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dromia

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About dromia

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  1. I have the same, well almost my half mask is a 7502. Use the same 6051 vapour & particulate filters. Got it 10Years ago for my lead casting but has worked well at the spray booth too, seals particularly well and I have a beard, with it on you will smell nothing which is a good sign. Well made except for the strap clip which is really fiddly and awkward to use and invariably tufts of hair come away when putting the damned thing on and off. Seems to be a modern thing but "quality" products always seem to be spoilt for the ha'porth 'o' tar. Suppose it is th
  2. Depending on the canopy I either use the thin strip out line and back fill with liquid mask my preferred mask being Copydex or Parafilm which needs not back filling. For me using Copydex invariably needs a tape out line to keep the shape but that is as much my shaky hands with an applicator, I have use it successfully on flat landing lights where there has been a good moulding edge for me to fill into. Personally I don't find any masking easy, my greatest asset in this technique is my Optivisor and a steady hands free mount for the canopy.
  3. Just to update, when I checked this morning the satin galleria sprayed as described above was dry to touch and had as nice and even satin finish as one should expect. This stuff has good self levelling properties from my experience and definitely doesn't need thinning for any application I might be using it for.
  4. Thank you for the explanation. What is it with these computer people and their unintelligible hieroglyphs, how on earth does three dots mean edit?!?!?!?! To me three dots means the letter "S". After being an early internet adopter it is no wonder I am on a trajectory to reduce my use to nothing, the whole internet and the digital world has gone to hell on a hurley.
  5. To clarify it is the Galleria that I normally spray at around 25psi through a Creos PS-290 with a .5mm needle as I am usually covering large areas. Sorry for the extra post but the edit button has disappeared, must be an up grade casualty.
  6. Just as a test I have just put some satin, it was the first to hand through my Iwata Custom Micron-B (.18mm needle) at 9psi, air volume valve just open. Which is my normal setting for that air brush for enamels. The Galleria went through the brush just fine, good atomisation, leaving a nice even wet coat. So that would indicate that perhaps thinning is not as necessary as might be postulated. Normally I spray at around 25psi through a Creos PS-290 with a .5mm needle as I am usually covering large areas. It behaves almost like a clear Stynylrez in
  7. The W&N instructions say nothing about thinning, just apply in thin coats. Clean equipment with water.
  8. I find the "P" cutter fine if you want to scribe a WW1 trench system, the Tamiya looks suspiciously like the Olfa, however if it uses thinner blades it should be fine. As has been said razor saws for the convex curves again I find the RB ones to me excellent and prefer them over the JLC for use, range flexibility and price.
  9. I use the W&N Galleria "varnishes" and find them excellent with none of the problems described. I do not thin them and pour direct from the bottle into the cup. Spray as though 'twas Stynylrez and you should be fine at least this is with my experience. Galleria "varnish" is not harmed by my transfer setting and solvent solutions, white vinegar in water and Solvaset, IPA will remove it promptly though.
  10. Sorry misread your post. My favourite scriber is the RB productions one followed by the Bare Metal one
  11. IPMS do an excellent couple of sets for modellers at a friendly price, however I suspect that one would need to be a member to acquire. Cabinet makers scrapers and edging burrs are available from various internet woodworking sources, I prefer the kidney or goose necked one.
  12. I am assuming that it is the enamel thinners you are referring to, if not ignore my post as it is in the context of enamels. Most artist suppliers do odourless white spirit such as W&N. Just like the modelling packaged brands they are extremely over priced for what they are. I did try some Bird brand DIY shop odourless thinners but for some reason it clotted some enamels, strange as you can almost use nails to thin enamels usually. Nahptha (lighter fuel) is quiet low odour and very cheap, I buy by the gallon. It dries a bit faster than normal
  13. I just used some LP11 over a dark brown primer on some 1/32 propeller blades this morning and it sprayed well thinned a tad more than 50/50 with lacquer thinners, unbranded industrial cellulose thinner that I use. Went down well with even coverage, finish is even and smooth, it looks like silver paint rather than a metal finish but that is a common "feature" of most metallics. The copydex is drying and I will be spraying the colour later, the LP11 should be a good base coat but has no colour improvements over my normal enamel metallics, just dries a tad quicker.
  14. Copydex is just a latex glue, most of the "arts" liquid masks are similar stuff, I don't use them as copydex is easier to find and loads cheaper. You surely must have similar products in Hungary just not called the same. Any household cleaner with ammonia in it would be worth a try, the stuff I have is as I say only 10% ammonia, plain water might also work just I haven't tried it as I tried the ammonia first and it worked and I have loads of it so never tested further. Just checked the label and it says wet clean up is with plain water so that should work for thining.
  15. My favourite chipping medium is copydex, thinned with a little 10% household ammonia. Very good for targeted applications and just rubs off easily when painted. I usually apply with various sponges and a cocktail stick depending on what I want. I like the hairspray for very fine wear rather than chipping where I lightly sand the colour coat both wet and dry depending on the effect that I am seeking.
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