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TonyW

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TonyW last won the day on June 14

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About TonyW

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  1. That really does look good in that scheme. The extra work in the cockpit was certainly worth it as well. Just adding those side consoles makes the whole area really come to life. Tony.
  2. Anything Lakenheath connected gets my vote as, along with Mildenhall, it's my local air base. Their F15's were out making noise today in fact. I would have loved to have seen the B36's flying for real but your build will be a perfectly adequate substitute. Tony.
  3. Good choice! The size of the thing will make it stand out for sure. Any idea of a colour scheme yet?
  4. As Dave says, the '55 or '56 time frame isn't that important. The RAF had them in service then, so they fit perfectly regardless of when the kit came out. Lines/Hellstrom give 1955 as the release year. RAF Sabres look a bit odd to me, along with Washingtons. Such pure US shapes in roundels are very eye catching.That makes them first class modelling fodder though. The one on Ebay is priced strongly, and I think you would be better off leaving that one to the collectors. It's only original once. A beat up boxed one, or a restorer would be a different matter. That's only my opinion though, for what it's worth. The FROG kit is pretty rare in either of its two boxes, it's almost as if FROG were ashamed of a US aircraft being used in the front line RAF. The Javelin and DH110, for example, soldiered on far longer. Then there's the kit itself. I think it looks every inch a Sabre, if you look past the huge rivets all over it! The toolmaker who did the Shackleton monsters probably started his apprenticeship on the Sabre. Here's a built one. I've left the rivets and other heavy detailing alone as I like out the box builds for really old kits. The same goes for the solid cockpit and wheelwells. It's a very basic kit! Having said that, it was an enjoyable restoration of a near scrap kit and I'm happy to have it. If you smoothed it over and corrected its no doubt many faults it wouldn't be the same kit anymore, that's my opinion. Your mileage may differ. Tony.
  5. The prototype Vulcan first flew on the day I was born. Guess what plane I'll be joining that GB with? To answer the point Chris makes, there were a ton of kits available over here and in the USA before, during and after the war. Ditto references and even an aftermarket. The kits were mainly wood although FROG released the first all plastic Penguin kits prior to WW2. There were models available right from the first days of real flight. Here's a Chingford Model Aerodrome Pfalz in 1.48 scale, alongside a 1942 Thetford reference book. And here's the companies Battle, in nostalgic B+W, sat on my workbench accompanied by yet more period references. FROG kits were a major step forward with most parts all ready to go, here's the Wellesley in all its glory... The Aeroplane weekly and the Aircraft of the Fighting Powers book series had loads of different model companies advertising in them. I doubt a full on Group Build for these type of kits would ever get off the ground but it would be fantastic if one did!
  6. A beautiful looking model. The drop tanks and rocket pods really do take things to a different level. I'm used to looking at the first issue FROG version, your take on the later one blows the old model right out the water! Tony.
  7. Very fine modelling. It could comfortably pass for 1.48 scale.
  8. Pretty as a picture. The B+W shot is especially nice. The Anson is a friendly looking plane, even in its fighting clothes. Your Civil version suits it down to the ground.
  9. It took three hot/cold cycles to get the Spitfire fuselage nice and flat. The wings went along for the ride and are also straight now. So far, so good. The port fuselage side is fine, the starboard has a bit of a bannana going on, with the nose rising somewhat. A bit more worrying is the different lengths of each half! From the tail to the cockpit, everything is fine. The two cowl areas don't meet at the prop though! I need to get both halves in line with each other first, then see how to start joining them. Logic says fit the tail together as far as the cockpit and then start the hot and cold treatment to get the cowl in line. That does leave a short nose though. If I start at the nose and then try to move things about at the tail end I'm likely to hit fit issues around the rudder area. The thinner plastic at the tail end will be easier to re-shape though. I'm leaning toward fixing the tail first, as the plan further up in the thread shows the nose in green. That may well come in handy if I need to extend the nose area, filler will be hidden by the cammo. I'll be matching the plane up to the Aircraft of the Fighting Powers plan and deciding how to continue from there. Onward and Upward! Tony.
  10. That really is a top notch bit of modelling going on there. The finish looks pretty much perfect to me. It would look stunning on an early, round FROG stand, but then I would say that, wouldn't I?
  11. Briefly might be a problem! In a nutshell, you take the part you want to copy and pour a silicon rubber mould around it. Once the part is removed from the mould you fill the void with two part resin. Once that is cured you have your copy part! It starts getting a bit more involved when dealing with undercuts, air bubbles, two and three part moulds and so on.
  12. The Spitfire returns! The restoration proper started this morning after my Blenheim build hit a wall. The canopy framing on that one was starting to wear me down, so as a change of pace and scenery I thought I would get back on the Spitfires case. Here's the kind of warping that is all too common with old Penguin kits... ... this one's not too bad at all! One way to remove the warping, and the method I like, is to clamp the parts to a bit of metal and sit the thing on a radiator for a few hours. The hot bar and kit parts are then put in the freezer for an hour or two and the process repeated as often as it takes to straighten the parts. The rudder is cast as one part on the port side and so sticks out a bit, preventing the port fuselage half clamping flat as it is. The solution is to use a bit of thin brass butted against the rudder to bring things flush This can now be clamped to another bit of heavier metal and the heating/cooling cycle started. The starboard side just needs clamping as it's all flat on the joining edge. Next up will be the wings. They need a bit of flattening to get them usable. There is also a sink mark on each top surface caused by the wheel well on the undersides. It's possible perhaps to heat and push the wing well back into flatness but I've checked the plan showing the cammo, and both sunken topside areas are painted green. This means I can get away with a bit of filler here, which will speed things up a lot. I'll be trying to keep the brown plastic areas as they are, with no paint. Factory built models came this way and the colour is quite distinctive, you can spot a Penguin build quite easily this way. To keep things in period I'm going to follow suit. There's a possibility that I wont be able to finish the kit in bare plastic to a high enough standard if filler is needed at the wing roots for instance. If that happens, the brown areas will get painted. More as it happens.... Tony.
  13. I've just taken delivery of a pair of built FROG V Bombers for repair and renovation. Probably built up to much for the GB, I thought I would add them here anyway. They are not exactly common! Recent Ebay buys, I'm really happy to have them. Nice enough builds, although the cammo is a bit thick and the green looks somewhat dark to me. I'll have a think about what to do here. Keeping things period is nice, but I'm not against a new paintjob if it improves the model without removing all its age. The undersides are part painted on each. I'll either repaint or remove whats there. The FROG white plastic polishes up good enough to get away with no paint here. Neither plane has serials underwing. I'll be needing to sort that out as well. Both planes need undercarriage parts replacing. Only one gear leg and wheel set is present on each plane. I can use whats there to cast the needed replacements, so that's no big deal. All in all a nice little project that will see me with a couple of good looking models once the necessary work is done. Tony.
  14. Looks like I spoke too soon here, the end is not in sight. Three attempts so far at getting the canopy framing somewhere near right have all ended in failure. There's no room for error as the nose is probably the focal point of the model. It has to be right. The problem is the number of frames needed in such a tiny space! My chosen method of using Tamiys tape to mask out individual frames is not working too well. Colour is creeping under the tape, I'm laying out different thickness's and sometimes in the wrong place. I've put the model to one side for a bit, it was starting to do my head in. Not to worry, I'll come back to it before the end of the GB. Meanwhile, I've dug out the Penguin Spitfire for a bit of attention instead. That one will be getting its thread bump started today. Tony.
  15. Here's four of the Remus reissued FROG kits. There were also a Spitfire and P51B as well as the Ta152 in a blister pack similar to the Airfix effort. There may well have been more.
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