This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here:

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

  • Announcements

    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

Maritime Content

Showing topics in Historic Vessels to 1914, WWI to 1939, WWII, Cold War to 1990, Modern, Work in Progress - Maritime, Ready for Inspection - Maritime, General Maritime modelling chat, Kits, Aftermarket and Reference Material posted in the last 365 days.

This stream auto-updates   

  1. Today
  2. Looking good so far, Chewitt! Mike.
  3. They look the part and after some teething troubles found on the manufacturers sea trials, the trip across the Pacific and Atlantic probably gave them a good idea of their sea keeping ability. They are after all a BMT design that was built in South Korea and we should get the remaining three ships in the coming year. the Only FUBAR as per usual is that they have retired the old ships to provide the crew for the new ships but upon arrival they need another few months to install and test the specific British military kit down in Falmouth. The Interesting note is that they are hoping to build the MARS stores ships in the UK if they can so hopefully British Shipbuilding can step up to the mark and do the job
  4. They certainly do look good, but, as you say, hope they work as good as they look. Mind you, there's not much of a fleet to refuel these days.
  5. dunno if this is the right forum(a/c normally) but those new tide class look like a nice looking gash barge. Whether they work is a another question.
  6. Small update .Just rigging ,railings,couple of small guns to be fitted and crew of course.This as been a very easy backdating. Surprised Trumpeter have not done this.
  7. A bit more on the two models that Trumpeter produce of Valiant and Queen Elizabeth.I have plans for both and the only difference is the after superstructure and change to the painting instructions.I will have to change were the aircraft were launched midships,this was changed and is similarly to what HMS Renown had and paint scheme she had.I will have to add tubs for the 20mm oerlikon which I do have the plans for. Biggest problem is the complete lack of photo,s of both ships in 1945.Even my three ref books say this.The only colour pictures I have are stills from a film that was take link to film Plans of ships Queen Elizabeth Valiant And to finish off ,the complete details of what you get with the P.E. set. probably one of the best sets.
  8. Yes the Flyhawk are good and thanks for your kind comment you could use these rails rails with The PE that is already in the kit Beefy
  9. Yesterday
  10. Thanks beefy good to know! I was thinking that 1/700 was going to small. I've just got my phone back so I've been perusing eBay normally now and I've seen flyhawks 1:350 royal navy railing is this any good? Your Huron looks awesome, I hope mine will look just as good! Thanks Joss
  11. Now that's what I call taking an idea forward Kev
  12. Hello Kev, that sounds a good idea, I will give it a go. It will be some twhile before I need to attach it so will have plenty of time to practice. I think I may be able to get some very thin gold wire from Hobbycraft, I will check it out Saturday. Thanks for the help, Ray
  13. At a scale of 1/300 whatever it is going to be fine... How about taking some fine wire out of stripped down flex. (approx. 0.2mm) and then plaiting three wires. Planting the result around the stern. Kev
  14. Hello Martian, I hereby promise I will not lose sleep! I will be going down the epoxy route when the time comes and I will tape the ship down while the stuff sets (if I remember!). Another thing I forgot was something near the rear of the ship - I should have extended the skinning round after all for two reasons: There was a step where the skinning stopped and the deck, which my filler did not level out There should have been some depth to the hull under the deck vertically, whereas I had represented it as being sloped I tidied up the area then fitted some 20 thou plastic strip around the rear of the hull and fitted it with Tamiya Extra Thin cement, and it bonded really well considering it had only a 20 thou deck to stick to. I had already started the tidying up the filler from yesterday, thankfully the Milliput had set okay. I used Perfect Plastic Putty to start smoothing it out, and have also now started to build up the contours properly. Now a request for advice if I may: The plan shows what appears to be scroll-work on the transom. The detail is rather vague, but does anyone have any ideas on how to try and replicate this sort of thing? I am not too worried about accuracy, but just something close would do. You can also see what I mean about the depth to the hull under the stern decking. Thanks for looking, Ray
  15. Hi Joss I, am building one of the trumpeter tribal class at the minute Huron and they are very good value for money small amount of PE but no railings Take a look in the work in progress section and you can see what I have done I will also be doing Eskimo for more practice with these kits as I too am just really starting to get into 1/350 as I find some of the 1/700 to small for my old eyes Beefy
  16. Like mentioned above, the color scheme is excellent. Regards, Orion / The Netherlands.
  17. Hi Joss, 1/700 destroyers are pretty small, somewhere around 5" depending on the class. Few come with photoetch in the kit, apart from resin kits and the IBG mentioned above. But specific etch sets are readily available. The cruisers and battleships are a different matter! Although the part counts and amount of photoetch goes up accordingly... 1/350 destroyers would sound like a good place to start for you, not too small, lower parts count and a good few come with basic etch to bring out the details. Geoff
  18. thanks Geoff, Im not sure on scale. Im not really sure how big or small 1/350 or 1/700 are? Id say id like something big enough not to be dwarfed among 1:48 aircraft? I do like the tribal class and accuracy is not an issue at the moment as id just like to get stuck in building something. I shall have a look at the flyhawk models and may have to try a 1:350 and a 1:700. Will photoetch be necessary in 1:700 or will what comes with the kit be sufficent? Thanks again joss
  19. Last week
  20. Hi Joss, what scale are you looking at? 1/350 or 1/700? If you're thinking 1/350 I'd look at one of the Trumpeter Tribal class although they're not 100% accurate. If you're looking at 1/700 then you're really spoilt for choice! The Flyhawk models are beautiful and come with photoetch. I've the Aurora and Naiad in the stash, can't wait to start them! There's the IBG hunt class which build up easily and again come with photoetch or you have the good old Tamiya and Trumpeter range. Really just depends on your taste and budget! Have a butcher's around here and see what people are building and see what catches your eye. Good hunting! Geoff
  21. Need to aquire an old relay. Really good PE work!
  22. This is looking very smart with the brass in place! Martian
  23. Looking good! I think that the hull should glue down with some epoxy so I wouldn't lose too much sleep over the missing bolts. Martian
  24. Small up date Pom Pom built up why did I think of doing it that way Got to admit it was hard work very delicate but it does look better Also started to add the mast Halyards using thin copper wire from a old relay And painted the name plate up Beefy
  25. Hi Rob I,am considering the Fairmile D the one with the shark teeth on the bow as per your book referance photo but they are all great kits already have the BPC 466MTB Hope to pick up some tips and info from your build Beefy
  26. Hi Bernd. Glad you are well and I will keep checking back for any more progress. Kind regards, Stix
  27. Hi Stix i am well but my modelling has suffered a major blockade, for almost four weeks i didn t made nothing. Hopefully more soon. Cheers Bernd
  28. Hi Paul, I tried the centreline first method with Ophir, but that one bowed too - maybe I am using too thin a base plate. I agree with the bowing being hidden, that will also come about as when I fitted the second skinning, it went below the current level of the bottom of the hull, so disguises it even more. Thanks for the tip though Hello Morty, thanks for that about Isopon 38, I have had good results with that too in the past (tried once only) but I have run out at the mo, and I am on a bit of a budget. Murdo, I do get a good idea every now and again! However, I also have a tendency to create 'oops' moments too - for example: Well, my planning idea soon went out of the window!!! I fitted the deck after suitable fettling, and it fitted like a dream, except for the starboard bow area where there was a bit of a gap. Later on, at about 2.30am I was having difficulty sleeping and I almost sat bolt upright with the thought 'I did not fit the bolt nuts into the hull to attach the ship to the baseplate or even drill the holes'! Doh... I have trimmed down the surplus plastic from above the deck, but it still needs a bit more to make it really neat, the starboard bow gap has been filled with Perfect Plastic Putty, and a vertical rod of 30 thou square plastic is now attached to the bow, again oversized as it looks like it goes all the way to the top of the bow 'bulwarks'. I have also done the first lot of Milliput to the aft area, this is a bit rough at the moment (I have said that before methinks) but last time I was able to neaten it up with a couple of layers of PPP. I know Kev (Longshanks) suggested once before about using wood for this area, but I am hesitant as I am not sure how to blend it in to the plastic and with what. I will try on another project though. I have tested the hull, and she does NOT become a rudder sitter despite the weight of filler. I just have to wait now for it to set, and hope I mixed it properly. Thanks for looking, Ray
  1. Load more activity