I originally used "nordGB" for the image's file names because I thought "ScandinavianGB" was to long, must have been a premonition
  12. I put together a banner if anyone is interested. & for those that are fan of a more modern minimalist style
  13. You've built the model in lightning speed, but you now have less then 48 hours left to paint & weather it
  14. There is currently a what-if speculative GB that ends in a week that covers concept & prototype stuff. There is also a proposed "46" themed GB that focuses on concept & prototypes from the end of WW2 too.
  15. There are already many "Designer" GBs suggested, the BAC proposal just a few post below this one etc.
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