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RC Boater Bill

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About RC Boater Bill

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    Derry, New Hampshire, USA

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  1. I tried using Micro Crystal Clear to make a trial fuselage window- didn’t like how it came out at all. So on to “Plan B”. I thought I’d try making some windows out of clear acrylic sheet. I have some 2.5mm thick leftovers from a display case I made- it is just about the same thickness as the resin fuselage sides. I’m a member of our local Maker Space, so this morning I popped over there to use the laser cutter. It only took about 15 min to cut a bunch of perfectly square little 7mm pieces. I think I’ll try mixing some flat black paint into some canopy glue to install them- the hop
  2. Sign me up! I have just started parts cleanup on an old Revell 1/72 Sikorsky HH-3E. I’ll be using the Air Graphic Models conversion to make it into a US Coast Guard HH-3F Pelican. It is a fairly simple conversion- delete the refueling probe, add a nose radar, modify the sponsons, new tail rotor, add the FOD shield in front of the engine intakes.
  3. Doing more test fitting with the parts, it seems that if I use the cockpit floor in the nose, and the cabin floor aft, that it properly sets the fuselage sides at the correct width. This leaves me with a wedge-shaped gap from zero at the aft end to about 2mm at the bow*. The idea of making a long, curved wedge/shim out of styrene doesn’t appeal to me- getting the taper just right would be a challenge. The cockpit floor is a thick, sturdy piece. I’m thinking I could glue the fuselage together, joining the parts at the aft end directly, and using the cockpit floor
  4. OK, first goof made. I was test fitting the hull halves, and noticed the mating edges weren’t quite true. So I taped some sandpaper to a flat surface and sanded them a little to true them up. I think I was a little over zealous, as now the cockpit floor is too wide. I was about to sand it down a little so it would fit, when it occurred to me I should check to see if it is really the floor or the hull that is off. A quick check with the canopy tells me that the floor is right- the hull needs to be wider. Guess I’ll need some styrene strips to fatten up the hul
  5. I have started work on the kit, giving everything a bath, and cutting the larger parts off the pour stubs. Here are the main fuselage pieces. The windows were filled in with a very thin skin of resin. I had cut a few away before I saw the note in the instructions that implied they could have been left in place if I didn’t want to glaze the windows later. (Too late, but wouldn’t have done that anyways!) The windows are about 9-10mm square- I guess I will need to figure out what to do to fill them! I’m not sure that the PVA canopy cement glazing trick will work on suc
  6. Thanks! That lilac-trimmed one seems to generate the most questions. I hadn’t seen one like that before, either, until I found this for Rudolph Stark, Jasta 34b: https://www.google.com/search?q=rudolf+stark+fokker+dr.1+jasta&client=safari&hl=en-us&ei=p9d8YLjfEO3s_QaFjpm4BA&oq=rudolf+stark+fokker+dr.1+jasta&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAMyBwghEAoQoAE6BAgAEB46AggpOgUIIRCgAToFCCEQqwI6BggAEBYQHlC3UFj_pgFgqasBaABwAHgAgAG7AYgBxRSSAQQyMC43mAEAoAEBwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp#imgrc=Af1zj-C10HFDtM I know the above link is from a flight s
  7. I’m new to the GB thing... I just joined my first one recently- the Anything but Injected build that is underway now. The resin model I selected also qualifies for the “Unarmed” build that is starting up. Is it bad form to post the same build in both threads?
  8. Count me in! I’m building a collection of colorful 1/72 WW1 fighters, I’ve got 4 more Eduard Dr.1s in the stash still to do, plus two more Eduard D.VIIs yet to do....
  9. One minor correction: the US Coast Guard is Military, not Civil....
  10. What does the highlight color in some of the cells signify? (There’s no key or explanation...)
  11. You might get more help if you post this in the WW2 forum.....
  12. I corresponded with Roger before I bought a couple of kits and other bits from him last year. (I bought the HH-52 and the Dragonfly kits. ) I was very impressed with him, and even more so with the product!
  13. I did clean out the local hobby shop of their Evergreen grooved decking a couple of times! Model is RC, hull is fiberglass over balsa. Hangar/flight deck is foam core board ( to minimize topside weight), skinned with sheet styrene. Catwalks, galleries, island, etc made from .020 sheet styrene and lots of little bits of strip, tube, half round, etc. I know I’m way off topic here, but here’s one last image: a 10 second video showing the animated elevator in action:
  14. I dove into the kit box a little deeper, and it is as “Whirly” said: The rotor blades are made from a special black material, and not from the same (traditional) resin material as the rest of the kit. I also have the Unicraft resin kit of the HH-52– I got it a few years before the Whirlybird kit was released. It isn’t quite as nice, so I figure I’ll do the nicer WB kit as my (first-ever) resin build for this GB. When I built my Italeri HH-19 model a couple of years ago, it had been OOP for some time. I bought a two kit bundle on ebay- one complete, one only missing
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