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Maritime Content

Showing topics in Historic Vessels to 1914, WWI to 1939, WWII, Cold War to 1990, Modern, Work in Progress - Maritime, Ready for Inspection - Maritime, General Maritime modelling chat, Kits, Aftermarket and Reference Material posted in for the last 365 days.

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  1. Today
  2. British four-masted barque

    Hi Lars, Thanks, but I was not looking for kits, I meant that very few modellers scratchbuild them, or are even interested in them! I never build kits of anything, not having the money, space, time, patience etc that is required. Plus I prefer the freedom of being able to build anything I want, subject to finding the plans. And as there are far more plans of merchant ships around than warships, it is ideal, and I don't normally build warships anyway, although I have done the odd one. This is my model of the Preussen, built from bits and pices. The masts, spars and all the rigging are metal, the rigging being fine copper wire. The model took just over 100 hours, spread over a few weeks, and that included making the display case and carrying case. Bob
  3. revell U.S.S. Constitution scale?

    There are 3 Revell Constitution kits; I have them all in my attic. When I was a schoolboy in the 1960's, there was the small one (even 1:180 might be an over-estimation) with the President Jackson figurehead, & the big, beautiful 1:96 one. Somewhere along the line, they tooled a third one that is about 1:146. It is nicely shaped & molded, but only has main battery guns for the 6 ports in the waist on either side, closed gun ports for the rest & other unfortunate simplifications. Other than that, it is miles ahead of the small one, which has a blocky, peculiar underwater shape. Cheers, -Lars
  4. That is a ridiculously small scale for a sailing ship kit...though I admit some might say the same of even 1:150. The copper plates look like stacks of gold bricks & those injection-molded furled sails just look...odd...like they were done by someone who has never even seen drapes. Besides, Victory has been done in tiny scales before; Revell is just dithering here. This kit will be met by all the enthusiasm it deserves & the bean-counters will conclude that sailing ship kits just don't sell. Sigh.
  5. Rigging of ships

    Hi KP, The books of that sort that I have in my library tend to focus on just one period, show all the spars & none of the rigging, or prove frustrating in some other way. My best rigging references are sailing ship picture books, filled with contemporary art of each period discussed, found on the cheap in used book stores. I've been at this for years so have a nice library shelf or 2 full of the genre. Soliel Royal will have some seriously antique details, what looks like a maze of useless rope even to a modern sailor, while Thermopylae's rig wouldn't be far different from the sail training ships still afloat. There's one here titled "The Lore of Ships" published originally by AB Nordbok & printed in England by Crescent Books in 1975. It has only line drawings, but seems to include many details from many periods. After searching high & low, I found the main yard sling detail I was looking for in there... Cheers, -Lars
  6. British four-masted barque

    Hi Bob, The only plastic kits I can think of off-hand are Heller's 1:150 Passat, Pruessen & a very small-scale Nippon Maru from Japan...none of which is likely to be in production at the moment.... Love your small-scale work, BTW. Cheers, -Lars
  7. Newby question on rigging

    Hi Peter, For rigging thread, working in 1:150 or thereabouts, I've been using thread bought from sewing sections in variety stores, but I pick through & look for the ones with the least fuzz. Black button & upholstery thread is good for shrouds & stays, shades of tan regular sewing thread for running rigging: more yellow-golden for new "hemp" & grey-ish tans for more weathered rigging. For lines meant to hang slack, like the sheets & tacks of a lower sail hauled up "in it's gear" (how they're often molded in kits), or the weather sheets of jibs, I'll use stretched sprue or painted wire. Footropes (another thing that would normally be tarred) seem to work best on thin black annealed wire, with stretched sprue "stirrups" between footropes & yards. I've been cheating on the ratlines at these scales, super-gluing black stretched sprue to the shrouds. Even on running rigging, only the lines that actually run through blocks or fairleads are generally not tarred. Pendants for yard braces, jib sheets & such were & are usually tarred. Blocks on this Airfix Endeavour were made by sliding pieces of thick brown stretched sprue up between running parts of lines & CA-ing them against the pendants, then snipping off the excess. With care, only one end of each bit needs trimming: -Newbie Myself, here
  8. 1:147 HMS Surprise

    Thanks All, ...& a big "Thank You", Mike! I'll just be "eyeballing" the rig on Surprise, with casual attention to Marquardt's sail plans & probably more attention to Geoff Hunt's paintings...& this rig looks more contemporary with the kit's design as molded (circa 1760's-70's) than the Napoleonic wars...but it's certainly interesting to see a comparison of this sort, even if it doesn't show "the cut of his jib"! The kit, BTW, doesn't come with royal yards or sails, but they were often taken down so I'm not going to worry about that, either. Cheers, -Lars
  9. Yesterday
  10. Having incorporated info on the mainmast from the Intrepid plans (as above), the revised FS 82 mainmast looks better - I was already slightly concerned that the mystery defunct radar platform was too high before, and I was right. Better now, though: Since then I have been working my way aft, adding the Seacat directors and a launcher (the other one is invisible behind part of the superstructure from port), the whip aerials on Flyco roof (which were lowered to horizontal in action - that's what the dotted line over Flyco is about) and starting to fill in the area round the Cheverton (boat) and F8 LCVP:
  11. HMS Fife by Kevin - Fleetscale - 1/72

    Good evening everyone what have i done this weekend Well i taught myself how to solder, (very badly though), but i am sure i can get better i wanted to sort the lighting out in the hanger so i used two brass strips as the connections and proceeded to attach the positive and negitives to seperate sides but with that came a load of failures, did some damage to parts i wasn't working on but nothing is lost and can be replaced, 3mm Leds for the white lighting and led strips for the red, both have there own power source and are both remote control this was a failure as i had to much wire and to many were crossing each other, so as a result the hanger roof didnt fit reverse side before a tidy up red lighting not so in your face
  12. HMAS/m AE2, Scratchbuild

    Nice work on the base, it already looks very effective.
  13. USS Guam CB-2. 1:350

    Yeah, but we're talking about Trumpeter here Chris. Lol!
  14. New Ship Related Releases

    The Yamashita Fubuki's are well regarded by Model Warship's resident 1/700 IJN modelling expert, so it's a nice bonus to have! thanks Mike
  15. USS Guam CB-2. 1:350

    Found this link for Guam plans https://www.super-hobby.com/products/USS-Guam-CB-2.html And for Alaska Https://www.super-hobby.com/products/USS-Alaska-CB-1-20194526.html
  16. New Ship Related Releases

    Looks like Flyhawk will be getting a chunk of my money then! As for the Aoshima HMS Exeter, the boxart appeared a little while ago over on HobbySearch: LINK. The first boxing will bundle in a Yamashita Hobby Inuzama (Batch III Special Type/Fubuki) as that ship rescued survivors from Exeter. The kit image shows that more detail has been added compared with the first shots: LINK. I might actually get this when it comes out as I've wanting to get the Yamashita Hobby Special Type Batch III's. There will be those who won't like the boxart, but it's in the same vein as the first releases of the Aoshima's Ark Royal, Hermes and Wasp kits. Mike.
  17. 1:147 HMS Surprise

    Excellent work so far Lars! I hope this image is of some use to you: It's a comparison of the size of the rig between Venetian, French and British 74s which I suspect is from this book: Das Erbe der Serenissima from Verlag Militaria. Admittedly it's for ships of the Third Rate, but I would guess that the proportions wouldn't be too dissimilar for the smaller classes. Mike.
  18. Tamiya 1/350 IJN Yamato

    Wow! Some serious detail and amazing finish!
  19. Fantastic build, so much detail. Im going to have a go at modelling ships this year, and this is a masterclass example of how to do it!
  20. Welcome to my world. I won't say how many times I've remade some of those parts to get them just right. John
  21. HMAS/m AE2, Scratchbuild

    wow again. I liked the North Sea look but the tropical version looks pretty darn fine too. I would never in a gazillion years thought of using expanded PS for making a seascape but judging by how this is going - it's prefect for the job. The polystyrene beads really add a touch of realism and break up the uniformity of the surface
  22. Tamiya 1/350 IJN Yamato

    Excellent work!
  23. For 1:350 stuff I normally go to L'Arsenal. Their castings are detailed and crisp, as can be seen here and here. They can be ordered via the links above or, if you are not in a hurry for those parts, they usually have a large stock at SMW in November. I've used their bollards and fairleads, plus various other accessories, on my scratchbuilt LST.2 and they looked fine. All the vehicles and DUKW's are also L'Arsenal. Mike
  24. HMAS/m AE2, Scratchbuild

    Seachange 'Don't wanna live in the city... My friends tell me I'm changing... The smell of salty air, is what I'm chasing...' If you have no idea what I'm dribbling on about don't worry - it just means you are not an Australian of sufficient age to remember 1990's television. Anyway - here's how I made a couple of seachanges of my own. From polystyrene, to cold deep ocean, and then to tropical sea. Here's the starting point. Bare polystyrene foam with some milliput wake embedded into it. First job is to try to smooth out the bubbly polystyrene surface and to merge the milliput with the polystyrene. I'm going to try this stuff. It's a clear finishing resin in a liquid form normally used for smoothing and sealing the surface of polystyrene RC model aircraft. Unlike many chemicals it is completely compatible with polystyrene and won't damage its surface. . Pour it on, and brush it all over the entire sea. I cheated in this case and used an old hair dryer to help it along. I did this three times to get a nice thick shiny protective layer. This product worked beautifully, leaving a nice smooth shiny protective surface. Meanwhile, I had been mixing up some acrylic paint to match the colour of the ocean in a reference photo that I found on the web. Once the resin was properly dry I slapped this colour all over the entire base. I did it twice actually as I figure that the more layers of resin and paint between the polystyrene and the final surface - the better. At this stage I was very happy with the result. Here's what it looked like when I got it inside... The colour looks different under this light... It's OK but it looks very like a cold deep ocean and looks quite grey and will perhaps look a bit too subdued especially when the submarine is in it's final weathered, darker grey finish. I left it for 24 hours and thought about it. I came to the conclusion that this colour would be good for the Mid-Atlantic or the North Sea, but AE2 (and AE1 as well) spent most of their time in shallower, warmer waters - either on the East coast of Australia, in the tropics or in the Mediterranean. I also felt that I had not fully dealt with the knobbly polystyrene bubble texture that was still a bit too visible for my liking. So it was time for another seachange. I started by sanding back the entire surface in an effort to further smooth out the bubbly texture. This is where the resin was great because it made the surface strong enough to withstand some fairly coarse sanding treatment. Here's the result; many of the polystyrene bubbles knocked a bit flatter and the whole surface ready for some more paint. I mixed up some sea blue using the three colours below. You might be wondering why orange is there. The reason is that the blue is far too 'BLUE'. I do a bit of landscape painting and have learned that if you are dealing with an oversaturated colour the best way to lower it's intensity is to add small incremental amounts of the complimentary colour (in this case orange). Some people say 'add grey' but that tends to make the colours dull - in this case I'm adding a very bright orange so the resulting mix is still bright - it's just a bit less blue. Throw in some green too - almost all oceans have a greenish tinge even if it's not immediately obvious. The initial mix was still a bit too 'BLUE' so I deadened it down a bit with some more green and a few small dashes of orange as well. Ahhhh! That looks about right. This is more like what I had in mind! There's more work to go on this but I think it's back on track. Thanks for looking in folks and BTW if you haven't seen Seachange - do yourself (and the missus) a favour. Twenty years on and it's still a winner! Steve
  25. Many thanks for the valuable information and help! Yes, English - is not my native language. And I ask you to excuse me for spelling mistakes. This information was necessary for me for making a base (printed on cardstock) for the Sea Fury plane. This is closer to the aviation than to the fleet, in my opinion. Therefore, I wrote in this section of the forum. My previous works in 1/72, 1/48 and 1/35:
  26. have a look here http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?page=search&SS=bollards&PR=-1&TB=O&ACTION=Go!
  27. Trumpeter 1/350 HMS Hood

    This week I have been playing with resin. I made moulds of various length and gauge of bass and guitar strings for the various cable reels on the ship These first casts come complete with all the dirt and grit from the original strings, that got stuck in the mould As mentioned earlier I made the mistake of buying the North Star Models version (the parts in dark resin) - what was I thinking?
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