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dromia's Achievements

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  1. Moving to "acrylics" will still need the same respiratory protection as you use with enamels. Water based "acrylics" may not smell as bad as enamels or be as toxic but they do create aerial particles that means an extraction fan and a particulate mask are still needed. Combine that with the weaknesses of "acrylic" as a paint compared to enamels as has been described above and for me at least there is no gain in using "acrylics" and much to be gained by using enamels especially with the advent of good odourless enamel thinners like those sold by Colourcoats, I use Naphtha for cleaning and some thinning which is cheap when bought by the gallon this again has little smell so they don't disturb the domestic harmony. I started using Aeromaster "acrylics" when they first appeared in the 90s and felt then that they had some merit but left the hobby shortly afterwards. On getting back into it again a few years ago I went with "acrylics" for the first year but was so disappointed with their performance that I reverted to my enamels and have never looked back. They can be made to work as many "acrylic" painted examples on here testify but the faff on to get something almost as good as enamels to me just wasn't worth the effort or expense. I do however use from time to time Stynlrez primer, if all "acrylics" were like this then that would be a step change for them. Stynlrez is sold re-labeled by UMP as the Ultimate primer and by AK as One Shot.
  2. I have ordered one of each, been longing for a flea kit for years and the Aeroclub kit is very elusive and sells for funny money when they do appear. There is a photo etch example which I wouldn't touch being photo etch adverse. I have ordered these with a little trepidation as cyanoacrylates are the work of the devil and will not be used by me so quick cure epoxy will be my route, the construction seems simple enough, famous last words, but the site says that the resin is brittle so getting pieces free from their tress could be fraught.
  3. Aye I have the same image which I don't find very helpful in relation to the items on the sheet. Peering at the photo there would seem to be a lot of redundant transfers on the sheet.
  4. I have the the Kits-World (yes I know their 3D transfers are just as bad as their 2D ones) ejection seat set for the Phantom. Par for the course with this company there are no placement instructions for the items on the sheet. Some like the handles are obvious but the belts are a nightmare, I have gone goggle eyed trying to compare that which is on the seat in photographs with the items on the transfer sheet and am still none the wiser as to what bit goes where. I am using them on Tamiya's 1/48 scale F-4B. Anyone solved this Gordian knot of a problem. I know there are other routes that are easier but the kit ejection seats have come up nice and some seat belts would set them off and the Kits-World is what I have to hand. Finding good decipherable images of how seat belts fit is a real issue I find, which is why I usually end up with resin seats with the belts moulded. I have had success with the HGW belts in 1/32 scale but they are too fiddly for me in 1/48 but I like the look of the separate belts. I used the Quinta belts on a recent build they looked well when fitted but did not like being fitted and had a propensity to break. How ever I feel that I could solve that problem with some trial and error hence my trying a Kits-World set.
  5. Any other way of knowing what this thread is about other than going facebook?
  6. My father worked there during the second great war. I like Orkney and Shetland but man they are bleak.
  7. Thank you for the templates, I have struggled for years trying to do anything with graphic software, it just sucks time out of my life without ever giving a result.
  8. Historex spares do a fine set of horse shoes.
  9. On the kit there are only two panels 'tween the forward wheel well and the radom, both of which appear isosceles trapezoid in shape with the forward panel having a more acute angle to its sides. The photograph appears to show the panel being of trapezoid shape rather than square, but that could just be focal length distortion of the camera. I would like to see that drawing you are referring to. From the drawing in Creepy Pete's link it looks like it fits into the forward panel next to the radom part R3 on the lit.
  10. Thank you all for the recommendations, Burke, McLelland and Lucas's vade mecums are currently sitting in my abebooks shopping bag. I shall wait a tad longer in case further insights on choice are forthcoming. I already have the Beaumont and the Hastings volumes, hence my focus on the aircraft rather than its political environment.
  11. Thank you for taking the time to write that comprehensive list and descriptions. How much visual overlap/repetition is their in the two McLelland volumes? Are they distinct in content bearing in mind that there is only so much that can be said about any subject. What ifs don't really interest me, what was does.
  12. Thank you for that reference, unfortunately as you say it is somewhat scarce on the ground, with rarity no doubt attracting a premium price. No doubt three will become available at bargain prices when I have completed the builds.
  13. Ciamar a tha thu. I am Sutherland by name and Sutherland by location.
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