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dromia

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About dromia

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  1. As a life long vacuum form habitue who almost exclusively built them since my first Rareplane Seversky P35 in 1969 I am gladdened to see another thread on this revered subject. Scrapers are indeed very handy in the preparation of vacuum formed parts, personally I prefer straight edged and kidney ones to the goose necked for most modelling applications, as well as the standard cabinet/fiddle maker scrapers IPMS do a nice couple of sets for modellers that I can highly recommend. A burnisher to keep the edge turned and sharp is also a good addition. My own approach to cutting and sanding is slightly different but as all things in this game there is no right nor wrong only what works for you. When removing parts after outlining the shapes I hold my blade at a 45 degree angle away from the part, this gives an inward sloped edge to the cut part and reduces the amount plastic that has to be removed. To sand the parts down to size I prefer to have at them with a coarse file, rough grit wet and dry wrapped wood blocks or "T" section aluminium with abrasives stuck on with double sided tape a la Aeroclub. This removes the excess plastic quickly, sand down to the marked line 'till a fine sliver is all that remains of the excess which can be removed by a light finger touch. This method gives me better final shape control as I find the pressure on the parts needed to sand them on a flat abrasive covered surface can lead to curving along the parts length, fuselages are especially prone to this. As always in this demesne "check fit" often, it is easier to remove than replace plastic. Finally be aware that some vacuum formed kits need the thickness of the card left in place to give correct scale thickness so they have to have excess sanded down to the part as you would flash on an injection moulded part. I suspect that this "feature" appears mainly on plagiarised kits but always best to check on the less mainstream vacuum form brands. Apologies if this is seen as high jacking the thread, it is not my intention just sharing the little I know and I make no claims to being a vacuum form/scale modelling maven.
  2. Falcon Models from New Zealand and Sanger in the UK are still producing 1/48 vacuum form model kits. Falcon Models Sanger Engineering Sanger has many of the old Contrail, Sutcliffe labelled models. Falcon are of a very high quality.
  3. I find watercolour pencils very good for cockpit and other detailing. I am a confirmed enamels user find the the multitude of different paint types that come under acrylic banner not as user friendly or as effective as enamels. In fact the whole acrylic paint thing just seems like a marketing scam so as to lock people into a certain brands product range. Now with odourless white spirit enamels even have domestic respectability. Sovereign enamels have the reputation as one of, if not the best colour matched paints currently available and are a pleasure to use.
  4. Aye 700-800 grit. I will happily remove mould lines with them followed by a steel/bronze wool buff. Vallorbe do rifflers as well which I have a selection of, I believe that they only go down to a No4 cut though. The trick is to keep your files clean especially if used on "white metal", I use those fibre glass tipped pens to keep my abrasives unclogged.
  5. I mainly have 2 and 4 cut files with flats in 0 and 6 cut for quick removal and fine polishing. The table on the bottom of page 2 of this link has file cut to ceramic grit relationship to give you a indication of cut. Vallorbe files. Like all abrasive methods they will leave "scratches" commensurate with the size of the cut just as wet and dry does. The number 6 is good enough for fine polishing in my work, after that there is crocus cloth, toothpaste, t-cut, brasso and the like. Just to add the bigger the cut number the finer the teeth and the greater the number of teeth per square inch.
  6. Vacuum formed models are my absolute favourite kits, I almost make them exclusively. I just love the whole building process, sanding, fitting, detailing the whole modelling works is involved in their realisation. I would scratch build models more but the time taken to acquire sufficient information to develop the detailed plans required is just a task to much for me as I prefer my time to be spent actually building, so vacuum formed kits are the perfect half way house for me. Once the parts are removed from the backing sheet then just look at it as a limited run model kit needing much the same skills in construction, so don't be daunted. The Rareplane kits are some of the best of the type and the Firebrand is a good example for a first build, scratch building and the spares box can help with things like engines, propellers and undercarriages, although I often use the vacuum parts provided again because of the work involved in making them. John Adams ex Aeroclub produced good how to sheets on vacuum formed kit building and I seem to recall there is an electronic version on this site somewhere . Building and Improving Vacuum-Formed Model Aircraft by E Richard Staszak, Kalmbach Books is another very helpful resource but I suspect hard to get nowadays as being long out of print. Get stuck in and you will have lots of fun, its just a sheet of plastic after all
  7. dromia

    Which Primer?

    I have found it needs to be sprayed close up and laid down "wet" over an initial mist coat to give it a "key". If you get too far away it dries before covering and consequently can be powdery, granular and lack adhesion. I am not an "acrylic fan", in the many differing paint types that attract the moniker. Stynylrez however is the exception, evidently it is a polyurethane "acrylic", which works as an excellent primer for my beloved enamels. I lay it down though my Aztek airbrush, turquoise (nominal 0.5mm) nozzle at a high, for me, 20psi. I buy the 32oz bottles to ensure I have plenty to hand. No issues and I clean up with isopropyl alcohol.
  8. dromia

    Which Primer?

    Badger Stynylrez has surprised me with its efficacy, sprays, sticks and sands well. The ultimate primer is Stynylrez with a mark up for the re-labelling. I get mine from here: Stynylrez.
  9. If you are looking for good sable paint brushes then give AS Handover a look. They have an excellent range (not just sable) and are my paint brushes of choice. Their sables have the best points I have ever used, well bodied and long to hold paint, keep their point and shape. They are the longest lasting brushes I have. AS Handover.
  10. "Such things are ultimately personal in explanation and this means that different makes and their characteristics will no doubt hold different appeal to different people hence the plethora of makes and models on the market, such choice we are told can only be good for the customer."
  11. Thank you for your insight, the more I speak with users the PS770 is consistently praised. My Efbe B1 fixed with its nominal 0.2mm needle is the same as your Olympos it can spray very fine lines indeed but needs very finely pigmented colourings.
  12. I admire your H&S proselytising and hope that your vigorous championing of the brand brings you many sales. As I have previously stated in this thread my own experiences with H&S have not been good finding them fiddly, agricultural and ergonomically awkward to use. The Iwata's to me are infinitely superior airbrushes and well worth the extra expense in the pleasure that using them gives, I always approached using my H&S airbrush with a distinct lack of relish and invariably reverted to using my trusty Efbe's so the H&S sat unused and unloved even although I diligently applied my self to using it and trying to over come my negative issues with it. When I finally bought the Iawata HP-CH I was astounded that there could be so much difference 'tween brushes seeing as they are fundamentally similar tools that only appear different in details, I am still intrigued as to why such a difference and can only assume that it is the cumulative effect of the details that builds into such a striking difference. To me just holding an Iwata is a pleasure whereas holding my H&S just felt awkward, cumbersome and plain not right. Even although it worked as advertised and successfully laid down paint. I have Aztek, Badger and Efbe brushes on my bench as well as my Iwata and enjoy using them all, the H&S however did not "sing" to me like the others do and so it went. What this does tell me is that most quality airbrushes will do the job within their specifications and in laying down paint they all do it well enough. Airbrushes are just a tool at the end of the day but like all tools finding one that gives you pleasure in its use as well as doing the job turns what can be a chore into a joy. Such things are ultimately personal in explanation and this means that different makes and their characteristics will no doubt hold different appeal to different people hence the plethora of makes and models on the market, such choice we are told can only be good for the customer. Cost is also a factor and extra quality/feel benefits may not justify extra cost to some users. Standardisation is indeed a plus factor to me in an airbrush line, or anything else for that matter, but that in and of itself is not sufficient to overcome the qualities lacking I found with H&S airbrushes. I am sure that many people will enjoy using H&S brushes to ensure you sales into the future, however this airbrush user will not be one of them, having drunk of that particular "Kool-Aid" and found it wanting.
  13. Yes, standardisation is something that modern manufacturers in all things seem to avoid in their ever increasing drive to get us to consume in an excess that is grossly unsustainable. Built in, real time, obsolescence seems the only standard in modern manufacturing, god forbid that anyone would wish to repair, reuse or adapt a product. Such a subversive anathema to profit should surely not be permitted. I suspect that it will not fit as the CM-B looks to be an overall smaller airbrush than the HP-CH, I shall enquire of the retailer though, as they say in the vernacular "shy bairns get nowt"!
  14. Thank you for sharing that. It is as I hoped and expected but reassuring to have it confirmed by direct experience. I much prefer enamels to other paints and would rather not have to adopt another, although cellulose type paints are not too far away so may experiment with some MRP when I acquire the airbrush. However I prefer my paint not to dry off too quickly, enamels have the qualities and drying time I seek. Paint/thinner ratios are not a problem as I would develop my own with through trial. I know that such a finely nozzled brush will need well thinned paint. My query was the suitability of enamel pigment size, as if too large to spray then no amount of thinning would alter that. My airbrushing technique has always been up close and narrow, preferring the control that spraying at lower pressure and volume gives and the consequent variation of finish that such an approach allows. I like to cover by applying a series joined up "mottles" with paint going on slowly to give me time to see, react, control the paint build up and finish whilst avoiding flooding and over spray. Hence my desire for the finest airbrush, in spray and in quality, that I can get commensurate with it being able to use my paint of preference. The Procon Creos PS-770 is still under consideration as I find the handle cut out on my Iwata Hi-Line HP-CH a very practical feature enabling a good needle/nozzle clean 'tween colours without removing the handle or needle. I must enquire about whether the Hi-Line HP-CH handle will fit the CM-B, that configuration would be my "ultimate" airbrush. The MAC valve and overall larger size of the PS-770 are its detracting features for me. I suspect that I will end up acquiring both models. Thank you to all who have posted for sharing your opinions, experience and insight.
  15. If you use your normal search engine and put britmodeller after that which you seek then it will search the forum rather than using the forum search function.
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