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  1. That's got more turrets than a battleship! Nice work, especially the weathering. John.
  2. I can only repeat what everyone else has said. Great job all round. John.
  3. I think that the answer to that is, choice, and how badly you want that particular kit. If I see a kit which is as you've described, I'll weigh up my options, decide on how much I'll have to spend, and if I still like the look of it, then I'll buy it. If I don't, then I'll walk away. My choice. I can't speak much about aircraft, as I haven't built one for about 25 years, but when I did, most kits gave you a basic cockpit, which for a lot of people and children, is sufficient. If I wanted it to be more detailed, then I would either scratch build what was required, or buy some AM item for it. For me that's what this hobby is all about. That's why the IPMS Nationals competition has classes for OOTB, detailed and converted. It's up to the individual how far he/she wants to go with the model. Personally, I think that kit manufacturers are correct when they give you a model which isn't all singing and all dancing. The child (or for that matter, the adult) who is building his first model isn't going to want it to be too fiddly. It's getting them interested. If it's too difficult, we could be loosing a potential modeller. I hasten to add that these are just my opinions. Feel free to disagree. John.
  4. Thanks Bertie. Like minded souls, and I like where your disposable spending goes. Mine used to be the same, but both my boys are now in that great kennel in the sky. At Telford last year, I couldn't resist what was to me, a bargain. A Classy Hobby M5A1 Stuart in 1/16th scale going for £120. I offered £100 and got it. I've never spent that much before on one kit. But it looks worth it. A lot of people are spending much more than that on one model, but they don't realise it, because they're doing it on a weekly basis. I'm talking of course about "part works". My bother has built two, a U boat and the Bismark, Both cost somewhere in the region of £800-£1000. Not my cup of tea, but if it gives them enjoyment in building the model, good luck to them. John.
  5. First of all, I don't smoke, I don't drink (much), and I don't gamble. Most of my money goes either in to this money pit of a house, or on model building. I say this because mention has been made about how much one can spend on a single model ie; the kit itself, plus any add ons such as etch, resin etc., plus of course, decals. In my case, it can sometimes be two kits are used, each one costing £30-40. The add ons can sometimes double that cost, but it doesn't always stop there. Sometimes, I have no info on what I'm building (usually something IDF), so another $40 gets spent on a book. So worst cast scenario, I spend well in excess on £100 on one model. BUT......so what? Nobody has gone without food because of what I've spent. The money was mine, usually in the form of birthday/Christmas presents from family. I know that some people would throw their hands up in horror at that amount. They are probably the same people who wouldn't think twice about spending a similar sum on a pair of trainers. Which is the whole point, and that is, to each his own. The end result of my mega spend may not be a miniature masterpiece, but the chances are that I got a lot of pleasure from the build. There used to be a bit of snobbery/one upmanship at model shows in the 80's. Competition entries were supposed to be anonymous at one particular show, but it was a widely known thing that certain entrants used to write their entry cards so that they could be easily identified, and lo and behold, they always won. But when I attend the Nationals at Telford now, I don't think that I have ever come across any snobbery. @Mr T I have to take exception with something that you said regarding scratch built models (unless of course, I misunderstood the point that you were making). At SMW, scratch built models are in their own class, so you won't have an OOTB model going up against a scratch built one. But I agree with you about the 80's in general. There were a lot of modellers who thought that the gold medal was theirs by right. I'm glad to say that things have moved on considerably since then. People build models for many reasons, and to my way of thinking, that's how it should be. Whatever floats your boat. I build for the pleasure that it gives me. I enter competitions for the same reason. I also try to make my models as best as they can be. Why? Because sometimes, I have the build published in a magazine. And that also pleases me, because I get paid money. Money which goes into the modelling pot to be spent on more models. And so the carousel continues to turn. John.
  6. Many thanks to all for the feedback. I really do appreciate it, so much so that I am going to change the tracks, and hope that I still retain my sanity at the end of it. Now if I can just get that damned barn roof finished, it'll allow me to get on with more important jobs, such as those tracks. See when they're done. John.
  7. Only those who've not yet been measured up for their straight jackets. I'll probably keep picking away at the tracks, at the same time as spraying the model and getting everything else finished. It'll take some time, but I'll get there in the end. Again, thanks for the feedback Matt. John.
  8. You're turning out some great models just lately. Very nice Pz4, and the figures look excellent. John.
  9. Excellent work all round. That white wash cammo really looks good. Nice one. John.
  10. Very nice little vignette. Telegraph poles haven't changed much over the last 70 years. They're still like that here. John.
  11. Mask or freehand, it really looks the poodles privates. The whole thing is already looking as though it's spent the last 70 years on a beach. Great work Matt. John.
  12. Just reading through this thread and there is some absolutely fabulous work been done. It's made me realise just how much detail there is in this scale. I'll have to bear that in mind when I make a start on my 1/16th Stuart. Nice work. John.
  13. Thanks for that Matt. I appreciate your feedback. Yes the rod definitely needs rubbing down. This was the second piece that I've done. I've already rubbed the first piece down and it looks much better. As for the top run, I was hoping to get away with leaving them as they are, and that they wouldn't be able to be seen, but I think that you're right. They are going to be noticeable. Seeing as those first two sections took me about 2 hours to complete. it looks as though I have a few hours work ahead of me. Thanks again Matt, John.
  14. Finally (apart from the Hauler etched brass), I added the VVSS units, drive sprockets and idlers. My original intention had been to paint them separately, but in the end I changed my mind and glued everything in place, ready for the paint shop. There is one aspect of this build, which has been for me, the elephant in the room, ie; the tracks. This tank was fitted with steel chevron T54E1 tracks. Unfortunately, the track in the Hobbyboss kit are T48, rubber chevron, as are the ones in all of the Tamiya Sherman kits. I had a set of T54E1 resin tracks from Gasoline, but as I said earlier in the thread, they are fitted with duckbills, and the quality is dubious. I found another set online, but again fitted with duckbills. I tried removing them, but the end connectors snapped off with them. So it was over to plan B.......fabricate them. I started with the T48 link and length from the Tamiya kit and removed the chevrons by rubbing them on coarse wet and dry. The first idea was to make a jig and bend 10 amp fuse wire to shape and super glue the pieces in place. No good. The next (and final) method was to us 20thou rod for the chevrons. I won't go into the ins and outs of how I made the chevrons, but suffice it to say, Slaters rod is very bendable. So far, I've made up just two sections. The idea is to make new sections for the parts of the tracks which are the most obvious ie; the front, around the sprocket, and the rear, around the idler. The rest, (which hopefully won't be too obvious) will be made up from unaltered Tamiya T48 track. So this is the sequence. First up, Tamiya's T48 track..........and with the rubber chevrons removed. Last part is with the plastic rod “metal” chevrons added. The question is (and I'd appreciate some feed back here), does this last one look like, or at least, could it pass for, T54E1 track? Thanks for any comments. John.
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